The Rolex Submariner. The name itself conjures images of deep-sea exploration, timeless style, and horological excellence. While the all-steel Submariner often takes center stage as the quintessential tool watch, there's a sophisticated sibling that deserves equal, if not more, attention: the two-tone Rolex Submariner. This stunning iteration, often crafted in Rolex's signature "Rolesor" combination of Oystersteel and gold, elevates the Submariner from purely functional instrument to a statement of refined taste and enduring value. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve deep into the world of the two-tone Submariner, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it remains a coveted timepiece for watch enthusiasts and style-conscious individuals alike.
A Legacy Forged in Steel and Gold: The History of the Two-Tone Submariner
The Submariner, first launched in 1953, was initially conceived as a professional diver's watch. However, Rolex, known for its innovative spirit and understanding of evolving tastes, recognized the potential for the Submariner to transcend its tool-watch origins. While precise records are debated among historians, the introduction of precious metals and two-tone configurations in the Submariner line began to solidify in the late 1960s and early 1970s. This marked a significant shift, transforming the Submariner into a more versatile and luxurious timepiece.
The "Rolesor" concept, Rolex's term for combining gold and Oystersteel, is central to the two-tone Submariner's identity. Rolesor is not merely about aesthetics; it's about leveraging the strengths of both materials. Oystersteel, renowned for its robustness, corrosion resistance, and durability, forms the core structure, ensuring the watch's tool-watch integrity. Gold, typically 18k yellow or Everose (Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy), adds a touch of opulence, warmth, and prestige. This harmonious blend created a watch that was both rugged and refined, appealing to a broader audience beyond professional divers.
Over the decades, the two-tone Submariner has evolved alongside its all-steel counterpart, adopting technical advancements and design refinements. From the early models with acrylic crystals and aluminum bezels to the modern iterations featuring scratch-resistant ceramic (Cerachrom) bezels and robust sapphire crystals, the two-tone Submariner has consistently upheld Rolex's commitment to innovation and quality. Key milestones in its evolution include:
- Early Two-Tone Models (1960s-1970s): These pioneering models laid the foundation for the two-tone Submariner aesthetic, often featuring yellow gold accents and matte dials.
- Introduction of Sapphire Crystal and Improved Movements (1980s-1990s): These upgrades enhanced the durability and precision of the two-tone Submariner, solidifying its position as a high-performance luxury watch.
- Cerachrom Bezel and Maxi Case Era (2000s-2010s): The introduction of the Cerachrom bezel, virtually scratchproof and fade-resistant, along with the "Maxi Case" with broader lugs and crown guards, brought a more contemporary and robust feel to the two-tone Submariner.
- Current Generation (2020 onwards): The latest generation features refined proportions, updated movements like the Caliber 3235, and subtle design tweaks while retaining the core DNA of the iconic two-tone aesthetic.
Decoding the Design: Key Features of the Two-Tone Submariner
The two-tone Rolex Submariner is instantly recognizable, thanks to its distinctive design language. Let's break down the key elements that contribute to its enduring appeal:
The Rolesor Combination: A Symphony of Materials
As mentioned earlier, the "Rolesor" combination is the heart of the two-tone aesthetic. Typically, the center links of the Oyster bracelet, the bezel, and the crown are crafted from 18k gold, while the case and outer bracelet links are made of Oystersteel. This creates a visually striking contrast and a luxurious feel without being overly ostentatious. Rolex offers two primary Rolesor variations:
- Yellow Rolesor: Combining Oystersteel with 18k yellow gold, this is the classic and most recognizable two-tone Submariner configuration, exuding warmth and traditional elegance.
- Everose Rolesor: Featuring Oystersteel and 18k Everose gold (Rolex's proprietary rose gold), this variation offers a more modern and subtle touch of luxury with its pinkish hue.
