The Rolex Submariner. Just the name conjures images of deep-sea exploration, iconic style, and horological excellence. While the all-stainless steel Submariner is undoubtedly a legend, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, often referred to as the Rolesor Submariner, elevates this iconic timepiece to a new realm of sophisticated luxury. This article delves into the world of the two-tone Submariner, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it remains a coveted choice for watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide.
A Legacy Forged in Steel and Gold: The History of the Two-Tone Submariner
The Rolex Submariner, originally launched in 1953, was conceived as a robust tool watch for divers. Its initial iterations were strictly functional, crafted from stainless steel to withstand the harsh underwater environment. However, Rolex, always attuned to evolving tastes and the desire for luxury, recognized the potential to blend the Submariner's rugged DNA with the opulence of precious metals.
The introduction of two-tone models marked a significant evolution for the Submariner. While the exact date varies slightly depending on the reference, the late 1960s and early 1970s saw the rise of two-tone Submariners, most notably in yellow gold and stainless steel. This combination, termed "Rolesor" by Rolex, perfectly married the durability and corrosion resistance of stainless steel with the warmth and prestige of gold. This wasn't just about aesthetics; it was about offering a Submariner that was equally at home in the boardroom as it was on a boat.
Over the decades, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone has evolved alongside its steel counterpart, adopting advancements in materials, movements, and design. From the early acrylic crystal models to the modern iterations with scratch-resistant ceramic (Cerachrom) bezels and enhanced movements, the two-tone Submariner has consistently remained a prominent and sought-after member of the Submariner family.
Decoding Rolesor: Rolex's Masterful Material Combination
Rolex's use of "Rolesor" is more than just a marketing term; it signifies a deliberate and masterful combination of two distinct materials to create a timepiece that is both robust and luxurious. Let's break down what makes Rolesor so special in the context of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone:
The Strength of Oystersteel
Rolex utilizes 904L stainless steel, often referred to as Oystersteel, for the steel components of their two-tone watches. This isn't your average stainless steel. 904L is a superalloy known for its exceptional resistance to corrosion, pitting, and rust. It's significantly more challenging to machine than standard 316L stainless steel, requiring specialized equipment and expertise, which underscores Rolex's commitment to quality. In a two-tone Submariner, Oystersteel ensures the watch can withstand daily wear and tear, as well as the rigors of aquatic environments, maintaining its integrity and polished finish for years to come.
The Allure of Precious Gold
The gold component in a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is typically either 18k yellow gold or 18k Everose gold (Rolex's proprietary pink gold alloy). Gold brings an undeniable element of luxury, warmth, and prestige to the Submariner's design. Rolex sources only the finest gold and controls every stage of its in-house production, from casting to machining and polishing. The gold elements, often found on the bezel, crown, center links of the bracelet, and dial markers, not only enhance the watch's aesthetic appeal but also signify its elevated status within the Rolex collection.
The Synergy of Two Materials
Rolesor is more than just the sum of its parts. The contrast between the cool, steely grey of Oystersteel and the rich, warm tones of gold creates a visually striking and highly desirable aesthetic. This combination offers a balance – it's luxurious without being ostentatious, sporty yet sophisticated. The two-tone Submariner becomes a versatile watch, capable of transitioning seamlessly from casual to formal settings, making it a compelling choice for a wider range of individuals and occasions.
Why Choose a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone? The Allure Explained
In a market saturated with luxury watches, why does the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone continue to captivate and command attention? Here are some key reasons for its enduring allure:
Versatility and Style
The two-tone Submariner strikes a unique balance between sportiness and elegance. It’s dressier than its all-steel sibling, making it suitable for business environments and formal events, yet it retains the core DNA of a robust diving watch. This versatility is a major draw. It’s a watch you can wear every day, regardless of the occasion, seamlessly transitioning between different aspects of your life. The gold accents elevate the watch beyond a purely utilitarian tool, transforming it into a statement piece that reflects discerning taste and success.
Iconic Design and Recognition
The Submariner is arguably the most recognizable watch design in the world. The two-tone version retains this iconic silhouette while adding a touch of distinction. Wearing a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is instantly recognizable as a symbol of quality, luxury, and achievement. It carries the weight of Rolex's heritage and reputation, projecting an image of confidence and sophistication.
Investment Potential
Rolex watches, in general, have proven to be strong performers in the pre-owned market, and the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is no exception. Certain references, particularly discontinued or vintage models in excellent condition, can appreciate in value over time. While not guaranteed, owning a two-tone Submariner can be seen as both a pleasure and a potentially sound investment. The combination of precious metals and the Submariner's enduring popularity contribute to its desirability in the secondary market.
Durability and Reliability
Despite its luxurious appearance, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone remains a robust and reliable timepiece. It inherits the Submariner's core functionality as a diving watch, offering water resistance to 300 meters (1000 feet). The use of Oystersteel and Rolex's rigorous manufacturing standards ensure exceptional durability and longevity. Inside, Rolex's in-house movements are renowned for their precision, robustness, and reliability, providing accurate timekeeping for years with proper servicing.
Exploring the Two-Tone Submariner Range: Models and Variations
The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is available in several variations, primarily differing in the type of gold used and dial/bezel combinations. Here are some key models and points to consider:
Yellow Gold Rolesor
The classic yellow gold and stainless steel Submariner Two-Tone is perhaps the most iconic iteration. It exudes a timeless warmth and traditional luxury. Common dial colors include black and blue, often paired with matching bezels. This combination offers a strong visual impact and is instantly recognizable as a Rolex statement piece.
