The Rolex Submariner. Just the name evokes images of deep-sea exploration, timeless design, and unparalleled craftsmanship. For over seven decades, this iconic dive watch has reigned supreme, setting the standard for tool watches and becoming a symbol of adventure and prestige. But before the ceramic bezels and maxi cases, there was the "original" Rolex Submariner – a timepiece that laid the foundation for a horological dynasty. This article delves into the fascinating world of the original Rolex Submariner, exploring its history, design evolution, collectibility, and enduring appeal.

Understanding What Defines an "Original" Rolex Submariner

Defining "original" in the context of the Submariner requires a nuanced understanding of Rolex's iterative approach to watchmaking. Unlike a single "Mark 1" version, the early Submariners were a series of evolving references, each building upon the last and contributing to the watch's legendary status. When we talk about the "original" Submariner, we're generally referring to the earliest references produced between the early 1950s and the late 1960s. These pioneering models, often characterized by their no-crown guard cases, gilt dials, and bakelite bezels (in some instances), represent the purest expression of Rolex's vision for a professional dive watch.

Key references often considered part of the "original" Submariner lineage include:

• References 6204 and 6205 (1953-1955): These are widely recognized as the very first Submariners. The 6204 is often cited as the absolute first, though both were released around the same time. They featured pencil hands, small crowns, and a depth rating of 100 meters (330 feet).
• Reference 6200 (1954-1955): A slightly larger and rarer model, the 6200 is notable for its oversized crown (often referred to as the "Big Crown") and higher depth rating. It is considered a highly collectible and valuable piece.
• Reference 6538 (1955-1959): Another "Big Crown" Submariner, famously worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in early films. This reference further solidified the Submariner's image and desirability.
• Reference 6536 and 6536/1 (1955-1959): These models featured a smaller crown compared to the 6538 but retained the no-crown guard case design. The 6536/1 is an evolution with an improved movement.
• Reference 5508 (1958-1959): Similar to the 6536, the 5508 is another no-crown guard model, often seen as a transitional reference.
• Reference 5512 (1959-1980) and 5513 (1962-1989): While technically spanning a longer production period and featuring crown guards (introduced with the 5512), the early examples of these references are still considered within the "original" spirit. The 5512 was chronometer-certified, while the 5513 was not, offering a more accessible option.

The Genesis of a Dive Watch Legend: History and Development

The early 1950s witnessed a burgeoning interest in underwater exploration and diving. Jacques Cousteau's groundbreaking underwater documentaries captivated audiences, and recreational diving began to gain popularity. Recognizing this trend, Rolex, under the leadership of René-Paul Jeanneret, a keen diver himself, embarked on a mission to create a watch specifically designed for underwater use.

Rolex already had a reputation for water resistance, cemented by the Oyster case. However, the Submariner was conceived as a dedicated tool watch, pushing the boundaries of water resistance and legibility in challenging underwater environments. The key innovations in the original Submariner included:

• Rotating Bezel: A crucial feature for divers to track elapsed dive time and decompression stops. The original Submariner bezels were bi-directional and often made of bakelite, a type of early plastic, with luminous markings.
• Oyster Case Refinement: Building upon the existing Oyster case, Rolex further enhanced its water resistance and robustness to withstand the pressures of diving.
• Luminous Dials and Hands: Ensuring maximum legibility in low-light underwater conditions was paramount. Radium and later tritium were used for luminescence on the dials and hands.
• Robust Movements: Reliability was essential. Early Submariners were powered by robust and dependable Rolex movements, ensuring accurate timekeeping even under stress.

The release of the first Submariners in 1953 was a watershed moment. They weren't just watches; they were purpose-built instruments for a new era of exploration. The collaboration with professional divers and underwater pioneers was integral to the Submariner's development, ensuring it met the real-world demands of underwater professionals.

Design Elements that Define the "Original" Submariner Aesthetic

The original Rolex Submariner's design is characterized by a functional elegance and a purity of form that continues to resonate today. Several key design elements contribute to its iconic status:

• No Crown Guards: The absence of crown guards on early references like the 6204, 6205, 6200, 6538, 6536, and 5508 gives them a distinct vintage charm. This design choice was eventually changed with later references to enhance crown protection.
• Gilt Dials: Many early Submariners featured gilt dials, where the text and minute track were printed in gold-colored paint. This created a warm, luxurious aesthetic and offered excellent contrast against the black dial.
• Pencil Hands and Mercedes Hands: Early models like the 6204 and 6205 featured pencil hands, while the iconic "Mercedes" hands, offering improved lume surface area, became standard on later references like the 6538 and onwards.
• Bakelite Bezels (Early Examples): Some of the earliest Submariners, particularly the 6200 and some 6538s, featured bezels made from Bakelite. These bezels are highly sought after for their vintage appeal, though they are also more fragile than later aluminum or ceramic bezels. Note: Bakelite bezels are prone to cracking and are very rare in good condition.
• Small Crowns and Big Crowns: The variation in crown size is a significant distinguishing factor. "Big Crown" models like the 6200 and 6538 are particularly desirable due to their bold aesthetic and historical significance.
• Riveted Oyster Bracelets: Early Submariners were often paired with riveted Oyster bracelets, characterized by visible rivets on the sides of the links. These bracelets contribute to the vintage feel of the watch.

These design elements, combined with the watch's robust functionality, created a timepiece that was both utilitarian and aesthetically pleasing – a winning formula that contributed to its enduring popularity.

