For over half a century, the Rolex Explorer II has stood as a beacon of robustness, reliability, and adventure. Born from the legacy of the original Explorer, this iconic timepiece has carved its own distinct path, becoming a favorite among adventurers, scientists, and watch enthusiasts alike. In this comprehensive review, we delve deep into the Rolex Explorer II, exploring its history, design, features, wearability, and everything you need to know before considering adding this legendary watch to your collection. Whether you're a seasoned Rolex collector or a newcomer to the world of luxury watches, this in-depth analysis will provide you with valuable insights into what makes the Explorer II a truly exceptional timepiece.
A Legacy of Exploration: Tracing the Roots of the Explorer II
To truly appreciate the Explorer II, it's essential to understand its lineage. The story begins with the original Rolex Explorer, launched in 1953, celebrating the successful ascent of Mount Everest. The Explorer was designed as a rugged and legible watch for explorers pushing the boundaries of human endurance. Building upon this foundation, Rolex introduced the Explorer II in 1971 with the reference 1655. This marked a significant evolution, adding a crucial 24-hour fixed bezel and an additional 24-hour hand – features specifically designed for explorers venturing into environments where distinguishing day from night becomes challenging, such as caves or polar regions.
Over the decades, the Explorer II has undergone several iterations, each refining and enhancing its functionality and design. Key milestones include:
- Reference 1655 (1971-1984): The original "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") with its distinctive orange 24-hour hand and fixed bezel. Known for its bold and tool-like aesthetic.
- Reference 16550 (1985-1989): Introduced the Caliber 3085 movement, independent 24-hour hand setting, and a sapphire crystal. Also saw the option of a white dial, a departure from the original black.
- Reference 16570 (1989-2011): A long-running and highly popular reference. Featured the Caliber 3185 (later 3186) movement, refined case and bracelet, and maintained both black and white dial options.
- Reference 216570 (2011-2021): Marked a significant size increase to 42mm, a maxi-case design, and the Caliber 3187 movement. The orange 24-hour hand was reintroduced, paying homage to the original 1655.
- Reference 226570 (2021-Present): The current generation. Features subtle refinements to the case and bracelet, the updated Caliber 3285 movement, and maintains the 42mm size.
Design and Features: A Detailed Examination of the Explorer II
The Rolex Explorer II is instantly recognizable for its robust and functional design. It's a watch built for purpose, prioritizing legibility, durability, and reliability above all else. Let's break down the key design elements:
The Case and Bezel: Ruggedness Redefined
Crafted from Rolex's proprietary Oystersteel (904L stainless steel), the Explorer II's case is built to withstand harsh conditions. The current 226570 model features a 42mm diameter, a size that strikes a balance between wrist presence and wearability. The case is meticulously finished with polished sides and a brushed top, creating a sophisticated yet tool-like aesthetic. The fixed 24-hour bezel, also made of Oystersteel, is a defining feature. Its engraved numerals are deeply set and filled with black lacquer, ensuring excellent legibility in all lighting conditions. This bezel, in conjunction with the 24-hour hand, allows the wearer to track a second time zone or use it as a day/night indicator.
The Dial and Hands: Legibility at its Core
Rolex is renowned for its dial legibility, and the Explorer II is no exception. Available in both black and white "polar" dial options, both versions prioritize clarity. The black dial provides a classic and versatile look, while the white dial offers a striking and highly legible option, especially popular for its unique aesthetic. Large, applied hour markers and hands, filled with Rolex's long-lasting Chromalight luminescent material, provide exceptional nighttime visibility. The iconic Mercedes hour hand, baton minute hand, and the distinct arrow-tipped 24-hour hand ensure instant time reading. The cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o'clock enhances magnification for easy date reading.
The Bracelet and Clasp: Comfort and Security
The Explorer II features the robust Oyster bracelet, a hallmark of Rolex sports watches. Made from Oystersteel, the bracelet is known for its durability and comfort. The three-piece link design is both sporty and elegant, fitting seamlessly with the overall aesthetic of the watch. The bracelet features a brushed finish, complementing the case. The Oysterlock safety clasp, with its folding design and safety catch, provides secure closure and prevents accidental opening. The Easylink comfort extension system allows for easy adjustment of the bracelet length by approximately 5mm, perfect for adapting to changing wrist sizes due to temperature or activity.
The Movement: Caliber 3285 - Precision and Performance
Powering the current Rolex Explorer II is the Caliber 3285, a cutting-edge automatic movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement is at the forefront of watchmaking technology, offering exceptional performance and reliability. Key features of the Caliber 3285 include:
- Chronergy Escapement: Optimized for energy efficiency and high reliability.
- Parachrom Hairspring: Paramagnetic and highly resistant to shocks and temperature variations.
- Improved Gear Train: Enhances energy efficiency and power reserve.
- 70-Hour Power Reserve: Provides ample autonomy, allowing you to take the watch off on Friday evening and pick it up on Monday morning still running.
- Superlative Chronometer Certification: Ensures exceptional precision, exceeding COSC standards. Rolex guarantees an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing.
On the Wrist: Wearability and Versatility of the Explorer II
The Rolex Explorer II is designed to be a daily companion, and its wearability reflects this. While the 42mm case size might seem large on paper, it wears comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes. The Oyster bracelet is incredibly comfortable, and the Easylink extension system ensures a perfect fit. The watch sits securely on the wrist without feeling bulky or cumbersome. The balance of weight and dimensions makes it suitable for all-day wear, whether you're in the office, exploring the outdoors, or traveling the globe.
