The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a luxury watch; it's a statement. A harmonious blend of robust functionality and sophisticated aesthetics, this two-tone marvel has captivated watch enthusiasts and collectors for decades. Often overshadowed by its more flamboyant siblings like the "Pepsi" or "Batman," the "Root Beer" boasts a unique charm and a rich history that deserves closer examination. This article delves into the fascinating world of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," exploring its origins, evolution, design nuances, and enduring appeal in the contemporary horological landscape.
The Genesis of the "Root Beer" Nickname and the GMT-Master Lineage
To understand the allure of the "Root Beer," we must first appreciate the GMT-Master's heritage. Born from a collaboration between Rolex and Pan American Airways in the 1950s, the original GMT-Master (reference 6542) was designed for pilots navigating across multiple time zones. Its groundbreaking feature – a 24-hour hand and rotating bezel – allowed wearers to simultaneously track two time zones, a crucial tool for international travelers and professionals.
The "Root Beer" nickname emerged in the 1970s with the introduction of references featuring brown and gold bezels and dials. These warm, earthy tones, reminiscent of the classic American soda, resonated with a generation embracing a more relaxed and earthy style. While Rolex officially never used the "Root Beer" moniker, it stuck, becoming a beloved and widely recognized term within the watch community. The name perfectly encapsulates the watch's unique color palette and vintage charm.
Design and Features: Unpacking the "Root Beer" Aesthetic
What truly sets the "Root Beer" apart is its distinctive color scheme. Typically featuring a combination of:
- Everose Gold or Yellow Gold: Used for the bezel, crown, center links of the bracelet, and sometimes the dial accents. This precious metal exudes luxury and warmth.
- Stainless Steel: Providing robust durability and a contrasting cool tone, often used for the case, outer links of the bracelet, and dial base.
- Brown Bezel Insert: The defining element, traditionally made from Bakelite in early models and later from Rolex's proprietary Cerachrom ceramic, known for its scratch resistance and colorfastness. The bezel is marked with 24-hour graduations for tracking a second time zone.
- Brown or Black Dial: Complements the bezel and metal tones, often featuring applied gold hour markers and hands filled with luminous material for readability in low light.
Beyond the colors, the "Root Beer" retains the core GMT-Master II functionalities:
- GMT Functionality: The independent 24-hour hand, adjustable in one-hour increments, allows for easy tracking of a second time zone. This is crucial for travelers, global professionals, and anyone with international connections.
- Rotating 24-Hour Bezel: Working in conjunction with the 24-hour hand, the bezel enables the wearer to read a third time zone. This versatility is a hallmark of the GMT-Master II.
- Oyster Case: Rolex's robust and water-resistant Oyster case, typically in 40mm (and now 41mm in some modern iterations), provides exceptional protection for the movement.
- Automatic Movement: Powered by Rolex's in-house automatic movements, renowned for their precision, reliability, and longevity. Earlier "Root Beer" models used calibers like the 3075 and 3185, while modern versions utilize the updated caliber 3285, offering improved performance and a longer power reserve.
- Oyster Bracelet or Jubilee Bracelet: Typically paired with the robust Oyster bracelet for a sporty and secure feel, or sometimes the dressier Jubilee bracelet, depending on the specific reference and era.
Evolution of the "Root Beer": From Vintage Charm to Modern Refinement
The "Root Beer" has evolved through several references, each with its own nuances and collectibility:
- Vintage "Root Beers" (References 16753 & 16758): These models from the 1970s and 1980s are highly sought after by collectors. Reference 16753 is the steel and yellow gold version, while 16758 is the full yellow gold iteration. These vintage pieces often feature warmer, more faded brown hues in the bezel and dial, contributing to their unique patina and charm. They are powered by earlier Rolex movements and often feature tritium lume, which develops a creamy patina over time.
- Transitional "Root Beers" (References 16713 & 16718): These models from the late 1980s and 1990s represent a transition towards more modern features. They typically feature sapphire crystals, improved movements, and often utilize Luminova or Super-Luminova lume, which doesn't age in the same way as tritium.
- Modern "Root Beer" (Reference 126711CHNR): Introduced in 2018, the current "Root Beer" reference 126711CHNR (Chocolate Noir) marks a significant update. It features Rolex's proprietary Everose gold, a blend of gold, copper, and platinum that resists fading. The bezel insert is made of brown and black Cerachrom ceramic, creating a slightly different visual impact compared to vintage models. It's powered by the caliber 3285 movement and is available on an Oyster bracelet. This modern iteration has been incredibly popular, bridging the gap between vintage appeal and contemporary technology.
Why the "Root Beer" Resonates: Beyond the Hype
In a world dominated by stainless steel sports watches, the "Root Beer" stands out for several compelling reasons:
- Unique Aesthetics: The warm brown and gold tones offer a refreshing alternative to the more common black and blue bezels. It's a sophisticated and less overtly sporty look, making it versatile for various occasions.
