The Rolex Explorer II. Often overshadowed by its more glamorous siblings like the Submariner and GMT-Master II, this robust and functional timepiece holds a unique position in the Rolex lineup. While it might not be the first model that springs to mind when you think of Rolex, the Explorer II boasts a rich history, exceptional durability, and a distinctive design that has earned it a dedicated following among watch enthusiasts and adventurers alike. In this comprehensive review, we'll delve into the intricacies of the Rolex Explorer II, exploring its history, design, functionality, and why it deserves a place in the conversation when discussing iconic Rolex watches.

A Legacy of Exploration: Introducing the Rolex Explorer II

To truly appreciate the Explorer II, it's essential to understand its roots. The "Explorer" lineage within Rolex began with watches designed for and tested in demanding environments. The original Rolex Explorer, launched in 1953, was directly linked to the successful ascent of Mount Everest, solidifying Rolex's association with exploration and resilience. The Explorer II, introduced in 1971 with the reference 1655, took this concept a step further, catering to the needs of speleologists (cave explorers) and polar explorers who operated in environments where distinguishing day from night could be challenging.

The Genesis of the Explorer Line

The first Explorer models were built on the foundation of Rolex's already proven Oyster Perpetual watches, emphasizing legibility, robustness, and reliability. They were designed to be tools, prioritizing function above all else. This ethos carried over to the Explorer II, which was conceived as a specialized instrument for extreme environments.

Stepping into the Light (or Lack Thereof): The Explorer II's Debut

The reference 1655 Explorer II, nicknamed the "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") due to its prominent orange 24-hour hand, was a significant departure from the original Explorer's minimalist aesthetic. It featured a fixed 24-hour bezel and an additional 24-hour hand linked to the main hour hand. This innovation allowed the wearer to track a second time zone or, more crucially for cave explorers, to distinguish AM from PM in perpetually dark environments. While initially not as commercially successful as other Rolex sports models, the 1655 has since become a highly sought-after vintage piece, appreciated for its unique design and historical significance.

Decoding the Design: Features and Functionality

The Rolex Explorer II is more than just a pretty face; it's a carefully engineered instrument built for purpose. Let's break down the key design elements and functionalities that define this exceptional timepiece.

The Robust Case and Bracelet

Like all Rolex Oyster Professional watches, the Explorer II features a robust Oyster case, typically crafted from 904L Oystersteel (now often referred to as Oystersteel). This material is renowned for its exceptional corrosion resistance and ability to maintain its polish. The case size has evolved over the years, starting at 40mm with the 1655 and 16570, increasing to 42mm with the 216570, and remaining at 42mm for the current 226570. The Oyster bracelet, also in Oystersteel, is known for its durability and comfort. It features solid links and a secure Oysterlock clasp, ensuring the watch remains securely fastened even in demanding conditions. The bracelet's brushed finish complements the tool-watch aesthetic, minimizing reflections and scratches.

The Iconic 24-Hour Bezel and Hand

The fixed 24-hour bezel is a defining characteristic of the Explorer II. Originally made from stainless steel, it's now often ceramic (Cerachrom) in modern iterations, offering even greater scratch resistance. Paired with the dedicated 24-hour hand, this bezel allows the wearer to read the time in a 24-hour format. While primarily designed for distinguishing AM/PM, this functionality also serves as a basic second time zone indicator. The 24-hour hand completes one rotation every 24 hours, pointing to the fixed bezel to indicate the hour in a 24-hour format. This is particularly useful for travelers or anyone needing to track time in different time zones or environments where day and night cycles are disrupted.

The Powerhouse Movement: Caliber 3285 (and its predecessors)

At the heart of the modern Rolex Explorer II (reference 226570) lies the Caliber 3285, a movement developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex. This self-winding mechanical movement is at the forefront of watchmaking technology, offering exceptional precision, reliability, and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. It incorporates a Chronergy escapement, optimized for energy efficiency and magnetic resistance, and a Parachrom hairspring, offering greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations. Older Explorer II models utilized earlier Rolex movements, such as the Caliber 3185, 3186, and 3187, all known for their robustness and dependability. Rolex movements are renowned for their longevity and require relatively infrequent servicing when properly maintained.

Luminous Display and Legibility

Legibility is paramount for a watch designed for exploration, and the Explorer II excels in this area. The dial features large, highly legible hour markers and hands, generously filled with Chromalight luminous material. This proprietary Rolex lume emits a long-lasting blue glow in low-light conditions, ensuring excellent readability even in complete darkness. The contrast between the white gold hour markers and hands against the black dial (or white dial in some models) further enhances legibility in all lighting conditions.

Oysterlock Clasp and Comfort

The Oyster bracelet is secured by the Oysterlock clasp, a robust and reliable folding clasp designed to prevent accidental opening. Many modern Explorer II models also feature the Easylink comfort extension link, allowing the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5mm without tools. This is particularly useful for adjusting the fit over a wetsuit or accommodating wrist swelling in varying temperatures. The overall design of the bracelet and clasp prioritizes comfort and security, ensuring the watch remains comfortable for extended wear, whether on an adventure or in everyday life.

