For decades, the Rolex Submariner has reigned supreme as the quintessential dive watch, a symbol of adventure, precision, and enduring style. While the all-steel models are iconic in their own right, the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel, often referred to as the Rolesor Submariner or two-tone Submariner, elevates this legendary timepiece to a new level of luxury and versatility. This article delves into the captivating world of the gold and steel Submariner, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it remains a coveted object for watch enthusiasts and discerning individuals worldwide.

Understanding Rolex Rolesor: The Fusion of Strength and Splendor

Before diving into the specifics of the Submariner Gold Steel, it's crucial to understand Rolex's concept of "Rolesor." Rolesor is the term Rolex coined in 1933 to describe the harmonious combination of two precious metals – gold and steel – in a single watch. This ingenious pairing isn't merely aesthetic; it's a strategic blend of the best properties of both materials. Steel, renowned for its robustness, strength, and corrosion resistance, provides the foundational durability needed for a tool watch like the Submariner. Gold, with its inherent beauty, prestige, and resistance to tarnish, adds a touch of opulence and sophistication.

In a Rolesor Rolex, gold is typically used in high-wear areas like the bezel, crown, and center links of the bracelet, where its resistance to corrosion and scratching (compared to some other metals) is beneficial, while steel provides the overall structural integrity and cost-effectiveness for the case and outer bracelet links. This thoughtful combination results in a watch that is both incredibly durable and undeniably luxurious, offering the best of both worlds.

A Historical Glimpse: The Evolution of the Gold and Steel Submariner

While the Submariner itself was launched in 1953 as a purely functional tool watch, the introduction of precious metals into the collection marked a significant shift, broadening its appeal beyond professional divers to a wider audience seeking a blend of performance and prestige. The first Rolesor Submariner, reference 1680/3, debuted in the late 1960s (some sources cite 1969), featuring a yellow gold bezel and center links paired with a stainless steel case and outer bracelet links. This pioneering model laid the groundwork for the enduring popularity of the gold and steel Submariner.

Over the decades, the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel has undergone numerous refinements and updates, mirroring the evolution of the entire Submariner line. Key milestones include:

  • Reference 1680/3: The original Rolesor Submariner, featuring a matte blue or black dial and an aluminum bezel insert.
  • Reference 16613: Introduced in the late 1980s, this reference marked a significant upgrade with a sapphire crystal, a unidirectional bezel, and the Rolex caliber 3135 movement. It became a quintessential symbol of the "greed is good" era, embodying a blend of success and adventurous spirit.
  • Reference 116613LN/LB: The "Super Case" era brought a more substantial and robust feel to the Submariner. This reference featured a ceramic bezel (Cerachrom), a thicker case, and broader lugs, enhancing its wrist presence and scratch resistance. Available in black (LN) and blue (LB) ceramic bezels.
  • Reference 126613LN/LB: The current generation, introduced in 2020, features a slightly larger 41mm case, refined proportions, and the upgraded Rolex caliber 3235 movement, boasting improved efficiency and a longer power reserve. Still available in black (LN) and blue (LB) ceramic bezels.

Each iteration has brought advancements in technology, materials, and design, solidifying the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel's position as a leader in luxury dive watches.

Design and Features that Define the Gold and Steel Submariner

The Rolex Submariner Gold Steel retains the core design DNA of the iconic Submariner, ensuring its instantly recognizable silhouette. However, the addition of gold elevates its aesthetic and tactile experience. Key design and feature elements include:

Case and Bezel:

Typically crafted from Rolex's proprietary Oystersteel (904L stainless steel), the case provides exceptional corrosion resistance and durability. The unidirectional rotating bezel, a critical feature for divers, is made of solid 18k yellow gold and features a Cerachrom ceramic insert. Cerachrom is virtually scratchproof, fade-proof, and highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring the bezel remains pristine for years to come. The gold knurled edge of the bezel provides excellent grip for easy rotation, even with gloves.

Dial and Hands:

The dial is available in classic black or vibrant royal blue, offering a striking contrast with the gold accents. Luminous hour markers and hands, coated with Chromalight, provide exceptional legibility in low-light conditions, a crucial feature for diving. The iconic Mercedes hands, a signature of the Submariner, are rendered in gold, adding to the luxurious feel. The date window at 3 o'clock, magnified by the Cyclops lens, enhances readability (on date models).

Bracelet:

The Oyster bracelet, synonymous with Rolex sports watches, is a masterpiece of engineering and comfort. In the Gold Steel Submariner, the bracelet is crafted from Oystersteel with solid 18k yellow gold center links. The combination of brushed steel and polished gold creates a visually stunning and comfortable bracelet that drapes elegantly on the wrist. It features the Oysterlock safety clasp, preventing accidental opening, and the Glidelock extension system, allowing for fine adjustments of the bracelet length without tools – perfect for wearing over a wetsuit.

Movement:

The modern Rolex Submariner Gold Steel is powered by the Rolex caliber 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement is at the forefront of watchmaking technology, boasting exceptional precision, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. It features the Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Water Resistance:

True to its heritage, the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel is water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet), making it a genuine dive watch capable of withstanding the pressures of underwater exploration. Each Submariner undergoes rigorous testing to ensure its water resistance and reliability.

