The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of sophisticated travel, vintage charm, and enduring style. This iconic watch, instantly recognizable by its warm, earthy tones, has captivated watch enthusiasts and collectors for decades. In this comprehensive guide, we delve deep into the world of the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, exploring its rich history, distinctive design, various iterations, and why it continues to be a highly sought-after piece in the world of horology.
Introduction: More Than Just a Nickname - Unveiling the "Root Beer" Rolex GMT-Master II
Nicknames in the watch world often arise organically from the community, reflecting a timepiece's unique characteristics. The "Root Beer" moniker, affectionately bestowed upon certain Rolex GMT-Master models, is a testament to the watch's warm, brown and gold color scheme, reminiscent of the classic soda. While the official Rolex name doesn't include "Root Beer," this nickname has stuck, becoming synonymous with a specific aesthetic and a certain era of GMT-Master history. This article will explore what makes the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II so special, covering its design elements, historical context, and its place in the modern Rolex landscape.
A Rich History: Tracing the Roots of the "Root Beer" GMT-Master
To truly appreciate the "Root Beer," we must first understand the lineage of the Rolex GMT-Master. Originally designed in collaboration with Pan American Airways in the 1950s, the GMT-Master was conceived as a tool watch for pilots and navigators needing to track multiple time zones simultaneously. The key innovation was the 24-hour rotating bezel and the additional 24-hour hand, allowing for the reading of a second time zone – Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), hence the name.
The Birth of the GMT-Master and the Need for Dual Time
The first GMT-Master, reference 6542, was a groundbreaking watch, featuring a Bakelite bezel insert and a distinctive red and blue "Pepsi" bezel. It quickly became an essential tool for professionals in the burgeoning jet age. Over the years, the GMT-Master evolved, with improvements in materials, movements, and functionality. However, it was in the late 1960s and early 1970s that the "Root Beer" aesthetic began to emerge, marking a shift towards a more luxurious and less purely utilitarian design.
The Arrival of the "Root Beer": The Brown and Gold Era Begins
The "Root Beer" era of the GMT-Master is generally considered to have started with the reference 1675/3. This model introduced a brown and gold bezel insert, often referred to as "nipple" dials due to the applied gold indices that resembled nipples. The warmth of the brown and gold combination offered a departure from the more common black and red/blue bezels, appealing to a different aesthetic sensibility. This two-tone (stainless steel and yellow gold) version became instantly recognizable and associated with a certain level of prestige and sophistication. The subsequent reference 16753 further solidified the "Root Beer" as a desirable variant, continuing the brown and gold bezel theme but moving to a more conventional dial design with applied gold stick or Roman numeral markers.
Decoding the "Root Beer" Design: Aesthetics and Functionality
The allure of the "Root Beer" GMT-Master lies in its distinctive and harmonious design. It's not just about the color; it's about the interplay of materials, textures, and the overall impression it creates on the wrist.
The Iconic Bezel: Brown and Black or Brown and Gold?
The defining feature of the "Root Beer" is undoubtedly its bezel. Initially, "Root Beer" bezels were primarily brown and gold, achieved through a brown bezel insert with gold numerals and markers. This two-tone bezel perfectly complemented the two-tone cases of the era. As materials and manufacturing processes evolved, later "Root Beer" iterations also featured a brown and black Cerachrom (Rolex's proprietary ceramic) bezel. While the color palette remained reminiscent of the original "Root Beer," the ceramic bezel offered enhanced scratch resistance and fade resistance, contributing to the watch's long-term durability and aesthetic appeal. The specific shade of brown can vary slightly between different generations and lighting conditions, adding to the watch's nuanced character.
Materials and Variations: Steel, Two-Tone, and Everose Gold
The "Root Beer" aesthetic has been expressed across various materials within the GMT-Master II range. Historically, it was strongly associated with two-tone models, combining stainless steel with yellow gold. This combination provided a luxurious yet sporty look. However, Rolex has also introduced "Root Beer" variations in full Everose gold (Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy) and, more recently, in Oystersteel (Rolex's 904L stainless steel) with Everose gold accents. Each material combination brings a unique character to the "Root Beer" design, offering options for different tastes and preferences. The use of Everose gold, in particular, has given a contemporary and luxurious twist to the classic "Root Beer" color scheme.
