For generations, the Rolex Submariner has reigned supreme as the quintessential dive watch, a symbol of adventure, precision, and enduring style. While the all-stainless steel models are iconic in their own right, the two tone Rolex Submariner, often referred to as the "Rolesor" Submariner by Rolex, elevates this legendary timepiece to a new echelon of luxury and versatility. This article delves deep into the captivating world of the steel and gold Submariner Rolex, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it remains a coveted object for watch enthusiasts and discerning individuals worldwide.
A Legacy Forged in Steel and Gold: The History of the Rolesor Submariner
Rolex's pioneering spirit extends beyond just functionality; they were also masters of aesthetics. The introduction of "Rolesor," Rolex's term for combining gold and steel, marked a significant step in blending robustness with refined elegance. While Rolex has utilized two-tone combinations across various models, the two tone Rolex Submariner quickly became a standout, seamlessly marrying the tool-watch DNA of the Submariner with the luxurious warmth of gold.
The exact origins of the two-tone Submariner are somewhat debated, but its prominence solidified in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Early examples showcased a more understated elegance, often featuring yellow gold accents that complemented the robust stainless steel case and bracelet. Over the decades, the design evolved, with various iterations incorporating different shades of gold, bezel materials, and dial configurations. However, the core essence of the Rolesor Submariner – the harmonious blend of strength and sophistication – remained constant.
The introduction of specific reference numbers like the Rolex Submariner 126613LN (the current black ceramic bezel and black dial model) further cemented the two-tone Submariner's place in the modern Rolex lineup. These contemporary models benefit from Rolex's cutting-edge technology, including improved movements, enhanced materials like Cerachrom bezels, and refined bracelet designs, while still retaining the classic aesthetic that makes the bi-metal Submariner so desirable.
Design and Features: A Symphony of Contrasts
The beauty of the two tone Rolex Submariner lies in its masterful juxtaposition of materials. The cool, resilient stainless steel provides the foundation of the watch, ensuring its durability and tool-watch heritage are upheld. In contrast, the warm, lustrous gold, typically 18k yellow or Everose (Rolex's proprietary rose gold), injects a dose of opulence and visual interest. This interplay creates a timepiece that is both sporty and dressy, capable of transitioning seamlessly from a dive expedition to a formal occasion.
Key Design Elements of the Rolesor Submariner:
- Rolesor Construction: The signature feature, combining Oystersteel (904L stainless steel) and 18k gold. Gold is typically used on the bezel, crown, center links of the bracelet, and hands and hour markers on the dial.
- Oyster Case: The robust Oyster case, synonymous with Rolex's waterproof and pressure-resistant capabilities, ensuring water resistance to 300 meters (1000 feet).
- Cerachrom Bezel: Modern two tone Submariners feature a scratch-resistant and fade-proof Cerachrom ceramic bezel, often in black, blue, or brown, with gold graduations. Older models used aluminum bezels.
- Mercedes Hands and Luminous Markers: Iconic Rolex design elements ensuring excellent legibility in all conditions, crucial for a dive watch.
- Oyster Bracelet: The robust and comfortable Oyster bracelet, with its three-piece links, is a hallmark of Rolex sport watches. In Rolesor models, the center links are crafted from solid gold.
- Date Function (often with Cyclops Lens): Many two tone Submariner models feature a date complication at 3 o'clock, magnified by Rolex's signature Cyclops lens for enhanced readability.
- Rolex Caliber Movement: Powered by Rolex's in-house, chronometer-certified movements, renowned for their precision, reliability, and longevity. Modern models often feature the Caliber 3235, offering improved performance and a 70-hour power reserve.
Why Choose a Two Tone Submariner? The Appeal and Versatility
The decision to opt for a two tone Rolex Submariner is a personal one, but several compelling reasons contribute to its enduring popularity:
- Versatility: The primary appeal is its exceptional versatility. It bridges the gap between a purely sporty watch and a dress watch. It’s equally at home under a cuff or paired with casual attire, making it a truly adaptable timepiece for various lifestyles and occasions.
- Elevated Style: The addition of gold undeniably elevates the aesthetic. It adds a touch of luxury and sophistication that stainless steel models, while iconic, may lack. The gold Submariner elements catch the light and draw attention, projecting an image of success and discerning taste.
- Investment Potential: Like many Rolex watches, especially Submariners, the two tone Rolex Submariner holds its value remarkably well and can even appreciate over time, particularly well-maintained vintage models or sought-after modern references. Considering a Rolex Submariner as an investment watch is a common and often sound strategy.
- Status Symbol: Rolex, in general, is a recognized symbol of achievement and status. The Rolesor Submariner, with its gold accents, subtly amplifies this status without being overtly ostentatious, striking a balance between understated luxury and recognizable prestige.
- Distinctiveness: While still a Submariner, the two-tone version stands out slightly from the more ubiquitous all-steel models. It offers a degree of individuality for those who appreciate the Submariner design but seek a touch more flair.
