The Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a timepiece; it's a statement. A symbol of sophisticated travel, vintage charm, and enduring horological excellence, this iconic watch has captivated collectors and enthusiasts for decades. With its distinctive brown and black bezel, often likened to the color of root beer soda, this variant of the legendary GMT-Master II stands apart, offering a unique blend of robustness and refined aesthetics. In this comprehensive guide, we delve deep into the world of the Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer," exploring its history, design evolution, market value, and why it continues to be a highly sought-after watch.
A Rich History: Tracing the Roots of the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II
To truly appreciate the "Root Beer," we must first understand the lineage of the Rolex GMT-Master. Born from a collaboration with Pan American Airways in the 1950s, the original GMT-Master (Reference 6542) was designed for pilots navigating multiple time zones. Its defining feature was the 24-hour rotating bezel and the additional GMT hand, allowing the wearer to track a second time zone with ease. This innovation was revolutionary for its time, solidifying Rolex's reputation for creating practical and reliable professional watches.
The Birth of a Legend: The Original GMT-Master
The initial GMT-Master, with its Bakelite bezel (later replaced with aluminum), quickly became a favorite among pilots and international travelers. Its functionality and robust construction were paramount, but its distinctive look also contributed to its widespread appeal. This foundation laid the groundwork for future iterations, including the introduction of precious metals and more luxurious finishes.
The "Root Beer" Emerges: 1970s and the Ref. 1675/3 and 16713
The "Root Beer" aesthetic first graced the GMT-Master line in the 1970s with the Reference 1675/3, followed by the Reference 16713 in the 1980s. These models marked a significant departure from the predominantly steel sports watches Rolex was known for. Crafted in Rolesor – Rolex's signature combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold – these "Root Beer" GMT-Master models introduced a warmer, more luxurious tone to the collection. The key element, of course, was the brown and gold (or brown and black on later models) bezel insert, immediately evoking the image of the classic soda. These vintage "Root Beer" models, particularly the 1675/3, are highly coveted by collectors today, representing a pivotal moment in the GMT-Master's evolution towards becoming a status symbol as much as a functional tool.
Modern Renaissance: The GMT-Master II "Root Beer" Returns with Ref. 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR
After a period of absence from the Rolex catalog, the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II made a triumphant return in 2018 with the introduction of the Reference 126711CHNR and the Reference 126715CHNR. These modern iterations brought the iconic color scheme into the 21st century, incorporating contemporary Rolex technology and materials. The Ref. 126711CHNR is crafted in Everose Rolesor (combining Oystersteel and Everose gold – Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy), while the Ref. 126715CHNR is presented in full 18k Everose gold. Crucially, the bezel insert is now made of Cerachrom, Rolex's proprietary ceramic, in a stunning brown and black combination. This Cerachrom bezel is not only virtually scratchproof and fade-resistant but also offers a richer, deeper color than the aluminum bezels of the past. The modern "Root Beer" models are powered by the Rolex caliber 3285 movement, boasting improved performance, precision, and a 70-hour power reserve. These contemporary versions have solidified the "Root Beer" as a cornerstone of the modern GMT-Master II collection, bridging the gap between vintage appeal and cutting-edge watchmaking.
Design and Features: Decoding the "Root Beer" Aesthetic
The allure of the Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" lies not just in its history but also in its distinctive design and robust features. It's a watch that seamlessly blends functionality with a touch of vintage-inspired elegance.
The Iconic Bezel: Brown and Black Cerachrom
The defining characteristic of the "Root Beer" is undoubtedly its bezel. The modern iterations feature a bi-directional rotating 24-hour bezel with a two-color Cerachrom insert in brown and black ceramic. This color combination is not just aesthetically pleasing but also functional, allowing for easy differentiation between day and night hours on the second time zone. The Cerachrom material ensures the bezel is virtually impervious to scratches and fading from UV rays, maintaining its pristine appearance for years to come. The engraved numerals and graduations on the bezel are coated with platinum or gold (depending on the model), further enhancing readability and luxury.
