The world of horology is rich with iconic timepieces, each carrying its own unique history, charm, and collector appeal. Among these legends, the term 'Red Face Submariner' often surfaces in discussions, sparking curiosity and sometimes, a bit of confusion. While technically not a 'red face' in the literal sense, this moniker refers to a highly sought-after variant of the Rolex Submariner, specifically the reference 1680 featuring distinctive red lettering on its dial. This article delves deep into the fascinating world of the 'Red Face Submariner,' exploring its history, features, collectibility, and everything you need to know about this horological treasure.

Unveiling the Misnomer: It's Not About a Red Face, But Red Writing

Let's address the elephant in the room – the term 'Red Face Submariner' is somewhat of a misnomer. Purists and seasoned collectors will often refer to it simply as the 'Red Submariner' or the 'Rolex Submariner 1680 with red writing.' The 'face' or dial of this watch is, in fact, the classic Rolex black, synonymous with the Submariner line. The 'red' element comes from the word "Submariner" printed in vibrant red ink on the dial, contrasting beautifully against the matte black background.

This subtle yet significant detail is what sets the 'Red Submariner' apart from its contemporaries and subsequent iterations, elevating it to a highly coveted status in the vintage watch collecting community. It's this splash of color in an otherwise monochromatic design that has captured the hearts of enthusiasts and driven its desirability for decades.

A Historical Dive: The Rolex Submariner 1680 and its Red Lettering Legacy

To truly appreciate the 'Red Face Submariner,' we need to understand its place in the broader history of the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1969, the reference 1680 marked a pivotal moment for the Submariner line. It was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, a practical addition that broadened its appeal beyond just divers to a wider audience seeking a robust and versatile everyday watch.

Initially, and for a period spanning roughly from 1969 to around 1975, Rolex produced the 1680 with the iconic red 'Submariner' inscription. This was a deliberate design choice, perhaps to differentiate the new date-equipped model from the non-date Submariners of the time. However, sometime in the mid-1970s, Rolex transitioned to using white lettering for the 'Submariner' text on the 1680, making the 'Red Submariner' a limited production run and intrinsically more collectible.

The exact reasons for the switch to white lettering remain somewhat shrouded in Rolex's characteristic discretion. Speculation ranges from production efficiency to a desire for a more uniform aesthetic across the Submariner range. Regardless of the rationale, the result is that the 'Red Submariner' 1680 represents a unique chapter in Rolex's history, a fleeting moment of red amidst a sea of black and white.

Key Features and Distinguishing Characteristics of the Red Submariner 1680

Beyond the obvious red lettering, the 'Red Submariner' 1680 shares many of the robust and reliable features that define the Submariner lineage. However, understanding the nuances is crucial for collectors and enthusiasts. Here are the key characteristics:

  • Dial: Matte black dial with tritium hour markers. The key feature, of course, is the word "Submariner" printed in red, typically in a serif font. Crucially, there are several dial variations, known as 'Marks,' which we will discuss later.
  • Case: 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, renowned for its water resistance and durability. The case features crown guards, a standard feature on Submariners since the early models.
  • Bezel: Rotating bezel with a black aluminum insert marked for 60 minutes, essential for timing dives. The bezel insert is often faded on vintage examples, adding to their character and sometimes even value.
  • Crystal: Plexiglass crystal (often referred to as acrylic or Hesalite), a hallmark of vintage Rolex sports watches. Plexiglass crystals are known for their warm vintage aesthetic and ability to be polished, though they are more prone to scratches than sapphire.
  • Movement: Rolex Caliber 1575, a robust and reliable automatic movement with a date function. This movement was a workhorse for Rolex and is highly regarded for its longevity and accuracy.
  • Bracelet: Typically fitted with an Oyster bracelet in stainless steel. Common bracelet types for the 1680 era include the folded link Oyster bracelet and later, the solid link Oyster bracelet. The bracelet and end links should be period-correct for maximum value and authenticity.

Dial Variations: Navigating the 'Marks' of the Red Submariner

For serious collectors of 'Red Submariners,' understanding the dial variations, often referred to as 'Marks,' is paramount. These subtle differences in dial printing, font, and coronet design can significantly impact value and collectibility. While the exact number of Marks is debated among experts, generally, collectors recognize several distinct variations, often categorized as Mark I, Mark II, Mark III, Mark IV, Mark V, and Mark VI.

Identifying these Marks requires a keen eye and detailed knowledge. Key differentiating factors include:

  • Font of the Red "Submariner" text: Variations in the serif font, thickness, and spacing of the letters.
  • Coronet Design: Subtle differences in the Rolex coronet (crown) logo above the 'Rolex' text.
  • "ft" and "m" in Depth Rating: Variations in the font and spacing of the depth rating (e.g., 660ft = 200m).
  • "Swiss - T<25" or "Swiss T < 25" marking at 6 o'clock: Indicating the use of tritium luminous material, with slight variations in spacing and hyphenation.

Resources like vintage Rolex forums, books dedicated to Submariner variations, and reputable vintage watch dealers are invaluable for learning to identify these dial Marks. Understanding these nuances is crucial for both appreciating the history and accurately assessing the value of a 'Red Submariner.'