Navigating the Two Tone Submariner Landscape: Models and References
The two tone Rolex Submariner family encompasses several noteworthy models and references throughout its history. Understanding these variations can help you pinpoint the perfect Rolesor Submariner for your preferences:
- Current Production:
- Rolex Submariner 126613LN (Black Dial & Bezel): The quintessential modern two tone Submariner, featuring a black Cerachrom bezel, black dial, and yellow gold accents.
- Rolex Submariner 126613LB (Blue Dial & Bezel): A vibrant option with a blue Cerachrom bezel and blue dial, also accented with yellow gold.
- Rolex Submariner Date 126618LB (Blue Dial & Bezel, Yellow Gold): While technically not "two-tone" in the Rolesor sense (as it's full yellow gold), it’s often considered within the broader category of luxurious Submariners and worth mentioning for comparison.
- Notable Discontinued References:
- Rolex Submariner 16613 (Pre-Ceramic Bezel): A popular reference from the 1990s and 2000s, featuring an aluminum bezel and tritium or Luminova luminous material. Available in black and blue dial variations.
- Rolex Submariner 16803 (Vintage): An earlier two-tone reference, highly sought after by collectors, representing a significant step in the evolution of the Rolesor Submariner.
When considering a specific reference, factors like bezel material (Cerachrom vs. aluminum), dial color, bracelet style, and movement generation should be taken into account to align with your personal taste and collecting goals.
Buying a Two Tone Rolex Submariner: Considerations and Tips
Purchasing a two tone Rolex Submariner, whether new or pre-owned, requires careful consideration. Here are some essential tips:
- Authorized Dealer (AD) vs. Grey Market: New Rolex watches are ideally purchased from Authorized Dealers. However, waitlists can be long. The grey market offers immediate availability but often at a premium price. Weigh the pros and cons carefully.
- Authentication: Especially for pre-owned watches, thorough authentication is crucial. Purchase from reputable dealers and seek professional authentication if needed. Examine hallmarks, serial numbers, and movement details.
- Condition: Assess the watch's condition meticulously. Scratches, dings, bracelet stretch, and service history all impact value. Determine your tolerance for wear and tear.
- Box and Papers: Original box and papers (warranty card, manuals) significantly enhance the value and authenticity of a Rolex, especially for collectors.
- Market Research: Understand current market prices for the specific reference you are interested in. Online resources, auction results, and reputable dealers can provide valuable insights.
- Consider Your Budget: Luxury dive watches like the two tone Rolex Submariner represent a significant investment. Set a realistic budget and stick to it.
Caring for Your Rolesor Submariner: Maintenance and Longevity
Proper care ensures your two tone Rolex Submariner remains a treasured possession for generations. Here are some essential maintenance tips:
- Regular Cleaning: Gently clean your watch with a soft cloth and mild soapy water. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends regular servicing by authorized service centers every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Servicing ensures optimal performance and longevity of the movement.
- Avoid Extreme Conditions: While robust, avoid exposing your watch to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, or harsh impacts.
- Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a watch box or pouch to protect it from dust and scratches.
- Bracelet Care: Clean the bracelet regularly to remove dirt and grime that can accumulate between links. Gold is softer than steel, so be mindful of potential scratches on the gold parts.
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Rolesor Submariner
The two tone Rolex Submariner is more than just a watch; it's a statement. It embodies a harmonious blend of rugged capability and refined elegance, making it a truly versatile and desirable timepiece. Whether you are drawn to its rich history, its iconic design, its investment potential, or simply its undeniable style, the Rolesor Submariner continues to captivate and inspire. It stands as a testament to Rolex's mastery of watchmaking, a symbol of enduring quality and timeless appeal in the world of luxury watches. For those seeking a timepiece that seamlessly blends sport and sophistication, the two tone Rolex Submariner remains an unparalleled choice.
FAQ: Common Questions About the Two Tone Rolex Submariner
Q: What does "Rolesor" mean?
A: "Rolesor" is Rolex's proprietary term for combining two metals in a watch, specifically gold and steel. It signifies the harmonious blend of robustness and luxury.
Q: Is the two tone Submariner a good investment?
A: Yes, generally speaking, Rolex Submariners, including two-tone models, are considered strong investment pieces in the watch world. Their value tends to hold well and can appreciate over time, especially for well-maintained examples and certain references. However, watch investments can fluctuate, so research and due diligence are always recommended.
Q: What is the difference between the 126613LN and 126613LB?
A: The Rolex Submariner 126613LN features a black Cerachrom bezel and black dial, while the 126613LB has a blue Cerachrom bezel and blue dial. Both are otherwise identical in terms of features and construction.
Q: Is the gold on a two tone Submariner solid gold or gold-plated?
A: The gold used in a two tone Rolex Submariner is always solid 18k gold, never gold-plated. Rolex uses only precious metals in its watches.
Q: Can I wear a two tone Submariner for swimming or diving?
A: Yes, the two tone Rolex Submariner retains the same 300-meter water resistance as the all-steel models. It is designed to be a functional dive watch and is suitable for swimming and recreational diving.
Q: How often should I service my two tone Rolex Submariner?
A: Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years, depending on usage and environmental factors. Regular servicing ensures the movement remains in optimal condition and prolongs the life of your timepiece.
