In the horological world, certain nicknames resonate deeply, instantly conjuring images of iconic timepieces. Among these, "Root Beer" stands out, indelibly linked to a specific variant of the Rolex GMT-Master II. This moniker, affectionately bestowed upon models featuring a rich brown and black bezel, captures the warm, inviting tones reminiscent of the classic soda. But the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a catchy nickname; it represents a legacy of luxury, functionality, and distinctive style. This article delves into the fascinating world of the "Root Beer" Rolex, exploring its history, design, desirability, and everything you need to know about this coveted timepiece.

Decoding the "Root Beer" Nickname: More Than Just a Soda Reference

The nickname "Root Beer" might seem whimsical, but it perfectly encapsulates the aesthetic essence of these GMT-Master II models. The bi-directional rotating bezel, the defining feature of the GMT-Master series, is rendered in a warm brown and black combination. This color scheme, particularly when paired with the two-tone Rolesor (a combination of Oystersteel and Everose or yellow gold) cases and bracelets often associated with "Root Beers," evokes the rich hues of the popular soft drink. It's a nickname that has stuck, embraced by collectors and enthusiasts alike, adding to the watch's unique charm and recognition.

A Rich History: Tracing the "Root Beer" Lineage Through Generations of GMT-Master

The "Root Beer" story isn't a recent phenomenon. It's deeply rooted in the history of the Rolex GMT-Master, a watch originally designed in collaboration with Pan American Airways for pilots navigating across time zones. The brown bezel first appeared in the late 1960s and early 1970s, marking a departure from the more traditional black and blue bezels. Let's explore the key milestones in the "Root Beer" evolution:

The Vintage Charm of the Original "Root Beer" GMT-Masters (References 1675/3 and 16713)

The earliest "Root Beer" models are highly sought after by vintage Rolex collectors. These primarily fall under the references 1675/3 and later 16713. Reference 1675/3, produced from the late 1960s to the early 1980s, was a 18k yellow gold and stainless steel model. It featured an acrylic crystal, a matte brown "nipple" dial, and the iconic brown and black bezel. The warm tones of the gold combined with the brown bezel created a luxurious and distinctive look that was quite different from the sportier, more tool-watch aesthetic of other GMT-Master variants.

Reference 16713, introduced in the mid-1980s and continuing into the early 2000s, followed in the footsteps of its predecessor. It retained the two-tone Rolesor construction but featured a sapphire crystal for increased scratch resistance and a gloss dial. The bezel insert also evolved slightly over time, but the core "Root Beer" aesthetic remained consistent, solidifying its place in Rolex history.

The Modern "Root Beer" Renaissance: Ref. 126711CHNR

After a period where the "Root Beer" aesthetic was absent from the GMT-Master II lineup, Rolex reintroduced it in 2018 with the reference 126711CHNR. This marked a significant moment for enthusiasts who had long admired the vintage models. The modern "Root Beer" is a testament to Rolex's ability to blend heritage with contemporary watchmaking. This iteration is crafted in Everose Rolesor, combining Oystersteel with Rolex's proprietary 18k Everose gold, known for its exceptional resistance to fading. The bezel is made from Rolex's proprietary ceramic material, Cerachrom, in a brown and black two-tone configuration, offering unparalleled scratch resistance and color stability. This modern "Root Beer" is powered by the cutting-edge Caliber 3285 movement, offering enhanced performance and reliability.

Design and Features: Unpacking the "Root Beer" Rolex Appeal

The "Root Beer" Rolex is more than just its distinctive color scheme. It’s a carefully considered design that balances luxury, functionality, and robustness. Let's break down the key design elements:

The Iconic Brown and Black Cerachrom Bezel: A Masterpiece of Engineering and Aesthetics

The bi-directional rotating bezel with its 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert is arguably the most striking feature of the modern "Root Beer." Cerachrom, Rolex's patented ceramic, is virtually scratchproof, highly resistant to corrosion, and impervious to fading from UV rays. The brown and black colors are achieved through a complex and proprietary process. The engraved numerals and graduations are then filled with gold using a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) process, ensuring long-lasting legibility and a luxurious finish. This bezel allows the wearer to track a second time zone in conjunction with the dedicated 24-hour hand, a core function of the GMT-Master.

The Case and Bracelet: Everose Rolesor and Oyster Comfort

The 40mm Oyster case, a hallmark of Rolex durability, is crafted in Everose Rolesor, a harmonious blend of Oystersteel and 18k Everose gold. Oystersteel provides robustness and corrosion resistance, while Everose gold adds a touch of warmth and luxury. The case is water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet), suitable for everyday wear and even swimming. The Oyster bracelet, also in Everose Rolesor, is renowned for its comfort and security. It features solid links and the Oysterclasp with the Easylink comfort extension system, allowing for quick adjustments to the bracelet length for optimal fit in varying conditions.

The Dial and Hands: Legibility and Refined Details

The dial of the "Root Beer" Rolex is designed for optimal legibility. It features applied hour markers in 18k gold, filled with Chromalight luminescent material, providing excellent visibility in low-light conditions. The Mercedes hands, another Rolex signature, are also crafted from gold and filled with Chromalight. The date window at 3 o'clock is magnified by the Cyclops lens, a Rolex innovation that enhances readability. The dial itself is typically black, providing a strong contrast against the gold markers and hands, further enhancing legibility.

The Movement: Caliber 3285 - Precision and Performance

Powering the modern "Root Beer" is the Rolex Caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement is at the forefront of watchmaking technology, boasting a Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency and a Parachrom hairspring for greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations. The Caliber 3285 offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and is a Superlative Chronometer, certified by COSC and Rolex after casing, ensuring exceptional precision and reliability.