Everose Gold Rolesor
Everose gold, Rolex's patented pink gold alloy, provides a more contemporary and subtle take on the two-tone Submariner. The softer, rosy hue of Everose gold offers a sophisticated alternative to yellow gold, appealing to those seeking a more modern expression of luxury. Everose gold Rolesor models are often seen with black or chocolate dials, creating a refined and elegant aesthetic.
Submariner Date vs. No-Date
While the no-date Submariner is highly regarded for its purist design, the vast majority of two-tone Submariners feature the date complication at 3 o'clock with the iconic Cyclops lens. The date function adds practicality to the watch, making it even more suitable for everyday wear.
Bezel and Dial Variations
Modern two-tone Submariners feature Rolex's Cerachrom ceramic bezel inserts, which are virtually scratchproof and highly resistant to fading. Bezel colors typically match the dial color, offering a cohesive and luxurious look. Dial variations may include different indices (e.g., luminous markers, diamond markers on some more opulent versions) and hand styles.
Investing in a Two-Tone Submariner: Considerations for Buyers
Purchasing a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is a significant investment. Here are some crucial considerations for potential buyers:
New vs. Pre-Owned
Deciding between a new and pre-owned two-tone Submariner depends on your budget, preferences, and availability. New models are purchased from authorized Rolex dealers but can have long waiting lists. The pre-owned market offers a wider selection and potentially better value, but requires careful due diligence to ensure authenticity and condition.
Authenticity is Paramount
Due to Rolex's popularity and value, counterfeits are prevalent. Always purchase from reputable sources, such as authorized dealers or trusted pre-owned watch retailers. Thoroughly inspect the watch for hallmarks of authenticity, including serial numbers, Rolex engravings, and quality of materials and finishing. If buying pre-owned, consider having the watch authenticated by a Rolex service center or independent watch expert.
Condition and Provenance
For pre-owned two-tone Submariners, condition is a key factor influencing value. Assess the watch for scratches, dents, and wear, particularly on the gold components, which can be more susceptible to damage than steel. Provenance, or the watch's history and ownership, can also impact value, especially for vintage models.
Market Research and Pricing
Research current market prices for the specific two-tone Submariner reference you are interested in. Prices can fluctuate based on model, condition, and market demand. Compare prices from different sources to ensure you are getting a fair deal. Be wary of prices that seem too good to be true, as they may indicate a counterfeit or problematic watch.
Caring for Your Two-Tone Rolex Submariner
To preserve the beauty and longevity of your Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, proper care and maintenance are essential:
Regular Cleaning
Clean your watch regularly with a soft, damp cloth and mild soapy water. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, which can damage the gold and steel. For deeper cleaning, a soft toothbrush can be used to gently scrub the bracelet and bezel.
Professional Servicing
Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Professional servicing ensures the movement is properly lubricated, seals are checked and replaced, and the watch is functioning optimally. Rolex service centers or authorized service providers are recommended for servicing to maintain the watch's warranty and value.
Proper Storage
When not wearing your two-tone Submariner, store it in a safe, dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch case. This protects it from dust, scratches, and extreme temperatures. Avoid storing it in direct sunlight or humid environments.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is Rolesor in a Rolex watch?
Rolesor is Rolex's term for watches that combine both gold and steel. In the context of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, it specifically refers to the combination of Oystersteel and either yellow gold or Everose gold.
Is a two-tone Submariner a good investment?
Historically, Rolex watches, including two-tone Submariners, have held their value well and often appreciate over time, especially well-maintained and sought-after references. However, watch investment is not guaranteed, and market fluctuations can occur. Purchase for enjoyment first, and consider any potential appreciation as a bonus.
How can I tell if a two-tone Submariner is genuine?
Authenticating a Rolex requires careful inspection of various details, including the Rolex crown logo, dial printing, cyclops lens magnification, bracelet construction, and movement (visible only by opening the case, which should be done by a professional). Purchase from authorized dealers or reputable pre-owned retailers and consider professional authentication if unsure.
Is a two-tone Submariner more durable than an all-steel version?
In terms of robustness and water resistance, both steel and two-tone Submariners are equally durable. The gold components are more prone to scratches and softer than steel. However, with proper care, both materials are highly durable for everyday wear.
What is the best two-tone Submariner model to buy?
The "best" model is subjective and depends on personal preference. The yellow gold Rolesor Submariner is a classic choice, while Everose gold offers a more modern and subtle luxury. Consider your style, budget, and desired aesthetic when choosing between different models and variations.
Conclusion: The Timeless Elegance of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone
The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is more than just a watch; it's a statement of enduring style, robust luxury, and horological excellence. It successfully blends the rugged DNA of the iconic Submariner with the refined elegance of precious gold, creating a timepiece that is both versatile and highly desirable. Whether you are a seasoned watch collector or seeking a significant milestone purchase, the Rolesor Submariner offers a compelling combination of heritage, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal, solidifying its place as a true icon in the world of luxury watches.
References and Sources:
- Rolex Official Website: https://www.rolex.com
- Hodinkee: https://www.hodinkee.com
- WatchTime Magazine: https://www.watchtime.com
- Fratello Watches: https://www.fratellowatches.com
- Bob's Watches (Reputable Pre-owned Rolex Dealer): https://www.bobswatches.com
- Crown & Caliber (Reputable Pre-owned Rolex Dealer): https://www.crownandcaliber.com
