For watch enthusiasts and collectors, the term "Rolex Root Beer" instantly conjures images of warm, inviting tones and a distinctive aesthetic that stands apart in the world of luxury timepieces. More than just a nickname, "Root Beer" represents a specific and beloved style within the iconic Rolex GMT-Master family. This article delves deep into the history, design, variations, and enduring appeal of the Rolex Root Beer, offering a comprehensive guide for both seasoned aficionados and those newly discovering this horological gem.
The Genesis of the "Root Beer" Nickname and the GMT-Master Legacy
To understand the Rolex Root Beer, we must first acknowledge its place within the legendary GMT-Master lineage. Originally launched in 1955, the GMT-Master was conceived as a tool watch for Pan American Airways pilots navigating across multiple time zones. Its groundbreaking feature was the 24-hour rotating bezel and an additional 24-hour hand, allowing wearers to track two time zones simultaneously. This functionality, combined with Rolex's reputation for robustness and reliability, quickly cemented the GMT-Master as a symbol of global exploration and sophisticated functionality.
The "Root Beer" nickname emerged later, specifically associated with GMT-Master models featuring a brown and gold or brown and black bezel insert. This warm, earthy color palette, reminiscent of the popular soft drink, distinguished these models from the more common blue and red "Pepsi" or black bezels. While Rolex never officially used the "Root Beer" moniker, it resonated strongly with collectors and the public, becoming a universally recognized and cherished term within the watch community.
Early Root Beer GMT-Masters: The 1675/3 and 16753
The earliest iterations of the Rolex Root Beer began appearing in the late 1960s and early 1970s. References like the 1675/3 and later the 16753 are considered the quintessential vintage "Root Beer" GMT-Masters. These models were typically crafted in Rolesor, Rolex's term for combining stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. Key characteristics of these vintage Rolex Root Beer watches include:
- Nipple Dial: Many early 1675/3 models feature a distinctive "nipple dial," characterized by applied gold hour markers with tritium luminous plots, resembling small nipples. This dial variation is highly sought after by collectors.
- Acrylic Crystal: Vintage Root Beers used acrylic crystals, lending a warmer, more vintage aesthetic compared to modern sapphire crystals.
- Brown and Gold Bezel: The hallmark of the Root Beer, the bezel insert was crafted in brown and gold anodized aluminum, providing the signature warm tones. The gold numerals and markers on the brown background created a luxurious and distinctive look.
- Jubilee or Oyster Bracelet: These models were often available on either the Rolex Jubilee bracelet or the Oyster bracelet, both in Rolesor configurations to match the watch case.
These vintage Rolex Root Beer GMT-Masters are now highly collectible, prized for their historical significance, unique aesthetic, and the charm of vintage Rolex craftsmanship. Finding examples in good condition can be challenging, and prices on the secondary market reflect their desirability and rarity.
The Modern Rolex Root Beer: The Everose GMT-Master II (126715CHNR)
After a period where the "Root Beer" bezel was absent from the Rolex catalog, it made a triumphant return in 2018 with the introduction of the Rolex GMT-Master II reference 126715CHNR. This modern interpretation brought the Root Beer aesthetic into the 21st century, utilizing contemporary Rolex technology and materials while retaining the spirit of the original.
The modern Rolex Everose Root Beer (126715CHNR) showcases several key updates and features:
- Everose Gold and Oystersteel: Instead of yellow gold Rolesor, the modern Root Beer utilizes Rolex's proprietary 18k Everose gold, a pink gold alloy known for its exceptional resistance to fading. This is paired with Oystersteel, Rolex's robust and corrosion-resistant stainless steel.
- Cerachrom Bezel Insert: The aluminum bezel insert of the vintage models is replaced with a Cerachrom (ceramic) insert. This brown and black ceramic bezel is virtually scratchproof, fade-resistant, and incredibly durable, ensuring the bezel retains its vibrant colors and sharp appearance for decades. The numerals and graduations are molded and then PVD coated with yellow gold or platinum (depending on the model variation).
