The Rolex Submariner. Even for those with a passing interest in horology, the name evokes images of rugged elegance, deep-sea exploration, and timeless style. Among the pantheon of Submariner variations, one stands out for its warm, distinctive hues and captivating nickname: the Rolex Submariner "Root Beer." This article delves deep into the world of the "Root Beer" Submariner, exploring its history, design evolution, investment potential, and everything you need to know about this coveted timepiece.

What is the Rolex Submariner "Root Beer"?

The "Root Beer" moniker, while unofficial, perfectly captures the essence of this particular Submariner. It refers to models featuring a brown and gold color scheme, reminiscent of the classic soda. This distinctive aesthetic, achieved through the use of two-tone metals (typically stainless steel and yellow gold or Everose gold) and a brown bezel, sets it apart from the more traditional black or blue Submariners.

While the term "Root Beer" is primarily associated with the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II models, it's also enthusiastically applied to certain Submariner references that share this appealing color palette. This article will focus on the Submariner "Root Beer," specifically those references that are widely recognized and sought after by collectors under this nickname.

A Journey Through Time: The History of the "Root Beer" Submariner Aesthetic

The "Root Beer" color scheme isn't entirely unique to the Submariner or even Rolex. However, its application to the Submariner line has created a distinct and desirable sub-category within the model family. To understand the "Root Beer" Submariner, we need to trace its lineage and evolution.

Early Two-Tone Submariners: Laying the Foundation

Rolex first introduced two-tone (Rolesor) models in the Submariner line in the late 1960s, marking a departure from the purely utilitarian, stainless steel tool watch image. The reference 1680/3, launched around 1969, was a pivotal model. While not explicitly "Root Beer," it featured a yellow gold and stainless steel construction and often came with a brown dial and bezel, foreshadowing the later "Root Beer" aesthetic. This reference, while sometimes referred to as a "nipple dial" due to the raised hour markers, is a crucial ancestor in the "Root Beer" story.

The Iconic Reference 16613: Embracing the "Root Beer" Nickname

The reference 16613, introduced in the late 1980s and produced until the late 2000s, is arguably the most widely recognized "Root Beer" Submariner. This model solidified the nickname and cemented the brown and gold combination as a desirable and luxurious option within the Submariner collection. Key features of the 16613 "Root Beer" include:

  • Two-Tone Construction: Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, creating the Rolesor look.
  • Brown Bezel: Anodized aluminum bezel insert in a rich brown hue, providing the defining "Root Beer" color.
  • Brown Dial: Often paired with a sunburst brown dial, enhancing the warm tones and luxurious feel. Some models feature a black dial, offering a more subtle "Root Beer" interpretation.
  • Sapphire Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a standard feature on modern Rolex watches.
  • Caliber 3135 Movement: Rolex's robust and reliable automatic Caliber 3135 movement, known for its accuracy and durability.

The 16613 "Root Beer" Submariner became a symbol of understated luxury and a popular choice for those seeking a Submariner with a touch of individuality. Its production run spanned several decades, resulting in various dial and bezel variations that collectors actively seek.

The Modern "Root Beer" Submariner: Reference 126613LN and 126613LB (Indirectly)

While Rolex doesn't currently produce a Submariner explicitly marketed as "Root Beer," the aesthetic lives on in spirit. The current generation Submariner reference 126613LN (black dial and bezel in yellow gold Rolesor) and 126613LB (blue dial and bezel in yellow gold Rolesor) offer a similar luxurious two-tone construction. While not brown, the yellow gold and black combination of the 126613LN can evoke a subtle "Root Beer" vibe to some, especially in certain lighting conditions. However, it's important to note that these are not officially considered "Root Beer" models.

Furthermore, the Rolex GMT-Master II reference 126711CHNR, often referred to as the "Root Beer" GMT, in Everose Rolesor (rose gold and stainless steel) with a black and brown ceramic bezel, is a contemporary model that truly carries the "Root Beer" torch. While a GMT-Master II and not a Submariner, its undeniable "Root Beer" aesthetic resonates with enthusiasts who appreciate the warm color scheme.

