The Rolex Explorer II. Often overshadowed by its more famous siblings like the Submariner or GMT-Master II, this robust and functional timepiece deserves its own spotlight. For those in the know, the Explorer II isn't just a watch; it's a tool, a companion built for exploration, and a testament to Rolex's commitment to durability and precision. In this comprehensive Rolex Explorer II review, we'll delve deep into what makes this watch so special, examining its history, design, functionality, and ultimately, whether it's the right choice for you.

From its origins rooted in caving expeditions to its modern iterations gracing the wrists of adventurers and discerning watch enthusiasts alike, the Explorer II has carved its own unique path. This isn't just another luxury watch; it's a purpose-built instrument, designed to perform in demanding environments. Join us as we explore the nuances of the Rolex Explorer II, uncovering its strengths, acknowledging its weaknesses, and providing you with the actionable insights you need to make an informed decision.

A Legacy of Exploration: Tracing the Explorer II's History

To truly appreciate the Explorer II, understanding its heritage is crucial. Born in 1971, the original Rolex Explorer II (Reference 1655) emerged as a specialized evolution of the Rolex Explorer. While the Explorer was designed for general exploration and mountaineering, the Explorer II was specifically conceived for polar explorers and speleologists (cave explorers). These environments presented unique challenges, particularly the lack of day/night distinction in polar regions and perpetual darkness in caves.

The key innovation of the 1655 was the addition of a fixed 24-hour bezel and an extra 24-hour hand. This crucial feature allowed explorers to track day and night in environments where the sun might not rise for months or where natural light is absent. The "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") orange 24-hour hand on the original model became a defining characteristic, instantly recognizable and highly functional.

Over the decades, the Explorer II has evolved through several iterations, each refining and improving upon the original concept:

  • Reference 1655 (1971-1984): The original "Freccione" with its distinctive orange hand and fixed bezel. Collectible and highly sought-after today.
  • Reference 16550 (1985-1989): A transitional model featuring the new Caliber 3085 movement with independent GMT hand setting and a sapphire crystal. Offered in both black and white "Polar" dials. Often prone to "spider-webbing" dial defects in early models, adding to their unique character for some collectors.
  • Reference 16570 (1989-2011): A long-running and popular reference, refining the 16550 with the Caliber 3185 and later the 3186 movements. Maintained the 40mm case size and offered in black and white dials. A robust and reliable workhorse.
  • Reference 216570 (2011-2021): Marked a significant update with a larger 42mm case, "Maxi case" design, and the Caliber 3187 movement. Brought back the larger orange 24-hour hand, echoing the original 1655.
  • Reference 226570 (2021-Present): The current generation, featuring the updated Caliber 3285 movement (renowned for its efficiency and performance), refined case proportions, and subtle design tweaks. Maintains the 42mm size and continues the legacy of the Explorer II.

This historical progression demonstrates Rolex's continuous dedication to improving the Explorer II, ensuring it remains a relevant and high-performing tool watch for modern explorers and enthusiasts.

Design and Features: Form Follows Function

The Rolex Explorer II's design is a masterclass in functional aesthetics. Every element is carefully considered to enhance legibility, durability, and usability in challenging conditions.

The Case and Bezel: Built to Endure

Crafted from Rolex's signature 904L stainless steel (now referred to as Oystersteel), the Explorer II's case is incredibly robust and resistant to corrosion. The fixed 24-hour bezel, also made of Oystersteel, is a key distinguishing feature. Its engraved numerals are deeply etched and filled with black enamel (or PVD coating in newer models) for excellent contrast and readability. The bezel's fixed nature reinforces its role as a functional tool for tracking a second time zone or day/night cycle, rather than a rotating timing bezel.

The case size has evolved over time. The original 1655 and subsequent 16570 maintained a 40mm diameter, a classic and versatile size. The 216570 and current 226570 models increased the size to 42mm, offering a more contemporary wrist presence and enhanced legibility, particularly for the dial and hands.

Water resistance is a crucial aspect of any explorer's watch. The Explorer II boasts a water resistance of 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for swimming and snorkeling, though not specifically designed for deep-sea diving like the Submariner.

The Dial and Hands: Legibility is Paramount

Dial legibility is paramount in a tool watch, and the Explorer II excels in this area. Available in both black and "Polar" white (actually off-white/cream) dial options, the Explorer II offers excellent contrast in various lighting conditions. The "Maxi dial" introduced in later references features larger hour markers and hands, further enhancing readability, especially in low-light environments.

