Understanding the Allure of Two-Tone: A Balancing Act

Before diving specifically into the Submariner Two-Tone, it's crucial to understand the inherent appeal of two-tone watches in general. The combination of stainless steel and gold is more than just an aesthetic choice; it represents a carefully considered balance:

• Versatility: Two-tone watches bridge the gap between purely sporty steel watches and overtly formal full-gold timepieces. They are versatile enough to be worn in a variety of settings, from casual everyday wear to more dressed-up occasions.
• Sophistication: The addition of gold elevates the overall look, injecting a touch of luxury and refinement without being ostentatious. It's a subtle yet impactful statement of style.
• Durability and Value: Stainless steel provides the necessary robustness and scratch resistance for daily wear, while gold adds inherent value and prestige. This combination offers both practicality and long-term investment potential.
• Visual Interest: The contrasting colors of steel and gold create visual depth and interest on the wrist. This interplay of tones can be more captivating than a monochromatic design.

The Submariner Two-Tone perfectly embodies these qualities, making it a compelling option for those seeking a watch that offers both performance and panache.

A Legacy Forged in the Depths: The Submariner Heritage

To truly appreciate the Submariner Two-Tone, it's essential to understand the legendary lineage of the Rolex Submariner itself. Introduced in 1953, the Submariner was one of the first wristwatches designed specifically for divers. Its groundbreaking features included:

• Water Resistance: Initially rated to 100 meters, the Submariner's water resistance has consistently improved over the decades.
• Rotating Bezel: A unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute graduations allows divers to track elapsed time underwater, a critical safety feature.
• Luminous Markers and Hands: Ensuring legibility in low-light conditions, essential for underwater exploration.
• Robust Construction: Built to withstand the rigors of underwater environments, the Submariner is renowned for its durability and reliability.

Over the years, the Submariner has evolved while retaining its core DNA. It has become the benchmark for dive watches, adopted by professionals and admired by enthusiasts worldwide. The introduction of the Submariner Two-Tone models expanded its appeal, bringing a touch of luxury to this tool watch icon.

The Birth of Rolesor: Rolex's Two-Tone Mastery

Rolex coined the term "Rolesor" to describe the harmonious combination of gold and steel in their watches. This isn't simply plating; Rolex utilizes solid gold, meticulously crafted and integrated with stainless steel components. The Submariner Two-Tone, therefore, is not just a steel watch with gold accents. It’s a carefully engineered piece where these two precious materials work in tandem.

Rolex uses different types of Rolesor, most notably:

• Yellow Rolesor: Combining 18k yellow gold with Oystersteel. This is the classic and most recognizable two-tone combination, exuding warmth and a vintage-inspired charm.
• Everose Rolesor: Combining 18k Everose gold (Rolex's proprietary pink gold alloy) with Oystersteel. Everose offers a more contemporary and subtle touch of luxury, with a distinct rosy hue that is exceptionally durable and resistant to fading.

In the Submariner Two-Tone, Rolesor typically manifests in the following components:

• Bezel: Often, the bezel is crafted from solid gold, providing a striking contrast against the steel case and dial.
• Crown and Crown Guards: Gold elements are frequently used for the winding crown and protective crown guards, adding visual highlights and reinforcing the luxurious feel.
• Center Links of the Bracelet: The most prominent use of gold in a two-tone Submariner is in the center links of the Oyster bracelet. This creates a continuous band of gold running down the wrist, further enhancing the watch's sophisticated aesthetic.

Design and Features: Decoding the Submariner Two-Tone

The Submariner Two-Tone retains all the core functionalities and design elements that make the Submariner legendary, while incorporating the distinctive Rolesor aesthetic. Key features include:

• Oyster Case: Crafted from robust Oystersteel, the case provides exceptional water resistance (currently 300 meters) and protection for the movement.
• Unidirectional Rotating Bezel with Ceramic Insert (Cerachrom): Modern Submariner Two-Tone models feature a Cerachrom bezel insert, Rolex's proprietary ceramic material. Cerachrom is virtually scratchproof, fade-resistant, and highly durable, ensuring the bezel remains pristine for years to come. The numerals and graduations are typically filled with gold or platinum, depending on the Rolesor type.
• Scratch-Resistant Sapphire Crystal: Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal, known for its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance. Many models also feature a Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o'clock for enhanced readability.
• Chromalight Display: Rolex's Chromalight luminous material on the hands and hour markers provides long-lasting blue luminescence for exceptional legibility in dark conditions.
• Oyster Bracelet: The iconic Oyster bracelet, known for its robustness and comfort, is a hallmark of Rolex watches. In the Submariner Two-Tone, the bracelet features solid Oystersteel outer links and solid gold center links, creating a visually striking and comfortable bracelet.
• Rolex Caliber Movement: Powering the Submariner Two-Tone is a high-precision Rolex caliber movement, known for its accuracy, reliability, and longevity. These movements are often chronometer-certified by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), guaranteeing exceptional timekeeping performance. Current models typically feature the Caliber 3235, a cutting-edge movement with a Chronergy escapement and approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