Dials, Bracelets, and Movements: The Evolution of the "Root Beer"
The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II has seen variations in dial designs, bracelets, and movements over its lifespan. Vintage models often featured "nipple" dials, while later models adopted more conventional applied indices. Dial colors generally remained in the warm spectrum, often in shades of brown or black to complement the bezel. Bracelet options have included Oyster bracelets in two-tone, full gold, or Oystersteel with gold accents, as well as leather straps for a dressier look. Internally, the "Root Beer" has benefited from Rolex's continuous advancements in movement technology. Moving from earlier calibers to the modern Caliber 3285 in contemporary models, the movements have become increasingly precise, reliable, and offer longer power reserves. These advancements underscore Rolex's commitment to both aesthetic appeal and technical excellence.
Navigating the "Root Beer" Family: Models and References
Understanding the different "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models and references is crucial for collectors and enthusiasts. Here's a breakdown of key variations:
Vintage "Root Beer" GMTs: A Collector's Dream
Vintage "Root Beer" GMTs, particularly references 1675/3 and 16753, hold a special place in collector's hearts. These models represent the original "Root Beer" aesthetic and often feature desirable vintage characteristics such as tritium lume, matte dials (in earlier examples), and unique patina development over time. The "nipple dial" 1675/3 is particularly sought after for its distinctive dial markers. These vintage references are becoming increasingly rare and valuable, representing a tangible piece of Rolex and "Root Beer" history.
Modern "Root Beer" GMTs: The Contemporary Classics
In the modern Rolex lineup, the "Root Beer" spirit is embodied by references like the 126711CHNR (two-tone Everose Rolesor) and the 126755SARU (Everose gold with diamond and sapphire bezel). The 126711CHNR is perhaps the most direct descendant of the classic "Root Beer," featuring a brown and black Cerachrom bezel, an Everose Rolesor case, and a black dial. It offers a contemporary interpretation of the "Root Beer" aesthetic with modern materials and movement technology. The 126755SARU, while a more opulent and gem-set variation, also utilizes the brown and black color scheme, showcasing the versatility of the "Root Beer" palette across different levels of luxury.
Why "Root Beer" is More Than Just a Nickname: The Allure and Investment Potential
The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II's enduring appeal goes beyond its distinctive nickname. Several factors contribute to its desirability:
- Unique Aesthetic: The warm brown and gold tones offer a sophisticated alternative to more common watch color schemes. It's a versatile palette that can be dressed up or down.
- Vintage Charm: For many, the "Root Beer" evokes a sense of nostalgia and classic style, reminiscent of a golden era of travel and design.
- Rarity and Collectibility: Certain vintage "Root Beer" models are becoming increasingly rare and sought after by collectors, driving up their value. Even modern iterations are highly desirable and often difficult to obtain at retail.
- Investment Potential: Rolex watches, in general, have proven to be strong investments, and the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is no exception. Its iconic status and limited availability contribute to its potential for appreciation in value over time.
- Versatility: Despite its distinctive color scheme, the "Root Beer" is surprisingly versatile. It pairs well with a range of styles, from casual to formal attire.
Acquiring Your Own "Root Beer": A Buyer's Guide
If you're considering adding a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II to your collection, here are some key considerations:
New vs. Pre-Owned: Navigating the Market
Obtaining a brand new "Root Beer" GMT-Master II at retail can be challenging due to high demand and limited supply. Authorized Dealers (ADs) often have waiting lists, and availability can vary significantly. The pre-owned market offers a more readily accessible route to acquiring a "Root Beer," both vintage and modern. However, it's crucial to buy from reputable dealers and thoroughly research the watch's condition and provenance.
Price Range and Value Factors
Prices for "Root Beer" GMT-Master IIs vary widely depending on the reference, condition, age, and market demand. Vintage models, especially those in excellent condition with original boxes and papers, can command significant premiums. Modern "Root Beer" models also trade at prices above retail in the secondary market. Factors influencing value include:
- Reference Number: Certain references, particularly vintage and discontinued ones, are more valuable.
