In the realm of luxury timepieces, few names resonate with the same power and prestige as Rolex. And within the vast Rolex catalog, the Submariner stands as an undisputed icon – a symbol of adventure, precision, and timeless design. While the all-steel Submariner is perhaps the most recognizable, the Submariner Two Tone, often referred to as the Rolesor Submariner by Rolex, offers a compelling blend of robustness and refined elegance. This article delves deep into the world of the Submariner Two Tone, exploring its history, design evolution, appeal, and why it remains a coveted watch for enthusiasts and collectors alike.

From its origins as a professional diver's tool to its modern-day status as a luxury statement piece, the Submariner Two Tone has carved a unique niche. It's a watch that seamlessly transitions from the depths of the ocean to the boardroom, embodying versatility and sophistication. Join us as we explore the nuances of this remarkable timepiece and uncover why the two tone Submariner continues to captivate watch lovers around the globe.

Understanding the 'Two Tone' Concept: Rolesor Explained

Before diving into the specifics of the Submariner Two Tone, it's crucial to understand what "two tone" signifies in the context of Rolex watches. Rolex uses the term "Rolesor" to describe its signature combination of precious metals and stainless steel. This isn't simply a plating; it's a meticulously crafted integration of solid gold (typically 18k yellow or Everose gold) and Oystersteel, Rolex's proprietary 904L stainless steel alloy known for its exceptional corrosion resistance and luster.

In a Rolesor Submariner, the gold is strategically applied to key elements of the watch. Typically, this includes:

  • The Bezel: Often, the bezel itself or at least the numerals and graduations on the bezel insert are crafted from gold.
  • The Crown and Crown Guards: The winding crown and the protective crown guards are frequently rendered in gold, adding a touch of luxury to these functional components.
  • The Bracelet: The most prominent use of gold is often in the bracelet. Rolesor bracelets can feature solid gold center links, creating a striking visual contrast with the steel outer links. This design element is a hallmark of the Submariner Two Tone aesthetic.

This strategic application of gold is not merely for aesthetics. It’s about striking a balance – retaining the inherent strength and durability of stainless steel for the case and bracelet structure while injecting the warmth and prestige of gold into visually impactful areas. This thoughtful combination is what makes the Rolex Submariner Two Tone so distinctive.

A Brief History of the Submariner and the Introduction of Two Tone Models

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953, marking a pivotal moment in dive watch history. Designed as a tool watch for professional divers, it quickly gained recognition for its robustness, water resistance, and legibility. Initially, Submariners were exclusively crafted in stainless steel, embodying their utilitarian purpose.

However, as the Submariner's popularity transcended the diving community, Rolex recognized the demand for more luxurious iterations. The first two tone Submariner models emerged in the late 1960s, catering to a growing audience who appreciated the Submariner's functionality but desired a touch of elegance and status. This marked a significant evolution, transforming the Submariner from a purely functional tool to a versatile luxury watch.

Early vintage Submariner two tone references are highly sought after by collectors today. These models often featured aluminum bezels and tritium lume, contributing to their unique vintage charm. Over the decades, the Submariner Two Tone has evolved alongside its steel counterpart, incorporating advancements in materials, movements, and design while retaining its core DNA.

The Allure of the Submariner Two Tone: Why Choose Rolesor?

The question often arises: why choose a Submariner Two Tone over the classic all-steel version or a full gold model? The answer lies in the unique balance it strikes. Here are some key reasons for its enduring appeal:

  • Versatility and Style: The two tone Submariner offers a remarkable degree of versatility. It's sporty enough for everyday wear and outdoor activities, yet the gold accents elevate its aesthetic, making it suitable for more formal occasions. It bridges the gap between a purely tool watch and a dress watch, making it a truly all-purpose timepiece.
  • Luxury with Understatement: While undeniably luxurious, the Submariner Two Tone is often perceived as more understated than a full gold watch. The steel elements temper the opulence of the gold, resulting in a sophisticated and refined look that isn't overtly flashy.
  • Warmth and Visual Interest: The addition of gold injects warmth and visual interest into the Submariner's design. The contrast between the cool steel and the warm gold creates a dynamic and eye-catching aesthetic that many find more appealing than the monochromatic look of steel.
  • Investment Value: Like all Rolex Submariners, the two tone Submariner models, particularly those in good condition and from recent production, tend to hold their value well and often appreciate over time. While not solely an investment piece, it's a factor that adds to its appeal.
  • A Touch of Prestige: Owning a Rolex, especially one incorporating gold, inherently carries a certain level of prestige. The Submariner Two Tone subtly communicates success and discerning taste without being ostentatious.

