The Rolex Submariner. The name itself conjures images of deep-sea exploration, sophisticated style, and horological excellence. While the all-stainless steel version is undeniably iconic, the Rolex Sub 2 Tone, often referred to as the Rolesor Submariner, offers a distinct blend of robustness and refined luxury. This article delves into the captivating world of the two-tone Submariner, exploring its history, design nuances, market appeal, and everything you need to know before considering adding this exceptional timepiece to your collection.

The Enduring Legacy of the Rolex Submariner

Before we focus specifically on the two-tone iteration, it's crucial to understand the foundational significance of the Rolex Submariner. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was revolutionary. It was the first wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), designed specifically for divers. This pioneering spirit of functionality and durability cemented its place in horological history. Over the decades, the Submariner has evolved, incorporating advancements in materials, movements, and design, yet retaining its core identity as a supremely capable and instantly recognizable watch.

From its early tool-watch origins, the Submariner transcended its utilitarian purpose to become a symbol of success and sophisticated taste. It’s been seen on the wrists of adventurers, celebrities, and discerning individuals worldwide, solidifying its status as a true icon. This evolution paved the way for variations like the two-tone model, which introduced a layer of luxury to the already robust framework.

The Allure of Two-Tone: Rolesor in the Submariner Lineage

Rolex coined the term "Rolesor" to describe the harmonious marriage of gold and Oystersteel in their watches. In the Rolex Sub 2 Tone, this combination is masterfully executed, creating a timepiece that is both visually striking and materially superior. The introduction of gold into the Submariner design was a natural progression, catering to a growing demand for luxury watches that retained their inherent functionality. The two-tone model offered a middle ground – not as overtly precious as a full gold watch, but significantly more luxurious than the standard stainless steel.

The Rolesor construction in the Submariner typically features Oystersteel for the case and outer links of the bracelet, providing strength and corrosion resistance. The gold, usually 18k yellow gold or Everose gold (Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy), is used for the center links of the bracelet, the bezel, and the crown. This strategic placement of gold highlights key design elements and adds warmth and visual interest without compromising the watch's robustness.

Yellow Gold vs. Everose Gold Two-Tone Submariners

Within the realm of Rolex Sub 2 Tone models, you'll primarily encounter two gold variations: yellow gold and Everose gold.

  • Yellow Gold Two-Tone Submariner: This is the classic and arguably more traditional choice. Yellow gold exudes a timeless elegance and a sense of established luxury. It offers a strong contrast against the Oystersteel, creating a visually bold and recognizable look. The yellow gold two-tone Submariner has been a staple in the Rolex catalog for decades, with iconic references like the 16613 and the current 126613LB (blue dial and bezel) and 126613LN (black dial and bezel).
  • Everose Gold Two-Tone Submariner: Everose gold, Rolex's patented rose gold alloy, offers a more contemporary and subtle take on luxury. Its unique hue, designed to never fade, provides a warmer and softer aesthetic compared to yellow gold. Everose gold two-tone Submariners, such as the 126613LR (black dial and bezel), offer a sophisticated and modern appeal, attracting those who prefer a less traditional but equally luxurious look.

The choice between yellow and Everose gold ultimately comes down to personal preference and style. Both offer the same inherent quality and craftsmanship, just with different visual personalities.

Design Elements and Key Features of the Rolex Sub 2 Tone

The Rolex Sub 2 Tone retains all the core design elements that make the Submariner iconic, enhanced by the addition of gold. Let's examine some key features:

  • Oyster Case: The robust Oyster case, crafted from Oystersteel, provides exceptional water resistance (currently 300 meters/1000 feet) and protects the precision movement within.
  • Rolesor Bracelet: The signature Oyster bracelet in Rolesor construction is both comfortable and secure. The contrasting gold center links elevate the aesthetic and add a touch of luxury. The Oysterlock clasp with Glidelock extension system ensures a perfect fit and allows for easy adjustments, even over a wetsuit.
  • Cerachrom Bezel Insert: Most modern Rolex Sub 2 Tone models feature a Cerachrom bezel insert. This ceramic material is virtually scratchproof, fade-resistant, and highly durable. The bezel is unidirectional, a crucial safety feature for divers, and the numerals and graduations are molded and then coated with gold or platinum.
  • Luminescent Display: Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence ensures excellent legibility in low-light conditions, a vital feature for a dive watch and appreciated in everyday wear.
  • Cyclops Lens: The Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o'clock is a signature Rolex design element, magnifying the date for enhanced readability.
  • Automatic Movement: Powered by Rolex's in-house Calibre movements (currently the Calibre 3235), the Rolex Sub 2 Tone offers exceptional precision, reliability, and longevity. These movements are Superlative Chronometer certified, guaranteeing exceptional performance.

