The Rolex Explorer II. Just the name conjures images of intrepid adventurers, spelunking in deep caves, and scaling icy peaks. While perhaps most of us use it more for navigating the urban jungle than actual jungles, the Explorer II remains a cornerstone of Rolex's Professional watch collection, lauded for its robust build, distinctive design, and practical functionality. This comprehensive Rolex Explorer II review will delve into every facet of this iconic timepiece, exploring its history, design, features, pros and cons, and ultimately, whether it deserves a place on your wrist.
A Legacy of Exploration: The Explorer II's Heritage
To truly appreciate the Explorer II, we must understand its lineage. Born in 1971, the Explorer II (reference 1655) was conceived as a tool watch specifically for polar explorers and speleologists. These demanding environments required a watch that could withstand extreme conditions and, crucially, differentiate between day and night in perpetually dark or light environments. This necessity gave rise to the Explorer II's signature 24-hour fixed bezel and additional 24-hour hand.
While sharing the "Explorer" name with its simpler sibling, the Explorer II carved its own niche. The original Explorer (reference 1016) was a time-only watch emphasizing legibility and robustness, inspired by the 1953 Everest expedition. The Explorer II, however, took functionality a step further, adding GMT capabilities (albeit in a unique format at first) and a more overtly tool-like aesthetic. Over the decades, the Explorer II has evolved through several iterations (16550, 16570, 216570, and the current 226570), each refining the design and incorporating Rolex's advancements in watchmaking technology.
Key Milestones in Explorer II Evolution
- 1971 - Reference 1655: The original "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") Explorer II, featuring a fixed 24-hour bezel, orange 24-hour hand, and Caliber 1575 movement. Highly collectible and known for its unique, somewhat polarizing design.
- 1985 - Reference 16550: A significant update, introducing the Caliber 3085 movement with a true GMT function (independent 12-hour hand), sapphire crystal, and a cleaner dial layout. Transitional models with creamy patina dials are highly sought after.
- 1989 - Reference 16570: Refined and improved, featuring the Caliber 3185 (later 3186) movement. Maintained the 40mm case size and became a long-running and highly popular reference, available with both black and white ("Polar") dials.
- 2011 - Reference 216570: Marked a major shift with a larger 42mm case, Chromalight display for enhanced luminescence, and the Caliber 3187 movement. Celebrated the 40th anniversary and brought a more modern presence to the Explorer II.
- 2021 - Reference 226570: The current generation, retaining the 42mm case but with subtle refinements to the case proportions, bracelet, and equipped with the cutting-edge Caliber 3285 movement, offering improved performance and a 70-hour power reserve.
Design and Features: What Makes the Explorer II Stand Out?
The Rolex Explorer II's design is purposeful and robust, reflecting its tool watch origins. It's not as overtly luxurious as some other Rolex models, but it exudes a rugged charm and functional elegance that appeals to many.
The 24-Hour Bezel and GMT Functionality
The fixed 24-hour bezel is arguably the Explorer II's most distinctive feature. Paired with the dedicated 24-hour hand, it serves two primary purposes. Firstly, it provides a clear indication of AM/PM, crucial in environments where day and night cycles are distorted or absent. Secondly, it allows for the tracking of a second time zone. While not a traditional rotating GMT bezel, it's highly effective and contributes significantly to the Explorer II's unique character. The current models feature a black ceramic bezel insert, offering exceptional scratch resistance and a modern aesthetic.
Dial, Hands, and Legibility: Clarity in Any Condition
Rolex prioritizes legibility in its Professional watches, and the Explorer II excels in this area. The dial is clean and uncluttered, with large, highly legible hour markers and hands coated with Chromalight, Rolex's proprietary luminescent material. This provides a long-lasting blue glow in low-light conditions, ensuring readability even in the darkest environments. The "Polar" white dial version offers exceptional contrast and is particularly popular for its crisp, clean look. The black dial version provides a more classic and understated aesthetic.