Rolex's Chromalight luminescent material is applied to the hour markers and hands, providing a long-lasting blue glow in darkness. This is a significant improvement over older tritium or Super-LumiNova, offering superior brightness and longevity. The iconic 24-hour hand, often orange in modern iterations and black or red in earlier models, is instantly recognizable and crucial for its intended function.

The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and durability even in demanding situations. A cyclops lens at 3 o'clock magnifies the date, improving its readability – a practical feature for everyday wear and exploration.

The Bracelet and Clasp: Comfort and Security

The Explorer II is typically fitted with Rolex's iconic Oyster bracelet. This three-link bracelet is renowned for its robustness, comfort, and security. Made from Oystersteel, it's designed to withstand daily wear and tear while remaining comfortable on the wrist. The brushed finish on the bracelet and case contributes to the watch's tool-watch aesthetic and helps to minimize scratches and reflections.

The Oysterlock clasp, with its folding design and safety catch, ensures the watch stays securely fastened to the wrist, even during vigorous activity. The Easylink comfort extension system, found in modern Explorer II models, allows for quick and easy adjustments of approximately 5mm, accommodating changes in wrist size throughout the day due to temperature or activity levels. This is a small but highly appreciated feature for everyday wear.

The Movement: Precision and Reliability

At the heart of the Rolex Explorer II lies a high-performance, self-winding mechanical movement. Currently, the 226570 is powered by the Caliber 3285, a cutting-edge movement developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex. This movement boasts a Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency, a Parachrom hairspring for greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations, and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Earlier references utilized Calibers 3185, 3186, and 3187, all renowned for their robustness and reliability. Each Explorer II movement is a certified Superlative Chronometer, guaranteeing exceptional precision and performance, exceeding COSC standards. This commitment to movement quality ensures the Explorer II is not just durable but also a highly accurate timekeeping instrument.

Functionality and Utility: More Than Just a Pretty Face

The Rolex Explorer II's functionality extends far beyond simply telling time. It's a tool watch designed for specific purposes, offering features that are genuinely useful in various situations:

  • 24-Hour Bezel and Hand: The core function, allowing for the tracking of a second time zone or distinguishing AM/PM in environments with no natural day/night cues. Essential for travelers, pilots, and explorers in polar regions or caves.
  • GMT Functionality: While not explicitly a "GMT-Master," the Explorer II effectively offers GMT capability. The 24-hour hand can be set independently to track a second time zone, while the main hour hand remains set to local time.
  • Robust Construction: Built to withstand shocks, impacts, and extreme temperatures. The Oystersteel case, sapphire crystal, and robust movement ensure durability in demanding environments.
  • High Legibility: Large indices, luminous markers, and contrasting dial colors guarantee excellent readability in all lighting conditions, from bright sunlight to complete darkness.
  • Date Function: A practical everyday feature, essential for keeping track of time during extended expeditions or simply in daily life.

These features, combined with Rolex's legendary reliability, make the Explorer II a truly functional and versatile tool watch, suitable for both adventurous pursuits and everyday wear.

Pros and Cons: Weighing the Explorer II

Pros

  • Exceptional Durability and Robustness: Built to withstand demanding conditions.
  • Excellent Legibility: Clear dial and luminous markers for readability in any light.
  • GMT Functionality: Tracks a second time zone, useful for travel.
  • Iconic and Purposeful Design: A distinctive and functional aesthetic.
  • High-Quality Movement: Superlative Chronometer certification for accuracy and reliability.
  • Comfortable Oyster Bracelet: Secure and comfortable for daily wear.
  • Versatility: Suitable for both adventurous activities and everyday wear.
  • Investment Potential: Rolex watches generally hold their value well.

Cons

  • Price: Rolex watches are a significant investment.
  • Availability: Can be difficult to purchase at retail, often requiring waitlists.
  • Fixed Bezel: While functional, the fixed bezel lacks the versatility of a rotating timing bezel found on dive watches.
  • Larger Size (42mm current models): May be too large for some wrists, although 40mm vintage options exist.
  • Less Iconic Than Other Rolex Models: May not have the same widespread recognition as the Submariner or GMT-Master II.

Who is the Rolex Explorer II For?

