For watch enthusiasts and collectors, the Rolex Submariner needs little introduction. A cornerstone of horological history, this iconic diving watch has graced wrists for generations, evolving from a functional tool to a symbol of adventure and prestige. Within the vast Submariner lineage, however, certain variations stand out, commanding exceptional admiration and value. Among these coveted pieces, the Red Face Submariner, often referred to as the "Red Submariner" or "Red Sub," holds a particularly special place. This article delves deep into the fascinating world of the Red Face Submariner, exploring its history, rarity, distinguishing features, investment potential, and everything you need to know about this horological legend.

What Exactly is a "Red Face Submariner"? Defining the Legend

The term "Red Face Submariner" isn't an official Rolex designation. Instead, it's a collector's nickname for specific vintage Rolex Submariner models where the word "Submariner" is printed in vibrant red on the dial. This seemingly small detail marks a significant era in Submariner history and instantly elevates these watches to a realm of rarity and desirability. Primarily, the "Red Face Submariner" refers to the Rolex Submariner reference 1680, produced from approximately 1969 to the late 1970s. While the reference 1680 was produced for a longer period, the "Red Sub" era was relatively short-lived, adding to its exclusivity.

To understand the significance of the red text, it's crucial to appreciate the context of the Submariner's evolution. Early Submariners were purely tool watches, emphasizing functionality and legibility. As the model matured, Rolex subtly introduced elements of luxury and refinement. The red "Submariner" text was a design choice that added a touch of visual flair while still maintaining the watch's robust character. It was a transitional period, bridging the gap between the purely functional tool watches of the past and the more luxurious sports watches Rolex would become known for.

It's important to distinguish the "Red Face Submariner" from other Rolex watches with red elements. While Rolex has used red accents in other models (like the GMT-Master II "Coke" bezel or the Sea-Dweller "Single Red" and "Double Red"), the term "Red Face Submariner" almost exclusively refers to the red-lettered Submariner ref. 1680.

Key Takeaway: The "Red Face Submariner" is a nickname for the vintage Rolex Submariner reference 1680, characterized by the word "Submariner" printed in red on the dial. This feature marks a specific and sought-after era in Submariner history.

A Journey Through Time: The History and Evolution of the Red Submariner

The Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 was a landmark model, introducing the date complication to the Submariner line for the first time. Prior Submariners, including the iconic ref. 5513 and ref. 5512, were time-only watches. The ref. 1680 marked a shift towards greater everyday practicality, while still retaining the core diving capabilities that defined the Submariner.

Production of the ref. 1680 began around 1969, and initially, these watches featured the "Submariner" text in red. Rolex, known for its continuous refinement and subtle variations, produced the "Red Submariner" for a relatively short period, likely ending in the late 1970s. After this period, the "Submariner" text on the ref. 1680 transitioned to white, becoming the standard for subsequent models. This transition is a primary reason why the "Red Face Submariner" became a collector's item – its limited production window and distinct visual characteristic set it apart.

During its production run, the "Red Submariner" itself underwent minor dial variations, often referred to as "Marks" or "Mk." These variations, while subtle, are meticulously studied by collectors and can influence the value and desirability of a particular watch. Common dial variations include Mk I, Mk II, Mk III, and Mk IV. These marks are differentiated by minute details like the font style, spacing of the text, and the shape of the "f" in "ft" on the depth rating. Understanding these dial variations requires in-depth knowledge and often the assistance of experienced collectors or reputable vintage watch dealers.

The movement powering the ref. 1680, both red and white text versions, was the Rolex caliber 1575. This robust and reliable movement was a workhorse for Rolex, known for its accuracy and durability. It featured a date function and contributed to the overall reputation of the Submariner as a dependable and high-performing timepiece.

Key Takeaway: The Red Face Submariner ref. 1680 was produced for a limited period in the late 1960s and 1970s. It introduced the date function to the Submariner and underwent subtle dial variations ("Marks") during its production, further enhancing its collectibility.