The Case and Bracelet: Rolesor and Full Gold Options
Rolex offers the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II in two primary case and bracelet configurations in the modern era: Everose Rolesor and full 18k Everose gold. The Everose Rolesor version (Ref. 126711CHNR) combines the durability of Oystersteel with the luxurious warmth of Everose gold on the bezel, crown, and bracelet's center links. This two-tone approach offers a balance of robustness and elegance, making it suitable for both everyday wear and more formal occasions. The full 18k Everose gold version (Ref. 126715CHNR) elevates the luxury to another level, presenting the entire watch in Rolex's exquisite rose gold alloy. Both models are available with the comfortable and secure Oyster bracelet, featuring the Oysterlock safety clasp and the Easylink comfort extension link, allowing for minor adjustments to the bracelet length without tools. The 40mm Oyster case is waterproof to 100 meters (330 feet), ensuring its suitability for various activities.
The Dial and Movement: Functionality and Precision
The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II features a highly legible black dial with Chromalight luminescent hour markers and hands. This ensures excellent visibility in low-light conditions. The dial layout is clean and functional, with the date window at 3 o'clock magnified by the Cyclops lens – a signature Rolex feature. Powering the modern "Root Beer" models is the Rolex caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement is at the forefront of watchmaking technology, offering exceptional precision, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. It is a Superlative Chronometer certified by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) and further tested by Rolex after casing, guaranteeing exceptional performance. The caliber 3285 provides a 70-hour power reserve, offering convenience and practicality for daily wear.
Why the "Root Beer" Resonates: Appeal and Cultural Impact
The Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" enjoys a unique position in the world of luxury watches. Its appeal extends beyond its technical prowess and luxurious materials, tapping into a blend of nostalgia, style, and investment potential.
The "Clint Eastwood" Connection: Hollywood Glamour
While not officially endorsed by the actor, the vintage Rolex GMT-Master "Root Beer" (particularly the 1675/3 and 16713) became strongly associated with Clint Eastwood. He was frequently seen wearing these models in his iconic Western and action films of the 70s and 80s. This association undeniably contributed to the "Root Beer's" cool, rugged, and sophisticated image. The "Clint Eastwood Rolex" nickname further solidified its place in popular culture, adding a layer of Hollywood glamour and vintage charm to its appeal.
A Versatile Style Statement: From Casual to Formal
One of the key reasons for the "Root Beer's" enduring popularity is its versatility. While undeniably a luxury sports watch, its warm Rolesor or full gold tones and brown and black bezel make it surprisingly adaptable to various styles and occasions. It can be effortlessly paired with casual attire, adding a touch of sophistication to jeans and a t-shirt, or it can complement more formal wear, providing a subtle yet distinctive statement with a suit. This versatility makes it a compelling choice for those seeking a watch that can seamlessly transition between different aspects of their lives.
Investment Potential: A Watch that Appreciates
Rolex watches, in general, are renowned for their strong resale value and investment potential, and the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is no exception. Due to its iconic design, limited production compared to some other Rolex models, and high demand, both vintage and modern "Root Beer" watches have seen significant appreciation in value over time. The modern references, especially the full Everose gold 126715CHNR, are highly sought after and often command prices significantly above their retail MSRP on the secondary market. For many collectors, owning a "Root Beer" is not just about enjoying a beautiful timepiece but also about possessing a tangible asset that is likely to retain or increase its value over the years. However, it's crucial to remember that watch values can fluctuate, and purchasing a watch solely as an investment carries risks. The primary enjoyment should always come from appreciating and wearing the timepiece itself.
Navigating the "Root Beer" Market: Buying Guide and Considerations
Acquiring a Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer," whether vintage or modern, requires careful consideration and due diligence. Here's a guide to help you navigate the market:
New vs. Pre-Owned: Availability and Pricing
Purchasing a new "Root Beer" GMT-Master II from an authorized Rolex dealer (AD) is often challenging due to high demand and limited supply. Waiting lists can be long, and availability varies significantly. The retail price for new models is set by Rolex, but actual availability at that price is often restricted. The pre-owned market offers more immediate access to both vintage and modern "Root Beer" models. However, prices on the secondary market are typically above retail, especially for newer models in excellent condition and vintage references in desirable configurations. Prices in the pre-owned market are influenced by factors such as condition, age, box and papers, and overall demand.