On the Wrist: Wearing the Explorer II in Real Life

Beyond its technical specifications, the Rolex Explorer II is a watch that truly comes alive on the wrist. It's a versatile timepiece that seamlessly transitions from rugged outdoor adventures to more formal settings.

Versatility and Style

While undeniably a sports watch, the Explorer II possesses a subtle elegance that allows it to be worn in a variety of situations. Its stainless steel construction and clean lines lend themselves well to both casual and smart-casual attire. While perhaps not as dressy as a Datejust or Day-Date, the Explorer II can certainly hold its own in more formal settings, particularly for those who appreciate a touch of understated ruggedness. The choice of black or white dial further enhances its versatility. The black dial offers a classic, tool-watch aesthetic, while the white "polar" dial provides a more contemporary and distinctive look.

Comfort and Wearability

Despite its robust construction, the Explorer II is surprisingly comfortable to wear. The Oyster bracelet conforms well to the wrist, and the overall weight is well-balanced. The 42mm case size of the modern models is considered a sweet spot for many wrist sizes, offering a substantial presence without being overly bulky. While some with smaller wrists might find the 42mm a bit large, the earlier 40mm models (16570) offer a more compact and equally compelling option. The Easylink extension system further enhances comfort by allowing for on-the-fly adjustments.

Durability and Everyday Use

The Explorer II is built to withstand the rigors of daily wear and more. Its robust Oyster case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and durable bracelet make it a watch that can handle bumps, knocks, and the elements. Whether you're navigating city streets, hiking trails, or exploring new destinations, the Explorer II is a reliable companion. Its water resistance of 100 meters (330 feet) provides ample protection for swimming and watersports, although it's not specifically designed for deep-sea diving like the Submariner.

The Explorer II Family: Generations and Models

The Rolex Explorer II has evolved through several iterations since its introduction. Understanding the different references can help you appreciate the model's history and choose the version that best suits your preferences.

Vintage Charm: The 1655 "Freccione"

The original reference 1655, produced from 1971 to 1985, is a true vintage icon. Its distinctive "Freccione" orange 24-hour hand, matte black dial, and unique bezel font set it apart. These early Explorer II models are highly collectible and represent a significant piece of Rolex history.

The Modern Classic: The 16570

The reference 16570, produced from 1989 to 2011, is considered by many to be the quintessential Explorer II. It retained the 40mm case size but introduced a more conventional Mercedes-style hour hand and a sapphire crystal. The 16570 is available with both black and white "polar" dials and is praised for its balanced proportions and timeless design. It's often seen as a sweet spot in the Explorer II lineage, offering modern reliability with a classic aesthetic.

The Maxi Case Era: The 216570

In 2011, Rolex introduced the reference 216570, marking a significant update. The case size increased to 42mm, and the watch featured a "maxi case" with broader lugs and crown guards. The 24-hour hand was enlarged and returned to an orange color (on the black dial version), paying homage to the original 1655. The 216570 offered a more contemporary and robust feel while retaining the core Explorer II DNA.

The Current Generation: The 226570

The current reference 226570, released in 2021, represents the latest evolution of the Explorer II. While maintaining the 42mm case size, it features subtle refinements to the case and bracelet proportions. Most significantly, it is powered by the updated Caliber 3285 movement, offering improved performance and a longer power reserve. The 226570 represents the pinnacle of modern Rolex technology and design within the Explorer II line.

Pros and Cons: Is the Explorer II Right for You?

Like any watch, the Rolex Explorer II has its strengths and weaknesses. Weighing these pros and cons can help you determine if it's the right timepiece for your wrist.

Pros:

• Robust and Durable: Built to withstand demanding conditions, the Explorer II is a true tool watch.
• GMT Functionality: The 24-hour bezel and hand offer practical second time zone capability.
• Excellent Legibility: Chromalight lume and clear dial layout ensure readability in all conditions.
• Versatile Style: Suitable for both casual and smart-casual wear.
• Rolex Quality and Reliability: Backed by Rolex's reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and longevity.
• Potentially Underrated Value: Compared to some other Rolex sports models, the Explorer II can offer relatively better value on the pre-owned market (though prices are still substantial).
• Historical Significance: Part of the iconic Rolex Explorer lineage with a unique history.

Cons:

• Price: As a Rolex, the Explorer II is a significant investment.
• Availability: Demand often exceeds supply, making it challenging to purchase from authorized dealers.
• Size (for some): The 42mm case of modern models might be too large for smaller wrists.
• Less "Flashy" than some Rolexes: The Explorer II is more understated than some other Rolex sports models, which might be a con for those seeking a more attention-grabbing watch.
• Fixed Bezel: The fixed 24-hour bezel is less versatile than a rotating bezel found on GMT-Master II or Submariner for timing purposes.

The Explorer II in the Market: Value and Investment

The Rolex Explorer II, like most Rolex sports models, holds its value remarkably well. In recent years, demand for Rolex watches, including the Explorer II, has surged, leading to significant price increases in both the new and pre-owned markets.