Why Choose a Rolex Submariner Gold Steel? The Allure Explained

The Rolex Submariner Gold Steel holds a unique appeal that transcends mere functionality. It represents a compelling blend of several desirable qualities:

  • Versatility: It’s a watch that seamlessly transitions from the boardroom to the beach, from formal events to casual outings. The gold element adds a touch of dressiness, while the steel maintains its sporty and robust character.
  • Luxury and Prestige: The inclusion of gold instantly elevates the Submariner into the realm of luxury watches. It’s a statement of success and refined taste, without being overtly ostentatious like a full gold watch.
  • Investment Potential: Rolex watches, particularly Submariners, are known for holding their value exceptionally well and often appreciating over time, especially in the pre-owned market. A Gold Steel Submariner, due to its precious metal content and desirability, can be a sound investment. (Note: Watch investment is complex and not guaranteed.)
  • Durability and Reliability: Despite its luxurious appearance, the Gold Steel Submariner remains a robust and reliable tool watch, built to withstand the rigors of daily wear and even demanding activities.
  • Iconic Design: The Submariner design is timeless and universally recognized. Owning a Gold Steel Submariner is owning a piece of horological history and a design icon that has stood the test of time.
  • Comfort and Wearability: The Oyster bracelet and well-proportioned case ensure exceptional comfort on the wrist, making it a pleasure to wear daily.

Navigating the Market: Buying a Rolex Submariner Gold Steel

Acquiring a Rolex Submariner Gold Steel, whether new or pre-owned, requires understanding the current market dynamics.

Buying New: Authorized Dealers (ADs)

Purchasing from an Authorized Rolex Dealer (AD) is the ideal way to acquire a brand-new Submariner Gold Steel. However, due to high demand and limited production, waitlists are common. Building a relationship with an AD and expressing genuine interest can improve your chances. Be prepared for a potentially long wait, but the peace of mind and full warranty that come with buying new are significant advantages.

Buying Pre-Owned: Grey Market and Trusted Resellers

The pre-owned market offers a wider selection and often quicker availability, but it's crucial to exercise caution and buy from reputable sources. Trusted grey market dealers and established pre-owned watch retailers can provide authenticity guarantees and warranties. Thoroughly research the seller's reputation and inspect the watch carefully, paying attention to condition, paperwork, and serial numbers. Prices in the pre-owned market can fluctuate and are often above retail for highly sought-after models.

Key Considerations When Buying:

  • Authenticity: Especially in the pre-owned market, ensure the watch is authentic. Purchase from trusted sources and look for hallmarks of genuine Rolex watches.
  • Condition: Assess the watch's condition carefully, considering scratches, dents, bracelet stretch, and service history.
  • Paperwork and Box: Original box and papers (warranty card, booklets) add value and authenticity, particularly for pre-owned watches.
  • Price: Research current market prices for the specific reference and condition you are considering. Be wary of deals that seem too good to be true.
  • Reference Number: Know the specific reference number (e.g., 126613LN, 116613LB) to ensure you are getting the exact model you desire.

Caring for Your Rolex Submariner Gold Steel

To maintain the beauty and longevity of your Rolex Submariner Gold Steel, proper care and maintenance are essential:

  • Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and lukewarm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry gently.
  • Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Avoid exposing your watch to harsh chemicals, solvents, or extreme temperatures.
  • Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years by an authorized Rolex service center. Regular servicing ensures optimal performance and longevity.
  • Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe and dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch box.
  • Polishing: While gold is relatively scratch-resistant, it can still acquire minor scratches over time. Professional polishing can restore its luster, but avoid over-polishing, which can remove metal and soften edges.

Conclusion: A Timeless Icon of Style and Substance

The Rolex Submariner Gold Steel is more than just a watch; it's a statement. It embodies a perfect harmony of robustness and refinement, sportiness and sophistication. It's a timepiece that has graced the wrists of adventurers, celebrities, and discerning individuals for generations, a testament to its enduring design and exceptional quality. Whether you're drawn to its historical significance, its luxurious aesthetic, or its inherent versatility, the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel remains a highly desirable and iconic watch, a true symbol of achievement and timeless elegance that will continue to captivate watch enthusiasts for years to come.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel

What is Rolesor in a Rolex watch?
Rolesor is Rolex's term for watches that combine gold and steel. It typically involves an 18k gold bezel, crown, and center bracelet links, with a steel case and outer bracelet links.
Is the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel a good investment?
Rolex Submariners, including the Gold Steel models, generally hold their value well and can appreciate over time. However, watch investment is not guaranteed, and market fluctuations can occur. It's best to purchase a watch you love and enjoy, regardless of potential investment value.
What are the different dial colors available for the Rolex Submariner Gold Steel?
The most common dial colors are black and blue. Some older references may have featured other dial variations, but black and blue are the standard options for current models.
Is the bezel on a Rolex Submariner Gold Steel scratch-resistant?
Yes, the bezel insert is made of Cerachrom ceramic, which is virtually scratchproof. The gold bezel edge is also relatively scratch-resistant but can still acquire minor scratches over time.
How much does a Rolex Submariner Gold Steel cost?
Retail prices vary by reference and market conditions. As of 2023, the retail price for a new Rolex Submariner Gold Steel (reference 126613LN/LB) is in the range of $15,000 - $16,000 USD. Pre-owned prices can vary depending on condition, age, and market demand, often exceeding retail.
Where can I buy a Rolex Submariner Gold Steel?
You can purchase a new Submariner Gold Steel from Authorized Rolex Dealers (ADs). Pre-owned models can be found at reputable grey market dealers, pre-owned watch retailers, and auction houses.
How often should I service my Rolex Submariner Gold Steel?
Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years by an authorized Rolex service center.

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