In the realm of luxury timepieces, the Rolex GMT-Master II stands as a monument to horological innovation and enduring style. Within this esteemed collection, the "Root Beer" variant holds a particularly special place, captivating enthusiasts and collectors alike with its distinctive brown and black bezel. This article delves deep into the world of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," exploring its history, design evolution, key features, variations, market value, and why it continues to be a highly sought-after watch. Whether you're a seasoned Rolex aficionado or a newcomer to the world of luxury watches, this comprehensive guide will provide invaluable insights into this iconic timepiece.

Understanding the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" A Nickname Born from Color

The moniker "Root Beer" is not an official Rolex designation but rather a beloved nickname bestowed upon certain GMT-Master and GMT-Master II models due to their warm, brown and gold or brown and black bezel inserts. This earthy color palette evokes the rich hues of the classic American soda, hence the catchy and enduring nickname. While Rolex itself may refer to these bezels as brown and black ceramic (Cerachrom) or brown and gold (on older models), the "Root Beer" name has stuck, becoming synonymous with a specific aesthetic within the GMT-Master lineage.

More Than Just a Bezel: The GMT-Master II's Functionality

Beyond its striking bezel, the Rolex GMT-Master II is fundamentally a tool watch designed for pilots and global travelers. The "GMT" in its name stands for Greenwich Mean Time, the prime meridian and the basis for standard time across the world. The watch's core function is to display two time zones simultaneously, a crucial feature for navigating across continents. This is achieved through:

  • The 24-Hour Bezel: The bi-directional rotatable bezel, in this case, the signature "Root Beer" bezel, is marked with 24-hour graduations.
  • The Independent 24-Hour Hand: A distinctive hand, often with a prominent arrow tip, circles the dial once every 24 hours.
  • Traditional 12-Hour Hands: These hands display the local time in the standard 12-hour format.

By rotating the bezel and using the independent 24-hour hand, the wearer can easily track a second time zone. This functionality, combined with Rolex's legendary robustness and reliability, made the GMT-Master and subsequently the GMT-Master II an indispensable tool for professionals and adventurers alike.

A Historical Journey of the "Root Beer" GMT-Master The Original GMT-Master and the Dawn of Brown Bezels

While the GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is what we primarily discuss today, the "Root Beer" aesthetic has roots in the earlier GMT-Master models. In the 1970s, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master 1675/3, often referred to as the "Root Beer" or "Clint Eastwood" due to its association with the iconic actor. This model featured a brown and gold bezel insert, paired with a brown dial and gold accents, creating a warm and luxurious look. This was a departure from the more traditional black and red "Pepsi" or black bezels of previous GMT-Masters, signaling a shift towards a more opulent and less purely utilitarian aesthetic.

These vintage "Root Beer" GMT-Masters are highly collectible today, representing an important chapter in the model's history and showcasing the early iterations of the brown bezel concept.

The GMT-Master II Era: Refining the "Root Beer" Legacy

The GMT-Master II, introduced in the 1980s, brought significant advancements, most notably the independent setting of the hour hand. However, it wasn't until much later that the "Root Beer" color scheme made its return in the modern GMT-Master II collection. Rolex reintroduced the "Root Beer" aesthetic in 2018 with the release of the GMT-Master II 126711CHNR in Rolesor Everose (Oystersteel and Everose gold) and the full Everose gold version, 126715CHNR. These models marked a significant evolution, incorporating Rolex's cutting-edge technology and materials while paying homage to the beloved vintage "Root Beer" models.

The modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II utilizes a Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert, which is virtually scratch-proof and fade-resistant, a significant upgrade from the aluminum bezels of the past. The color is achieved through a patented process, ensuring the rich brown and black hues are deeply ingrained and will remain vibrant for generations.

Key Features and Specifications of the Modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II (126711CHNR & 126715CHNR) Materials and Construction
  • Case: 40mm Oyster case, crafted from Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold (126711CHNR - Rolesor Everose) or entirely from 18 ct Everose gold (126715CHNR). The Oyster case is renowned for its robustness, water resistance (100 meters / 330 feet), and protection of the movement.
  • Bezel: Bi-directional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel with a two-color brown and black Cerachrom insert in ceramic. Engraved numerals and graduations are coated in gold or pink gold via PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition).
  • Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens over the date at 3 o'clock for enhanced readability.
  • Bracelet: Available on either an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet.
    • Oyster Bracelet (126711CHNR & 126715CHNR): Features flat three-piece links, with the center links in 18 ct Everose gold and outer links in Oystersteel (126711CHNR) or entirely in 18 ct Everose gold (126715CHNR).
    • Jubilee Bracelet (126711CHNR): Features five-piece links, offering a dressier and more refined look, with center links in 18 ct Everose gold and outer links in Oystersteel.
  • Clasp: Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link, allowing for quick adjustments to bracelet length.
Movement: Caliber 3285

Powering the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is Rolex's caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Key features of this movement include:

  • Chronergy Escapement: Patented by Rolex, the Chronergy escapement optimizes energy efficiency and reliability.
  • Parachrom Hairspring: Made of a paramagnetic alloy, the Parachrom hairspring is highly resistant to magnetic fields and temperature variations, enhancing timekeeping precision.
  • High Precision: Officially certified as a Superlative Chronometer by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) and further tested by Rolex after casing, guaranteeing exceptional precision of -2/+2 seconds per day.
  • Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours.
Dial and Aesthetics

The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II typically features a black dial, providing a stark contrast to the warm tones of the bezel and gold accents. The hour markers and hands are filled with Chromalight luminescent material, emitting a long-lasting blue glow for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The overall aesthetic is one of sophisticated luxury with a touch of sporty functionality.