Why Choose a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

The Rolex Sub 2 Tone occupies a unique position in the Rolex lineup. It appeals to a specific type of watch enthusiast who appreciates the following:

  • Versatility: The two-tone Submariner bridges the gap between sporty tool watch and dressy luxury timepiece. It's equally at home in the boardroom as it is on a weekend adventure. It can be dressed up or down more easily than a purely stainless steel or full gold watch.
  • Distinctive Style: The combination of steel and gold creates a visually striking and recognizable aesthetic. It stands out from the crowd without being overly ostentatious.
  • Investment Value: Like most Rolex Submariners, the Rolex Sub 2 Tone models tend to hold their value well and often appreciate over time, especially discontinued or sought-after references. While perhaps not appreciating at the same rate as some stainless steel sport models, they still represent a sound investment in horological terms.
  • Luxury and Durability: You get the best of both worlds – the inherent robustness and reliability of the Submariner platform combined with the luxurious appeal of gold. It’s a watch that can withstand daily wear and tear while still exuding sophistication.
  • Status Symbol: Owning a Rolex is often seen as a symbol of achievement and good taste. The Rolex Sub 2 Tone elevates this status further, signifying a discerning appreciation for both quality and style.

Market Perception and Resale Value

The market perception of the Rolex Sub 2 Tone has fluctuated over time. In certain eras, stainless steel Submariners were considered more desirable, while in others, two-tone models enjoyed greater popularity. Currently, there's a strong resurgence in the appreciation for two-tone watches, including the Submariner. This is partly due to evolving trends in watch collecting and a growing recognition of the two-tone Submariner's versatility and unique appeal.

In terms of resale value, Rolex Sub 2 Tone models generally perform very well, although historically, stainless steel sport models have often seen higher appreciation. However, demand for two-tone Submariners is robust, and well-maintained examples, especially newer references with Cerachrom bezels and updated movements, command strong prices on the pre-owned market. Limited edition or particularly desirable dial variations (like the blue dial "Bluesy" in yellow gold) can also fetch premium prices.

Choosing Your Rolex Submariner Two-Tone

If you're considering purchasing a Rolex Sub 2 Tone, here are some factors to consider:

  • Gold Type: Yellow gold for a classic and bold look, or Everose gold for a more modern and subtle elegance.
  • Dial Color: Black is the most versatile and traditional choice, while blue dials (like the "Bluesy") offer a more vibrant and distinctive appearance.
  • Bezel Color: Typically matching the dial color, the bezel contributes significantly to the overall aesthetic.
  • Reference Number: Research specific reference numbers to understand their features, production years, and market value. Modern references (e.g., 126613) offer updated movements and features compared to older references (e.g., 16613).
  • Condition and Authenticity: When purchasing pre-owned, prioritize condition and authenticity. Buy from reputable dealers and ensure the watch comes with original box and papers if possible. Consider professional authentication.
  • Budget: Rolex Sub 2 Tone watches are a significant investment. Set a realistic budget and research current market prices to ensure you're getting a fair deal.

Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone

The Rolex Sub 2 Tone is more than just a luxury watch; it's a statement. It represents a harmonious blend of rugged capability and refined elegance, appealing to those who appreciate both functionality and style. With its rich history, iconic design, and enduring value, the two-tone Submariner remains a highly sought-after timepiece within the Rolex universe and beyond. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a first-time luxury watch buyer, the Rolex Sub 2 Tone offers a compelling combination of heritage, performance, and enduring aesthetic appeal, solidifying its place as a true icon of horology.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone

What does "Rolesor" mean in Rolex watches?

Rolesor is Rolex's term for watches that combine gold and Oystersteel. In the Rolex Sub 2 Tone, this typically refers to Oystersteel for the case and outer bracelet links, and 18k gold (yellow or Everose) for the bezel, crown, and center bracelet links.

Is a two-tone Rolex Submariner a good investment?

Generally, yes. Like most Rolex Submariners, two-tone models tend to hold their value well and often appreciate over time. While stainless steel sport models may sometimes see faster appreciation, Rolex Sub 2 Tone watches remain a solid investment in the luxury watch market.

Is the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone waterproof?

Yes, the modern Rolex Sub 2 Tone is waterproof to 300 meters (1000 feet), just like its stainless steel counterpart. It's designed to be a professional dive watch.

How do I care for a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

Regular cleaning with a soft cloth and mild soapy water is recommended. Professional servicing by Rolex or an authorized service center is advised every 5-10 years to maintain optimal performance and longevity. Avoid exposing the watch to harsh chemicals or extreme temperatures.

What is the price range for a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

Retail prices for new Rolex Sub 2 Tone models vary depending on the reference and gold type, but generally start upwards of $15,000 USD. Pre-owned prices can vary based on condition, reference, and market demand.

Where can I buy a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

New Rolex Sub 2 Tone watches can be purchased from authorized Rolex dealers. Pre-owned models are available from reputable watch dealers, online marketplaces specializing in luxury watches, and auction houses. Always ensure authenticity when purchasing pre-owned.

What are some popular Rolex Submariner Two-Tone references?

Popular references include the vintage 16613 (yellow gold), the modern 126613LB (yellow gold blue dial/bezel "Bluesy"), 126613LN (yellow gold black dial/bezel), and 126613LR (Everose gold black dial/bezel).

Is a two-tone watch outdated?

No, two-tone watches are not outdated. They experience fluctuations in popularity, but currently, two-tone watches, including the Rolex Sub 2 Tone, are experiencing a resurgence in appreciation and are considered stylish and versatile.


References and Sources:

The copyright of this article belongs tounited luxury watchesAll, if you forward it, please indicate it!