Why the 'Red Face Submariner' Commands Such High Collectibility and Value

The 'Red Face Submariner' is not just a vintage Rolex; it's a highly sought-after collector's item. Several factors contribute to its desirability and the premium it commands in the market:

  • Rarity and Limited Production Run: As mentioned earlier, the red lettering was only produced for a relatively short period. Compared to the overall production run of the 1680 and subsequent Submariner models, 'Red Subs' are less common, making them inherently more scarce.
  • Historical Significance: The 1680 was the first date Submariner, a significant milestone in the model's evolution. The red lettering further marks this early iteration as a distinct and historically important version.
  • Aesthetic Appeal: The red "Submariner" inscription is visually striking and adds a unique vintage charm. It's a subtle yet powerful detail that resonates with collectors who appreciate vintage aesthetics.
  • Vintage Rolex Mania: The vintage Rolex market, in general, has seen explosive growth in recent decades. Iconic models like the Submariner, and especially rarer variations like the 'Red Submariner,' have benefited significantly from this trend.
  • Investment Potential: Due to their rarity and desirability, 'Red Submariners' have proven to be excellent investments over time. Well-preserved examples, especially those with original boxes and papers, can fetch significant sums at auction and in private sales.

Investing in a 'Red Face Submariner': Key Considerations for Buyers

If you're considering acquiring a 'Red Face Submariner,' it's crucial to approach the purchase with diligence and informed caution. Here are some essential considerations:

  • Authenticity is Paramount: The vintage Rolex market is unfortunately rife with fakes and frankenwatches (watches assembled from parts of different watches). Thorough authentication is absolutely essential. Buy from reputable dealers specializing in vintage Rolex, and consider professional authentication services.
  • Condition, Condition, Condition: Condition significantly impacts the value of a vintage watch. For 'Red Subs,' dial condition is particularly critical. Look for original dials with consistent aging and tritium lume that matches across the dial and hands. Avoid dials that have been refinished or relumed.
  • Dial Mark Identification: Understand the dial Marks and ensure the watch you are considering matches the described characteristics of a genuine Mark. Be wary of dials that appear to be mislabeled or inconsistent with known variations.
  • Matching Serial Numbers and Production Period: Verify the serial number falls within the known production range for 'Red Submariners' (roughly 1969-1975). Use online resources and Rolex serial number charts to cross-reference.
  • Original Box and Papers (Provenance): While not always essential, original boxes and papers significantly enhance the value and provenance of a 'Red Submariner.' However, be equally cautious about fake boxes and papers.
  • Price Research and Market Value: Research current market prices for 'Red Submariners' in similar condition and dial Marks. Consult auction results, online marketplaces, and dealer listings to get a realistic understanding of fair market value.

Care and Maintenance of Your Vintage Red Submariner

Owning a 'Red Face Submariner' is a privilege and a responsibility. Proper care and maintenance are essential to preserve its value and ensure its continued functionality:

  • Regular Servicing: Vintage watches require periodic servicing by a qualified watchmaker experienced with vintage Rolex movements. A service every 5-7 years is generally recommended to clean, lubricate, and inspect the movement.
  • Gentle Handling: Treat your vintage watch with care. Avoid shocks, extreme temperatures, and strong magnetic fields.
  • Water Resistance Caution: While Submariners are known for water resistance, vintage examples may have compromised seals. It's advisable to avoid submerging a vintage 'Red Submariner' unless it has been recently pressure-tested by a watchmaker.
  • Proper Storage: Store your watch in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and humidity when not in use.

Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the 'Red Face Submariner'

The 'Red Face Submariner' is more than just a vintage watch; it's a horological icon, a symbol of Rolex's innovation and enduring design. Its subtle yet distinctive red lettering, combined with its historical significance as the first date Submariner, has cemented its place as a highly coveted collector's piece. While the term 'Red Face Submariner' might be technically inaccurate, it has become an enduring and endearing moniker within the watch community, representing a chapter of Rolex history that continues to captivate and inspire. For those fortunate enough to own or aspire to own a 'Red Submariner,' it represents not just a timepiece, but a tangible piece of horological heritage and a testament to the timeless appeal of the Rolex Submariner.

FAQ: Common Questions About the 'Red Face Submariner'

What exactly is a 'Red Face Submariner'?

The 'Red Face Submariner' is a nickname for the Rolex Submariner reference 1680, specifically those produced with the word "Submariner" printed in red on the dial. It's not actually a watch with a red dial, but rather a black dial with red lettering.

How can I identify a genuine 'Red Submariner'?

Identifying a genuine 'Red Submariner' requires careful examination of dial details (font, coronet, Marks), serial numbers, movement, and overall condition. Consult reputable vintage Rolex resources and consider professional authentication.

What are the different 'Marks' of Red Submariner dials?

'Marks' refer to dial variations in the printing, font, and coronet design of 'Red Submariners.' Collectors typically recognize several Marks (I to VI), each with subtle distinguishing features. Researching these Marks is crucial for serious collectors.

How much is a 'Red Face Submariner' worth?

The value of a 'Red Submariner' varies greatly depending on condition, dial Mark, presence of original box and papers, and overall market demand. Prices can range from tens of thousands to well over a hundred thousand dollars for exceptional examples.

Is a 'Red Face Submariner' a good investment?

Historically, 'Red Submariners' have proven to be strong investments, appreciating in value over time. However, like any investment, there are risks involved. Thorough research, buying from reputable sources, and proper care are essential for maximizing investment potential.

Where can I buy a 'Red Face Submariner'?

You can find 'Red Submariners' from reputable vintage watch dealers, auction houses specializing in watches, and online marketplaces. Exercise caution when buying online and always prioritize authenticity and condition.

References and Sources

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