What is a Two-Tone Rolex Submariner?

The term "two-tone" in watchmaking refers to the combination of two different metals in the construction of a timepiece. In the context of Rolex, specifically the Submariner Two-Tone, this typically means the pairing of Oystersteel (Rolex's proprietary stainless steel alloy) with gold, usually yellow gold or Everose gold (Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy). This harmonious blend creates a visually striking contrast, offering a warmer, more luxurious aesthetic compared to the all-steel models, while retaining the inherent robustness and tool-watch DNA of the Submariner.

Rolex uses the term "Rolesor" to describe its two-tone watches, a portmanteau of "Rolex" and "or" (French for gold). Rolesor models are not simply gold-plated; instead, they feature solid gold elements, primarily in the center links of the bracelet, the bezel, and the crown. This ensures durability and lasting value, hallmarks of the Rolex brand.

A Legacy of Two-Tone Submariners: Tracing the History

While the Rolex Submariner was initially conceived as a purely utilitarian tool watch for divers in 1953, the introduction of precious metals and two-tone variations marked its evolution into a luxury item. The first two-tone Submariner, reference 1680/3, made its debut in the late 1960s. This model featured a yellow gold bezel and center links, paired with a blue or black dial, instantly elevating the Submariner's status beyond its tool-watch origins.

Over the decades, the two-tone Submariner has undergone several iterations, mirroring the evolution of the entire Submariner line. Key milestones include:

• Reference 1680/3 (Late 1960s - 1970s): The pioneering two-tone Submariner, establishing the aesthetic blueprint.
• Reference 16613 (1980s - 2010): A long-running and highly popular reference, known for its sapphire crystal, unidirectional bezel, and improved movement. This model solidified the two-tone Submariner's place in Rolex's lineup.
• Reference 116613 (2010 - 2020): Introduced the "Super Case" with broader lugs and crown guards, a ceramic "Cerachrom" bezel, and a more robust bracelet with solid end links. This generation brought modern advancements while maintaining the classic two-tone appeal.
• Reference 126613 (2020 - Present): The current generation, featuring a slightly larger 41mm case, an updated movement (Caliber 3235), and refined proportions. This model represents the latest evolution of the two-tone Submariner, combining cutting-edge technology with timeless design.

Each of these references has contributed to the enduring legacy of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, showcasing Rolex's commitment to continuous improvement and refinement.

Key Design Elements of the Two-Tone Submariner

The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is instantly recognizable thanks to its distinctive design elements:

• Oystersteel and Gold Construction: The hallmark of the two-tone model. Oystersteel provides strength and corrosion resistance, while gold adds a touch of luxury and warmth.
• Cerachrom Bezel Insert: Modern two-tone Submariners feature a Cerachrom bezel, Rolex's patented ceramic material. This bezel is virtually scratch-proof, fade-resistant, and incredibly durable, maintaining its pristine appearance for years.
• Oyster Bracelet: The iconic three-link Oyster bracelet, with its robust construction and comfortable wear, is a defining feature. In two-tone models, the center links are crafted from solid gold, creating a striking visual contrast.
• Cyclops Lens: Positioned above the date window at 3 o'clock, the Cyclops lens magnifies the date for enhanced readability, a signature Rolex feature.
• Luminescent Markers and Hands: Essential for legibility in low-light conditions, the luminescent markers and hands ensure the Submariner remains a functional tool watch, even in its luxurious guise.

Why Choose a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone? The Appeal and Advantages

The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone holds a unique position in the watch world. It offers several compelling advantages that make it a desirable choice for many:

• Versatility and Style: The two-tone Submariner bridges the gap between sporty and dressy. It's robust enough for everyday wear and even adventurous activities, yet elegant enough to be worn in more formal settings. This versatility makes it a true "go-anywhere, do-anything" watch.
• Luxury and Prestige: The inclusion of gold elevates the Submariner beyond a purely functional tool watch. It adds a touch of luxury and prestige, signaling a refined taste and appreciation for quality craftsmanship. Owning a Rolex, especially a gold-accented model, carries a certain status and recognition.
• Investment Potential: Rolex watches, particularly Submariners, are known for their strong resale value and investment potential. Two-tone models often hold their value exceptionally well, and certain references can appreciate over time, especially if well-maintained and complete with original box and papers.
• Durability and Reliability: Despite the addition of gold, the two-tone Submariner retains the legendary robustness and reliability of the all-steel models. Rolex watches are built to last, and the Submariner is no exception, designed to withstand the rigors of daily wear and demanding environments.
• A Touch of Individuality: While the all-steel Submariner is undeniably iconic, the two-tone version offers a slightly more distinctive and less common aesthetic. It allows wearers to express their personal style while still enjoying the heritage and prestige of the Submariner lineage.