Oyster Case and Bracelet: Durability and Comfort
The Explorer II utilizes Rolex's iconic Oyster case, renowned for its robustness and water resistance. Crafted from Oystersteel (904L stainless steel), the case is highly resistant to corrosion and scratches. It provides water resistance to 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for swimming and everyday water activities. The Oyster bracelet, also in Oystersteel, is equally robust and comfortable. It features solid links and a secure Oysterlock clasp with an Easylink comfort extension system, allowing for quick and easy adjustments to the bracelet length in varying temperatures or conditions.
Movement and Performance: The Heart of the Explorer II
Powering the current Rolex Explorer II is the Caliber 3285 movement, a marvel of modern watchmaking. This self-winding mechanical movement is entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, boasting exceptional precision, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. It features a Chronergy escapement for improved energy efficiency and a Parachrom hairspring for greater stability in temperature variations and shocks. The Caliber 3285 offers a substantial 70-hour power reserve, meaning the watch can be set aside for a weekend and still be running on Monday morning.
Wearing the Rolex Explorer II: On the Wrist Experience
On the wrist, the Rolex Explorer II strikes a balance between presence and comfort. The 42mm case size of the current generation provides a modern and substantial feel without being overly bulky. The Oyster bracelet is supremely comfortable for daily wear, conforming nicely to the wrist. The weight is noticeable but reassuring, a testament to the watch's solid construction. The legibility is exceptional, with the clear dial and bright luminescence making it easy to read the time at a glance, day or night.
Versatility and Style: Dressing Up or Down
While undeniably a tool watch, the Explorer II possesses a surprising degree of versatility. It pairs effortlessly with casual attire, from jeans and t-shirts to outdoor gear. It can also be dressed up slightly, complementing smart-casual outfits and even business attire in less formal settings. The "Polar" white dial version is often considered slightly more versatile due to its brighter and more contemporary aesthetic, while the black dial offers a more classic and traditional look. Ultimately, the Explorer II's understated elegance and robust character allow it to seamlessly transition between various environments and occasions.
Pros and Cons: Weighing the Explorer II
Like any watch, the Rolex Explorer II has its strengths and weaknesses. Let's examine the pros and cons to help you make an informed decision.
Advantages of Choosing the Explorer II
- Robustness and Durability: Built to withstand extreme conditions, the Explorer II is a true tool watch that can handle everyday wear and more adventurous pursuits.
- Exceptional Legibility: The clear dial, Chromalight luminescence, and contrasting hands ensure excellent readability in any lighting conditions.
- GMT Functionality: The 24-hour bezel and hand allow for tracking a second time zone, a practical feature for travelers or those who need to monitor time in different locations.
- Comfortable Oyster Bracelet: The Oyster bracelet is renowned for its comfort, durability, and secure clasp.
- Rolex Heritage and Prestige: Owning a Rolex Explorer II means owning a piece of horological history and benefiting from the brand's reputation for quality and reliability.
- Strong Resale Value: Rolex watches, particularly Professional models like the Explorer II, tend to hold their value well and often appreciate over time, making them a relatively safe investment.
- Cutting-Edge Movement: The Caliber 3285 movement offers exceptional performance, precision, and a long power reserve.
Potential Drawbacks to Consider
- Price: Rolex watches are luxury items, and the Explorer II comes with a significant price tag. It's a substantial investment.
- Availability: Due to high demand, obtaining a new Explorer II from an authorized dealer can be challenging and may involve waitlists.
- Fixed Bezel: While functional, the fixed 24-hour bezel lacks the versatility of a rotating GMT bezel for quickly tracking multiple time zones.
- Size (for some): The 42mm case might be considered large for those with smaller wrists.
- Less "Flashy" than some Rolex models: The Explorer II's understated design might not appeal to those seeking a more overtly luxurious or attention-grabbing timepiece.
Explorer II vs. The Competition: How Does it Stack Up?
The Rolex Explorer II competes in a crowded market of high-end sports watches and GMT timepieces. Let's compare it to some key competitors.