Design and Features: What Makes the "Root Beer" Submariner Stand Out?

The "Root Beer" Submariner's appeal lies in its unique blend of robust functionality and sophisticated aesthetics. Here's a closer look at its key design elements and features:

  • The Brown Bezel: The defining feature. The brown bezel, whether aluminum (on older models) or ceramic (Cerachrom on modern GMT-Master II "Root Beer"), provides a warm, earthy contrast to the gold and steel. It's less stark than black and offers a more vintage-inspired feel.
  • Two-Tone Rolesor Construction: The combination of stainless steel and gold (yellow or Everose) elevates the Submariner from a purely utilitarian tool watch to a luxury statement piece. The gold adds warmth and visual interest, while the steel ensures durability and robustness.
  • Dial Options: Historically, "Root Beer" Submariners featured brown dials that complemented the bezel. Black dials were also available, offering a more versatile and slightly less overtly "Root Beer" look. Modern interpretations, like the GMT-Master II "Root Beer," often utilize black dials to accentuate the bezel colors.
  • Oyster Bracelet: Typically paired with the iconic Oyster bracelet in Rolesor, providing a comfortable and secure fit while maintaining the cohesive two-tone aesthetic.
  • Submariner Functionality: Despite its luxurious appearance, the "Root Beer" Submariner retains all the core features of a Submariner: robust water resistance (typically 300 meters), unidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives, luminous markers for underwater visibility, and a reliable automatic movement.

Why is the "Root Beer" Submariner So Popular?

The enduring popularity of the "Root Beer" Submariner stems from a confluence of factors:

  • Distinctive Aesthetics: The warm brown and gold color scheme stands out from the crowd. It's a more unique and less common choice compared to the traditional black or blue Submariners, appealing to those who want a watch that expresses individuality.
  • Versatility: While luxurious, the "Root Beer" Submariner remains surprisingly versatile. It can be dressed up or down, pairing equally well with casual attire and more formal outfits. The brown tones are generally considered more subtle and adaptable than bolder colors.
  • Investment Potential: Vintage and well-maintained "Root Beer" Submariners, particularly reference 16613 in excellent condition with original box and papers, have seen significant appreciation in value over time. Rolex watches, in general, are considered strong investments, and desirable variations like the "Root Beer" often command premiums. (Disclaimer: Watch values can fluctuate, and past performance is not indicative of future results. Consult with a watch specialist before making investment decisions.)
  • Rolex Brand Prestige: Owning any Rolex carries a certain prestige and recognition. The Submariner, in particular, is an iconic model with a rich history and a reputation for quality and reliability. The "Root Beer" adds a layer of unique style to this already prestigious timepiece.
  • Nostalgia and Vintage Appeal: For many collectors, the "Root Beer" aesthetic evokes a sense of nostalgia for the 1970s and 1980s, when two-tone watches were highly fashionable. Vintage "Root Beer" models, with their tritium lume and aged patina, possess a unique charm that appeals to discerning collectors.

Investing in a Rolex Submariner "Root Beer": What to Consider

If you're considering investing in a Rolex Submariner "Root Beer," here are some key factors to keep in mind:

  • Reference Number: Reference 16613 is the quintessential "Root Beer" Submariner. Understand the subtle variations within this reference (dial color, production year) and their potential impact on value. Explore earlier two-tone references like 1680/3 for vintage appeal, but be aware of their rarity and potentially higher price points.
  • Condition: Condition is paramount when investing in any vintage or pre-owned watch. Look for watches in excellent condition with minimal wear and tear. Originality is also crucial; ensure all parts are original to the watch and period.
  • Box and Papers: Having the original box, papers (warranty certificate), and accessories significantly enhances the value and collectability of a Rolex. A "full set" will always be more desirable and command a higher price.
  • Market Research: Track current market prices for the specific "Root Beer" Submariner reference you are interested in. Websites like Chrono24, eBay (completed listings), and auction house results can provide valuable insights. Consult with reputable watch dealers and experts for guidance.
  • Long-Term Perspective: Investing in watches should be considered a long-term strategy. While Rolex watches generally hold value well, market fluctuations can occur. Buy watches you appreciate and enjoy wearing, and view any potential appreciation as a bonus.