Who is the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone For?

The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone appeals to a broad spectrum of individuals:

• Watch Enthusiasts: Collectors and enthusiasts appreciate the history, craftsmanship, and iconic design of the Submariner, and the two-tone variant offers a unique and desirable addition to any collection.
• Professionals: Individuals in business, finance, and other professional fields often choose the two-tone Submariner as a sophisticated and reliable timepiece that reflects their success and discerning taste.
• Individuals Seeking Versatility: Those who want a watch that can transition seamlessly from casual to formal occasions will find the two-tone Submariner an ideal choice.
• Rolex Admirers: Fans of the Rolex brand and its heritage often gravitate towards the Submariner, and the two-tone model provides a luxurious and slightly more unique expression of their appreciation.
• Those Seeking an Investment Piece: Individuals looking for a tangible asset that holds value and potentially appreciates over time may consider the two-tone Submariner as a sound investment.

Buying a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone: What to Consider

Purchasing a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is a significant investment. Here are key factors to consider:

• Authorized Dealers (ADs) vs. Grey Market: Buying from an Authorized Dealer ensures authenticity and warranty but often involves waiting lists and limited availability. The grey market offers immediate availability but may come at a premium and requires careful due diligence to verify authenticity.
• New vs. Pre-Owned: New models are typically purchased from ADs, while pre-owned options are available from reputable dealers and online platforms. Pre-owned watches can offer value and access to discontinued references but require careful inspection for condition and authenticity.
• Reference and Condition: Research different references (e.g., 16613, 116613, 126613) and their specific features. When buying pre-owned, thoroughly assess the watch's condition, including the case, bracelet, bezel, dial, and movement.
• Box and Papers: Original box and papers (warranty card, booklets) significantly enhance the value and authenticity of a Rolex, particularly for pre-owned models.
• Budget: Determine your budget beforehand. Two-tone Submariners are premium watches, and prices vary depending on the reference, condition, and market demand. Factor in potential taxes and insurance costs.
• Research and Due Diligence: Thoroughly research the seller, whether an AD or grey market dealer. Read reviews, check for certifications, and ask for references. For pre-owned purchases, consider having the watch authenticated by a Rolex specialist.

Care and Maintenance of Your Two-Tone Submariner

To ensure your Rolex Submariner Two-Tone remains in excellent condition and retains its value, proper care and maintenance are essential:

• Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and lukewarm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry gently. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
• Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends a complete service every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Professional servicing ensures the movement is properly cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted, maintaining accuracy and reliability.
• Avoid Extreme Conditions: While the Submariner is robust, avoid exposing it to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, or harsh impacts.
• Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe, dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch case.
• Bracelet Care: Periodically check the bracelet for wear and tear, especially the gold center links, which can be more susceptible to scratches. Professional polishing can restore the shine, but avoid over-polishing.

Rolex Submariner Two-Tone: A Timeless Investment

The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is more than just a watch; it's a statement, an investment, and a piece of horological history. Its enduring design, robust construction, and blend of luxury and functionality make it a highly sought-after timepiece. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a first-time luxury watch buyer, the two-tone Submariner offers a compelling combination of style, prestige, and lasting value. Its ability to seamlessly transition between different environments and occasions solidifies its position as a truly versatile and iconic watch.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone

What does "Rolesor" mean?

Rolesor is Rolex's term for two-tone watches, specifically combining Oystersteel and gold. It's a blend of "Rolex" and "or" (French for gold).

Is the gold on a two-tone Submariner solid gold or plated?

Rolex uses solid gold components in its Rolesor watches, not gold plating. This ensures durability and lasting value.

Is the two-tone Submariner a good investment?

Historically, Rolex Submariners, including two-tone models, have held their value well and often appreciated over time. However, watch investment is not guaranteed and depends on market conditions, model, and condition.

Can I wear a two-tone Submariner for swimming and diving?

Yes, the Rolex Submariner is designed to be water-resistant to 300 meters (1000 feet). It's suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and recreational diving. However, always ensure the crown is properly screwed down.

What are the common dial colors for the two-tone Submariner?

Common dial colors include black, blue, and sometimes champagne or sunburst gold, depending on the specific reference and metal combination.

How often should I service my two-tone Submariner?

Rolex recommends a complete service every 5-10 years, depending on usage, to ensure optimal performance and longevity.

Is the two-tone Submariner more expensive than the all-steel model?

Yes, two-tone Submariners are typically more expensive than their all-steel counterparts due to the inclusion of gold.

Where can I buy a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?

You can purchase a new two-tone Submariner from Rolex Authorized Dealers (ADs) or explore pre-owned options from reputable dealers and online platforms.