- Sapphire Crystal with Cyclops Lens: The watch features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the iconic Cyclops lens over the date window for enhanced readability.
- Updated Movement: Caliber 3285: The 126715CHNR is powered by Rolex's caliber 3285, a cutting-edge automatic movement. This movement boasts improved efficiency, precision, and a longer power reserve of approximately 70 hours compared to previous generations.
- Oyster Bracelet with Oysterlock Clasp and Easylink Extension: The modern Root Beer is exclusively available on an Oyster bracelet in Everose Rolesor. It features the Oysterlock safety clasp and the Easylink comfort extension system, allowing for tool-free bracelet adjustment of approximately 5mm.
The Rolex Everose Root Beer GMT-Master II (126715CHNR) represents a luxurious and technically advanced evolution of the classic design. Its use of Everose gold, Cerachrom bezel, and the caliber 3285 movement elevates it to a new level of sophistication and performance. This modern Root Beer appeals to collectors and enthusiasts seeking a contemporary Rolex with a distinctive vintage-inspired aesthetic.
Why the Rolex Root Beer Remains Highly Sought After
The enduring popularity of the Rolex Root Beer, both vintage and modern, stems from a combination of factors:
- Unique and Warm Aesthetic: The brown and gold/black color scheme is inherently warm, inviting, and less common than other Rolex bezel colors. This distinctiveness makes the Root Beer stand out and appeals to those seeking something beyond the traditional Rolex look.
- Versatility and Style: Despite its precious metal components, the Root Beer retains a degree of versatility. It can be dressed up or down, making it suitable for a variety of occasions, from business meetings to casual outings. The warm tones complement a wide range of clothing styles.
- Collectibility and Investment Potential: Vintage Rolex Root Beer models are highly collectible and have seen significant appreciation in value over time. The modern Everose Root Beer is also considered a desirable and potentially appreciating asset, particularly given Rolex's production constraints and high demand.
- Nostalgia and Heritage: For many, the Rolex Root Beer evokes a sense of nostalgia, connecting them to a specific era of watchmaking and design. Its association with the GMT-Master lineage further adds to its heritage and appeal.
- Exclusivity and Rarity: Rolex production is inherently limited, and certain models, including precious metal variants like the Everose Root Beer, are produced in smaller quantities. This inherent exclusivity contributes to their desirability.
Buying a Rolex Root Beer: Considerations and Tips
Whether you are pursuing a vintage or modern Rolex Root Beer, the buying process requires careful consideration:
For Vintage Rolex Root Beer Models (e.g., 1675/3, 16753):
- Authenticity is Paramount: Vintage Rolex watches are frequently counterfeited or pieced together from different watches. Buy from reputable dealers specializing in vintage Rolex or consider purchasing from established auction houses. Thoroughly research the specific reference and its characteristics.
- Condition Assessment: Vintage watches will show signs of wear. Evaluate the condition of the dial, bezel, case, and bracelet. Originality is often valued over pristine condition, but significant damage or non-original parts will detract from value.
- Documentation and Provenance: Original box and papers (warranty certificate, booklets, etc.) significantly enhance the value and desirability of a vintage Rolex. Provenance, or the watch's history of ownership, can also be a factor.
- Movement Servicing History: Inquire about the watch's service history. A recently serviced watch from a reputable watchmaker is generally preferable.
- Market Research: Track prices of comparable models on reputable online marketplaces and auction results to understand current market values.
For Modern Rolex Everose Root Beer (126715CHNR):
- Authorized Dealers (ADs): The primary route for purchasing a new Rolex is through an Authorized Dealer. However, demand for popular models like the Everose Root Beer often exceeds supply, leading to waiting lists. Build a relationship with an AD if possible.
- Grey Market: If you are unwilling to wait, the grey market offers immediate availability but typically at a premium above retail price. Exercise caution when buying from the grey market and ensure the seller is reputable and offers a warranty.
- Verify Authenticity: Even with modern Rolex watches, ensure authenticity. Purchase from trusted sources.