Why the Red Face Submariner is So Highly Sought After: Rarity, Aesthetics, and Heritage

The allure of the Red Face Submariner stems from a combination of factors that resonate deeply with watch collectors and enthusiasts:

• Rarity: The relatively short production period of the "Red Sub" compared to the overall lifespan of the ref. 1680 makes it inherently rarer than its white-text counterpart. Within the "Red Sub" production, certain dial variations (Marks) are even rarer, further amplifying their desirability.
• Visual Distinction: The red "Submariner" text provides a striking visual contrast against the black dial, creating a unique and eye-catching aesthetic. This pop of color sets the "Red Sub" apart from later, more monochromatic Submariner models. It's a subtle yet impactful design element that collectors appreciate.
• Historical Significance: The ref. 1680, in general, represents a pivotal moment in Submariner history with the introduction of the date function. The "Red Sub" era captures the early, more visually distinctive phase of this important reference, making it a tangible piece of horological evolution.
• Vintage Appeal: Vintage Rolex watches, in general, have experienced a surge in popularity and value. The "Red Face Submariner," as a vintage piece with a unique characteristic, perfectly embodies the charm and collectibility of vintage watches. The patina that develops on the tritium lume plots and hands over decades adds to the watch's character and vintage charm.
• Investment Potential: Due to its rarity and desirability, the Red Face Submariner has become a highly sought-after investment piece. Prices for well-preserved examples have consistently risen over the years, making it not only a beautiful watch to own but also a potentially sound financial asset.

Key Takeaway: The Red Face Submariner's desirability is driven by its rarity, distinct red text, historical significance, vintage appeal, and strong investment potential, making it a true grail watch for many collectors.

Identifying a Genuine Red Face Submariner: Authentication and Key Features

Given the high value and collectibility of the Red Face Submariner, authentication is paramount. The vintage Rolex market is unfortunately susceptible to fakes and frankenwatches (watches assembled from parts of different watches). Therefore, meticulous examination and purchasing from reputable sources are crucial.

Here are key features to look for when identifying a genuine Red Face Submariner:

• Reference Number: Verify that the watch is indeed a ref. 1680. This is engraved between the lugs at the 12 o'clock position.
• Serial Number: Check the serial number, engraved between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position, and cross-reference it with production date charts to ensure it falls within the "Red Sub" production period (roughly 1969-late 1970s).
• Dial Markings: Carefully examine the dial printing, especially the red "Submariner" text. Compare it to known examples of genuine dials, paying attention to font style, spacing, and the specific "Mark" variation (Mk I, Mk II, etc.). Be aware of potential redials (dials that have been repainted), which significantly diminish value.
• Lume Plots: Original Red Face Submariners would have tritium lume. Under UV light, tritium lume reacts differently than modern Luminova or Super-LumiNova. The patina and color of the lume should also be consistent with age.
• Caseback: The caseback should be stamped with "1680" inside.
• Movement: While less easily accessible, the movement should be the Rolex caliber 1575. A reputable watchmaker can verify this.
• Bezel Insert: The bezel insert should be period-correct, typically a "long 5" fat font insert for earlier examples.
• Crystal: The crystal should be a domed acrylic crystal, typical of vintage Submariners.

Expert Advice: Due to the complexities of vintage watch authentication, it is highly recommended to seek the expertise of a reputable vintage Rolex dealer or authenticator before purchasing a Red Face Submariner. They can provide professional inspection and documentation to ensure authenticity.

Key Takeaway: Authenticating a Red Face Submariner requires careful examination of reference and serial numbers, dial markings, lume, caseback, movement, and other features. Expert authentication is highly recommended.

Investing in a Red Face Submariner: Market Trends and Considerations

The Red Face Submariner is not just a beautiful vintage watch; it's also a significant investment piece. The market for vintage Rolex watches, particularly sports models like the Submariner, has been robust and generally upward trending over the long term. However, like any investment, it's essential to understand the market dynamics and potential risks.

Market Trends: Prices for Red Face Submariners have steadily increased over the past decades. Demand consistently outstrips supply, driving prices upwards. Condition plays a crucial role in valuation. Pristine, unpolished examples with original parts and provenance command premiums. Even watches in good, honest condition are highly valuable.

Factors Influencing Value:

• Condition: Condition is paramount. Original, unpolished cases, dials in excellent condition, and original parts significantly increase value.
• Dial Mark: Certain dial "Marks" (Mk I, Mk II, etc.) can be more desirable than others, although condition often outweighs dial variation in overall value.
• Completeness: Watches with original boxes, papers (warranty certificate), and accessories are more valuable to collectors.
• Provenance: A known history or provenance can add significant value, especially if linked to notable individuals or events.
• Market Sentiment: Overall market trends for vintage Rolex and luxury watches influence Red Face Submariner values.

Investment Considerations:

• Due Diligence: Thorough research and authentication are essential before investing. Buy from reputable sources and consider professional authentication.
• Long-Term Perspective: Vintage watch investments are typically long-term. While short-term fluctuations can occur, the long-term trend for desirable vintage Rolex is generally positive.
• Storage and Insurance: Proper storage and insurance are necessary to protect your investment.
• Market Fluctuations: Be aware that the vintage watch market can experience fluctuations. Diversification is always a prudent investment strategy.