Authenticity and Condition: Essential Checks
When purchasing a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, particularly in the pre-owned market, authenticity is paramount. Buy from reputable dealers or platforms with strong authentication processes. Carefully examine the watch for signs of tampering or non-original parts. Check the serial and reference numbers against Rolex records if possible. Condition is another crucial factor. Assess the watch's overall wear and tear, including scratches, dents, and bracelet stretch. Vintage watches will naturally show signs of age, but excessive wear can impact value and functionality. Request detailed photos and, if possible, inspect the watch in person before purchasing. Consider having the watch authenticated by a Rolex service center or a qualified independent watchmaker if you have any doubts.
Where to Buy: Authorized Dealers and Reputable Sources
For new watches, authorized Rolex dealers are the official channels. However, be prepared for potential waiting lists. For pre-owned watches, reputable sources include established vintage watch dealers, reputable online platforms specializing in luxury watches (such as Chrono24, Watchfinder, Bob's Watches), and auction houses with strong horological departments (like Christie's, Sotheby's, and Phillips). Do your research and choose sources with a proven track record and positive customer reviews. Always prioritize transparency, clear communication, and a robust return policy.
The Future of the "Root Beer": Trends and Predictions
The Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" is likely to remain a highly desirable and sought-after timepiece for the foreseeable future. Its unique aesthetic, rich history, and association with luxury and adventure ensure its continued appeal to collectors and enthusiasts. While Rolex's future product strategy is always closely guarded, it's reasonable to expect that the "Root Beer" color scheme will remain a part of the GMT-Master II collection in some form. Potential future iterations could explore new materials, subtle design refinements, or further advancements in movement technology. Regardless of future developments, the "Root Beer's" legacy as an iconic and stylish Rolex will undoubtedly endure, continuing to captivate watch lovers for generations to come.
Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the "Root Beer"
The Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a watch; it's a horological icon. From its vintage origins to its modern renaissance, it has consistently embodied a blend of robust functionality, luxurious aesthetics, and enduring style. Whether you are drawn to its vintage charm, its modern technical prowess, or its investment potential, the "Root Beer" offers a compelling proposition for watch enthusiasts. Its distinctive brown and black bezel, warm Rolesor or full gold tones, and connection to Hollywood glamour set it apart in the crowded landscape of luxury watches. Owning a "Root Beer" is not just about telling time; it's about owning a piece of horological history and making a statement of discerning taste and enduring style. It's a watch that transcends trends, remaining as captivating and desirable today as it was decades ago, solidifying its place as a true classic in the world of Rolex and beyond. The Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" is, and will likely continue to be, a benchmark of sophisticated travel and timeless elegance.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What makes the Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" called "Root Beer"?
The nickname "Root Beer" comes from the distinctive brown and gold (or brown and black) bezel insert, which is reminiscent of the color of root beer soda. This color combination is unique to this specific variant of the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II, setting it apart from other models.
What are the different "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models?
The vintage "Root Beer" models include the Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675/3 (1970s) and Reference 16713 (1980s and 1990s). The modern Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" models are the Reference 126711CHNR (Everose Rolesor) and Reference 126715CHNR (full 18k Everose gold), both introduced in 2018.
Is the Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" a good investment?
Rolex watches, including the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, often hold their value well and can appreciate over time, especially limited production or highly sought-after models. Both vintage and modern "Root Beer" references have demonstrated strong performance in the pre-owned market. However, watch values can fluctuate, and investment performance is not guaranteed. Purchase primarily for enjoyment, with investment potential as a secondary consideration.
How can I spot a fake Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer"?
Spotting a fake Rolex requires careful examination. Look for telltale signs like poor finishing, misaligned text, incorrect fonts, a ticking seconds hand (Rolexes have a smooth sweep), and a lightweight feel. The Cyclops lens magnification should be 2.5x and properly centered over the date. The movement should be a genuine Rolex automatic movement (visible through a display case back on some models, but not on the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II). Purchase from reputable dealers and always authenticate the watch if you have any concerns.
What is the price range for a Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer"?
Retail prices for new Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" models are set by Rolex, but availability at retail is often limited. In the pre-owned market, prices vary depending on the model, condition, age, and whether it comes with box and papers. Expect to pay significantly above retail for modern references, especially in Everose gold. Vintage models also vary widely, with early and well-preserved examples commanding premiums. Check reputable pre-owned watch marketplaces for current market prices.
