For watch enthusiasts and collectors, the Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a timepiece; it's a statement. Synonymous with sophistication, travel, and a touch of vintage charm, this iconic watch has cemented its place in horological history. This comprehensive article dives deep into the world of the Root Beer GMT Master II, exploring its history, design evolution, modern iterations, market value, and why it continues to captivate watch lovers worldwide.
A Legacy Rooted in Aviation and Style
The Rolex GMT Master was initially developed in the 1950s in collaboration with Pan American Airways pilots and crew. Its primary function was to display multiple time zones simultaneously, a crucial feature for intercontinental travelers. While the original GMT Master (reference 6542) featured a Bakelite bezel and a red and blue "Pepsi" bezel, the "Root Beer" variant emerged later, adding a distinct chapter to the GMT Master lineage.
The Birth of the "Root Beer" Nickname
The "Root Beer" moniker wasn't an official Rolex designation, but rather a nickname bestowed upon certain GMT Master models featuring brown and gold or brown and black bezels. These color combinations, reminiscent of the classic soda, quickly resonated with collectors and the public. The earliest iterations of the "Root Beer" bezel appeared on models like the GMT-Master 1675/3 in the 1970s, featuring a brown bezel insert paired with a two-tone steel and gold case. These vintage models are highly sought after today, embodying the retro charm and enduring appeal of the "Root Beer" aesthetic.
Evolution of the Root Beer GMT Master II
The GMT Master II, introduced in the early 1980s, brought significant advancements, including an independent hour hand that allowed for quick adjustment of the local time without stopping the watch or affecting the 24-hour hand. This innovation further solidified the GMT Master II's position as a practical tool watch for global travelers. The "Root Beer" theme continued to evolve within the GMT Master II family, appearing in various materials and configurations.
Vintage Root Beer GMT Master II Models: A Collector's Dream
Vintage "Root Beer" GMT Master II models, particularly those from the 1980s and 1990s, hold a special place in the hearts of collectors. References like the 16753 (two-tone steel and gold with a brown and gold bezel) and the 16713 (two-tone steel and gold with a brown and black bezel) are prized for their vintage charm, patina, and connection to a bygone era of Rolex design. These models often feature tritium dials that have aged beautifully, developing a warm, creamy patina that enhances their vintage appeal. Finding these vintage "Root Beer" models in good condition can be challenging, making them highly collectible and potentially valuable.
The Modern Root Beer GMT Master II: Reference 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR
Rolex reintroduced the "Root Beer" GMT Master II to its modern lineup in 2018 with the release of the reference 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR. These contemporary iterations pay homage to the vintage spirit of the "Root Beer" while incorporating modern materials, movements, and Rolex's cutting-edge technology.
Reference 126711CHNR: Rolesor Everose "Root Beer"
The reference 126711CHNR is crafted in Rolesor Everose, Rolex's term for combining Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold. This model features a stunning bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel with a two-color Cerachrom insert in brown and black ceramic. The bezel numerals and graduations are molded and then coated with gold using a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) process. The dial is a rich black, providing a striking contrast to the Everose gold hands and hour markers. The watch is powered by the Rolex caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Known for its precision, reliability, and robust performance, the caliber 3285 offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Reference 126715CHNR: 18 ct Everose Gold "Root Beer"
For those seeking ultimate luxury, the reference 126715CHNR is offered in full 18 ct Everose gold. This version shares the same brown and black Cerachrom bezel insert, black dial, and caliber 3285 movement as the Rolesor model. However, the full Everose gold construction elevates the watch to a new level of opulence and exclusivity. The 126715CHNR is a true statement piece, exuding warmth and sophistication.
Key Features and Technical Specifications
Both the 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR share several key features that contribute to their desirability and functionality:
- Oyster Case: The robust Oyster case, guaranteed waterproof to 100 meters (330 feet), provides optimal protection for the movement.
- Cerachrom Bezel Insert: The virtually scratchproof and fade-resistant Cerachrom bezel insert ensures the bezel remains pristine over time. The two-color design in brown and black is a hallmark of the "Root Beer" aesthetic.
- Cyclops Lens: The Cyclops lens over the date at 3 o'clock magnifies the date for enhanced readability, a signature Rolex design element.
- Chromalight Display: The dial features Chromalight hour markers and hands filled with luminescent material, providing long-lasting blue luminescence for excellent legibility in low-light conditions.
- Oyster Bracelet: Both models are fitted with the comfortable and secure Oyster bracelet, featuring the Easylink comfort extension link, allowing the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm.
- Caliber 3285 Movement: This state-of-the-art movement is at the heart of the modern "Root Beer" GMT Master II, ensuring exceptional performance and reliability.
Why the Root Beer GMT Master II is Highly Sought After
The enduring appeal of the Root Beer GMT Master II can be attributed to several factors:
- Iconic Design: The brown and black bezel, combined with the two-tone or full gold case, creates a distinctive and instantly recognizable aesthetic that stands out from other GMT Master II models.
- Versatility: While luxurious, the Root Beer GMT Master II is surprisingly versatile. It can be dressed up or down, making it suitable for both formal occasions and everyday wear.
