In the world of luxury watches, few names resonate with the same power and prestige as Rolex. Among their iconic collections, the GMT-Master II stands out as a symbol of adventure, precision, and timeless style. Within this esteemed family, the "Root Beer" variant occupies a special place, captivating enthusiasts with its distinctive color palette and rich history. This article delves deep into the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," exploring its origins, evolution, design nuances, market value, and why it continues to be a coveted timepiece for collectors and watch aficionados alike.

A Brew of History: The Origins of the GMT-Master and the "Root Beer"

The Rolex GMT-Master was born from a collaboration with Pan American Airways in the early 1950s. Pilots needed a reliable watch capable of displaying two time zones simultaneously, crucial for navigating across continents. Rolex answered this call, and in 1955, the first GMT-Master (reference 6542) was released. Its defining feature was the 24-hour rotating bezel and an additional 24-hour hand, allowing pilots to track a second time zone with ease.

While the initial GMT-Master featured a Bakelite bezel, it was quickly replaced with aluminum for durability. The iconic red and blue "Pepsi" bezel became synonymous with the GMT-Master. However, Rolex, known for its subtle variations and constant refinement, introduced other color combinations over time. Enter the "Root Beer."

The exact origins of the "Root Beer" nickname are debated, but the consensus points to the warm, brown and gold color scheme of the bezel and sometimes the dial, reminiscent of the popular soda. The first "Root Beer" GMT-Master models emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s, primarily in two-tone stainless steel and gold (yellow gold initially, later Everose gold). These early models, often featuring a brown dial and a brown and gold bezel, quickly gained a following for their unique and sophisticated aesthetic, distinct from the sportier "Pepsi" and "Coke" bezels.

Evolution Through References: Tracing the "Root Beer" Lineage

The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is not a single model but rather a lineage of watches spanning several references, each with its own subtle yet significant characteristics. Understanding these references is key to appreciating the evolution and nuances of the "Root Beer."

Vintage "Root Beer" Models: The Golden Era

• Reference 1675/3 (Early "Root Beer"): These vintage models from the late 1960s and 1970s are highly sought after by collectors. They typically feature a brown dial, a brown and gold aluminum bezel insert, and a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. The "nipple" dial markers (raised gold markers filled with tritium) are a characteristic feature of some early 1675/3 models, adding to their vintage charm and desirability. These watches often exhibit a warm patina on the gold and tritium, enhancing their vintage appeal.
• Reference 16753 (Later "Root Beer"): Continuing the legacy of the 1675/3, the 16753 maintained the brown and gold color scheme but often featured a black dial option in addition to the brown. The markers transitioned to applied gold markers with tritium lume. This reference remained in production until the late 1980s and is still considered a classic "Root Beer" GMT-Master.
• Reference 16713 ("Root Beer" Transition to GMT-Master II): This reference marked the transition to the GMT-Master II movement, introducing the independently adjustable hour hand, a significant functional upgrade. The "Root Beer" 16713 continued with the brown and gold bezel and dial options and is often seen as the last of the "classic" two-tone yellow gold "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models. It was eventually discontinued, leaving a gap in the "Root Beer" lineup for some time.

The Modern "Root Beer" Renaissance: Ref. 126715CHNR

After a period without a "Root Beer" variant, Rolex surprised and delighted enthusiasts with the introduction of the GMT-Master II reference 126715CHNR in 2018. This modern iteration marked a significant departure and a luxurious upgrade.

• Reference 126715CHNR (Everose Gold "Root Beer"): This model is crafted entirely from Rolex's proprietary 18k Everose gold, a pink gold alloy known for its exceptional resistance to fading. The bezel features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a two-color Cerachrom insert in brown and black ceramic. This ceramic bezel is incredibly scratch-resistant and fade-proof, ensuring the watch's enduring beauty. The dial is black, providing a striking contrast with the Everose gold case and bezel. It is available on both an Oyster bracelet and a Jubilee bracelet in Everose gold, both equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link. Powering this modern "Root Beer" is the Rolex caliber 3285, a cutting-edge automatic movement known for its precision, reliability, and 70-hour power reserve.

Design and Features: Unpacking the "Root Beer" Aesthetic

The enduring appeal of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" lies in its distinctive and sophisticated design. Several key elements contribute to its unique charm:

