For horology enthusiasts and seasoned collectors, the phrase "Red Face Submariner" conjures images of vintage Rolex dive watches, steeped in history and brimming with rarity. More than just a timepiece, the Red Face Submariner, specifically the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 with red text, represents a pivotal moment in Rolex's iconic Submariner lineage. This article delves deep into the captivating world of the Red Face Submariner, exploring its history, features, collectibility, and why it remains a grail watch for many.
The Allure of the Red Face Submariner: More Than Just a Splash of Color
The Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953, quickly established itself as the quintessential dive watch. Its robust construction, legible dial, and rotating bezel made it an indispensable tool for underwater exploration. Over the decades, Rolex refined the Submariner, introducing various iterations and subtle yet significant changes that fascinate collectors today. Among these, the "Red Face Submariner," or more accurately, the Submariner reference 1680 with red writing, holds a special place due to its relatively short production run and distinctive aesthetic.
The red text on the dial, proclaiming "Submariner" and "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified," is the defining characteristic that sets this specific 1680 model apart. This seemingly minor detail transforms the watch from a standard Submariner into a highly sought-after collectible. The red accent injects a touch of vintage charm and immediately signals to knowledgeable onlookers that this is no ordinary Submariner.
Unpacking the Rolex Submariner 1680 "Red Face": History and Evolution
The Rolex Submariner 1680 was introduced around 1969 and marked a significant milestone: it was the first Submariner model to feature a date complication. Prior Submariners were time-only pieces, adhering to the purist tool watch philosophy. The 1680, however, catered to a broader audience seeking the functionality of a date alongside the Submariner's renowned dive capabilities.
Initially, these Submariner 1680 models were produced with the aforementioned "Red Face" dials. This red text variation is estimated to have been produced for a relatively short period, roughly from 1969 to around 1975. After this period, Rolex transitioned to white text for the Submariner 1680, making the red text versions inherently rarer and more desirable to collectors.
Within the "Red Face Submariner" family itself, there are further variations, known as "Marks" or "Mk" dials. These subtle differences, often related to the font, spacing, and serifs of the red text, add another layer of complexity and intrigue for collectors. Understanding these dial variations is crucial for accurately assessing the value and authenticity of a Red Face Submariner.
Key Dial Variations in the Red Face Submariner 1680:
- Mark I (Mk I): Often characterized by a "closed" 6 in the depth rating (e.g., 660ft) and a slightly bolder, more rounded font for the red text. These are generally considered the earliest and often most valuable Red Submariners.
- Mark II (Mk II): Features an "open" 6 in the depth rating and a slightly thinner, more elegant font for the red text compared to the Mk I.
- Mark III (Mk III): Subtle variations in font and spacing further differentiate this mark. Collectors often debate the precise characteristics and order of these marks, highlighting the nuanced nature of vintage Rolex collecting.
- Mark IV (Mk IV): Considered by some to be the last of the red text dials before the switch to white, often exhibiting slight variations in the "f" in "ft" and other minute details.
Identifying these dial marks requires a keen eye and often the expertise of seasoned collectors and dealers. Numerous online resources and forums are dedicated to dissecting these subtle differences, emphasizing the deep level of passion and detail within the Red Face Submariner collecting community.
Key Features and Characteristics of the Red Face Submariner 1680
Beyond the iconic red text, the Submariner 1680 "Red Face" shares many of the hallmark features of its era's Submariners. These include:
- 40mm Stainless Steel Case: The classic Oyster case, renowned for its robustness and water resistance.
- Rotating Bezel with Aluminum Insert: Used for tracking elapsed dive time, a crucial function for divers. The bezel insert on Red Submariners is typically black, though faded "ghost" bezels are also highly prized by collectors.
- Domed Acrylic Crystal: Plexiglass crystals were standard at the time, offering a warm vintage aesthetic and contributing to the watch's overall character.
- Caliber 1575 Movement: A robust and reliable automatic movement, chronometer-certified for accuracy.
- Oyster Bracelet: Typically paired with an Oyster bracelet, often with folded or later solid links, depending on the production year. The bracelet and clasp can also provide clues to the watch's age and originality.
- Date Cyclops Magnification: The signature Rolex Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o'clock, a defining feature of the 1680 model.
When assessing a Red Face Submariner, collectors pay close attention to the condition and originality of all these components. Matching serial numbers on the case and bracelet, correct dial and bezel for the estimated production year, and original movement parts are all crucial factors in determining authenticity and value.
Rarity, Collectibility, and Investment Potential
The Red Face Submariner's limited production run, coupled with its distinctive aesthetic and historical significance, makes it a highly collectible timepiece. Its rarity is further amplified by the various dial marks, each with its own level of scarcity. Mk I dials, being the earliest, are generally considered the rarest and most valuable.