- Condition: Pristine condition with minimal wear and tear is highly valued.
- Completeness: Original box, papers, and accessories enhance value.
- Dial Type: "Nipple" dials on vintage models can be particularly desirable.
- Market Trends: Overall demand for Rolex watches and specific "Root Beer" models influences prices.
Where to Buy and Authentication Tips
When purchasing a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, especially in the pre-owned market, prioritize buying from reputable sources such as:
- Authorized Rolex Dealers (ADs): For new watches (if available) and sometimes certified pre-owned.
- Well-Established Pre-Owned Watch Dealers: Dealers with a strong reputation and expertise in Rolex watches.
- Online Marketplaces with Escrow Services: Platforms that offer buyer protection and authentication services.
- Serial and Reference Numbers: Verify these are consistent and match Rolex standards for the purported model and year.
- Movement: If possible, have a watchmaker inspect the movement to ensure it's genuine.
- Dial and Bezel: Examine for correct fonts, lume application, and bezel insert details.
- Overall Finish and Quality: Rolex watches are known for their exceptional quality. Look for sharp details and consistent finishing.
- Ask for Provenance: Inquire about the watch's history and any available documentation.
Caring for Your "Root Beer" GMT-Master II
To ensure your "Root Beer" GMT-Master II remains in excellent condition and retains its value, proper care and maintenance are essential. This includes regular cleaning with a soft cloth and mild soapy water (avoiding harsh chemicals), periodic servicing by a Rolex-certified watchmaker (typically every 5-7 years, or as recommended by Rolex), and storing it in a safe and dry place when not worn. For two-tone and gold models, gentle polishing with a specialized jewelry cloth can help maintain their luster.
Conclusion: The Timeless Taste of the "Root Beer" Rolex
The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a watch with a catchy nickname; it's a testament to Rolex's design prowess, technical innovation, and enduring appeal. From its vintage origins to its modern iterations, the "Root Beer" has consistently captivated watch lovers with its warm, distinctive aesthetic and its inherent Rolex quality. Whether you're drawn to its vintage charm, its luxurious materials, or its investment potential, the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II remains a timeless icon in the world of horology – a watch that truly embodies style, functionality, and a taste for the finer things in life.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About the Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II
Why is it called "Root Beer"?
- The nickname "Root Beer" comes from the watch's brown and gold color scheme, which is reminiscent of the classic root beer soda drink.
What are the different "Root Beer" models?
- Key "Root Beer" models include vintage references 1675/3 and 16753, and modern references 126711CHNR (Everose Rolesor) and 126755SARU (Everose gold with gems). There have been slight variations within these references over time.
Is the "Root Beer" GMT a good investment?
- Rolex watches, including "Root Beer" GMTs, are generally considered good investments. Their value often appreciates over time, especially for well-maintained and sought-after models. However, watch investment is subject to market fluctuations and should be approached with informed research.
How much does a "Root Beer" Rolex cost?
- Prices vary significantly. Retail prices for current models are set by Rolex, but availability is limited. Pre-owned prices depend on the reference, condition, and market demand, ranging from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of dollars, especially for rare vintage models or gem-set versions.
Where can I buy a genuine "Root Beer" GMT-Master II?
- Purchase from authorized Rolex dealers for new watches (if available), reputable pre-owned watch dealers, or established online marketplaces with authentication services. Always prioritize authentication and due diligence when buying, particularly in the pre-owned market.
References and Further Reading
For more in-depth information, consider exploring the following resources:
- Rolex Official Website: www.rolex.com (for current models and official information)
- Reputable Watch News and Review Websites: (e.g., Hodinkee, WatchTime, Fratello Watches) for articles and historical context.
- Vintage Watch Collector Guides: Books and online resources dedicated to vintage Rolex watches and GMT-Master history.
- Online Watch Forums and Communities: (e.g., Rolex Forums, WatchUSeek) for discussions and insights from collectors and enthusiasts.