Ultimately, the allure of the Submariner Two Tone lies in its ability to offer the best of both worlds – the ruggedness and functionality of the Submariner lineage combined with the luxurious appeal of gold. It's a watch that makes a statement without shouting, appealing to those who appreciate understated elegance and versatility.

Key Submariner Two Tone Models and Their Evolution

Over the years, Rolex has released various Submariner Two Tone references, each with its own nuances and improvements. Here's a look at some notable models and their evolution:

  • Vintage References (e.g., 1680/3, 16613): These earlier models often featured aluminum bezels, acrylic crystals, and tritium lume. The reference 16613, introduced in the late 1980s, is a particularly iconic vintage two tone Submariner, marking a significant step forward in terms of movement and sapphire crystal.
  • Ceramic Bezel Era (116613, 116613LN, 116613LB): The introduction of the ceramic "Cerachrom" bezel in the late 2000s was a major upgrade. References like the 116613LN (black bezel) and 116613LB (blue bezel, often nicknamed "Bluesy") are highly popular. The ceramic bezel is scratch-resistant and fade-proof, enhancing durability and longevity. These models also featured "Maxi Cases" with broader lugs and crown guards, giving them a more substantial wrist presence.
  • Current Generation (126613LN, 126613LB): The current generation Submariner Two Tone, introduced in 2020, features a slightly larger 41mm case (up from 40mm), refined case proportions, and the updated Caliber 3235 movement. This movement boasts improved efficiency, power reserve, and accuracy. The bracelet has also been subtly refined for enhanced comfort. The current references 126613LN (black bezel) and 126613LB ("Bluesy") continue the legacy of their predecessors while incorporating modern advancements.
  • Everose Rolesor (126613 Rolesor Everose): Rolex also offers the Submariner Two Tone in Everose Rolesor, combining Oystersteel with Rolex's patented Everose gold (a proprietary rose gold alloy that resists fading). This variation offers a warmer, more contemporary take on the classic two-tone aesthetic.

Understanding the evolution of these references allows enthusiasts to appreciate the subtle yet significant changes Rolex has implemented over time, maintaining the Submariner Two Tone's relevance and desirability in the modern watch landscape.

Styling and Wearing Your Submariner Two Tone

One of the great advantages of the Submariner Two Tone is its versatility in styling. Here are some tips on how to wear it effectively:

  • Dress it Up: The gold accents allow the Submariner Two Tone to pair surprisingly well with smart casual and even semi-formal attire. It can complement a blazer, dress shirt, or even a suit, adding a touch of sophisticated sportiness.
  • Dress it Down: Equally at home with jeans and a t-shirt, the Submariner Two Tone retains its sporty DNA. It's a robust and stylish companion for everyday wear, errands, and casual outings.
  • Accessorize Thoughtfully: Consider matching your other accessories to the gold elements of the watch. Gold cufflinks, a gold belt buckle, or gold jewelry can create a cohesive and polished look. However, avoid being overly matchy-matchy.
  • Consider the Occasion: While versatile, the Submariner Two Tone might not be the ideal choice for the most formal black-tie events. In such scenarios, a simpler dress watch might be more appropriate. However, for most occasions, it strikes the perfect balance.
  • Embrace the Contrast: Don't be afraid to let the two-tone design stand out. It's meant to be noticed and admired. Wear it with confidence and let it be a conversation starter.

Ultimately, the key to styling a Submariner Two Tone is to embrace its versatility and wear it in a way that reflects your personal style. It's a watch that can adapt to a wide range of looks and occasions, making it a truly valuable addition to any watch collection.