Why Original Rolex Submariners are Highly Coveted by Collectors

Original Rolex Submariners are not just vintage watches; they are highly sought-after collector's items. Several factors contribute to their desirability and high market value:

• Historical Significance: These were the pioneering models of a watch that revolutionized diving and watchmaking. Owning an original Submariner is owning a piece of horological history.
• Rarity: Production numbers for these early references were relatively low compared to later Submariners. Over time, many have been lost, damaged, or modified, making well-preserved examples increasingly scarce.
• Iconic Design: The clean lines, functional layout, and distinctive design elements of the original Submariner have become timeless and universally admired.
• Investment Value: The value of original Submariners has consistently appreciated over time, making them not only objects of passion but also potentially sound investments. "Big Crown" references and those with rare dial variations command particularly high prices.
• Provenance and Story: Vintage watches often come with a story, and original Submariners, especially those with documented history or ties to specific divers or events, are even more valuable.

The allure of an original Submariner is multifaceted, appealing to collectors, history buffs, and watch enthusiasts alike. It represents a tangible link to a golden era of exploration and a testament to Rolex's enduring legacy of innovation and quality.

Buying and Collecting Original Rolex Submariners: Key Considerations

Venturing into the world of collecting original Rolex Submariners requires careful research, patience, and a discerning eye. Here are some crucial considerations for prospective buyers:

• Authentication is Paramount: The vintage Rolex market is rife with fakes and frankenwatches (watches assembled from parts of different watches). Thorough authentication by reputable experts is absolutely essential before making a purchase. Look for reputable dealers specializing in vintage Rolex watches.
• Condition is King: While patina and signs of age are often appreciated in vintage watches, overall condition significantly impacts value. Original parts, unpolished cases (to preserve sharp lines), and well-preserved dials are highly desirable.
• Know Your References: Deeply research the specific references you are interested in. Understand the nuances of dial variations, bezel types, and production periods. This knowledge is crucial for identifying authentic and desirable examples.
• Buy from Reputable Sources: Purchase from established vintage watch dealers with a proven track record and strong reputation. Consider reputable auction houses specializing in watches. Private sales can be riskier and require even more due diligence.
• Be Prepared for the Price: Original Submariners, especially the most sought-after references, are expensive. Prices can range from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of dollars, depending on the reference, condition, and rarity.
• Consider Service History: Inquire about the watch's service history. While originality is key, a watch that has been professionally serviced to maintain its functionality is preferable to one that has been neglected. However, ensure servicing has been done correctly and with genuine Rolex parts where appropriate, to maintain originality.

Collecting original Rolex Submariners is a rewarding pursuit for those passionate about horology and history. It's an investment in a tangible piece of watchmaking heritage, and the thrill of owning a well-preserved example of this iconic timepiece is truly unparalleled.

Caring for Your Original Rolex Submariner: Preservation and Maintenance

Owning an original Rolex Submariner comes with the responsibility of proper care and maintenance to preserve its value and functionality. Here are some essential tips:

• Handle with Care: Vintage watches are more delicate than modern ones. Avoid exposing your original Submariner to excessive shocks, impacts, or extreme temperatures.
• Regular Servicing: Even if your watch is not worn frequently, regular servicing by a qualified watchmaker specializing in vintage Rolex is crucial. This ensures the movement is clean, lubricated, and functioning optimally.
• Water Resistance Considerations: While originally designed for diving, the water resistance of a vintage Submariner is likely compromised due to age and wear of seals. It is generally advisable to avoid submerging a vintage Submariner in water unless it has been recently serviced and pressure-tested by a specialist.
• Proper Storage: Store your watch in a safe, dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperature fluctuations. Consider using a watch winder if you want to keep the movement running, though this is not strictly necessary for mechanical watches.
• Insurance: Given the value of original Submariners, adequate insurance is essential to protect your investment against loss, theft, or damage.

By following these care guidelines, you can ensure that your original Rolex Submariner remains a cherished and valuable heirloom for generations to come.

FAQ: Common Questions About Original Rolex Submariners

What is the most valuable original Rolex Submariner?

References 6200 and 6538 "Big Crown" Submariners, particularly those with rare dial variations or exceptional provenance, are generally considered the most valuable original Submariners. Bakelite bezel examples also command premiums.

How can I identify an original Rolex Submariner?

Identifying an original Submariner requires careful examination of reference numbers, serial numbers, dial details, bezel type, case shape, and movement characteristics. Consulting vintage Rolex experts and reputable resources is highly recommended. Look for no-crown guard cases, gilt dials, and specific hand styles on early references.

Are original Rolex Submariners still water-resistant?

While originally designed for diving, the water resistance of a vintage Submariner is likely compromised due to age. Unless recently serviced and pressure-tested by a specialist, it is best to assume they are not reliably water-resistant and avoid submerging them.

What is the difference between a 5512 and a 5513 Submariner?

The key difference is that the Rolex Submariner 5512 was chronometer-certified, meaning its movement underwent rigorous testing for accuracy. The 5513 was not chronometer-certified, making it a slightly more affordable option. Early 5512s also had 4 lines of text on the dial, while the 5513 typically had 2 lines (though variations exist).

Where can I buy an original Rolex Submariner?

Reputable vintage watch dealers, established auction houses specializing in watches, and online marketplaces with strong buyer protection and authentication services are the best places to find original Rolex Submariners. Exercise extreme caution and due diligence when purchasing vintage Rolex watches.

Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of a Horological Icon

The original Rolex Submariner is more than just a vintage watch; it's a testament to Rolex's pioneering spirit, commitment to quality, and enduring design genius. From its humble beginnings as a tool watch for divers to its current status as a highly coveted collector's item, the Submariner's journey is a remarkable chapter in horological history. Owning an "original" Submariner is owning a piece of this legacy – a tangible link to a time when watches were instruments of exploration and adventure, and a timeless symbol of style and sophistication that continues to captivate watch enthusiasts around the world.