Why Choose a Submariner Two-Tone? Weighing the Pros and Cons

The Submariner Two-Tone is a significant investment, and it's important to consider whether it aligns with your personal style and needs. Here's a balanced look at the pros and cons:

Pros:

• Elevated Style: The Rolesor combination elevates the Submariner's aesthetic, making it more versatile and suitable for a wider range of occasions.
• Investment Potential: Rolex watches, especially Submariners, are known for holding their value and often appreciating over time. The addition of gold further enhances the investment aspect.
• Durability and Reliability: Inherits the legendary robustness and reliability of the Submariner line.
• Versatility: Bridges the gap between sporty and dressy, making it a great "one watch collection" option for some.
• Status and Recognition: A Rolex Submariner is instantly recognizable and carries significant prestige. The two-tone version adds an extra layer of distinction.

Cons:

• Higher Price Point: Submariner Two-Tone models are significantly more expensive than their stainless steel counterparts due to the use of gold.
• Less Understated: While versatile, the two-tone design is inherently more noticeable than a purely steel watch, which may not appeal to those seeking a truly low-profile timepiece.
• Gold is Softer than Steel: While Rolex uses durable gold alloys, gold is inherently softer than steel and can be more prone to scratches and dents, particularly on polished surfaces.
• Maintenance: Like any luxury watch, the Submariner Two-Tone requires regular servicing to maintain its performance and appearance.

Ultimately, the decision to choose a Submariner Two-Tone is a personal one. It’s a compelling choice for those who appreciate the Submariner's heritage and performance but desire a touch of luxury and versatility in their timepiece.

Popular Submariner Two-Tone Models and Variations

Rolex has offered various Submariner Two-Tone models throughout its history. Some notable examples include:

• Submariner 16613 (Yellow Gold): A classic reference, produced for many years, featuring a yellow gold bezel and center links. Often considered a quintessential two-tone Submariner.
• Submariner 116613LN (Yellow Gold, Ceramic Bezel): Introduced the Cerachrom ceramic bezel, enhancing scratch resistance and durability.
• Submariner 116613LB (Yellow Gold, Blue Ceramic Bezel): Known as the "Bluesy," featuring a striking blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel, a highly sought-after variation.
• Submariner 126613LN (Yellow Gold, Current Model): The latest generation, featuring the Caliber 3235 movement and subtle design refinements.
• Submariner 126613LB (Yellow Gold, Current "Bluesy" Model): The updated "Bluesy" with the latest movement and subtle enhancements.
• Submariner 126618LN (Yellow Gold, Full Gold Bezel): While technically not "two-tone" in the Rolesor sense, models with full yellow gold bezels are sometimes considered within the broader category of luxurious Submariners and offer a different aesthetic.
• Everose Rolesor Models: Rolex has also released Submariner Two-Tone models in Everose Rolesor, offering a pink gold option for a more contemporary and less common look.

When considering a Submariner Two-Tone, researching specific references and their features is crucial to finding the model that best suits your preferences and budget.

Caring for Your Submariner Two-Tone: Maintaining its Luster

To ensure your Submariner Two-Tone remains in excellent condition and retains its value, proper care and maintenance are essential:

• Regular Cleaning: Gently clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and lukewarm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a soft, lint-free cloth. This helps remove dirt, sweat, and grime.
• Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends professional servicing every 5-10 years, depending on usage. This ensures the movement is properly lubricated and functioning optimally, and also allows for professional cleaning and polishing.
• Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Protect your watch from harsh chemicals, solvents, and extreme temperatures.
• Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe place, preferably in its original box or a watch case, to protect it from dust and scratches.
• Polishing (Use Sparingly): While polishing can restore the shine of gold and steel, excessive polishing can wear down the metal over time. Professional polishing during servicing is generally recommended, rather than frequent at-home polishing.

By following these care tips, you can ensure your Submariner Two-Tone remains a treasured timepiece for generations to come.

