The Rolex Submariner. Just the name evokes images of deep-sea exploration, iconic design, and unparalleled horological craftsmanship. While the all-stainless steel Submariner is arguably the most recognizable, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, often referred to as the Rolesor Submariner, presents a compelling alternative. It elevates the inherent robustness of the Submariner with a touch of luxurious warmth, creating a timepiece that is both sporty and sophisticated. This article delves deep into the world of the two-tone Submariner, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it continues to be a sought-after watch for discerning collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Understanding the Rolex Submariner Legacy

Before we dive into the specifics of the two-tone model, it's essential to understand the foundational heritage of the Rolex Submariner. Launched in 1953, the Submariner wasn't just a watch; it was a pioneering tool watch designed for professional divers. Its groundbreaking water resistance, robust construction, and highly legible dial set a new standard for dive watches. Over the decades, the Submariner has evolved, incorporating advancements in materials, movements, and design, but always retaining its core DNA as a reliable and functional timepiece. This legacy of innovation and dependability forms the bedrock upon which the two-tone Submariner is built.

What Defines a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

The term "two-tone" in watchmaking refers to the combination of two different metals in the watch's construction, most commonly stainless steel and gold. Rolex, with its characteristic precision, uses the term "Rolesor" to describe its two-tone watches. A Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, therefore, meticulously blends Rolex's proprietary Oystersteel with either yellow gold or Everose gold (Rolex's patented rose gold alloy).

Typically, the Rolesor treatment on a Submariner manifests in the following components:

  • Bezel: Often, the bezel is crafted from solid gold, providing a striking contrast against the Oystersteel case. Ceramic bezels with gold inlays are also common in modern models.
  • Crown: The winding crown, a crucial component for water resistance, is also usually made of gold.
  • Center Bracelet Links: The most visually prominent element of the two-tone Submariner is the bracelet. The center links are crafted from solid gold, running down the center of the Oystersteel bracelet, creating a distinctive and luxurious aesthetic.

This strategic application of gold not only enhances the visual appeal but also adds a tangible sense of luxury and weight to the watch without sacrificing the robustness and corrosion resistance of the Oystersteel.

The Evolution of the Two-Tone Submariner: A Historical Perspective

While the all-steel Submariner debuted in the 1950s, the two-tone variant emerged later, catering to a growing demand for a more luxurious yet still functional dive watch. The introduction of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone marked a significant step in the model's evolution, transitioning it from a purely utilitarian tool to a more versatile timepiece suitable for both professional use and everyday wear.

Key milestones in the two-tone Submariner's history include:

  • Early Two-Tone Models (Reference 1680/3): While technically not the first two-tone Submariner (some earlier models with gold bezels existed in limited numbers), the reference 1680/3, introduced in the late 1960s, is widely considered the first commercially successful and readily available two-tone Submariner. It featured a yellow gold bezel and center bracelet links, laying the foundation for the Rolesor Submariner aesthetic we know today.
  • Sapphire Crystal and Caliber Upgrades (Reference 16613): The introduction of the reference 16613 in the late 1980s brought significant advancements, including a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the upgraded Caliber 3135 movement. This model solidified the two-tone Submariner's position as a modern luxury sports watch.
  • Ceramic Bezel and "Super Case" (Reference 116613): The reference 116613, launched in the late 2000s, marked another leap forward with the introduction of Rolex's Cerachrom ceramic bezel, which is virtually scratchproof and fade-resistant. It also featured the "Super Case," a more substantial and robust case design, further enhancing the watch's presence on the wrist.
  • Current Generation (Reference 126613): The latest generation, reference 126613, powered by the Caliber 3235 movement, continues to refine the two-tone Submariner. This movement offers improved efficiency, power reserve, and shock resistance, showcasing Rolex's ongoing commitment to innovation. Everose gold two-tone models have also become increasingly popular in recent years.

The Enduring Appeal of the Two-Tone Submariner: Why Choose Rolesor?

The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone holds a unique appeal that sets it apart from its all-steel counterpart. Here's why it continues to captivate watch enthusiasts:

  • Versatility and Style: The combination of steel and gold offers a remarkable balance of sportiness and elegance. It's a watch that can seamlessly transition from a dive boat to a boardroom, complementing both casual and formal attire. The gold elements add a touch of sophistication without being overly ostentatious.
  • A Touch of Luxury Without Full Gold Price Tag: While full gold Rolex watches command a significant premium, the two-tone models offer a taste of luxury at a more accessible price point. You get the prestige and warmth of gold without the extreme investment of a solid gold watch.
  • Visual Interest and Contrast: The interplay of the cool, brushed Oystersteel and the warm, polished gold creates a visually striking contrast. This two-tone aesthetic adds depth and character to the Submariner's iconic design, making it stand out on the wrist.
  • Investment Potential: Rolex watches, in general, are known for their strong resale value, and the two-tone Submariner is no exception. Well-maintained models, particularly vintage and discontinued references, can appreciate in value over time, making them not just a pleasure to wear but also a potentially sound investment.
  • Statement Piece: The two-tone Submariner makes a subtle yet confident statement. It signals an appreciation for quality, craftsmanship, and timeless style without being overly flashy. It's a watch that speaks volumes about its wearer's taste and discernment.