- Consider Pre-Owned: The pre-owned market can offer modern Root Beer models, potentially with shorter wait times than ADs, though prices may still be above retail depending on market conditions.
Caring for Your Rolex Root Beer
Proper care and maintenance will ensure your Rolex Root Beer remains in excellent condition and retains its value for generations:
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft, damp cloth to remove dirt and grime. For more thorough cleaning, you can use lukewarm soapy water and a soft brush, ensuring the crown is securely screwed down.
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Do not expose your Rolex to harsh chemicals, solvents, or extreme temperatures.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends a complete service every 5-10 years, or when you notice any issues with timekeeping or functionality. Rolex service centers or authorized service providers are recommended for maintaining the watch's warranty and ensuring proper care.
- Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe, dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch case. Avoid storing it in direct sunlight or extreme humidity.
- Be Mindful of Magnetic Fields: While modern Rolex movements are more resistant to magnetism, avoid prolonged exposure to strong magnetic fields, which can affect timekeeping accuracy.
FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions About the Rolex Root Beer
- What is the "Root Beer" nickname and why is it used for this Rolex?
- The "Root Beer" nickname refers to the brown and gold or brown and black bezel color scheme found on certain Rolex GMT-Master models. The colors are reminiscent of the popular soft drink, and the nickname stuck within the watch community.
- What are the key differences between vintage and modern Rolex Root Beer models?
- Vintage Root Beers (e.g., 1675/3, 16753) typically feature Rolesor (steel and yellow gold), aluminum bezel inserts, acrylic crystals, and older movements. Modern Root Beers (126715CHNR) use Everose Rolesor (steel and Everose gold), Cerachrom bezels, sapphire crystals, and updated movements like caliber 3285.
- Is the Rolex Root Beer a good investment?
- Both vintage and modern Rolex Root Beer models are generally considered to be good investments, particularly well-maintained examples. Vintage models have a proven track record of appreciation, and the modern Everose Root Beer is highly sought after and likely to hold or increase in value over time, though watch investments always carry risk and are subject to market fluctuations.
- Is the Rolex Root Beer available in stainless steel?
- Historically, the "Root Beer" aesthetic has primarily been associated with Rolesor (two-tone) models. The current modern Rolex Root Beer (126715CHNR) is in Everose Rolesor. There is no current production stainless steel Rolex Root Beer GMT-Master. However, the popularity of the color scheme might lead to future stainless steel variations.
- How much does a Rolex Root Beer cost?
- The retail price of a new Rolex Everose Root Beer (126715CHNR) is set by Rolex, but availability at retail is limited. Grey market prices are typically significantly higher than retail. Vintage Root Beer prices vary widely depending on condition, reference, and provenance, ranging from tens of thousands to well over $20,000 USD and upwards for exceptional examples.
- What is the reference number for the current Rolex Root Beer?
- The current Rolex Root Beer GMT-Master II is reference 126715CHNR.
Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the Rolex Root Beer
The Rolex Root Beer is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of enduring style, adventurous spirit, and Rolex's mastery of horological craftsmanship. From its vintage origins to its modern reincarnation in Everose gold, the "Root Beer" aesthetic has captivated watch enthusiasts for decades. Its unique color palette, combined with the GMT-Master's legendary functionality and Rolex's unwavering commitment to quality, ensures the Rolex Root Beer will continue to be a highly coveted and admired timepiece for generations to come. Whether you are drawn to the vintage charm of the early models or the modern luxury of the Everose version, owning a Rolex Root Beer is owning a piece of watchmaking history and a true icon of horological design.
References and Sources:
- Rolex Official Website: www.rolex.com
- Hodinkee: www.hodinkee.com (Search for "Rolex Root Beer" for relevant articles)
- Fratello Watches: www.fratellowatches.com (Search for "Rolex Root Beer" for relevant articles)
- Chrono24: www.chrono24.com (For market prices and model information)
- Bob's Watches: www.bobswatches.com (For vintage Rolex information and pricing trends)
