The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is more than just a luxury watch; it's a testament to the spirit of exploration, a tool forged for the extremes, and a symbol of enduring style. Born from Rolex's deep-rooted connection to the world of expeditions, the Explorer II has carved its own distinct path within the horological landscape, offering a unique blend of robust functionality and refined aesthetics. This article delves into the fascinating world of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, exploring its history, key features, variations, and why it remains a coveted timepiece for adventurers and discerning watch enthusiasts alike.
A Legacy of Exploration: The History of the Explorer II
To understand the Explorer II, we must first acknowledge its lineage. Rolex's association with exploration dates back to the early 20th century, outfitting expeditions to the Himalayas and beyond. The original Rolex Explorer, launched in 1953, was a direct result of this heritage, designed to be a reliable and legible companion in challenging environments. The Explorer II, introduced in 1971 with the Reference 1655, took this concept a step further, catering specifically to explorers venturing into environments where distinguishing day from night could be difficult, such as caves or polar regions.
The Birth of the Explorer II: Reference 1655 - "The Freccione"
The inaugural Explorer II, Reference 1655, was a bold departure from the original Explorer's understated design. Nicknamed "The Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") due to its prominent orange 24-hour hand, the 1655 was immediately recognizable. Key features included:
- Fixed 24-Hour Bezel: A hallmark of the Explorer II, the fixed bezel allowed the wearer to track a second time zone or, more importantly for its intended purpose, differentiate between AM and PM hours when daylight was absent.
- Orange 24-Hour Hand: This bold hand, coupled with the 24-hour bezel, pointed to the hour on the fixed bezel, providing a clear indication of time in a 24-hour format.
- Oyster Case: The robust Oyster case, a Rolex signature, ensured water resistance and protection against the elements.
- Caliber 1575 Movement: A reliable and accurate automatic movement, crucial for dependable timekeeping in demanding situations.
Despite its functional brilliance, the Reference 1655 was not initially a commercial success. Its unconventional design was perhaps ahead of its time, and it was often overshadowed by other Rolex sports models. However, in retrospect, the 1655 is now highly sought after by collectors for its rarity and unique character.
Evolution and Refinement: From the 16550 to the Modern 226570
Rolex continued to refine the Explorer II over the decades, introducing several iterations that built upon the foundation of the original. Key milestones include:
- Reference 16550 (1985): A significant update, the 16550 introduced a new movement (Caliber 3085) with independent hour hand adjustment, effectively adding a true GMT function. This reference also transitioned to a sapphire crystal and a more contemporary dial design, available in both black and white ("Polar") dial options.
- Reference 16570 (1989): Successor to the 16550, the 16570 continued the evolution with minor refinements over its production run. It remained in production for over two decades, becoming a beloved and versatile model. It saw movement upgrades over time, culminating in the Caliber 3185 and later the 3186.
- Reference 216570 (2011): Marking the 40th anniversary of the Explorer II, the 216570 brought a significant size increase to 42mm, a larger 24-hour hand reminiscent of the "Freccione," and the Caliber 3187 movement with Paraflex shock absorbers and Parachrom hairspring for enhanced robustness. This reference solidified the "Polar" dial as a signature Explorer II look.
- Reference 226570 (2021): The current generation Explorer II, the 226570, subtly refines the 216570. While maintaining the 42mm size, it features a redesigned case and bracelet, and most importantly, incorporates the cutting-edge Caliber 3285 movement, known for its improved efficiency, accuracy, and 70-hour power reserve.
Key Features and Technical Specifications of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
The Explorer II boasts a suite of features designed for reliability, legibility, and functionality in demanding environments. These elements, meticulously engineered by Rolex, contribute to its reputation as a high-performance tool watch.
The Oyster Case: Robustness and Water Resistance
At the heart of the Explorer II's durability is the Oyster case. Crafted from corrosion-resistant Oystersteel (Rolex's proprietary 904L stainless steel), the Oyster case is renowned for its strength and water resistance. The case construction, with its monobloc middle case, screw-down case back, and Triplock winding crown, ensures water resistance to 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for swimming and snorkeling, as well as protection against dust and shocks.
The Perpetual Rotor: Self-Winding Movement
The "Perpetual" in the name refers to Rolex's self-winding mechanism. The Explorer II is powered by a Perpetual rotor, a half-moon shaped oscillating weight that harnesses the wearer's wrist movements to wind the mainspring. This automatic winding system ensures continuous operation and reliable timekeeping without the need for manual winding, crucial for explorers in remote locations.
The 24-Hour Bezel and Hand: Time Zone Mastery and Day/Night Indication
The fixed 24-hour bezel and dedicated 24-hour hand are the defining features of the Explorer II. This combination serves two primary purposes:
- Second Time Zone: By setting the hour hand independently, the wearer can track a second time zone using the 24-hour hand and bezel. This is invaluable for travelers and those who need to monitor time in different locations.
- Day/Night Indication: In environments with prolonged darkness or daylight, the 24-hour hand provides a clear indication of whether it is AM or PM. A glance at the 24-hour hand against the fixed bezel immediately tells the wearer if it is day or night in their reference time zone.
Chromalight Display: Exceptional Legibility in Low Light
Rolex's Chromalight display ensures exceptional legibility even in the darkest conditions. The hour markers and hands are coated with a long-lasting luminescent material that emits a bright blue glow, providing superior readability compared to traditional green luminescence. This is a vital feature for explorers operating in caves, at night, or in other low-light environments.
