For over half a century, the Rolex Explorer II has stood as a beacon of robust reliability and functional design within the world of luxury timepieces. Often overshadowed by its more famous sibling, the Submariner, the Explorer II holds its own unique appeal, particularly for those who appreciate understated sophistication combined with genuine tool watch capabilities. This comprehensive Rolex Explorer II review will delve into the history, design, features, and overall value of this iconic adventure companion, helping you understand why it deserves a prominent place in horological history and perhaps even on your wrist.
A Legacy Forged in Exploration: The History of the Explorer II
To truly appreciate the Explorer II, understanding its roots is essential. Launched in 1971 with the reference 1655, the Explorer II was conceived as a specialized tool watch for explorers, particularly spelunkers and polar explorers working in environments where distinguishing day from night was critical. This is where the hallmark 24-hour bezel and distinctive orange 24-hour hand originated. While the original Explorer focused on simplicity and legibility, the Explorer II added crucial functionality for extreme conditions.
Over the years, the Explorer II has evolved through several iterations, each refining its design and incorporating technological advancements while staying true to its core DNA. Key milestones include:
- Reference 1655 (1971-1985): The original "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") with its fixed 24-hour bezel and orange 24-hour hand. Characterized by its distinctive, somewhat divisive, design.
- Reference 16550 (1985-1989): A significant update, introducing the Caliber 3085 movement with a true GMT function (independently adjustable 12-hour hand), a sapphire crystal, and a cleaner dial design. Initially, some models featured a "cream dial" that has become highly sought after by collectors.
- Reference 16570 (1989-2011): Refined the 16550, utilizing the Caliber 3185 (later 3186) movement. Offered in both black and the now-iconic "Polar" white dial. Maintained a 40mm case size and became a long-running and popular reference.
- Reference 216570 (2011-2021): Marked a significant size increase to 42mm, modernizing the watch for contemporary tastes. Introduced the Caliber 3187 movement and larger Chromalight lume markers. Available in Polar and Black dial options.
- Reference 226570 (2021-Present): The current generation, featuring the updated Caliber 3285 movement, slimmer case profile despite the 42mm size, and subtle design refinements. Continues to be offered in Polar and Black dial variants.
This evolution demonstrates Rolex's commitment to continuous improvement, ensuring the Explorer II remains a relevant and highly capable timepiece in the 21st century.
Design and Features: A Detailed Examination
The Rolex Explorer II is instantly recognizable, blending robustness with a touch of understated elegance. Let's break down its key design elements and features:
Case and Bezel
Crafted from Rolex's proprietary 904L Oystersteel, the Explorer II case is renowned for its exceptional corrosion resistance and durability. The current 42mm case size (Reference 226570) offers a contemporary presence on the wrist while remaining comfortable for daily wear. The watch boasts a robust, brushed finish on the top of the lugs and polished sides, creating a subtle contrast. The iconic fixed 24-hour bezel, also made of Oystersteel, is a defining feature. Its engraved and black-filled numerals are highly legible and crucial for tracking a second time zone or utilizing the 24-hour function in disorienting environments.
Earlier references (16570) featured a 40mm case, which appeals to those who prefer a more classic and traditionally sized sports watch. Both sizes offer excellent wrist presence, and the choice often comes down to personal preference.
Dial and Hands
The Explorer II dial prioritizes legibility above all else. Available in both black and the highly sought-after "Polar" white, the dials are designed for maximum contrast in all lighting conditions. The Polar dial, in particular, is a standout feature, offering a unique and highly visible backdrop for the black hands and indices. Both dial versions feature applied hour markers filled with Chromalight lume, Rolex's proprietary luminescent material, which emits a long-lasting blue glow for exceptional low-light visibility.
The hand set is functional and distinctive. The Mercedes hour hand, baton minute hand, and sweeping seconds hand are all highly legible. The signature orange 24-hour hand (or red in earlier models) is a key differentiator, pointing to the 24-hour bezel to indicate the second time zone or to simply differentiate AM/PM hours. This hand adds a pop of color and reinforces the watch's tool watch heritage.
Movement: Caliber 3285 - Precision and Reliability
At the heart of the current Explorer II (Reference 226570) beats the Rolex Caliber 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. This self-winding mechanical movement is entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex and boasts a Superlative Chronometer certification, guaranteeing exceptional precision of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. It features a Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency, a Parachrom hairspring for greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations, and a robust architecture for long-term reliability. The movement offers a comfortable 70-hour power reserve, allowing you to set it down for a weekend and pick it up ready to go.
Previous references utilized the Caliber 3185, 3186, and 3187 movements, all renowned for their robustness and accuracy. The evolution of these movements reflects Rolex's ongoing commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological engineering.
Bracelet and Clasp
The Explorer II is fitted with the iconic Oyster bracelet in 904L Oystersteel. This three-link bracelet is known for its comfort, durability, and secure feel on the wrist. The brushed finish complements the case and bezel, creating a cohesive and sporty aesthetic. The bracelet is equipped with the Oysterlock safety clasp, preventing accidental opening, and the Easylink comfort extension system, allowing for quick and tool-free adjustment of approximately 5mm, ideal for changing wrist sizes due to temperature or activity.
Functionality: More Than Just Telling Time
Beyond its robust construction and legible design, the Rolex Explorer II's primary function is to provide reliable timekeeping and GMT capability. The 24-hour bezel and hand work in conjunction with the independently adjustable 12-hour hand to display a second time zone. This is invaluable for travelers, pilots, or anyone who needs to track time in another location. The 24-hour bezel can also be used as a rudimentary compass when combined with the sun's position. Furthermore, the Explorer II's robust case and 100 meters (330 feet) of water resistance make it suitable for a wide range of activities, from everyday wear to light water sports and adventurous pursuits.