Market Trends and Pricing

The retail price of a new Rolex Explorer II (reference 226570) is set by Rolex, but due to high demand and limited supply, it's often difficult to purchase at retail from authorized dealers. As a result, a robust grey market has emerged, where new and pre-owned Explorer II models are traded at prices often exceeding the retail price. Pre-owned prices vary depending on condition, age, and specific reference, but generally, Explorer II models tend to appreciate in value over time, particularly well-maintained examples in complete sets (box and papers).

Investment Potential

While past performance is not indicative of future results, Rolex watches, including the Explorer II, have historically been considered good investments. Their robust construction, timeless design, and brand prestige contribute to their desirability and value retention. However, it's crucial to remember that the primary reason to buy a watch should be personal enjoyment. While the Explorer II may hold its value or even appreciate, treating it solely as an investment can detract from the pleasure of owning and wearing such a fine timepiece. Market fluctuations can occur, and watch values are not guaranteed to always increase.

Where to Buy: Authorized Dealers vs. Grey Market

The ideal way to purchase a new Rolex Explorer II is through an authorized dealer (AD). However, due to high demand, waitlists are common, and there's no guarantee of securing a watch quickly. The grey market offers an alternative for those willing to pay a premium and potentially bypass waitlists. Reputable grey market dealers can provide authentic watches, but it's essential to do thorough research and choose a trusted source. Purchasing pre-owned Explorer II models can also be a viable option, offering potentially better value and access to discontinued references. Whether buying new or pre-owned, always ensure the watch's authenticity and provenance.

Alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II

While the Rolex Explorer II is a truly exceptional watch, there are alternative timepieces that offer similar functionality and style, potentially at different price points.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT offers a compelling alternative with a similar GMT function and robust construction. It often features a ceramic bezel and Omega's Co-Axial movement, known for its accuracy and durability. The Planet Ocean GMT typically offers a more readily available option at retail compared to the Explorer II.

Tudor Black Bay Pro

From Rolex's sister brand Tudor, the Black Bay Pro is a more affordable alternative that captures the essence of the vintage Explorer II aesthetic. It features a fixed 24-hour bezel, a GMT function, and a robust in-house movement. The Black Bay Pro offers excellent value and a vintage-inspired design that appeals to many watch enthusiasts.

Grand Seiko GMT Options

Grand Seiko offers a range of GMT watches known for their exceptional finishing, precision, and innovative movements. Models like the SBGE201 (Spring Drive GMT) or SBGJ201 (Hi-Beat GMT) provide high-quality alternatives with unique movement technologies and distinctive Japanese design aesthetics. Grand Seiko GMTs often offer a different level of refinement and finishing compared to the Rolex Explorer II.

Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Rolex Explorer II

The Rolex Explorer II is a watch that embodies the spirit of adventure and exploration. It's a robust, reliable, and functional timepiece with a distinctive design that has evolved gracefully over the decades. While it might not always grab the spotlight like some of its Rolex stablemates, the Explorer II holds a special place for those who appreciate its understated ruggedness, practical GMT functionality, and enduring quality. Whether you're a seasoned explorer, a frequent traveler, or simply someone who appreciates a well-engineered and versatile watch, the Rolex Explorer II deserves serious consideration. It's a testament to Rolex's commitment to creating watches that are not just status symbols, but also capable instruments built to withstand the challenges of any environment. The Explorer II is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of resilience, exploration, and enduring horological excellence.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the Rolex Explorer II known for?

The Rolex Explorer II is known for its robust construction, 24-hour bezel and hand for GMT or AM/PM indication, excellent legibility, and its association with exploration and adventure.

Is the Explorer II a good investment?

Rolex watches, including the Explorer II, have historically held their value well and often appreciate. However, watch values can fluctuate, and it's not guaranteed. Buy for enjoyment first, investment second.

What are the different generations of Explorer II?

The main generations are the 1655 (vintage "Freccione"), 16570 (modern classic), 216570 (maxi case), and 226570 (current generation with Caliber 3285).

How does the Explorer II compare to the GMT-Master II?

Both are Rolex GMT watches, but the GMT-Master II has a rotating 24-hour bezel for tracking multiple time zones, while the Explorer II has a fixed bezel primarily for AM/PM indication or a single second time zone. The GMT-Master II is generally considered more versatile for time zone tracking, while the Explorer II emphasizes legibility and a tool-watch aesthetic.

Is the Explorer II suitable for everyday wear?

Yes, the Explorer II is very suitable for everyday wear. Its robust construction, comfortable bracelet, and versatile style make it a great choice for daily use, as well as for travel and outdoor activities.

References and Further Reading

1. Rolex Official Website: https://www.rolex.com
2. Hodinkee - Rolex Explorer II Deep Dive: https://www.hodinkee.com (Example Watch News Site - Replace with actual article if found)
3. Watchfinder & Co. - Rolex Explorer II Review: https://www.watchfinder.co.uk (Example Watch Retailer/Reviewer - Replace with actual review if found)
4. Revolution Watch - History of the Rolex Explorer II: https://revolutionwatch.com (Example Watch Magazine - Replace with actual history article if found)