The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a luxury watch; it's a statement. A symbol of adventure, sophistication, and horological excellence, this iconic timepiece has captivated watch enthusiasts and collectors for decades. From its distinctive warm-toned bezel to its robust functionality, the "Root Beer" holds a unique place in the pantheon of Rolex sports watches. This comprehensive guide delves deep into the world of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," exploring its rich history, design evolution, modern iterations, and why it remains a highly sought-after watch today.
The Genesis of the "Root Beer" Nickname and the GMT-Master Legacy
To understand the allure of the "Root Beer," we must first appreciate the lineage of the Rolex GMT-Master. Born in the jet age, the original GMT-Master (reference 6542) was launched in 1955 as a tool watch for Pan American Airways pilots navigating across multiple time zones. Its key innovation was the 24-hour hand and rotating bezel, allowing pilots to simultaneously track two time zones – local time and Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), now Coordinated Universal Time (UTC).
The "Root Beer" nickname emerged later, specifically associated with the two-tone (stainless steel and gold) models of the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II. While Rolex officially refers to the bezel colors as brown and black, or brown and gold, the warm, earthy tones of the bezel, particularly when paired with gold accents, evoked the image of the popular American soda, root beer. This catchy and memorable nickname stuck, becoming synonymous with these specific GMT-Master configurations.
Early "Root Beer" Models: Paving the Way for an Icon
The first "Root Beer" GMT-Masters appeared in the late 1960s and early 1970s, primarily in the reference 1675/3. This model featured a brown and gold bezel insert, a brown dial, and was crafted in stainless steel and yellow gold. These vintage "Root Beer" models are highly prized by collectors today, representing the genesis of this beloved aesthetic.
Key features of these early "Root Beers" included:
- Acrylic Crystal: Characteristic of vintage Rolex watches, providing a warm, domed appearance.
- Aluminum Bezel Insert: Susceptible to fading and wear over time, contributing to the unique patina seen in vintage examples.
- Nipple Dial Markers: Gold applied markers with tritium luminous plots, adding to the vintage charm.
- Caliber 1575 Movement: A robust and reliable movement that powered these early GMT-Master models.
The reference 1675/8, a full 18k yellow gold "Root Beer," also emerged during this era, representing an even more luxurious and prestigious iteration of the design. These solid gold models are rarer and command a premium in the vintage market.
The GMT-Master II Era and the Evolution of the "Root Beer"
In the early 1980s, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II, a significant upgrade that allowed for independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand. This meant the wearer could track a third time zone by rotating the bezel, significantly enhancing the watch's functionality for travelers. The "Root Beer" aesthetic continued to be offered in the GMT-Master II line.
Reference 16713, a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold GMT-Master II, became a prominent "Root Beer" iteration. It retained the warm bezel tones but incorporated the advancements of the GMT-Master II movement (caliber 3085 and later 3185/3186). This reference further solidified the "Root Beer" as a staple within the GMT-Master collection.
Modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II: References 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR
The modern era of the "Root Beer" truly began with the introduction of references 126711CHNR (Rolesor Everose) and 126715CHNR (Everose gold) in 2018. These models marked a significant leap forward in technology and materials, while staying true to the beloved "Root Beer" spirit.
Key features of the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II references:
- Cerachrom Bezel Insert: A major upgrade from aluminum, the Cerachrom bezel is virtually scratch-proof, fade-resistant, and incredibly durable. The bi-directional rotating bezel is made of brown and black ceramic, offering a sophisticated and contemporary take on the "Root Beer" color scheme.
- Everose Gold: Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy, Everose gold, is known for its exceptional resistance to fading and maintaining its warm hue over time. It provides a richer and more luxurious tone compared to traditional yellow gold.
- Oystersteel: Rolex's 904L stainless steel, referred to as Oystersteel, is highly resistant to corrosion and offers exceptional durability and luster.
- Maxi Case and Dial: Slightly larger and more robust case design with broader lugs and a more substantial presence on the wrist. Maxi dial with larger hour markers and hands for improved legibility.
- Sapphire Crystal: Scratch-resistant and highly transparent, providing excellent clarity and protection for the dial.
- Cyclops Lens: Magnifies the date aperture at 3 o'clock for enhanced readability, a signature Rolex feature.
- Jubilee Bracelet: The modern "Root Beer" is exclusively offered on the comfortable and elegant five-link Jubilee bracelet, crafted in either Rolesor Everose (126711CHNR) or solid Everose gold (126715CHNR).
- Caliber 3285 Movement: A cutting-edge, in-house developed and manufactured movement. The Caliber 3285 boasts improved efficiency, precision, and a 70-hour power reserve. It features the Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency and Paraflex shock absorbers for superior resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
The introduction of these modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models was met with immense enthusiasm, further cementing the "Root Beer's" position as a highly desirable and contemporary luxury timepiece. The combination of vintage-inspired aesthetics with cutting-edge Rolex technology makes these references incredibly appealing to both seasoned collectors and new Rolex enthusiasts.