Rolex Explorer II vs. Rolex Submariner
Both are iconic Rolex Professional models, but they serve different purposes. The Submariner is a dive watch, emphasizing water resistance and a rotating timing bezel. The Explorer II is an adventure watch, focused on legibility and GMT functionality in challenging environments. The Submariner is generally considered more versatile in terms of dressiness, while the Explorer II has a more unique and tool-focused aesthetic. Ultimately, the choice depends on your priorities: diving capabilities and a more classic look (Submariner) or GMT functionality and a distinctive adventure watch design (Explorer II).
Rolex Explorer II vs. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT is a strong competitor, offering similar GMT functionality and robustness at a potentially lower price point (though still a luxury watch). The Planet Ocean GMT often features a ceramic bezel and a helium escape valve, catering to professional divers. Design-wise, the Planet Ocean GMT is generally bolder and more overtly sporty than the Explorer II. Rolex generally holds a stronger brand prestige and potentially better resale value, while Omega offers excellent value and innovation in its own right.
Who is the Rolex Explorer II For? Target Audience
The Rolex Explorer II appeals to a specific type of watch enthusiast. It's for those who appreciate:
- Tool Watches: Individuals who value functionality, robustness, and purposeful design.
- Adventure and Exploration: Those drawn to the spirit of adventure and exploration, even if primarily in a metaphorical sense.
- Understated Luxury: Collectors who appreciate high-end watchmaking but prefer a more subtle and less ostentatious aesthetic than some other luxury watches.
- GMT Functionality: Travelers, international business professionals, or anyone who needs to track multiple time zones.
- Rolex Heritage: Enthusiasts who value the history, prestige, and quality associated with the Rolex brand.
Investing in a Rolex Explorer II: Value and Resale
Rolex watches are renowned for holding their value, and the Explorer II is no exception. In fact, certain references, particularly vintage models and discontinued versions, can appreciate significantly over time. While not guaranteed, purchasing a Rolex Explorer II can be considered a relatively safe investment in the luxury watch market. However, it's crucial to purchase from reputable sources (authorized dealers or trusted grey market dealers) and maintain the watch in good condition with original box and papers to maximize potential resale value.
Rolex Explorer II Review: Final Verdict
The Rolex Explorer II is a truly exceptional watch that lives up to its adventurous name. It combines robust construction, practical GMT functionality, exceptional legibility, and a distinctive, understated design. While it comes with a premium price tag and potential availability challenges, the Explorer II offers a compelling package for those seeking a high-quality, reliable, and iconic tool watch. Whether you're a seasoned adventurer or simply appreciate the spirit of exploration in your everyday life, the Rolex Explorer II is a timepiece that will serve you faithfully and with style for years to come. It's a worthy addition to any serious watch collection and a testament to Rolex's enduring commitment to excellence.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the price of a Rolex Explorer II?
The retail price of a new Rolex Explorer II (reference 226570) varies slightly depending on the market, but generally starts around $9,800 USD. However, due to high demand, expect to pay a premium on the grey market if you cannot secure one from an authorized dealer.
What are the different Explorer II models available?
Currently, Rolex offers the Explorer II in Oystersteel with either a black or white "Polar" dial. Vintage and pre-owned markets offer a wider range of references, including older models like the 16570, 216570, 16550, and the original 1655.
Is the Rolex Explorer II a good investment?
Rolex watches generally hold their value well, and the Explorer II is often considered a good investment. While past performance is not indicative of future results, historically, Explorer II models have shown strong resale value and appreciation, especially limited or discontinued references. Always consult with financial advisors before making investment decisions.
How does the Explorer II GMT function work?
The Explorer II's GMT function is indicated by the 24-hour hand and the fixed 24-hour bezel. The 24-hour hand completes one rotation every 24 hours, pointing to the 24-hour bezel to indicate a second time zone. The 12-hour hand can be independently adjusted to set the local time, while the 24-hour hand remains synchronized to the reference time zone.
Where can I buy a Rolex Explorer II?
The best place to purchase a new Rolex Explorer II is from an authorized Rolex dealer (AD). However, availability can be limited. You can also explore reputable grey market dealers for new or pre-owned models, but always ensure their authenticity and reputation.