Buying a Submariner Two-Tone: Navigating the Market

Purchasing a Submariner Two-Tone can be an exciting but potentially complex process, particularly given the high demand and limited availability of Rolex watches. Here are some key considerations:

• Authorized Dealers (ADs): Purchasing from an Authorized Rolex Dealer is the safest way to ensure authenticity and receive the manufacturer's warranty. However, waitlists for popular models like the Submariner Two-Tone can be long.
• Reputable Grey Market Dealers: Grey market dealers sell unworn watches sourced from authorized dealers but are not directly affiliated with Rolex. They can offer quicker availability but often at a premium above retail price. Due diligence is crucial when buying from grey market dealers to ensure authenticity and reputation.
• Pre-Owned Market: The pre-owned market offers a wide range of Submariner Two-Tone models, often at prices that can be lower than retail or grey market prices. However, authenticity verification and condition assessment are paramount when buying pre-owned. Consider purchasing from reputable platforms or dealers specializing in pre-owned luxury watches.
• Budget: Determine your budget beforehand. Submariner Two-Tone prices vary based on model, condition, and market demand. Research current market prices to set realistic expectations.
• Authenticity Verification: Regardless of where you purchase, always verify the watch's authenticity. If buying pre-owned, consider having it authenticated by a Rolex service center or a reputable watch authenticator. Check for hallmarks, serial numbers, and movement details.

Patience and thorough research are key when buying a Submariner Two-Tone. Whether you choose to wait for an AD allocation, explore the grey market, or consider the pre-owned market, prioritize authenticity and purchase from trusted sources.

Alternatives to the Submariner Two-Tone

While the Submariner Two-Tone is iconic, there are alternatives that offer similar aesthetics or functionalities, depending on your priorities and budget:

• Rolex Sea-Dweller Two-Tone: A more robust dive watch from Rolex, offering greater water resistance and a slightly larger size, also available in two-tone Rolesor.
• Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Two-Tone: A strong competitor to the Submariner, the Seamaster Diver 300M also offers two-tone models with ceramic bezels and co-axial movements, often at a more accessible price point.
• Tudor Black Bay S&G (Steel & Gold): Tudor, Rolex's sister brand, offers the Black Bay S&G, a vintage-inspired dive watch with a two-tone steel and gold aesthetic, providing a more affordable entry point into the two-tone luxury dive watch category.
• Breitling Superocean Heritage Two-Tone: Breitling's Superocean Heritage line features retro-styled dive watches, some available in two-tone combinations, offering a different design perspective.
• Other Luxury Brands Two-Tone Dive Watches: Brands like Panerai, IWC, and others offer two-tone dive watches in various styles and price ranges.

Exploring alternatives can broaden your horizons and help you find a two-tone dive watch that perfectly matches your style and preferences, whether you ultimately choose the Submariner Two-Tone or another compelling option.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Submariner Two-Tone

What is "Rolesor" in Rolex Submariner Two-Tone watches?

Rolesor is Rolex's term for watches that combine gold and stainless steel. In Submariner Two-Tone models, it typically refers to the use of solid gold for the bezel, crown, and center links of the bracelet, combined with Oystersteel for the case and outer bracelet links.

Is the Submariner Two-Tone a good investment?

Rolex watches, in general, and especially Submariners, are often considered good investments. Submariner Two-Tone models, with their gold content, can hold their value well and potentially appreciate over time, especially if well-maintained and sought-after references.

How much does a Submariner Two-Tone cost?

Retail prices for new Submariner Two-Tone models vary depending on the specific reference and precious metal used. Expect to pay significantly more than stainless steel Submariners. Grey market and pre-owned prices can fluctuate based on demand and availability. Consult Rolex's official website or authorized dealers for current retail prices.

Is the gold on a Submariner Two-Tone real gold?

Yes, Rolex uses solid 18k gold in its Rolesor watches, including Submariner Two-Tone models. This is not gold plating; it is solid, high-quality gold.

Is the Submariner Two-Tone suitable for diving?

Yes, the Submariner Two-Tone retains the same water resistance and dive watch functionalities as stainless steel Submariners. It is fully capable of being used for diving and other water activities, although some owners may prefer to reserve it for less demanding environments due to its precious metal components.

How often should I service my Submariner Two-Tone?

Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Regular servicing by a Rolex authorized service center is essential to maintain its performance and longevity.

Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Submariner Two-Tone

The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of combining robust functionality with luxurious aesthetics. It's a watch that seamlessly blends the tool watch heritage of the Submariner with the sophisticated allure of gold, creating a timepiece that is both capable and captivating. More than just a watch, the Submariner Two-Tone is a statement piece, a symbol of achievement, and a legacy on the wrist. Its enduring popularity and collectibility are a testament to its timeless design, exceptional craftsmanship, and the enduring power of the Rolex name. For those seeking a watch that offers both substance and style, the Submariner Two-Tone remains an undeniably compelling choice, a golden standard in the world of luxury dive watches.

References and Sources

• Rolex Official Website - Submariner Collection
• Hodinkee - The Rolex Submariner: Reference Points
• Fratello Watches - Speedy Tuesday: Rolex Submariner 16613 Two-Tone – Is it Cool?
• Bob's Watches - Rolex Submariner Two-Tone Watches
• Swiss Watches Magazine - Rolex Rolesor