The Rolex Explorer II is ideal for:

  • Adventurers and Explorers: Its robust build, GMT function, and legibility make it a perfect companion for travel, hiking, and outdoor activities.
  • Travelers: The GMT functionality is incredibly useful for tracking time across different zones.
  • Watch Enthusiasts: Appreciate its unique history, functional design, and Rolex quality.
  • Those Seeking a Durable and Reliable Everyday Watch: Its robust construction and versatile design make it suitable for daily wear.
  • Collectors: Certain Explorer II references, particularly vintage models like the 1655, are highly collectible.

If you value functionality, durability, and a distinctive tool-watch aesthetic, the Rolex Explorer II is a compelling choice.

Market and Value: Investing in an Explorer II

The Rolex Explorer II's market value, like most Rolex sports models, has seen significant appreciation in recent years. Retail prices for new models are set by Rolex, but due to high demand and limited supply, they are often difficult to purchase at authorized dealers without waitlists. This has led to a thriving grey market where prices can be significantly higher than retail.

Vintage and pre-owned Explorer II models, particularly well-preserved examples of references 1655, 16550, and 16570, are also highly sought after and command strong prices in the secondary market. The Explorer II, like many Rolex sports watches, is often considered a sound investment, as its value tends to hold or increase over time, especially for desirable references and configurations.

When considering purchasing an Explorer II, it's essential to research current market prices, understand the condition of the watch (if pre-owned), and buy from reputable sources to ensure authenticity.

Alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II

While the Rolex Explorer II is a unique watch, several alternatives offer similar functionality or style:

  • Rolex GMT-Master II: Another Rolex GMT watch with a rotating 24-hour bezel, offering greater versatility for tracking multiple time zones and elapsed time. Generally more expensive and harder to obtain than the Explorer II.
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT: A robust and capable GMT dive watch from Omega, offering a similar tool-watch aesthetic and functionality at a potentially lower price point.
  • Tudor Black Bay Pro: A more affordable alternative from Rolex's sister brand, Tudor, offering a vintage-inspired GMT design with excellent build quality and value.
  • Grand Seiko GMT Models: Offer exceptional finishing, precision, and unique designs with GMT functionality, often at a comparable or higher price point than the Explorer II, depending on the model.

Exploring these alternatives can help you determine if the Explorer II is truly the best fit for your needs and preferences.

In conclusion, the Rolex Explorer II is a remarkable timepiece that stands as a testament to Rolex's commitment to functionality, durability, and precision. While it may not possess the same widespread fame as some of its Rolex siblings, the Explorer II offers a unique blend of robust tool-watch capabilities and understated elegance. Its history rooted in exploration, its practical features like the 24-hour bezel and GMT functionality, and its unwavering reliability make it a compelling choice for adventurers, travelers, and discerning watch enthusiasts alike.

While the price and availability can be barriers to entry, the Rolex Explorer II represents a worthwhile investment in a high-quality, iconic timepiece that will provide years of reliable service and enjoyment. If you're seeking a watch that can handle the rigors of exploration and everyday life with equal aplomb, the Explorer II deserves serious consideration. It's more than just a watch; it's a legacy of adventure on your wrist.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the Rolex Explorer II

What is the purpose of the 24-hour hand and bezel on the Explorer II?

The 24-hour hand and fixed bezel allow the wearer to track a second time zone or distinguish between AM and PM in environments where day and night are indistinguishable, such as polar regions or caves. It can also be used to quickly read a 24-hour time format.

Is the Rolex Explorer II a GMT watch?

Yes, while not officially named "GMT-Master," the Explorer II functions as a GMT watch. The independent 24-hour hand can be set to a different time zone while the main hour hand tracks local time.

What is the water resistance of the Rolex Explorer II?

The Rolex Explorer II has a water resistance of 100 meters (330 feet), suitable for swimming and snorkeling but not deep-sea diving.

What is the current price of a new Rolex Explorer II?

Retail prices vary by region, but you can check the official Rolex website for the most up-to-date Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP). However, due to high demand, actual market prices, especially on the grey market, may be higher.

Is the Rolex Explorer II a good investment?

Rolex watches, including the Explorer II, generally hold their value well and often appreciate over time, especially desirable references. However, watch investments are subject to market fluctuations and should be considered carefully.

What are the different dial colors available for the Rolex Explorer II?

The Rolex Explorer II is typically available with either a black dial or a "Polar" white dial (which is often more of an off-white or cream color).

What is the case size of the Rolex Explorer II?

Current production models (Reference 226570) have a 42mm case diameter. Earlier references (1655, 16550, 16570) had a 40mm case size.

References and Further Reading

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