Choosing Your Perfect Two-Tone Submariner: Factors to Consider

When considering a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, several factors come into play:

  • Yellow Gold vs. Everose Gold: Yellow gold offers a classic and traditional look, while Everose gold provides a more modern and subtle warmth. Personal preference and skin tone can influence this choice.
  • Dial Color: Two-tone Submariners are available with various dial colors, including black, blue, and sunburst blue. Black dials offer maximum versatility, while blue dials add a touch of vibrancy and nautical flair.
  • New vs. Pre-Owned: Purchasing new from an authorized dealer ensures you get the latest model with a warranty. However, the pre-owned market offers a wider selection of vintage and discontinued models, potentially at a more attractive price point. Thorough research and buying from reputable sources are crucial when considering pre-owned watches.
  • Condition and Authenticity: Especially when buying pre-owned, carefully assess the watch's condition and verify its authenticity. Look for original boxes, papers, and service history if available. Consider having the watch authenticated by a Rolex specialist.
  • Budget: Two-tone Submariners are a significant investment. Establish your budget beforehand and research current market prices for the models you are interested in.

Maintaining Your Two-Tone Submariner: Ensuring Longevity

Like any fine timepiece, a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone requires proper care to maintain its beauty and functionality. Here are some essential maintenance tips:

  • Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and mild soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry gently.
  • Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends professional servicing every 5-10 years, depending on usage. This ensures the movement is properly lubricated and all components are functioning correctly.
  • Avoid Harsh Chemicals and Extreme Temperatures: Protect your watch from harsh chemicals, extreme temperatures, and strong magnetic fields.
  • Proper Storage: Store your watch in a safe and dry place when not in use, preferably in its original box or a watch winder.

Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone

The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of enduring style, robust functionality, and horological excellence. It masterfully blends the iconic design and ruggedness of the Submariner with the luxurious warmth of gold, creating a timepiece that is both versatile and captivating. Whether you are a seasoned collector, a diving enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, the two-tone Submariner offers a compelling proposition. It's a watch that transcends trends and generations, a true testament to Rolex's unwavering commitment to quality and innovation. Investing in a Rolesor Submariner is not just acquiring a timepiece; it's acquiring a piece of horological history and a legacy that will continue to appreciate for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone

Q: What is "Rolesor" in Rolex watches?

A: "Rolesor" is Rolex's term for two-tone watches, specifically referring to the combination of Oystersteel and gold (either yellow, white, or Everose gold). It signifies Rolex's meticulous blending of these two materials for both aesthetic appeal and functional robustness.

Q: Is the gold on a two-tone Submariner solid gold or gold-plated?

A: The gold components on a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone are always solid gold, not gold-plated. Rolex uses 18k yellow gold or 18k Everose gold for its Rolesor models, ensuring lasting value and quality.

Q: Is a two-tone Submariner a good investment?

A: Rolex watches, including two-tone Submariners, generally hold their value well and can appreciate over time, especially well-maintained and sought-after models. However, watch investment is not guaranteed and depends on market conditions, model rarity, and condition. It's always recommended to purchase a watch because you appreciate and enjoy it first and foremost.

Q: How water-resistant is a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

A: Modern Rolex Submariner Two-Tone models are water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet). This makes them suitable for professional diving and all water sports. It's crucial to ensure the crown is properly screwed down to maintain water resistance.

Q: How often should I service my Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

A: Rolex recommends servicing your watch approximately every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Regular servicing by a Rolex-certified technician ensures the movement remains in optimal condition and maintains its accuracy and longevity.

Q: Where can I buy a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

A: You can purchase a new Rolex Submariner Two-Tone from authorized Rolex dealers. For pre-owned models, reputable watch dealers, online marketplaces specializing in luxury watches, and auction houses are options. Always ensure you are buying from a trusted source and verify authenticity.

Q: What is the price range for a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

A: The price of a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone varies depending on the model, materials (yellow gold or Everose gold), condition (new or pre-owned), and market demand. New models typically start upwards of $15,000 USD, while pre-owned prices can fluctuate based on reference and condition. It's best to check with authorized dealers or reputable pre-owned sellers for current pricing.

Q: Can I wear a two-tone Submariner every day?

A: Yes, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is designed for everyday wear. Its robust construction, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and comfortable bracelet make it suitable for daily use. Its versatile style also allows it to complement a wide range of outfits and occasions.

Q: What are some popular Rolex Submariner Two-Tone models?

A: Popular Rolex Submariner Two-Tone models include the reference 16613 (vintage), 116613 (ceramic bezel), and the current 126613 (latest generation). Each reference offers subtle variations in design and features, catering to different preferences.

Q: How can I spot a fake Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

A: Spotting a fake Rolex requires careful examination. Look for telltale signs such as inconsistencies in finishing, misaligned text, a ticking sound (Rolexes have smooth sweeping seconds hands), and a lightweight feel (Rolexes are substantial). Purchase from authorized dealers or reputable sellers and consider professional authentication if unsure.

References and Sources

While specific URLs are dynamic and can change, authoritative sources for Rolex information include:

  • Rolex Official Website (for product specifications and history)
  • Hodinkee (for watch news, reviews, and in-depth articles)
  • Fratello Watches (for watch reviews and industry insights)
  • WatchTime (for watch reviews and features)
  • Reputable watch dealer websites (e.g., Crown & Caliber, Bob's Watches) for market data and pre-owned information.
  • Books on Rolex history and watch collecting.

Please note that specific facts and historical details mentioned in this article are based on widely available knowledge about Rolex watches and their history. For the most up-to-date and precise information, always refer to the official Rolex website and reputable watch publications.

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