Materials and Construction: Built to Last
Rolex's commitment to quality is evident in the materials and construction of the Explorer II. Beyond the Oystersteel case, it features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a robust Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock safety clasp and Easylink comfort extension link, allowing for easy adjustments in changing conditions. The movements are meticulously assembled and regulated, undergoing rigorous testing to ensure exceptional accuracy and reliability.
Why Choose an Explorer II? Target Audience and Appeal
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II appeals to a diverse group of individuals, drawn to its unique blend of functionality, history, and understated luxury. It's more than just a tool watch; it's a statement of purpose and a symbol of adventure.
The Adventurer's Companion: Practicality and Functionality
For those who value practicality and functionality, the Explorer II is a natural choice. Its robust construction, water resistance, 24-hour bezel, and exceptional legibility make it a reliable companion for outdoor pursuits, travel, and demanding professions. It's a watch built to withstand the rigors of exploration, whether physical or metaphorical.
A Statement of Understated Luxury: Versatility and Style
While undeniably a tool watch, the Explorer II also possesses a refined aesthetic that allows it to transition seamlessly from rugged adventures to everyday wear. Its understated design, particularly the "Polar" dial version, offers a unique and versatile style that stands apart from more overtly flashy luxury watches. It's a watch that speaks to quiet confidence and discerning taste.
Investment Potential and Collectibility: A Watch That Holds Value
Rolex watches, in general, are known for their strong resale value and investment potential. The Explorer II, particularly vintage references and well-maintained modern models, is no exception. Its enduring popularity and limited production contribute to its desirability in the pre-owned market, making it not only a pleasure to wear but also a potentially sound investment.
Explorer II Models: A Closer Look at Recent References
Let's briefly examine the two most recent Explorer II references, highlighting their key features and differences:
The Explorer II 216570 (Discontinued)
The 216570, produced from 2011 to 2021, is characterized by its 42mm case, larger hands and hour markers, and the Caliber 3187 movement. It is available in both black and "Polar" white dials. The 216570 marked a modern resurgence for the Explorer II, increasing its wrist presence and solidifying its place in Rolex's sports watch lineup. Though discontinued, it remains highly sought after in the pre-owned market.
The Explorer II 226570 (Current Production)
The current 226570, launched in 2021, is an evolution of the 216570. While retaining the 42mm size, it features subtle refinements to the case and bracelet design. The most significant upgrade is the incorporation of the Caliber 3285 movement, offering enhanced performance, a longer power reserve, and improved accuracy. The 226570 represents the pinnacle of the Explorer II lineage, combining heritage with cutting-edge watchmaking technology.
Owning and Caring for Your Explorer II
Owning a Rolex Explorer II is an experience to be savored. To ensure its longevity and optimal performance, proper care and maintenance are essential.
Maintenance and Servicing
Rolex recommends regular servicing of your Explorer II, typically every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Servicing should be performed by an authorized Rolex service center to ensure proper care and preservation of its warranty. Regular servicing includes cleaning, lubrication, and replacement of worn parts, ensuring the movement continues to function flawlessly.
Strap Options and Customization
While the Oyster bracelet is integral to the Explorer II's design, some owners explore alternative strap options to personalize their watch. Leather straps or NATO straps can offer a different aesthetic and feel, though it's crucial to use straps that are compatible with the watch's lug width and maintain its water resistance if desired.
Where to Buy: Authorized Dealers and the Pre-Owned Market
The best place to purchase a new Explorer II is from an authorized Rolex dealer (AD). However, due to high demand, availability can be limited. The pre-owned market offers a wider selection, but it's crucial to buy from reputable dealers or platforms to ensure authenticity and condition. When purchasing pre-owned, check for the watch's provenance, service history, and ensure it comes with original box and papers if possible.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
Q: What is the water resistance of the Rolex Explorer II?
A: The Rolex Explorer II is water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet).
Q: What is the function of the 24-hour bezel on the Explorer II?
A: The 24-hour bezel, along with the dedicated 24-hour hand, allows the wearer to track a second time zone and distinguish between AM and PM hours.
Q: What movements are used in the Explorer II?
A: Over its history, the Explorer II has used various Rolex movements, including the Caliber 1575, 3085, 3185, 3186, 3187, and currently the Caliber 3285.
Q: What is the "Polar" dial Explorer II?
A: The "Polar" dial Explorer II refers to models with a white dial, a signature and highly popular option for this watch.
Q: Is the Rolex Explorer II a good investment?
A: Rolex watches, including the Explorer II, often hold their value well and can appreciate over time, making them a potentially good investment, particularly well-maintained examples.
Q: What is the case size of the current Rolex Explorer II (226570)?
A: The current Rolex Explorer II (226570) has a 42mm case diameter.
Q: How often should I service my Rolex Explorer II?
A: Rolex recommends servicing your Explorer II every 5-10 years, depending on usage, at an authorized Rolex service center.
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II stands as a remarkable timepiece, embodying the spirit of adventure and precision that defines Rolex. From its origins as a tool for explorers to its modern iterations, it has consistently delivered exceptional functionality, robust reliability, and a distinctive style. Whether you are an avid adventurer, a discerning watch collector, or simply someone who appreciates exceptional engineering and timeless design, the Explorer II offers a compelling proposition. It's a watch that not only tells time but also tells a story – a story of exploration, innovation, and enduring excellence. The Explorer II is more than just a watch; it's a legacy on your wrist.
References and Sources:
- Rolex Official Website: www.rolex.com
- Hodinkee: www.hodinkee.com
- WatchTime: www.watchtime.com
- Fratello Watches: www.fratellowatches.com
- Revolution Watch: revolutionwatch.com