The Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II. Just the name itself evokes a sense of vintage charm, refined luxury, and a touch of the unexpected within the often-conservative world of horology. More than just a nickname, "Root Beer" signifies a specific aesthetic – a captivating blend of warm brown and rich black hues on the bezel, often paired with precious metals, that has garnered a dedicated following among watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide. This article delves into the fascinating world of the Rolex Root Beer GMT, exploring its history, design evolution, variations, investment potential, and everything that makes it a truly iconic timepiece. Whether you're a seasoned collector, a curious newcomer to the world of Rolex, or simply appreciate exceptional design, join us as we uncover the enduring appeal of this horological gem.
A Nickname Born from Color: Understanding the "Root Beer" Moniker
The story of the "Root Beer" nickname is as organic and charming as the watch itself. Unlike some nicknames that are officially sanctioned or derived from celebrity endorsements, "Root Beer" arose naturally from the watch community. It's a straightforward descriptor, referencing the distinct brown and black bezel insert that immediately reminded enthusiasts of the popular soda drink. This bezel, initially crafted from acrylic and later from Rolex's proprietary Cerachrom ceramic, is the defining characteristic that sets the Root Beer GMT apart from its siblings in the GMT-Master II family.
The color combination isn't just visually appealing; it's also subtly luxurious. The warm brown tones, often complemented by gold or Everose gold accents on the case and bracelet, exude a sophisticated and understated elegance. This contrasts with the bolder, more sporty aesthetics of some other GMT-Master II models, contributing to the Root Beer's unique niche within the Rolex lineup.
More Than Just a Nickname: The Root Beer GMT's Place in Rolex History
The Rolex GMT-Master was originally developed in the 1950s in collaboration with Pan American Airways for their pilots and navigators. It needed to display two time zones simultaneously, crucial for transatlantic flights. The iconic two-tone bezel was initially designed for practical purposes – to differentiate day and night hours. However, it quickly became a signature design element of the GMT-Master, and the "Root Beer" variant is a significant chapter in this ongoing story.
While the exact origins of the brown and black bezel color scheme are debated, it's generally understood to have emerged in the late 1960s or early 1970s. These early "Root Beer" models, primarily references 16753 and 16713, were crafted in Rolesor (Rolex's term for combining stainless steel and gold) and featured acrylic bezels that aged beautifully over time, developing unique patinas that are highly sought after by collectors today.
A Journey Through Time: The Evolution of the Root Beer GMT
The Rolex Root Beer GMT has undergone several iterations throughout its history, each reflecting Rolex's commitment to innovation and refinement. Understanding these evolutions helps appreciate the nuances and desirability of different models.
The Vintage Era: References 16753 and 16713 - The Pioneers of "Root Beer"
The vintage "Root Beer" GMT era is largely defined by references 16753 (steel and yellow gold) and 16713 (steel and yellow gold). These models, produced from the late 1970s through the late 1980s and into the 1990s for the 16713, are considered the classic "Root Beer" GMTs. They featured:
- Rolesor Cases: Combining stainless steel for durability and yellow gold for a touch of luxury.
- Acrylic Bezels: These bezels, while less scratch-resistant than modern ceramic, developed a warm, faded patina over time, adding to the vintage charm and uniqueness of each watch. The color could range from a lighter brown to a deeper, almost chocolate hue, depending on exposure to sunlight and environmental factors.
- Jubilee or Oyster Bracelets: Typically paired with either the dressier Jubilee bracelet or the sportier Oyster bracelet, both in Rolesor to match the case.
- Caliber 3075 or 3175 Movements: Reliable and robust movements that provided the GMT functionality.
- Nipple Dial (Sometimes): Early examples, particularly the 16753, are known for their "nipple dials" – so called due to the raised gold markers filled with tritium lume, resembling small nipples. These dials are particularly prized by collectors.
These vintage Root Beer GMTs are highly collectible due to their age, rarity (especially those with exceptional patina or nipple dials), and the nostalgic appeal of their classic design.
The Modern Renaissance: Reference 126711CHNR - The Everose "Root Beer"
After a period where the "Root Beer" aesthetic was absent from the Rolex GMT-Master II lineup, it made a triumphant return in 2018 with the introduction of the reference 126711CHNR. This modern iteration brought the "Root Beer" into the 21st century with significant upgrades and a luxurious twist:
- Rolesor Case with Everose Gold: Instead of yellow gold, the 126711CHNR utilizes Rolex's proprietary 18k Everose gold, a rose gold alloy known for its exceptional resistance to fading and its warm, reddish hue. This gives the modern "Root Beer" a warmer, more contemporary look compared to its yellow gold predecessors.
- Cerachrom Bezel: The acrylic bezel is replaced with a Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert. Cerachrom is virtually scratch-proof, fade-resistant, and incredibly durable, ensuring the bezel maintains its rich brown and black colors for decades to come. The graduations are also filled with gold, further enhancing the luxurious feel.