Why the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is Highly Desirable A Unique and Versatile Aesthetic

The "Root Beer" bezel offers a distinctive alternative to the more common black, blue, or red bezels found on other GMT-Master II models. The brown and black color combination is both warm and sophisticated, making it versatile enough to be worn in a variety of settings, from casual to formal. It strikes a balance between sporty and elegant, appealing to a broad range of tastes.

Luxury and Precious Materials

The use of Everose gold, Rolex's proprietary pink gold alloy, elevates the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II into the realm of true luxury. Everose gold is known for its exceptional color retention and resistance to fading, ensuring the watch retains its beauty over time. The combination of Everose gold with Oystersteel (in the 126711CHNR) or full Everose gold (in the 126715CHNR) signifies a commitment to high-quality materials and craftsmanship.

Investment Potential and Collectibility

Rolex watches, in general, hold their value remarkably well, and certain models, including the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, are highly sought after in the secondary market. Due to high demand and limited availability at authorized dealers, the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II often trades at a premium above its retail price on the grey market. For many, owning a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is not only about enjoying a beautiful and functional timepiece but also about making a sound investment.

Heritage and Iconic Status

The "Root Beer" name and aesthetic carry a rich history within the GMT-Master lineage, connecting the modern models to the vintage classics of the past. This heritage, combined with the GMT-Master II's iconic status as a symbol of adventure and global exploration, further enhances the desirability of the "Root Beer" variant.

Acquiring a Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" Authorized Dealers and Waiting Lists

The primary route for purchasing a new Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is through authorized Rolex dealers (ADs). However, due to high demand and Rolex's controlled production, these models are notoriously difficult to acquire at retail. Waiting lists are common, and the wait time can vary significantly depending on the dealer, location, and model variant. Building a relationship with an AD may improve your chances of securing a highly sought-after model.

The Pre-Owned and Grey Market

For those unwilling or unable to wait for an AD allocation, the pre-owned or grey market offers an alternative. However, be prepared to pay a premium above the retail price. When purchasing from the grey market, it is crucial to buy from reputable dealers with a proven track record to ensure authenticity and condition. Thoroughly inspect the watch and its accompanying documentation before making a purchase.

Pricing Considerations

Retail prices for the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II vary depending on the model and materials. As of [Insert Current Year - e.g., 2023], the approximate retail prices are:

  • GMT-Master II 126711CHNR (Rolesor Everose): [Insert Approximate Retail Price]
  • GMT-Master II 126715CHNR (Full Everose Gold): [Insert Approximate Retail Price]

Grey market prices can fluctuate based on market demand and availability but are typically significantly higher than retail prices. It is essential to research current market values before making a purchase.

Caring for Your Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" Regular Servicing

To ensure the longevity and optimal performance of your Rolex, regular servicing is crucial. Rolex recommends a service interval of approximately 10 years, but depending on usage and environmental factors, more frequent servicing may be necessary. Rolex authorized service centers have trained watchmakers who use genuine Rolex parts and follow strict procedures to maintain the integrity of your timepiece.

Cleaning and Maintenance

For day-to-day care, gently cleaning your Rolex with a soft, damp cloth and mild soapy water is usually sufficient. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry with a soft cloth. For bracelets, you can use a soft brush to remove dirt and grime from between the links. Avoid submerging leather straps in water.

Storage

When not wearing your Rolex, store it in a safe and dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch winder if it's an automatic movement. Avoid exposing your watch to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, or direct sunlight for prolonged periods.

FAQ: Common Questions about the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" What is the "Root Beer" Rolex? The "Root Beer" Rolex is a nickname for specific Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II models featuring a brown and black or brown and gold bezel insert. The name is derived from the color resemblance to the popular soda. What are the current "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models? The current "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models are the 126711CHNR (Rolesor Everose - Oystersteel and Everose gold) and the 126715CHNR (Full Everose gold). Is the "Root Beer" bezel ceramic? Yes, the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models feature a Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert, known for its scratch resistance and colorfastness. Is the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II a good investment? Rolex watches, including the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, are generally considered good investments due to their strong value retention and appreciation potential, particularly on the secondary market. How much does a Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II cost? Retail prices vary. The Rolesor Everose model (126711CHNR) is less expensive than the full Everose gold model (126715CHNR). Grey market prices are typically higher than retail. Check with authorized dealers or reputable grey market dealers for current pricing. How can I buy a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II at retail? Purchasing at retail through authorized dealers can be challenging due to high demand. Building a relationship with an AD and expressing your interest may improve your chances, but waiting lists are common.

The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" stands as a testament to Rolex's enduring legacy of innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless design. From its historical roots in the vintage GMT-Master models to the cutting-edge technology of the modern iterations, the "Root Beer" continues to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide. Its unique aesthetic, luxurious materials, robust functionality, and investment potential make it a highly desirable timepiece. Whether you're drawn to its distinctive brown and black bezel, its GMT functionality, or its prestigious Rolex pedigree, the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is more than just a watch; it's a statement of style, sophistication, and a connection to a rich horological heritage. For those fortunate enough to own one, the "Root Beer" is a watch to be cherished for generations to come, a true icon in the world of luxury timepieces.

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