The Iconic Submariner Case and Bezel
The Submariner's Oyster case, typically 40mm or 41mm in diameter (depending on the generation), is renowned for its robustness and water resistance. Crafted from Oystersteel, it provides a solid foundation for the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, crucial for divers to track elapsed time, is a defining feature. In two-tone models, the bezel is often gold or gold-plated, with a Cerachrom (ceramic) insert in various colors, most commonly black or blue. The Cerachrom bezel is not only incredibly scratch-resistant but also fade-proof, ensuring lasting beauty and functionality.
The Dial: Legibility and Refinement
Submariner dials are designed for maximum legibility, a critical requirement for diving. Two-tone models typically feature:
- Luminous Markers: Large, easily legible hour markers filled with Chromalight, Rolex's long-lasting blue luminescence, ensure excellent visibility in low-light conditions.
- Mercedes Hands: The signature "Mercedes" hour hand, another iconic Submariner design element, is present in two-tone models, often with gold surrounds.
- Date or No-Date Options: Two-tone Submariners are available with or without a date window at 3 o'clock, offering a choice based on personal preference. The date version features the Cyclops lens for enhanced readability.
- Dial Colors: While black dials are the most classic and prevalent, two-tone Submariners are also offered with striking blue dials, adding a vibrant and nautical touch.
The Oyster Bracelet: Comfort and Security
The Oyster bracelet, a Rolex hallmark, is known for its comfort, durability, and secure fit. In two-tone Submariners, the bracelet features Rolesor construction, with gold center links and Oystersteel outer links. It typically includes:
- Oysterlock Clasp: A robust and secure clasp, often with a Glidelock extension system for fine adjustments over a wetsuit or for comfort during temperature changes.
- Solid End Links: Seamlessly integrating the bracelet with the case, solid end links enhance the watch's overall robustness and aesthetic integration.
The Movement: Precision and Reliability
At the heart of every Rolex Submariner lies a high-precision, self-winding mechanical movement. Current two-tone Submariners are powered by the Caliber 3235 (for date models) or Caliber 3230 (for no-date models). These movements are entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, boasting exceptional accuracy, reliability, and robustness. They feature:
- Chronometer Certification: Officially certified as chronometers by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), guaranteeing superior precision.
- Parachrom Hairspring: Offering greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations, enhancing the movement's overall performance and stability.
- High Power Reserve: Providing approximately 70 hours of power reserve, allowing the watch to run for nearly three days without winding.
Why Choose a Two-Tone Rolex Submariner? The Appeal and Versatility
The two-tone Rolex Submariner holds a unique position in the watch world, appealing to a diverse range of individuals. Here's why it's such a compelling choice:
The Perfect Balance of Sport and Luxury
It embodies the ideal blend of rugged tool watch functionality and refined luxury aesthetics. It's a watch that can seamlessly transition from a dive in the ocean to a formal evening event. The steel ensures durability and practicality, while the gold elevates the watch to a level of sophistication that all-steel models may not fully capture.
A Statement of Style and Discretion
While gold watches can sometimes be perceived as overtly flashy, the two-tone Submariner strikes a more balanced and understated note. The gold accents add a touch of elegance and prestige without being overly ostentatious. It signals discerning taste and appreciation for quality without being overly attention-seeking.
Versatility Across Occasions
Its versatility is a major draw. It pairs equally well with casual attire like jeans and a t-shirt as it does with business suits or smart-casual ensembles. Whether you're in the boardroom, at a beachside cafe, or exploring a new city, the two-tone Submariner is a watch that always looks appropriate and stylish.
A Touch of Warmth and Character
The gold accents, particularly in yellow Rolesor, bring a warmth and richness to the watch that steel alone cannot achieve. It adds character and depth to the design, making it more visually interesting and appealing to many.
Investment Potential and Enduring Value
Rolex watches, in general, are known for their strong resale value and investment potential. Two-tone Submariners are no exception. While market fluctuations can occur, well-maintained two-tone Submariners tend to hold their value remarkably well, and in some cases, appreciate over time, especially vintage or discontinued models. This makes them not just a purchase of passion but also a potentially sound financial asset.