The market for Red Face Submariners is robust and continually evolving. Prices have steadily increased over the years, reflecting the growing demand for vintage Rolex sports watches. Factors influencing value include:
- Dial Mark and Condition: Rarer dial marks and pristine dial condition command premiums. Original lume (luminous material on hands and dial markers) that has aged evenly and developed a desirable patina is also highly sought after.
- Case Condition: Sharp case edges, original bevels, and minimal polishing are highly valued. Over-polishing can significantly diminish the value of a vintage Rolex.
- Originality: Matching numbers, original parts (dial, hands, bezel, bracelet, movement), and accompanying box and papers (if available) greatly enhance collectibility and value.
- Service History: While originality is key, a well-documented service history by a reputable Rolex specialist is also important to ensure the watch is in good working order.
Investing in a Red Face Submariner requires careful research, due diligence, and often the guidance of experienced dealers or auction houses. Authenticity is paramount, as counterfeit vintage Rolex watches are unfortunately prevalent. Thorough provenance checks and expert authentication are essential before any purchase.
Caring for Your Red Face Submariner: Preserving a Piece of Horological History
Owning a Red Face Submariner is not just about possession; it's about custodianship. These watches are historical artifacts and require careful handling and maintenance to preserve their value and legacy.
Key care tips include:
- Regular Servicing: Routine servicing by a Rolex-certified technician or a specialist in vintage Rolex watches is crucial. Avoid unnecessary polishing during servicing to maintain the case's original lines.
- Careful Handling: While robust, vintage watches are more delicate than modern ones. Avoid shocks, extreme temperatures, and strong magnetic fields.
- Proper Storage: Store your Red Face Submariner in a safe, dry place, preferably in a watch box or winder when not being worn.
- Minimal Exposure to Water: While originally designed for diving, the water resistance of a vintage Submariner cannot be guaranteed. Avoid prolonged or deep water exposure unless the watch has been recently pressure-tested by a qualified technician.
- Insurance: Insure your Red Face Submariner for its current market value to protect your investment against loss or damage.
The Red Face Submariner Legacy: A Timeless Icon
The Red Face Submariner 1680 stands as a testament to Rolex's enduring legacy of innovation and quality. It represents a pivotal moment in the Submariner's evolution, bridging the gap between the tool-focused early models and the more luxurious iterations that followed. Its rarity, distinctive red text, and historical significance solidify its position as a grail watch for collectors worldwide.
While the production of Red Face Submariners ceased decades ago, their allure continues to grow. They are more than just watches; they are tangible pieces of horological history, connecting us to a golden era of dive watch design and exploration. For those fortunate enough to own a Red Face Submariner, it is a privilege and a responsibility to preserve this iconic timepiece for future generations.
FAQ: Common Questions About the Red Face Submariner
What is a Red Face Submariner?
A Red Face Submariner refers to the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 produced with red text on the dial, specifically the words "Submariner" and "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified." It was produced for a limited period in the early 1970s.
How can I identify a genuine Red Face Submariner?
Genuine Red Face Submariners are identified by the red text on the dial, the reference number 1680, and specific dial variations (Marks I-IV). Authentication requires careful examination of dial details, case serial numbers, movement, and often expert appraisal.
What are the different dial Marks of the Red Face Submariner?
There are generally recognized Marks I, II, III, and IV dials, differentiated by subtle variations in the font, spacing, and serifs of the red text, as well as other minor dial details. Mk I dials are typically considered the earliest and rarest.
How much is a Red Face Submariner worth?
The value of a Red Face Submariner varies greatly depending on condition, dial mark, originality, and the presence of box and papers. Prices can range from tens of thousands to well over a hundred thousand dollars for exceptional examples.
Is a Red Face Submariner a good investment?
Historically, Red Face Submariners have proven to be strong investments, appreciating in value over time. However, like any investment, there are risks. Thorough research, careful purchasing, and proper maintenance are crucial for maximizing investment potential.
Where can I buy a Red Face Submariner?
Red Face Submariners are typically found at reputable vintage watch dealers, auction houses specializing in watches, and through private sales within the collecting community. Exercise extreme caution and due diligence to ensure authenticity.
How do I care for a Red Face Submariner?
Care involves regular servicing by a vintage Rolex specialist, careful handling, proper storage, minimal water exposure (unless recently pressure tested), and insurance coverage.
References and Sources:
- Rolex Official Website - www.rolex.com
- "Vintage Rolex Submariners: The Ultimate Guide" by J.M. Dowling and Jeff Hess (Hypoxia Publishing)
- Hodinkee - Leading online watch magazine - www.hodinkee.com
- Fratello Watches - Watch blog and community - www.fratellowatches.com
- WatchUSeek Forums - Large watch enthusiast forum - www.watchuseek.com