- Rarity and Exclusivity: Rolex watches, in general, are highly sought after, and certain models, like the "Root Beer," often have limited availability, further increasing their desirability.
- Investment Potential: Rolex watches have historically held their value well and often appreciate over time, making them attractive investments. The Root Beer GMT Master II is no exception and is considered a strong performer in the pre-owned market.
- Nostalgia and Vintage Charm: The "Root Beer" nickname and aesthetic evoke a sense of nostalgia for vintage Rolex models, appealing to collectors who appreciate the heritage and history of the brand.
Wearing the Root Beer GMT Master II: Style Tips
The Root Beer GMT Master II is a versatile timepiece that can complement a variety of styles. Here are some style tips:
- Business Casual: The Rolesor Everose model (126711CHNR) pairs exceptionally well with business casual attire. Its subtle gold accents add a touch of sophistication without being overly ostentatious.
- Formal Occasions: The full Everose gold model (126715CHNR) is a perfect choice for formal events. Its luxurious presence elevates any formal ensemble.
- Casual Wear: Both models can be worn casually. The warm tones of the "Root Beer" bezel complement earth tones and denim, adding a touch of personality to casual outfits.
- Travel Companion: True to its original purpose, the GMT Master II is an ideal travel companion. Its dual time zone functionality and robust construction make it perfect for globetrotters.
- Accessorizing: Consider coordinating your Root Beer GMT Master II with brown leather accessories, such as belts and shoes, to enhance the overall look.
Purchasing a Root Beer GMT Master II
Acquiring a Root Beer GMT Master II, especially a new model, can be challenging due to high demand and limited supply. Here are some options:
- Authorized Rolex Dealers (ADs): The primary source for purchasing new Rolex watches is through Authorized Dealers. However, waitlists for popular models like the Root Beer GMT Master II can be lengthy. Building a relationship with an AD may improve your chances of acquiring one.
- Pre-Owned Market: The pre-owned market offers a wider selection of Root Beer GMT Master II models, including vintage and modern references. Reputable pre-owned dealers and online platforms specializing in luxury watches are good sources. Always ensure authenticity and purchase from trusted sources.
- Watch Auctions: Major watch auction houses occasionally feature Root Beer GMT Master II models. Auctions can be a source for rare or vintage pieces, but due diligence and expertise are essential when participating in auctions.
Maintaining Your Root Beer GMT Master II
To ensure your Root Beer GMT Master II remains in optimal condition and retains its value, proper maintenance is crucial:
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and mild soapy water to remove dirt and grime.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years by an authorized Rolex service center. Regular servicing ensures the movement functions correctly and prolongs the lifespan of your watch.
- Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe and dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch winder.
- Avoid Extreme Conditions: While Rolex watches are robust, avoid exposing your Root Beer GMT Master II to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, and harsh chemicals.
Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the Root Beer GMT Master II
The Rolex Root Beer GMT Master II is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of timeless style, horological innovation, and global exploration. From its vintage origins to its modern iterations, the "Root Beer" aesthetic has consistently captivated watch enthusiasts. Whether you are drawn to the vintage charm of the 16753 or the modern luxury of the 126715CHNR, the Root Beer GMT Master II offers a unique blend of functionality, sophistication, and enduring appeal. Its iconic design, robust construction, and investment potential make it a coveted timepiece for collectors and discerning individuals alike. The "Root Beer" continues to brew up desire in the world of horology, solidifying its place as a true Rolex icon.
FAQ: Common Questions about the Root Beer GMT Master II
What does "GMT" stand for?
GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, the time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London, historically used as the prime meridian of longitude and the basis of standard time throughout the world.
What is the function of the GMT hand?
The GMT hand, also known as the 24-hour hand, makes one full rotation of the dial every 24 hours, allowing you to track a second time zone using the 24-hour bezel.
Why is it called "Root Beer"?
The nickname "Root Beer" is derived from the brown and gold or brown and black bezel color combinations, which are reminiscent of the popular soda.
What is the bezel material on the modern Root Beer GMT Master II?
The bezel insert on the modern Root Beer GMT Master II is made of Cerachrom, Rolex's proprietary ceramic material, which is virtually scratchproof and fade-resistant.
Is the Root Beer GMT Master II a good investment?
Rolex watches, including the Root Beer GMT Master II, are generally considered good investments due to their strong brand reputation, limited production, and consistent demand. However, watch values can fluctuate, and past performance is not indicative of future results. Always do your own research and consider your personal enjoyment of the watch as the primary reason for purchasing.
How can I authenticate a Root Beer GMT Master II?
To authenticate a Root Beer GMT Master II, purchase from reputable sources like Authorized Dealers or trusted pre-owned dealers. Examine the watch closely for Rolex hallmarks, serial numbers, and movement details. Consider having the watch authenticated by a Rolex service center or a qualified watch expert if you have any doubts.
What is the power reserve of the Root Beer GMT Master II?
The modern Root Beer GMT Master II, powered by the caliber 3285 movement, has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
References and Sources
- Rolex Official Website
- Hodinkee - Leading watch website
- Fratello Watches - Watch blog and magazine
- Phillips Watches - Auction house specializing in watches
- Christie's Watches - Auction house specializing in watches