The Rolex Submariner. Just the name itself conjures images of adventure, sophistication, and unparalleled craftsmanship. While the modern Submariner remains a highly sought-after timepiece, it's the original Rolex Submariner – the pioneering models from the 1950s and 60s – that truly capture the hearts of collectors and horology enthusiasts worldwide. These aren't just watches; they are artifacts of a bygone era, testaments to Rolex's relentless pursuit of innovation, and icons of dive watch history. This comprehensive guide delves into the fascinating world of the original Rolex Submariner, exploring its history, design evolution, collectibility, and why it continues to reign supreme in the world of luxury watches.

Tracing the Origins: The Birth of an Icon

The story of the original Rolex Submariner begins in the early 1950s, a period of burgeoning exploration both on land and under the sea. Jacques Cousteau and Émile Gagnan had recently perfected the Aqua-Lung, opening up the underwater world to recreational and professional divers. Recognizing this growing trend, Rolex, under the visionary leadership of René-Paul Jeanneret, began developing a watch specifically designed for divers – a timepiece that would be reliable, legible, and robust enough to withstand the harsh conditions of the deep.

The Genesis of the Submariner: 1953 and Beyond

In 1953, Rolex unveiled the Submariner, reference 6204. This marked a pivotal moment in watchmaking history. While other dive watches existed, the Submariner was different. It was designed from the ground up to be a tool for divers, boasting features that would become the hallmark of the modern dive watch. Key features of the initial Submariner included:

• Water Resistance: Initially rated to 100 meters (330 feet), a groundbreaking achievement for the time.
• Rotating Bezel: A crucial innovation for divers to track elapsed dive time.
• Luminous Markers: Ensuring legibility in low-light underwater environments.
• Robust Oyster Case: Providing exceptional protection against water and pressure.

The reference 6204 was quickly followed by other early models like the 6205 and the 6200. The 6200, notably, pushed the water resistance even further and featured the now-iconic Mercedes hands, a design element that would become synonymous with Rolex sports watches.

Key Early References: Pioneers of Dive Watch Design

The 1950s and 60s saw a flurry of innovation and refinement in the Submariner line. Understanding these early references is key to appreciating the evolution of the original Rolex Submariner:

• Reference 6204 & 6205 (1953-1955): The pioneering models, characterized by pencil hands, smaller crown guards (or no crown guards in the very earliest examples), and a generally more understated aesthetic. These are exceptionally rare and highly sought after.
• Reference 6200 (1954-1955): Known as the "King Submariner," featuring a larger case, Mercedes hands, and a depth rating of 200 meters. Extremely rare and valuable.
• Reference 6538 (1955-1959): Famously known as the "Big Crown" Submariner due to its large 8mm crown, made iconic by James Bond in early films. Highly collectible for its historical significance and aesthetic appeal.
• Reference 6536 & 6536/1 (1955-1959): Similar to the 6538 but with a smaller 6mm crown. Still highly desirable and considered a "small crown" variant.
• Reference 5508 (1958-1959): Another "small crown" model, often featuring gilt dials, further adding to its vintage charm. A bridge between the early crown-less designs and the later crown guard models.
• Reference 5510 (1958-1959): The "Big Crown" successor to the 6538, also featuring a 200m depth rating and often seen with gilt dials. Another James Bond watch and a cornerstone of any serious collection.
• Reference 5512 (1959-1978): The first Submariner to feature crown guards and officially designated "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified," reflecting Rolex's commitment to precision and performance. Marked a shift towards a more robust and professional design.
• Reference 5513 (1962-1989): The non-chronometer rated counterpart to the 5512, becoming one of the longest-produced and most iconic Submariner references. Valued for its classic design and versatility.

Defining the "Original": Characteristics of Early Submariners

What exactly defines an "original" Rolex Submariner? It's more than just age; it's about the distinct design elements and features that characterized these pioneering models. These characteristics contribute to their collectibility and historical significance:

Dial Details: The Face of History

Early Submariner dials are a treasure trove of details for collectors. Key features include:

• Gilt Dials: Many early references (especially in the 1950s) featured gilt dials, where the text and minute track were printed in gold-colored paint, offering a warm, luxurious aesthetic.
• Chapter Rings: Some early models featured chapter rings, a circular track around the dial's periphery marking the minutes or seconds, adding to their vintage charm.
• "OCC" Designation: Later 5512 models featured "Officially Certified Chronometer" (OCC) on the dial before transitioning to "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" (SCOC), marking a significant change in dial typography.
• "Submariner" Font and Placement: Variations in the font, size, and placement of the "Submariner" text on the dial are crucial for identifying specific references and production periods.
• Luminous Material: Early Submariners used radium, later tritium, and eventually Luminova/Super-Luminova for luminescence. The type of luminous material used can help date a watch and is a key factor for collectors.