Key Takeaway: Investing in a Red Face Submariner can be rewarding, but requires due diligence, a long-term perspective, and understanding of market dynamics. Condition, dial variations, completeness, and provenance are key factors influencing value.

Maintaining and Caring for Your Red Face Submariner: Preserving a Legacy

Owning a Red Face Submariner is not just about investment; it's about preserving a piece of horological history. Proper maintenance and care are crucial to ensure its longevity and value.

Regular Servicing: Vintage watches, even robust ones like the Submariner, require regular servicing by a qualified watchmaker experienced with vintage Rolex. Servicing intervals typically range from 5-7 years, depending on usage. Regular servicing ensures the movement remains clean, lubricated, and functioning optimally.

Gentle Cleaning: Clean your Red Face Submariner gently with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. For the bracelet, you can use mild soapy water and a soft brush, ensuring thorough rinsing and drying.

Water Resistance: While originally designed for diving, vintage Submariners' water resistance degrades over time. It's best to assume a vintage Red Face Submariner is not water-resistant unless it has been recently pressure-tested by a qualified watchmaker. Avoid exposing it to water unless you are certain of its water resistance.

Storage: Store your Red Face Submariner in a safe, dry place, away from extreme temperatures, humidity, and strong magnetic fields. A watch box or safe is ideal.

Handling with Care: Treat your vintage watch with care. Avoid dropping it or subjecting it to hard knocks. While robust, vintage watches are more delicate than modern watches.

Professional Inspection: Periodically have your Red Face Submariner inspected by a qualified watchmaker to identify any potential issues early on.

Key Takeaway: Maintaining a Red Face Submariner involves regular servicing, gentle cleaning, cautious water exposure, proper storage, and handling with care to preserve its condition and value.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Red Face Submariner

Frequently Asked Questions

• Is the "Red Face Submariner" an official Rolex term?

  No, "Red Face Submariner" or "Red Submariner" is a collector's nickname, not an official Rolex designation. It refers to the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 with red "Submariner" text on the dial.

• What is the reference number for the Red Face Submariner?

  The reference number is 1680.

• How can I tell if a Red Face Submariner is genuine?

  Authentication requires careful examination of reference and serial numbers, dial markings, lume, caseback, movement, and other features. Expert authentication by a reputable vintage Rolex dealer is highly recommended.

• Are all Rolex Submariner 1680 models "Red Face Submariners"?

  No, only the early production ref. 1680 models featured the red "Submariner" text. Later models transitioned to white text.

• What are the different dial variations ("Marks") of the Red Face Submariner?

  Common dial variations include Mk I, Mk II, Mk III, and Mk IV, differentiated by subtle details in the dial printing. These variations are for advanced collectors and require detailed knowledge.

• Is the Red Face Submariner a good investment?

  Yes, Red Face Submariners have historically been strong investment pieces, with prices generally appreciating over time. However, like any investment, due diligence and understanding market dynamics are crucial.

• Where can I buy a Red Face Submariner?

  Purchase from reputable vintage watch dealers, auction houses specializing in watches, or trusted private sellers with a proven track record. Always prioritize authentication.

• How much is a Red Face Submariner worth?

  Value varies greatly depending on condition, dial variation, completeness (box and papers), and market conditions. Prices can range from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of dollars, and even higher for exceptional examples.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Red Face Submariner

The Red Face Submariner is more than just a vintage watch; it's a symbol of Rolex's enduring legacy of innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless design. Its rarity, visual appeal, and historical significance have cemented its status as a highly coveted collector's item and a true icon in the world of horology. Whether you are a seasoned collector, a passionate watch enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates the finer things in life, the Red Face Submariner offers a compelling blend of history, beauty, and investment potential. Owning a Red Face Submariner is owning a piece of watchmaking history, a tangible link to the golden era of sports watches, and a legacy that continues to captivate and inspire generations.

Authoritative References and Sources:

1. Rolex Official Website: https://www.rolex.com
2. "Vintage Rolex Submariners: The Complete Guide" by J.P. Morgan (Hypothetical Book Title for Example)
3. Online Vintage Watch Forums and Communities (e.g., Rolex Forums, WatchUSeek)
4. Reputable Vintage Watch Dealer Websites (e.g., Bob's Watches, Hodinkee Shop - for informational purposes, not direct endorsement)
5. Auction House Archives (e.g., Christie's, Sotheby's watch auction catalogs)