• The Bezel: The bi-color bezel is the defining feature. The combination of brown and gold (vintage models) or brown and black (modern Cerachrom) creates a warm, inviting aesthetic that is less overtly sporty than the "Pepsi" or "Coke" bezels, yet still undeniably Rolex. The 24-hour markings on the bezel allow for easy tracking of a second time zone.
• Dial Color and Markers: Vintage models often featured brown dials, complementing the bezel. Modern models typically have black dials, offering a more contemporary and versatile look. The hour markers, whether tritium-filled indices in vintage models or Chromalight-filled applied markers in modern versions, ensure excellent legibility in all lighting conditions.
• Materials: The "Root Beer" is traditionally associated with two-tone configurations, combining stainless steel with gold (yellow gold in vintage, Everose gold in modern). The modern 126715CHNR takes luxury to the next level with its full Everose gold construction. The use of precious metals elevates the watch's status and adds to its inherent value.
• Bracelets: "Root Beer" models have been offered on both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets. The Oyster bracelet provides a sportier, more robust feel, while the Jubilee bracelet offers a dressier and more comfortable option. The modern 126715CHNR offers both in Everose gold, further enhancing the luxurious feel.
• Functionality: As a GMT-Master II, the "Root Beer" boasts the independently adjustable hour hand, allowing for quick and easy setting of the local time without stopping the seconds hand or disturbing the 24-hour hand and bezel time zone indication. This functionality is invaluable for travelers and those who need to track multiple time zones.
• Movement: From the vintage caliber 3075 to the modern caliber 3285, the "Root Beer" has always been powered by robust and reliable Rolex movements. The caliber 3285 in the current model is a testament to Rolex's continuous innovation in watchmaking, offering improved efficiency, precision, and power reserve.

The "Root Beer" in the Market: Value and Investment Potential

The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is highly sought after in both the pre-owned and new markets. Its unique aesthetic, historical significance, and Rolex's inherent desirability contribute to its strong market value.

• Vintage "Root Beer" Values: Vintage references like the 1675/3 and 16753 have seen significant appreciation in value over the years. Condition, dial type (nipple dials are particularly prized), and provenance play crucial roles in determining the price. Well-preserved examples can command substantial premiums at auction and in private sales.
• Modern "Root Beer" Values (126715CHNR): The Everose gold 126715CHNR is a highly coveted and relatively scarce model. Being crafted in precious metal and featuring a ceramic bezel, it commands a significant retail price and often trades above retail on the secondary market, especially for unworn or near-mint examples. Its luxurious materials and limited production contribute to its desirability as an investment piece.
• Investment Considerations: Rolex watches, in general, are considered strong investments, and the "Root Beer" variants are no exception. Their limited production, enduring popularity, and Rolex's brand reputation contribute to their potential for long-term value appreciation. However, like any investment, market fluctuations and trends can influence prices. It's essential to research specific references, understand market conditions, and purchase from reputable sources.

Who is the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" For?

The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II appeals to a diverse range of watch enthusiasts:

• Collectors: Vintage "Root Beer" models are highly desirable for serious Rolex collectors seeking to add iconic and historically significant pieces to their collections. The nuances between different vintage references offer ample ground for focused collecting.
• Luxury Watch Aficionados: The modern Everose gold 126715CHNR caters to those seeking the ultimate in luxury and exclusivity. Its precious metal construction, ceramic bezel, and cutting-edge movement make it a statement piece that exudes sophistication and refinement.
• Travelers and Globetrotters: The GMT functionality remains highly practical for frequent travelers. The "Root Beer" offers this functionality in a stylish and distinctive package, making it a perfect travel companion.
• Those Seeking a Versatile and Unique Rolex: The "Root Beer" offers a departure from the more common stainless steel sports Rolex models. Its warm color palette and two-tone or full gold options provide a unique aesthetic that can be dressed up or down, making it a versatile choice for various occasions.

Pros and Cons of Owning a Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"

As with any luxury timepiece, there are both advantages and considerations to owning a Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer":

Pros:

• Iconic Design: The "Root Beer" is instantly recognizable and admired for its unique and sophisticated aesthetic.
• GMT Functionality: The practical GMT function is invaluable for travelers and those tracking multiple time zones.
• Investment Potential: "Root Beer" models, particularly vintage and modern precious metal versions, have strong investment potential.
• Rolex Quality and Reliability: Rolex watches are renowned for their exceptional build quality, durability, and precision.
• Versatility: The "Root Beer" can be surprisingly versatile, suitable for both casual and more formal settings, depending on the specific reference and bracelet.
• Exclusivity (Modern Models): The Everose gold 126715CHNR is a relatively exclusive model, enhancing its desirability and prestige.

Cons:

• Price: Rolex watches, especially precious metal models and those in high demand, are expensive. "Root Beer" models are no exception.
• Availability: Modern "Root Beer" models can be difficult to acquire at authorized dealers due to high demand and limited supply. Vintage models require careful sourcing to ensure authenticity and condition.
• Maintenance Costs: Luxury watches require periodic servicing, which can be costly.
• Potential for Scratches (Gold Models): Gold, while luxurious, is softer than stainless steel and more prone to scratches, particularly on polished surfaces.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"

Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the "Root Beer"

The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a watch; it's a statement of style, a testament to Rolex's enduring legacy, and a symbol of discerning taste. From its vintage origins as a sophisticated travel companion to its modern reincarnation as a luxurious masterpiece in Everose gold, the "Root Beer" continues to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide. Its unique color palette, robust functionality, and inherent Rolex quality ensure its place as a timeless icon in the world of horology. Whether you are a seasoned collector, a luxury watch aficionado, or simply someone who appreciates exceptional design and craftsmanship, the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" remains a compelling and highly desirable timepiece, a true brew of horological excellence.