Case and Bezel Evolution: Form and Function

The case and bezel of the original Submariner underwent significant development during its early years:

• Crown Guards: The introduction of crown guards with the 5512 was a major design shift, providing enhanced protection for the crown and contributing to the watch's more robust tool-watch aesthetic.
• Bezel Inserts: Early bezel inserts were often made of Bakelite (on some very early models) or aluminum, and evolved in terms of markings and font styles over time. "Long 5" and "Fat Font" bezel inserts are highly sought after by collectors.
• Case Shape and Size: While generally consistent in size (around 38-40mm), subtle variations in case shape and lug design exist across different references and production periods.
• "Pointed Crown Guards" (PCG): Early 5512 and 5513 models featured pointed crown guards, which are highly prized for their unique and short-lived design.

Movements: The Heartbeat of Vintage Submariners

The movements powering the original Submariners were robust and reliable, reflecting Rolex's commitment to mechanical excellence:

• Caliber A.260, 1030, 1065, 1530, 1560, 1570: These were the workhorse movements used in various early Submariner references. They were known for their durability, accuracy, and ease of servicing.
• Butterfly Rotor: Early automatic movements, like the 1030, featured a "butterfly" or "rotor" automatic winding mechanism, a characteristic of early Rolex self-winding movements.
• Chronometer Certification: The introduction of chronometer certification for the 5512 and later models emphasized Rolex's focus on precision timekeeping.

Bracelets and Straps: Completing the Package

While often overlooked, the bracelets and straps of original Submariners are also important aspects of their authenticity and collectibility:

• Oyster Bracelets: Early Submariners were typically fitted with riveted Oyster bracelets, known for their distinctive construction and vintage aesthetic.
• Folded Link Bracelets: Later models transitioned to folded link Oyster bracelets, offering a slightly different feel and appearance.
• End Links: The end links connecting the bracelet to the case also evolved over time, with different shapes and designs specific to certain references and periods.
• Leather or NATO Straps: While originally designed for Oyster bracelets, many owners of vintage Submariners today enjoy pairing them with leather or NATO straps for a more casual or personalized look.

Why "Original" Matters: The Value Proposition

The original Rolex Submariner is more than just a vintage watch; it's a highly sought-after collectible with significant investment potential. Several factors contribute to its enduring value:

Rarity and Historical Significance: The Cornerstones of Value

• Limited Production Runs: Early Submariner references were produced in relatively smaller numbers compared to modern models, making them inherently rarer.
• Historical Importance: As pioneers of dive watch design, these models represent a crucial chapter in horological history, adding to their desirability among collectors.
• Evolutionary Significance: Each early reference represents a step in the evolution of the Submariner, showcasing Rolex's iterative design process and continuous improvement.
• Celebrity and Pop Culture Association: The association of early Submariners with figures like James Bond and iconic divers further enhances their allure and value.

Condition and Provenance: Key Factors in Collectibility

When it comes to collecting original Rolex Submariners, condition and provenance are paramount:

• Original Condition: Watches in original, unpolished condition with all original parts are highly prized. "Honest wear" is often preferred over over-restored examples.
• Dial Condition: The condition of the dial, including the lume, paint, and any patina, significantly impacts value. Original, untouched dials are highly sought after.
• Movement Condition: A well-maintained and original movement is essential. Servicing history and the presence of original components are important considerations.
• Provenance and History: Watches with documented history, original paperwork, or connections to notable individuals or events command a premium.

Distinguishing Original from Modern: Key Differences

While the DNA of the original Submariner is evident in modern iterations, significant differences exist. Understanding these distinctions is crucial for appreciating the unique charm of the originals:

Design and Aesthetics: A Tale of Two Eras

• Vintage Charm vs. Modern Refinement: Original Submariners possess a distinct vintage charm, characterized by warmer tones, gilt accents (in some models), and a more tool-watch aesthetic. Modern Submariners are more refined, with a focus on polished surfaces and a more luxurious feel.
• Dial Typography and Details: Dial typography, font styles, and the overall dial layout differ significantly between original and modern models. Vintage dials often have a more hand-crafted feel.
• Case Proportions: While subtle, case proportions and lug shapes have evolved over time. Original cases often have a more slender profile compared to the more robust modern cases.
• Bezel Material and Construction: Modern Submariners feature ceramic bezel inserts ("Cerachrom"), which are highly scratch-resistant and fade-proof. Original bezels were aluminum, which are prone to scratching and fading, developing a unique patina over time that many collectors appreciate.

Technological Advancements: Evolution, Not Revolution

• Movements: Modern Submariners are equipped with updated movements offering improved performance, accuracy, and power reserve. However, the core principles of Rolex's robust and reliable movements remain consistent.
• Materials: Modern Submariners utilize advanced materials like 904L stainless steel for enhanced corrosion resistance, while original models used 316L stainless steel.
• Luminescence: Modern Submariners use Super-Luminova, offering superior and longer-lasting luminescence compared to the radium and tritium used in original models.
• Water Resistance: While original Submariners were groundbreaking for their time, modern models offer even greater water resistance capabilities.