Investing in a Submariner Two Tone: Considerations for Buyers

Purchasing a Submariner Two Tone is a significant investment, both financially and personally. Here are some factors to consider when buying:

  • New vs. Pre-Owned: Decide whether you prefer a brand-new watch from an Authorized Dealer (AD) or a pre-owned model from the secondary market. New watches come with a warranty and the full retail experience, while pre-owned watches can offer potential cost savings but require careful due diligence.
  • Reference and Condition: Research different Submariner Two Tone references and understand their market value. For pre-owned watches, carefully assess the condition of the watch, including the case, bracelet, bezel, and movement. Look for signs of wear, damage, or over-polishing.
  • Authenticity: Especially when buying pre-owned, ensure the watch is authentic. Purchase from reputable dealers or platforms and consider professional authentication services if needed. Check for correct serial numbers, hallmarks, and movement details.
  • Box and Papers: While not essential, having the original box and papers (warranty card, booklets) can enhance the value and desirability of a Submariner Two Tone, particularly for collectors.
  • Budget: Set a realistic budget and be prepared for the price range of Submariner Two Tone models, which can vary depending on reference, condition, and market demand.
  • Long-Term Value: Consider the long-term value and potential appreciation of the specific Submariner Two Tone reference you are interested in. Some references are more collectible than others.

By carefully considering these factors, you can make an informed decision and enjoy your Submariner Two Tone for years to come, knowing you've made a sound investment in a timeless and iconic timepiece.

Care and Maintenance of Your Rolesor Submariner

To ensure your Submariner Two Tone remains in excellent condition and functions optimally for years, proper care and maintenance are essential:

  • Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and lukewarm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry gently. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
  • Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends professional servicing every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Servicing involves cleaning, lubrication, and replacement of worn parts, ensuring the movement operates smoothly and accurately.
  • Avoid Extreme Conditions: While the Submariner is robust, avoid exposing it to extreme temperatures, shocks, or strong magnetic fields.
  • Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe and dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch case.
  • Bracelet Care: Pay attention to the bracelet, especially the gold center links. Clean them regularly and avoid excessive friction or impacts that could scratch the gold.

By following these simple care tips, you can preserve the beauty and longevity of your Submariner Two Tone, ensuring it remains a cherished timepiece for generations.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What is 'Rolesor' in Rolex watches? Rolesor is Rolex's term for two-tone watches, specifically the combination of stainless steel and gold (usually 18k yellow or Everose gold). It's not plating but a solid integration of these precious metals. Is the Submariner Two Tone a good investment? Rolex Submariners, including two-tone models, generally hold their value well and can appreciate over time. However, watch investments are subject to market fluctuations. It's best to buy a watch you love and enjoy, with investment potential being a secondary benefit. Is the Submariner Two Tone suitable for diving? Yes, the Submariner Two Tone retains the same water resistance and diving capabilities as its all-steel counterpart. It is designed to be a functional dive watch, although many owners primarily use it as a luxury timepiece. How does the price of a Submariner Two Tone compare to the steel and full gold versions? The Submariner Two Tone is typically priced higher than the all-steel version but lower than the full gold version. It occupies a mid-range price point within the Submariner collection, reflecting the use of precious gold. What are the most popular Submariner Two Tone models? Popular models include the 116613LN (black bezel), 116613LB ("Bluesy" blue bezel), and the current references 126613LN and 126613LB. Vintage references like the 16613 are also highly sought after.

The Submariner Two Tone stands as a testament to Rolex's ability to blend functionality with luxury. It’s a watch that embodies the spirit of adventure while offering a touch of refined elegance. From its robust construction and diver-ready capabilities to its versatile style and enduring appeal, the Rolex Submariner Two Tone continues to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide. It's more than just a watch; it's a statement of taste, a symbol of achievement, and a timeless icon that will undoubtedly remain a cornerstone of the Rolex collection for generations to come. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a first-time luxury watch buyer, the Submariner Two Tone offers a compelling proposition – a watch that is both incredibly capable and undeniably beautiful.

Rolex Official Website - Submariner Collection: [Insert Link to Official Rolex Submariner Page Here] Hodinkee - "A Complete Guide to the Rolex Submariner": [Insert Link to Hodinkee Submariner Guide Here] WatchTime - "Rolex Submariner: History, Models, Prices": [Insert Link to WatchTime Submariner Article Here] Revolution Watch - "The Rolex Submariner: An In-Depth Look": [Insert Link to Revolution Submariner Article Here]

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