Popular Two-Tone Submariner Models: A Closer Look
Within the two-tone Submariner family, several models have gained particular popularity and recognition:
- Rolex Submariner 126613LN (Black Dial, Black Bezel): The current generation yellow Rolesor model with a black dial and black Cerachrom bezel. A modern classic that embodies the essence of the two-tone Submariner.
- Rolex Submariner 116613LB (Blue Dial, Blue Bezel): The previous generation yellow Rolesor model with a vibrant blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel, affectionately nicknamed the "Bluesy." Highly sought after for its striking color combination.
- Rolex Submariner 126613LB (Blue Dial, Blue Bezel): The current generation "Bluesy" with updated case proportions and Caliber 3235 movement.
- Vintage Two-Tone Submariners (References like 1680/3, 16613): Older references with acrylic crystals and aluminum bezels hold a vintage charm and are increasingly collectible.
When choosing a two-tone Submariner, consider your personal style preferences regarding dial and bezel colors, as well as your desired generation (vintage, previous, or current) based on design and technical features.
Caring for Your Two-Tone Rolex Submariner
To ensure your two-tone Submariner remains in pristine condition and maintains its value, proper care and maintenance are essential:
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and mild soapy water to remove dirt, dust, and oils. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and dry gently.
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Exposure to harsh chemicals, solvents, and perfumes can damage the gold and steel components. Avoid wearing your watch when handling such substances.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends professional servicing every 5-10 years, depending on usage. This ensures the movement remains in optimal working order and includes thorough cleaning and inspection.
- Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe, dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch case, to protect it from scratches and dust.
- Be Mindful of Scratches: While Oystersteel is durable, gold is softer and more prone to scratches. Exercise reasonable care to avoid impacts and abrasive surfaces.
Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the Two-Tone Rolex Submariner
The two-tone Rolex Submariner is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of enduring style, versatility, and horological excellence. It successfully marries the robust functionality of a tool watch with the refined elegance of precious metals, creating a timepiece that is both practical and luxurious. Whether you're drawn to its rich history, its iconic design, its investment potential, or simply its undeniable aesthetic appeal, the two-tone Submariner remains a coveted and timeless watch that will continue to grace wrists and captivate watch enthusiasts for generations to come. It's a testament to Rolex's mastery of blending materials, design, and engineering to create watches that transcend trends and become true icons.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Two-Tone Rolex Submariners
Is a two-tone Rolex Submariner a good investment?
Yes, generally speaking, Rolex watches, including two-tone Submariners, tend to hold their value well and can be considered a good investment. However, market conditions and specific models can influence value. Vintage and well-maintained models, especially those with original boxes and papers, often perform best.
Is a two-tone Submariner less sporty than an all-steel model?
While some purists might argue that all-steel Submariners are more purely "tool watches," the two-tone Submariner retains all the functionality and robustness of the steel version. The addition of gold enhances its aesthetic appeal and versatility, making it suitable for a wider range of occasions without compromising its sporty DNA.
How much does a two-tone Rolex Submariner cost?
The retail price of a new two-tone Rolex Submariner varies depending on the specific model and materials. As of the current market (2023), retail prices typically start around $15,000 USD and can go higher. However, due to high demand and limited availability, you may often need to purchase from the grey market at prices above retail.
What is "Rolesor" in Rolex watches?
"Rolesor" is Rolex's term for the combination of gold and Oystersteel in their watches. It represents a harmonious blend of the strength and reliability of Oystersteel with the prestige and beauty of gold, creating a distinctive and luxurious aesthetic.
Can I wear a two-tone Submariner for diving?
Yes, absolutely. Like all Submariners, two-tone models are designed to be functional diving watches and are water-resistant to 300 meters (1000 feet). They are perfectly capable of withstanding the pressures and conditions of recreational diving.
How do I authenticate a two-tone Rolex Submariner?
Authenticating a Rolex requires careful examination of various details, including the dial, case, bracelet, movement, and engravings. It's best to purchase from authorized Rolex dealers or reputable pre-owned watch sellers. For pre-owned watches, consider having them authenticated by a Rolex service center or a qualified watch expert.