Why the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is So Desirable
The enduring appeal of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" can be attributed to a confluence of factors:
- Unique and Versatile Aesthetics: The warm tones of the "Root Beer" bezel, especially when paired with Everose gold, offer a distinctive and sophisticated look that stands out from more conventional stainless steel sports watches. It's versatile enough to be dressed up or down, making it suitable for various occasions.
- Iconic Nickname and Heritage: The "Root Beer" nickname itself adds a layer of charm and recognition. It's a watch with a story and a recognizable identity within the broader Rolex universe. Its connection to the golden age of travel and the GMT-Master legacy further enhances its appeal.
- Luxury and Craftsmanship: As a Rolex, the "Root Beer" embodies exceptional quality, precision, and craftsmanship. The use of premium materials like Everose gold, Oystersteel, and Cerachrom, combined with Rolex's meticulous manufacturing processes, ensures a timepiece of enduring value and reliability.
- Investment Potential: Rolex sports watches, particularly GMT-Master models, have historically held and often increased in value over time. The "Root Beer," especially in its modern Everose gold iterations, is considered a highly desirable and potentially appreciating asset in the luxury watch market.
- Celebrity Endorsement and Cultural Significance: The "Root Beer" has been spotted on the wrists of numerous celebrities and influential figures over the years, further contributing to its desirability and cultural cachet. Its presence in popular culture reinforces its status as a symbol of success and refined taste.
- Modern Technological Advancements: The modern "Root Beer" references benefit from Rolex's latest innovations, including the Cerachrom bezel, Everose gold, and the Caliber 3285 movement. These advancements enhance the watch's durability, performance, and longevity, making it a truly modern luxury tool watch.
Buying and Collecting a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II
Acquiring a Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," particularly a modern reference, can be challenging due to high demand and limited availability at authorized dealers (ADs). Here's what to consider when buying and collecting:
- Authorized Dealers (ADs): Purchasing from an AD is the ideal route to ensure authenticity and receive the watch at retail price. However, waitlists for popular Rolex models like the "Root Beer" can be extensive. Building a relationship with an AD may improve your chances.
- The Grey Market: The grey market offers immediate availability but typically at prices above retail. Reputable grey market dealers can provide authentic watches, but thorough due diligence is crucial. Verify the dealer's reputation, check for original box and papers, and consider professional authentication.
- Vintage vs. Modern: Decide whether you prefer a vintage "Root Beer" with its classic charm and patina or a modern reference with its advanced technology and pristine condition. Vintage models require careful inspection for condition and authenticity.
- Budget: "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models range in price depending on reference, materials, and condition. Modern references in Everose gold command a significant premium. Set a realistic budget and be prepared for potential price fluctuations in the market.
- Authentication: Regardless of where you purchase, always prioritize authentication. For vintage models, consider consulting with a Rolex specialist. For modern watches, verify the serial number and ensure all accompanying documentation is present and authentic.
Caring for Your Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II
Proper care will ensure your Rolex "Root Beer" remains in excellent condition for generations:
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft, damp cloth and mild soapy water. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends professional servicing every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Servicing ensures the movement remains properly lubricated and functioning optimally.
- Avoid Extreme Conditions: While Rolex watches are robust, avoid exposing your "Root Beer" to extreme temperatures, shocks, or strong magnetic fields.
- Proper Storage: Store your watch in a safe, dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch winder when not being worn.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the "Root Beer"
The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a watch; it's a testament to Rolex's enduring innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless design. From its vintage origins to its modern iterations, the "Root Beer" has consistently captured the hearts of watch enthusiasts worldwide. Its unique aesthetic, robust functionality, and prestigious heritage make it a true icon of horology. Whether you're a seasoned collector or just beginning your watch journey, the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II represents a pinnacle of luxury, style, and adventure, destined to remain a coveted timepiece for generations to come.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the "Root Beer" nickname for Rolex watches?
The "Root Beer" nickname refers to specific two-tone (stainless steel and gold, or stainless steel and Everose gold) models of the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II with bezels in warm brown and black or brown and gold tones. The colors are reminiscent of the popular root beer soda.
What are the current "Root Beer" GMT-Master II references?
The current "Root Beer" GMT-Master II references are 126711CHNR (Rolesor Everose - Oystersteel and Everose gold) and 126715CHNR (Everose gold).
Is the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II a good investment?
Rolex sports watches, including the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, are generally considered good investments and often hold or increase in value over time, especially limited production or highly sought-after models. However, watch investment is not guaranteed and depends on market conditions and specific models.
What is the price of a Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II?
Retail prices for modern "Root Beer" references are set by Rolex, but availability at retail is limited. Grey market prices typically exceed retail and can vary depending on demand and condition. Vintage "Root Beer" prices depend on reference, condition, and market trends.
What is the bracelet on the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II?
The modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II (references 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR) is exclusively offered on the Jubilee bracelet in Rolesor Everose or Everose gold, respectively.