- Oyster Bracelet with Easylink Comfort Extension: The 126711CHNR is exclusively offered on the sporty Oyster bracelet, also in Everose Rolesor. It features the Easylink comfort extension system, allowing for easy adjustments of approximately 5mm for optimal comfort in varying conditions.
- Caliber 3285 Movement: Powered by Rolex's cutting-edge caliber 3285 movement, the 126711CHNR boasts improved efficiency, accuracy, and a longer power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
- Maxi Case and Dial: The modern "Root Beer" features the "Maxi" case and dial design, with broader lugs and larger hour markers and hands, offering increased wrist presence and improved legibility.
The 126711CHNR is a significant step up in terms of materials, technology, and overall luxury. It represents a modern interpretation of the "Root Beer" aesthetic, appealing to a new generation of collectors while still honoring the legacy of its vintage predecessors.
Key Differences and Improvements: Vintage vs. Modern Root Beer GMT
Here's a table summarizing the key differences between vintage (16753/16713) and modern (126711CHNR) Rolex Root Beer GMTs:
| Feature | Vintage Root Beer GMT (16753/16713) | Modern Root Beer GMT (126711CHNR) |
|---|---|---|
| Gold Type | Yellow Gold | Everose Gold |
| Bezel Material | Acrylic | Cerachrom Ceramic |
| Bracelet Options | Jubilee or Oyster | Oyster Only |
| Bracelet Features | Standard Clasp | Easylink Comfort Extension |
| Movement | Caliber 3075/3175 | Caliber 3285 |
| Case and Dial Design | Classic Case and Dial | Maxi Case and Dial |
| Lume | Tritium (Vintage Lume) | Chromalight (Blue Luminescence) |
Decoding the Design: Materials, Features, and Functionality
Beyond the "Root Beer" moniker, several design elements contribute to the watch's enduring appeal and functionality.
The Root Beer Bezel: A Masterpiece in Brown and Black
The bi-directional rotating bezel with its 24-hour graduated insert is the heart of the GMT-Master II functionality and the defining visual element of the "Root Beer." The brown and black color scheme is not only aesthetically pleasing but also practical for differentiating between day and night hours when tracking a second time zone. On the modern 126711CHNR, the Cerachrom bezel is incredibly resistant to scratches and fading, ensuring long-lasting beauty and functionality. The engraved numerals and graduations are filled with gold or platinum (depending on the model), further enhancing legibility and luxury.
Rolesor and Everose Gold: The Touch of Luxury
Rolex's use of Rolesor, combining Oystersteel and precious gold, is a hallmark of their commitment to both durability and luxury. In the case of the "Root Beer" GMT, the Rolesor construction provides the robustness of stainless steel for the case and bracelet, while the gold (yellow gold in vintage models, Everose gold in the modern version) adds a touch of warmth, elegance, and prestige. Everose gold, in particular, is a sophisticated and modern choice that elevates the 126711CHNR to a new level of luxury.
The GMT Function: Travel and Timekeeping
The GMT function, indicated by the distinctive 24-hour hand and the rotating bezel, is the core functionality of the GMT-Master II. It allows the wearer to track a second time zone simultaneously. This is particularly useful for travelers, pilots, and anyone who needs to keep track of time in different parts of the world. The independent setting of the hour hand (introduced in the GMT-Master II) makes it incredibly convenient to adjust for time zone changes without stopping the watch.
The Movement: Precision Engineering Inside
Rolex movements are renowned for their precision, reliability, and robustness. The vintage "Root Beer" GMTs were powered by the caliber 3075 or 3175 movements, while the modern 126711CHNR is equipped with the caliber 3285. The caliber 3285 is a next-generation movement featuring a Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency and a Parachrom hairspring for greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations. These movements are all Superlative Chronometer certified, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy and performance.
Why the Root Beer GMT Captivates Collectors and Enthusiasts
The Rolex Root Beer GMT holds a special place in the hearts of watch collectors and enthusiasts for a multitude of reasons:
Rarity and Collectibility: A Desirable Asset
Vintage "Root Beer" GMTs, particularly those in excellent condition or with desirable features like "nipple dials" and unique patina, are increasingly rare and highly sought after by collectors. Their limited production numbers and the natural aging process make each vintage piece unique. The modern 126711CHNR, while not vintage, is also highly desirable and often difficult to obtain at retail due to high demand, further enhancing its collectibility potential.
Versatility and Style: From Boardroom to Beach
The "Root Beer" GMT is remarkably versatile. Its sophisticated yet sporty design allows it to transition seamlessly from formal business settings to more casual environments. The warm tones of the bezel and gold accents add a touch of personality and style without being overly ostentatious. It's a watch that can be dressed up or down, making it a great choice for everyday wear and special occasions alike.