- Vintage Appeal: The "Root Beer" has strong ties to the golden era of Rolex sports watches. Its nickname and color scheme evoke a sense of nostalgia and classic style.
- Versatility: While a sports watch at its core, the two-tone design lends itself to both casual and more formal settings. It can be dressed up or down with ease.
- Investment Potential: Rolex GMT-Master II models, in general, hold their value well, and "Root Beer" variations, especially vintage and discontinued models, are highly sought after by collectors, making them potentially strong investments.
- Rarity and Exclusivity: Compared to some other steel sports Rolex models, the "Root Beer," particularly in Everose gold, can be less readily available, adding to its desirability.
- Celebrity Endorsements (Subtle): While not overtly advertised, the "Root Beer" has been seen on the wrists of discerning celebrities and influential figures, further enhancing its cool factor.
Navigating the "Root Beer" Market: Buying Considerations
If you're considering acquiring a Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," here are some crucial factors to keep in mind:
- Authenticity: Due to its desirability, the "Root Beer" is unfortunately a target for counterfeiting. Purchase from authorized Rolex dealers (for modern models) or reputable vintage watch dealers. Thoroughly inspect the watch and its documentation.
- Condition: For vintage models, condition is paramount. Assess the dial, bezel, case, and bracelet for wear and tear. Original components and unpolished cases are generally more desirable to collectors.
- Reference and Era: Decide which "Root Beer" era appeals to you most – vintage, transitional, or modern. Each era has its own characteristics, movement, and price point.
- Price: "Root Beer" prices vary significantly depending on the reference, condition, and market demand. Vintage models can range widely, while modern Everose gold versions command a premium. Research current market prices and be prepared for a significant investment.
- Box and Papers: While not essential, original box and papers (warranty certificate, booklets) can add value and provenance, especially for vintage pieces.
Maintaining Your "Root Beer": Preserving its Legacy
To ensure your "Root Beer" remains a cherished timepiece for generations, proper care and maintenance are essential:
- Regular Cleaning: Gently clean your watch with a soft cloth and mild soapy water to remove dirt and grime. Avoid harsh chemicals.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends regular servicing by authorized service centers every 5-7 years to ensure optimal performance and longevity of the movement.
- Careful Handling: While robust, avoid subjecting your watch to extreme shocks, temperatures, or magnetic fields.
- Proper Storage: Store your "Root Beer" in a watch box or pouch when not in use to protect it from dust and scratches.
Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the "Root Beer"
The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of refined taste, adventurous spirit, and enduring style. Its unique color palette, rich history, and robust functionality have cemented its place as an icon in the world of horology. Whether you're drawn to the vintage charm of earlier references or the modern sophistication of the Everose gold iteration, the "Root Beer" offers a compelling blend of heritage and contemporary appeal. It's a timepiece that transcends trends, promising to remain a coveted and admired object for collectors and watch enthusiasts for years to come.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"
- Q: What is the "Root Beer" nickname for the Rolex GMT-Master II?
- A: The "Root Beer" nickname refers to GMT-Master II models featuring a brown and gold bezel and often a brown or black dial. The colors are reminiscent of the classic American soda, Root Beer.
- Q: What are the different "Root Beer" references?
- A: Key "Root Beer" references include vintage models 16753 and 16758, transitional models 16713 and 16718, and the modern reference 126711CHNR (Everose gold and steel).
- Q: Is the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II a good investment?
- A: Rolex GMT-Master II models, including "Root Beer" variations, generally hold their value well and can appreciate over time, particularly vintage and limited production models. However, watch investments carry risks, and past performance is not indicative of future results.
- Q: How much does a Rolex "Root Beer" cost?
- A: Prices vary greatly depending on the reference, condition, and market demand. Vintage models can range from tens of thousands to over $50,000, while modern Everose gold versions typically retail for over $15,000 (but may be higher on the secondary market due to demand).
- Q: Where can I buy a Rolex "Root Beer"?
- A: Modern "Root Beer" models can be purchased from authorized Rolex dealers, although availability may be limited. Vintage and pre-owned models are available from reputable vintage watch dealers and online marketplaces specializing in luxury watches. Always verify authenticity when buying pre-owned watches.
- Q: What is the water resistance of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"?
- A: Modern Rolex GMT-Master II models, including the "Root Beer," are typically water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet). Vintage models may have lower water resistance, and it's crucial to have them pressure-tested if you intend to expose them to water.
- Q: What movement is in the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II?
- A: The modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II reference 126711CHNR is powered by Rolex's caliber 3285, an in-house automatic movement known for its precision, reliability, and 70-hour power reserve.
References and Sources:
- Rolex Official Website: www.rolex.com
- Hodinkee: www.hodinkee.com (Leading watch news and review website)
- WatchTime: www.watchtime.com (Watch magazine and online resource)
- Revolution Watch: www.revolutionwatch.com (Luxury watch magazine and platform)
- Bob's Watches: www.bobswatches.com (Reputable pre-owned Rolex dealer - for market data and model information)