Collecting Original Submariners: A Journey for Enthusiasts

Collecting original Rolex Submariners is a rewarding but complex endeavor. It requires patience, research, and a discerning eye. Here are some key considerations for aspiring collectors:

Research and Due Diligence: Know Before You Buy

• Study Reference Guides and Resources: Immerse yourself in books, online forums, and reputable websites dedicated to vintage Rolex watches. Learn about different references, variations, and key identifying features.
• Understand Market Values: Track auction results and market trends to get a sense of current values for different references and conditions.
• Network with Experts and Collectors: Connect with experienced collectors, dealers, and watch experts to gain valuable insights and build your knowledge base.

Authenticity and Verification: Protecting Your Investment

• Buy from Reputable Sources: Purchase from established vintage watch dealers with a proven track record of authenticity and transparency.
• Thorough Inspection: Carefully examine the watch in person or request detailed photos and videos. Pay close attention to dial details, case markings, movement engravings, and bracelet components.
• Seek Expert Opinions: Consider having the watch authenticated by a reputable watch authenticator or Rolex specialist before making a purchase, especially for high-value pieces.
• Check Serial and Reference Numbers: Verify the serial and reference numbers against Rolex databases and production charts to confirm the watch's age and authenticity.

Where to Find Original Submariners: Navigating the Market

• Reputable Vintage Watch Dealers: Specialized vintage watch dealers are often the best source for finding authentic and well-vetted original Submariners.
• Auction Houses: Major auction houses like Christie's, Sotheby's, and Phillips regularly feature vintage Rolex watches in their sales, offering a platform for high-end and rare pieces.
• Online Marketplaces (with Caution): Online marketplaces can offer opportunities, but exercise extreme caution and due diligence. Prioritize reputable sellers and always authenticate the watch before finalizing a purchase.
• Watch Forums and Communities: Engaging in online watch forums and communities can provide access to private sales and connections with other collectors who may be selling or trading original Submariners.

FAQ: Your Questions Answered About Original Rolex Submariners

Frequently Asked Questions

What is considered an "original" Rolex Submariner?

Generally, "original" Rolex Submariners refer to models produced from the 1950s through the 1980s, encompassing references like the 6204, 6538, 5510, 5512, and 5513. These are the pioneering models that established the Submariner's iconic design and cemented its place in horological history.

How much does an original Rolex Submariner cost?

Prices vary wildly depending on the reference, condition, rarity, and provenance. Entry-level 5513 models can start around $10,000-$15,000, while ultra-rare references like the 6200 or "Big Crown" models in exceptional condition can fetch hundreds of thousands of dollars, even exceeding $1 million at auction.

What makes original Submariners so collectible?

Their historical significance as pioneering dive watches, limited production numbers, unique vintage design elements (like gilt dials and Bakelite bezels), association with iconic figures, and the enduring legacy of the Rolex brand all contribute to their high collectibility.

How can I tell if an original Submariner is authentic?

Authenticating a vintage Rolex requires expert knowledge. Look for consistent dial details, correct case markings, appropriate movement engravings, and original components. Purchase from reputable dealers and consider professional authentication services.

Are original Rolex Submariners a good investment?

In general, well-preserved original Rolex Submariners have proven to be excellent investments over time. However, like any investment, market values can fluctuate. Focus on buying watches you love and enjoy the collecting journey.

Should I service an original Rolex Submariner?

Yes, regular servicing is essential to maintain the functionality and longevity of a vintage Submariner. Choose a reputable watchmaker experienced in vintage Rolex servicing to ensure proper care and preservation of original components.

What are some key resources for learning more about original Rolex Submariners?

Books like "Rolex Submariner Story" by Franca and Guido Mondani, online forums like Rolex Forums, and reputable vintage watch websites and blogs are excellent resources for further learning.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Original Submariner

The original Rolex Submariner is more than just a vintage timepiece; it's a horological icon, a symbol of adventure, and a testament to Rolex's unwavering commitment to excellence. From its groundbreaking debut in 1953 to the refined models of the 1980s, the original Submariner lineage represents a fascinating journey of innovation and design evolution. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, owning an original Submariner is not just about possessing a beautiful watch; it's about owning a piece of history, a tangible link to the golden age of dive watches, and a timeless symbol of enduring style and craftsmanship. As the demand for vintage Rolex continues to grow, the allure and value of the original Submariner are only set to strengthen, solidifying its position as one of the most coveted and collectible watches in the world.

References and Further Reading

1. Dowling, James M., and Jeffrey P. Hess. The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History. JP Media, 1996.
2. Mondani, Franca, and Guido Mondani. Rolex Submariner Story. Mondani Editore, 2015.
3. Rolex Official Website - Submariner Collection (Modern Submariner Information)
4. Hodinkee - A Complete History of the Rolex Submariner (Reputable Watch Blog Article)
5. Phillips Auctions - Watch Department (Auction House with Vintage Rolex Sales)