Why the "Root Beer" Rolex Remains Highly Desirable

The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts for several compelling reasons:

A Unique and Warm Aesthetic

In a world often dominated by steel sports watches, the "Root Beer" stands out with its warm and inviting color palette. The combination of brown, black, and Everose gold (or yellow gold in vintage models) offers a sophisticated and less overtly sporty aesthetic compared to some other GMT-Master variants. It's a watch that transitions seamlessly from casual to formal settings, making it incredibly versatile.

A Nod to Rolex Heritage

The "Root Beer" is not a new creation; it's a revival of a beloved classic. Its lineage connects it to the rich history of the GMT-Master, a watch that has accompanied explorers, pilots, and discerning individuals for decades. Owning a "Root Beer" is owning a piece of Rolex history, a tangible link to the brand's legacy of innovation and quality.

Investment Potential and Rarity

Rolex watches, in general, are known for their strong value retention and appreciation, and the "Root Beer" is no exception. Due to its desirability and relatively limited production compared to some other Rolex models, the "Root Beer" often commands a premium on the secondary market. Acquiring one at retail price from an Authorized Dealer can be challenging, further contributing to its desirability and investment potential.

Versatility and Wearability

Despite its luxurious materials and distinctive colors, the "Root Beer" is surprisingly versatile. It can be dressed up with formal attire or dressed down with casual wear. Its 40mm case size is considered universally wearable, fitting comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes. It’s a watch that can be worn daily, accompanying its owner on all adventures, big and small.

Buying a Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer": Navigating the Market

Acquiring a "Root Beer" Rolex requires understanding the current market dynamics. Here's what you need to consider:

Authorized Dealers (ADs) vs. Grey Market

The ideal route is to purchase a "Root Beer" from an Authorized Rolex Dealer. This ensures authenticity and comes with the manufacturer's warranty. However, due to high demand and Rolex's production constraints, waitlists for popular models like the "Root Beer" can be long, sometimes stretching for years. The grey market offers immediate availability but typically at prices significantly above retail. When purchasing from the grey market, it's crucial to choose reputable dealers and thoroughly verify the watch's authenticity and condition.

Pricing and Availability

The retail price of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" (ref. 126711CHNR) is subject to change and varies by region. It's best to check with your local Authorized Dealer for the most accurate current pricing. On the grey market, prices can fluctuate significantly based on demand and market conditions, often commanding a substantial premium over retail. Availability is generally scarce at ADs, requiring patience and potentially a long wait. Grey market availability is higher but at the aforementioned premium.

Authenticity and Condition (Especially for Vintage Models)

For vintage "Root Beer" models (references 1675/3 and 16713), authenticity and condition are paramount. Purchase from reputable vintage watch dealers or auction houses with proven track records. Thoroughly inspect the watch, including the dial, bezel, case, and movement, and request documentation and provenance if available. Consider having the watch authenticated by a Rolex specialist before finalizing the purchase.

Caring for Your "Root Beer" Rolex: Preserving its Beauty and Value

To ensure your "Root Beer" Rolex retains its beauty and value for years to come, proper care is essential:

  • Regular Cleaning: Gently clean your watch with a soft cloth and lukewarm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry carefully. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
  • Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends regular servicing by an Authorized Rolex Service Center, typically every 5-10 years, depending on usage. This ensures the movement remains in optimal condition and maintains its accuracy and longevity.
  • Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe and dry place, ideally in its original Rolex box or a watch case. This protects it from dust, scratches, and extreme temperatures.
  • Avoid Extreme Conditions: While Rolex watches are robust, avoid exposing your "Root Beer" to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, or harsh impacts, which could potentially damage the movement or the watch's components.

Conclusion: The "Root Beer" Rolex - A Timeless Icon

The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a watch; it's a statement of style, a testament to horological excellence, and a nod to Rolex's rich heritage. Its distinctive "Root Beer" aesthetic, combined with Rolex's legendary quality and functionality, makes it a highly coveted timepiece for collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. Whether you are drawn to the vintage charm of the early models or the modern sophistication of the reference 126711CHNR, the "Root Beer" Rolex offers a unique and enduring appeal that transcends fleeting trends, solidifying its place as a true icon in the world of luxury watches.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the "Root Beer" Rolex

What exactly does "Root Beer" mean in the context of Rolex watches?

The term "Root Beer" refers to the brown and black bezel color combination found on certain Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II models. The nickname is derived from the resemblance of these colors to the popular soft drink, Root Beer.

What are the different Rolex "Root Beer" references?

Key "Root Beer" Rolex references include:

  • Vintage: 1675/3 (Yellow Gold & Steel), 16713 (Yellow Gold & Steel)
  • Modern: 126711CHNR (Everose Gold & Steel)

Is the "Root Beer" Rolex a good investment?

Rolex watches, including the "Root Beer" models, generally hold their value well and often appreciate over time, particularly highly sought-after models in excellent condition. However, watch investments should be approached with caution, and past performance is not indicative of future results. Focus on buying a watch you love and enjoy wearing.

How much does a "Root Beer" Rolex cost?

Retail prices for current production models like the 126711CHNR vary by region. Contact an Authorized Rolex Dealer for the most accurate pricing. Grey market prices are typically significantly higher than retail, influenced by demand and availability. Vintage "Root Beer" prices vary greatly depending on reference, condition, and provenance.

Where can I buy a "Root Beer" Rolex?

You can attempt to purchase a new "Root Beer" Rolex from an Authorized Rolex Dealer, but waitlists are common. Alternatively, you can explore reputable grey market dealers or vintage watch specialists for immediate availability, often at a premium. For vintage models, auction houses and specialized vintage watch retailers are also options.

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