Caring for Your Rolex Submariner "Root Beer"

Proper care and maintenance are essential to preserve the value and longevity of your Rolex Submariner "Root Beer." Here are some actionable tips:

  • Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft, damp cloth and mild soapy water. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry with a soft cloth.
  • Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years by an authorized Rolex service center. Regular servicing ensures the movement remains in optimal condition and maintains its accuracy and water resistance.
  • Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe and dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch winder. Avoid exposing it to extreme temperatures, humidity, or strong magnetic fields.
  • Be Mindful of Wear: While the Submariner is robust, avoid subjecting it to excessive shocks, impacts, or harsh environments that could damage the movement or case.
  • Insurance: Consider insuring your Rolex Submariner against loss, theft, or damage. A specialized watch insurance policy can provide peace of mind.

Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the "Root Beer" Submariner

The Rolex Submariner "Root Beer" is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of refined taste, adventurous spirit, and enduring style. Its distinctive brown and gold aesthetic, combined with the legendary robustness and reliability of the Submariner, has cemented its place as a coveted timepiece among collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. Whether you are drawn to its vintage charm, its investment potential, or simply its unique and captivating look, the "Root Beer" Submariner remains a true icon in the world of luxury watches, continuing to enchant and inspire generations of watch lovers.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Submariner "Root Beer"

Q: Is the "Root Beer" Submariner still in production?
A: Rolex does not currently produce a Submariner explicitly marketed as "Root Beer." The reference 16613 "Root Beer" was discontinued in the late 2000s. However, the GMT-Master II reference 126711CHNR is widely considered the modern "Root Beer" equivalent in the Rolex catalog, albeit a different model.
Q: What is the price of a Rolex Submariner "Root Beer"?
A: Prices vary significantly depending on the reference, condition, and whether it's pre-owned or vintage. Pre-owned reference 16613 "Root Beer" models can range from $10,000 to $20,000+ depending on condition and completeness. Vintage references or those in exceptional condition can command even higher prices. The GMT-Master II "Root Beer" 126711CHNR retails for around $15,700, but availability at retail is often limited, leading to higher prices on the secondary market.
Q: Is the "Root Beer" Submariner a good investment?
A: Historically, Rolex Submariner "Root Beer" models, particularly reference 16613, have shown strong appreciation in value. However, watch investments are subject to market fluctuations. Research specific references, condition, and market trends before making any investment decisions. Consult with watch experts for personalized advice. (Disclaimer: Watch values can fluctuate, and past performance is not indicative of future results.)
Q: What are the different dial colors available for the "Root Beer" Submariner 16613?
A: The Rolex Submariner 16613 "Root Beer" was primarily available with a brown sunburst dial. Black dials were also offered, providing a more understated "Root Beer" aesthetic.
Q: How can I authenticate a Rolex Submariner "Root Beer"?
A: Authenticating a Rolex requires expertise. Purchase from reputable dealers with a proven track record. Look for key Rolex authentication markers, such as the cyclops magnification, rehaut engraving, and bracelet construction. Consider having the watch authenticated by a professional watch authenticator or an authorized Rolex service center before purchase, especially when buying pre-owned from unknown sources.

References and Sources:

  1. Rolex Official Website: www.rolex.com
  2. Bob's Watches - History of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone Models: https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-resources/history-rolex-submariner-two-tone-models.html
  3. SwissWatchExpo - Rolex Submariner Two-Tone Brown Dial 16613: https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/watches/rolex/submariner/submariner-two-tone-brown-dial-16613-box-papers-42858/
  4. Chrono24 Marketplace: www.chrono24.com
  5. Hodinkee - Rolex Submariner Reference Points: A Collector's Guide: (Hypothetical Example - Search on Hodinkee for relevant articles)

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