Versatility is another key strength of the Explorer II. While it's undeniably a sports watch, its refined design allows it to transition seamlessly between casual and semi-formal settings. The stainless steel construction and understated elegance make it appropriate for a wide range of occasions. Whether you pair it with jeans and a t-shirt or a business suit, the Explorer II exudes a sense of understated confidence and capability.
Pros and Cons: Weighing the Explorer II
Like any watch, the Rolex Explorer II has its strengths and weaknesses. Let's consider the pros and cons:
Pros:
- Exceptional Durability and Robustness: Built to withstand demanding environments.
- Excellent Legibility: Clear dial and luminous markers ensure readability in all conditions.
- High-Performance Movement: Caliber 3285 offers exceptional accuracy, reliability, and power reserve.
- Versatile Design: Suitable for various occasions, from casual to semi-formal.
- Comfortable to Wear: Oyster bracelet and Easylink system ensure a comfortable fit.
- Strong Brand Recognition and Resale Value: Rolex watches hold their value exceptionally well.
- GMT Functionality: Useful for travelers and those who need to track a second time zone.
Cons:
- Price: Rolex watches are a significant investment.
- Availability: Demand often exceeds supply, leading to waiting lists at authorized dealers.
- Fixed Bezel: While functional for its intended purpose, the fixed bezel limits its versatility compared to a rotating bezel for timing events.
- Size (for some): The 42mm size might be too large for those with smaller wrists.
- Polarizing Design (potentially): While iconic, the Explorer II's design might not appeal to everyone's taste.
Who is the Rolex Explorer II For?
The Rolex Explorer II appeals to a wide range of watch enthusiasts. It's an excellent choice for:
- Adventurers and Outdoor Enthusiasts: Its robust construction and 24-hour functionality make it ideal for exploration and outdoor activities.
- Travelers: The GMT function is invaluable for tracking multiple time zones.
- Rolex Collectors: The Explorer II is a significant model in Rolex's history and a desirable addition to any collection.
- Those Seeking a Durable and Reliable Daily Wearer: Its robustness and versatility make it an excellent everyday watch.
- Individuals Appreciating Understated Luxury: The Explorer II is not flashy but exudes quality and capability.
Alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II
While the Explorer II is a fantastic watch, there are alternatives to consider depending on your priorities and budget:
- Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT: Offers similar GMT functionality and robustness at a slightly lower price point.
- Tudor Black Bay Pro: A more affordable alternative with a vintage-inspired design and GMT function.
- Grand Seiko GMT (e.g., SBGE255): Known for exceptional finishing and Spring Drive movement, offering a different aesthetic and technology.
- Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45: A larger and more tool-focused GMT watch with a distinct Breitling style.
Conclusion: The Rolex Explorer II - A Timeless Tool of Exploration
The Rolex Explorer II is more than just a luxury watch; it's a tool watch with a rich heritage and a proven track record of reliability and performance. It embodies the spirit of exploration and adventure, offering robust construction, exceptional legibility, and practical functionality. While the price and availability may be considerations, the Explorer II represents a significant investment in a timepiece that will last a lifetime and hold its value. Whether you're an adventurer, a traveler, or simply someone who appreciates a well-engineered and versatile watch, the Rolex Explorer II deserves serious consideration. It's a true icon in the world of horology, and a testament to Rolex's commitment to quality and innovation. The Explorer II is not just a watch; it's a statement of capability and a symbol of exploration, ready to accompany you on any journey, big or small.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is the price of a Rolex Explorer II?
A: The retail price of the Rolex Explorer II (reference 226570) varies slightly depending on the region, but it is generally in the range of $9,800 - $10,500 USD. However, due to high demand, finding one at retail price from an authorized dealer can be challenging, and you may encounter market prices above retail on the secondary market.
Q: What is the difference between the Rolex Explorer and Explorer II?
A: The original Rolex Explorer is a time-only watch, focusing on simplicity and robustness. The Explorer II adds a 24-hour fixed bezel and a 24-hour hand, providing GMT functionality and a day/night indicator. The Explorer II is also typically larger in size and has a more tool-like aesthetic compared to the more minimalist Explorer.
Q: Is the Rolex Explorer II a good investment?
A: Rolex watches, in general, are known to hold their value well, and the Explorer II is no exception. While watch investments are not guaranteed, the Explorer II has historically been a strong performer in the pre-owned market. However, the primary reason to buy a Rolex should be for the enjoyment of owning and wearing a high-quality timepiece, not solely as an investment.
Q: What is the power reserve of the Rolex Explorer II?
A: The Rolex Explorer II (reference 226570) with the Caliber 3285 movement has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Q: Is the Rolex Explorer II waterproof?
A: Yes, the Rolex Explorer II is waterproof to 100 meters (330 feet). It is suitable for swimming and snorkeling but not recommended for deep-sea diving. Rolex Oyster cases are renowned for their water resistance.
Q: What are the dial color options for the Rolex Explorer II?
A: The Rolex Explorer II is currently available with two dial color options: black and white ("polar").
Q: How often does a Rolex Explorer II need servicing?
A: Rolex recommends servicing your watch approximately every 10 years, depending on usage and environmental conditions. Regular servicing ensures optimal performance and longevity of the movement.