The Rolex Legacy: Heritage and Prestige
Owning a Rolex is synonymous with owning a piece of horological history and prestige. The GMT-Master II, and the "Root Beer" variant in particular, represents Rolex's commitment to innovation, quality, and timeless design. It's a watch that carries with it a rich heritage and a reputation for excellence that spans decades.
Investing in a Root Beer GMT: Considerations and Market Value
The Rolex Root Beer GMT, like many Rolex sports models, has proven to be a strong investment over time. However, like any investment, it's essential to consider various factors before purchasing.
Market Trends and Price Appreciation
Both vintage and modern Rolex Root Beer GMTs have seen significant price appreciation in recent years. Vintage models, especially references 16753 and 16713 in good condition, can command prices significantly higher than their original retail. The modern 126711CHNR, due to its high demand and limited availability, also often trades on the secondary market at prices above its retail price. However, watch market trends can fluctuate, so it's crucial to research current market values and consult with reputable watch dealers or appraisers.
Where to Buy: Authorized Dealers and the Pre-Owned Market
Purchasing a Rolex Root Beer GMT can be done through authorized Rolex dealers (for the modern 126711CHNR, if available) or on the pre-owned market. Authorized dealers are the safest option for purchasing new watches, but waiting lists can be long for popular models like the "Root Beer." The pre-owned market offers a wider selection, including vintage models and potentially quicker availability for modern pieces, but it's crucial to buy from reputable dealers or platforms to ensure authenticity and avoid overpaying.
Authenticity and Condition: Essential Checks
When purchasing a Root Beer GMT, especially on the pre-owned market, verifying authenticity and assessing condition is paramount. Key checks include:
- Serial and Reference Numbers: Verify that the serial and reference numbers match Rolex documentation and are consistent with the model and production era.
- Movement Functionality: Ensure the movement is running smoothly, the GMT function operates correctly, and all hands reset properly.
- Cosmetic Condition: Inspect the case, bezel, dial, and bracelet for any signs of damage, wear, or unprofessional polishing. For vintage models, consider the patina and originality of components.
- Box and Papers: While not always essential for vintage watches, original box and papers can add value and provide further assurance of authenticity, especially for modern watches.
Consider having any pre-owned Rolex authenticated by a qualified watchmaker or appraiser before making a significant purchase.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Rolex Root Beer GMT
The Rolex Root Beer GMT is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of enduring style, functional elegance, and horological heritage. From its humble beginnings as a practical tool watch for pilots to its current status as a coveted luxury item and collector's piece, the "Root Beer" has consistently captured the imagination of watch enthusiasts worldwide. Its unique color palette, robust construction, and GMT functionality make it a truly versatile and desirable watch. Whether you are drawn to the vintage charm of the 16753 or 16713, or the modern sophistication of the 126711CHNR, owning a Rolex Root Beer GMT is an experience that connects you to a rich history of innovation and timeless design. It's a watch that transcends trends, remaining a steadfast icon in the ever-evolving world of luxury watches, and a testament to Rolex's enduring commitment to excellence.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About the Rolex Root Beer GMT
- What is a Rolex Root Beer GMT?
- The Rolex Root Beer GMT is a specific variant of the Rolex GMT-Master II watch, characterized by its brown and black bezel insert. The nickname "Root Beer" comes from the resemblance of the bezel colors to the popular soda drink.
- What are the different Rolex Root Beer GMT models?
- The most well-known Rolex Root Beer GMT models are the vintage references 16753 and 16713 (both in Rolesor with yellow gold) and the modern reference 126711CHNR (Rolesor with Everose gold).
- Why is the Rolex Root Beer GMT so popular?
- Its popularity stems from its unique and appealing color scheme, its association with vintage charm (for older models), its luxurious materials (especially Everose gold in the modern version), its GMT functionality, and its overall status as a Rolex sports watch.
- Is the Rolex Root Beer GMT a good investment?
- Both vintage and modern Rolex Root Beer GMTs have shown strong investment potential and price appreciation over time. However, watch market values can fluctuate. Research current market trends and purchase from reputable sources.
- How much does a Rolex Root Beer GMT cost?
- Retail prices for the modern 126711CHNR are set by Rolex, but availability can be limited. Pre-owned prices vary widely depending on model, condition, and market demand. Vintage models can range significantly based on condition, rarity, and specific features.
- Where can I buy a Rolex Root Beer GMT?
- You can purchase the modern 126711CHNR from authorized Rolex dealers (if available) or on the pre-owned market from reputable dealers and platforms. Vintage models are primarily found on the pre-owned market.
- What is the bezel material on the modern Rolex Root Beer GMT?
- The modern Rolex Root Beer GMT (126711CHNR) features a Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert, which is highly scratch-resistant and fade-proof.
References and Sources
- Rolex Official Website
- Hodinkee - Leading watch publication
- Fratello Watches - Watch news and reviews
- Chrono24 - Global watch marketplace
- Revolution Watch - Luxury watch magazine