Pros and Cons: Weighing the Explorer II
Like any timepiece, the Rolex Explorer II has its strengths and weaknesses. Understanding these can help you determine if it's the right watch for you.
Pros:
- Robust and Durable: Built to withstand demanding conditions, thanks to its 904L Oystersteel construction, robust case, and reliable movement.
- Excellent Legibility: High-contrast dial, Chromalight lume, and functional hand set ensure readability in all lighting conditions.
- GMT Functionality: True GMT capability is highly practical for travelers and those tracking multiple time zones.
- Iconic Design: Distinctive and recognizable design, balancing sportiness and understated elegance.
- Versatility: Suitable for everyday wear, adventurous activities, and even more formal occasions (especially the black dial version).
- Investment Potential: Rolex watches generally hold their value well, and the Explorer II is no exception, particularly vintage and certain modern references.
- Comfortable Bracelet: Oyster bracelet is known for its comfort and security.
Cons:
- Availability: Demand for Rolex watches often exceeds supply, making the Explorer II difficult to purchase at retail from authorized dealers. Waiting lists can be long.
- Price: Rolex watches are a significant investment. While they hold value, the initial purchase price is substantial.
- Size (for some): The 42mm size of the current reference might be too large for those with smaller wrists, although the slimmer case profile helps.
- Fixed Bezel: While functional, the fixed 24-hour bezel lacks the versatility of a rotating bezel found on dive watches.
- Understated Design (for some): Compared to more flamboyant Rolex models, the Explorer II's design might be considered too understated for those seeking a more attention-grabbing timepiece.
Who is the Rolex Explorer II For?
The Rolex Explorer II appeals to a discerning audience who values functionality, robustness, and understated style. It's an excellent choice for:
- Adventurers and Travelers: The GMT function and robust build make it ideal for those who explore different time zones and environments.
- Rolex Enthusiasts: A must-have for collectors seeking a complete Rolex sports watch collection.
- Those Seeking a Versatile Everyday Watch: Balances sportiness and elegance, suitable for various occasions.
- Individuals Appreciating Tool Watch Heritage: Honors its explorer roots while offering modern refinements.
- Those Seeking Long-Term Value: Rolex's reputation for value retention makes it a considered purchase.
Price and Availability: Navigating the Rolex Market
The retail price for the Rolex Explorer II (Reference 226570) is approximately $9,800 USD (as of late 2023). However, due to high demand and limited supply, purchasing one at retail from an authorized dealer can be challenging. Waiting lists are common, and availability varies significantly.
The secondary market is often the more readily available option, but prices can be significantly higher than retail, especially for newer models in unworn condition. Prices on the grey market fluctuate based on demand and market conditions. Older references, particularly vintage 1655 and early 16550 models, can command substantial premiums due to their rarity and collectibility.
When considering purchasing a Rolex Explorer II, it's crucial to buy from reputable sources to ensure authenticity and avoid counterfeit watches. Authorized dealers are the safest option for retail purchases, while established and reputable grey market dealers can be considered for secondary market acquisitions. Thorough research and due diligence are essential.
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Rolex Explorer II
The Rolex Explorer II is more than just a watch; it's a testament to Rolex's commitment to crafting robust, reliable, and functional timepieces. Its enduring appeal stems from its unique blend of tool watch heritage, understated design, and practical GMT functionality. While it may not be as overtly popular as some of its Rolex brethren, the Explorer II holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts who appreciate its subtle sophistication and genuine capability. Whether you're an adventurer, a traveler, or simply someone who appreciates a finely crafted and versatile timepiece, the Rolex Explorer II deserves serious consideration. It's a watch built for exploration, both literal and metaphorical, and a worthy addition to any serious watch collection.
FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Explorer II
- What is the difference between Rolex Explorer and Explorer II?
- The Explorer is a simpler, time-only watch focused on legibility and robustness. The Explorer II adds a 24-hour bezel, a 24-hour hand, and a date function, offering GMT capability and enhanced functionality for explorers in disorienting environments.
- Is the Rolex Explorer II a good investment?
- Rolex watches, in general, tend to hold their value well, and the Explorer II is no exception. While past performance is not indicative of future results, historically, Explorer II models have appreciated in value, particularly vintage and certain modern references in excellent condition. However, the primary reason to buy a Rolex should be for the enjoyment of owning and wearing a high-quality timepiece, not solely for investment purposes.
- Is the Rolex Explorer II water resistant?
- Yes, the Rolex Explorer II is water resistant to 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for swimming and snorkeling, but not for deep-sea diving.
- How do you use the GMT function on the Rolex Explorer II?
- The 24-hour hand points to the fixed 24-hour bezel to indicate a second time zone. You can set the 24-hour hand to your home time zone, and then adjust the independently adjustable 12-hour hand to your local time zone when traveling. The 24-hour bezel also helps distinguish between AM and PM hours in the second time zone.
- What is the service interval for a Rolex Explorer II?
- Rolex recommends servicing their watches approximately every 10 years, depending on usage and environmental factors. Regular servicing ensures the watch continues to function optimally and maintains its longevity.
- Where can I buy a Rolex Explorer II?
- You can purchase a new Rolex Explorer II from authorized Rolex dealers, although availability may be limited. Alternatively, you can explore reputable grey market dealers or the pre-owned market for potentially faster access, but be sure to verify authenticity and condition.
