For horology enthusiasts and discerning collectors, the Rolex Submariner stands as an undisputed icon. Its robust design, rich history, and unwavering functionality have cemented its place as one of the most revered and recognizable timepieces ever created. Within the vast and varied Submariner lineage, however, certain iterations stand out, commanding even greater attention and desire. Among these coveted models, the "Red Face Submariner" – officially known as the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 with red text – reigns supreme, captivating collectors with its vintage charm, rarity, and a distinctive splash of color that sets it apart from its monochromatic brethren.

This comprehensive article delves into the world of the Red Face Submariner, exploring its history, key features, market value, and why it remains a grail watch for collectors worldwide. We'll unpack the nuances that differentiate it from other Submariner models, providing actionable insights for those looking to understand or even acquire this horological gem.

Decoding the Red Face Submariner: More Than Just a Splash of Color

The term "Red Face Submariner" is a colloquialism used to describe the Rolex Submariner Date reference 1680 produced from approximately 1969 to the mid-1970s. What makes this specific reference so special, and earns it the "Red Face" moniker, is the bold red printing of the word "Submariner" on its dial. This seemingly simple detail elevates the watch from a standard Submariner 1680 to a highly sought-after collector's piece.

While Rolex has experimented with color in various models throughout its history, the red text on the Submariner 1680 was a relatively short-lived design choice. It appeared during a transitional period in Rolex's production, adding a touch of visual flair to the otherwise utilitarian and tool-focused Submariner. This brief window of production, combined with the inherent appeal of the red accent, has resulted in the Red Face Submariner becoming a symbol of vintage Rolex collecting.

It's crucial to understand that not all Rolex Submariner 1680 models are "Red Face" Submariners. Later iterations of the 1680, produced after the mid-1970s, featured white text for "Submariner," making the red text versions distinct and significantly more valuable. Therefore, identifying a genuine Red Face Submariner requires careful examination and knowledge of its specific characteristics.

A Deep Dive into the History and Heritage of the Submariner 1680

To truly appreciate the Red Face Submariner, it's essential to understand its place within the broader context of Rolex Submariner history. The Submariner, first launched in 1953, quickly established itself as the benchmark for dive watches. Early Submariners were time-only models, prioritizing legibility and robustness for underwater exploration.

The reference 1680 marked a significant evolution for the Submariner as it was the first Submariner to feature a date complication. Introduced in the late 1960s, the 1680 offered a more practical everyday functionality alongside the Submariner's renowned diving capabilities. Initially, these 1680 models were produced with the distinctive red "Submariner" text, adding a unique visual element to this groundbreaking reference.

The transition from red to white text on the Submariner 1680 is not precisely documented by Rolex, adding to the mystique and collector interest. It's believed that the change occurred sometime in the mid-1970s, possibly as a subtle design refinement or simply a shift in production aesthetics. Regardless of the exact reason, this transition point solidified the Red Face Submariner's status as a limited production variant, enhancing its rarity and collectibility.

The Submariner 1680, in both its red and white text variations, utilized the Rolex caliber 1575 movement, a robust and reliable automatic movement with a date function. It retained the classic Submariner design cues, including the rotating bezel, Mercedes hands, and Oyster case, but with the added date window at 3 o'clock, magnified by the iconic Cyclops lens.

Key Features and Characteristics of the Red Face Submariner

Identifying a genuine Red Face Submariner involves paying close attention to several key features and details. These characteristics, when combined, help to authenticate a watch and differentiate it from later 1680 models or potential fakes. Here are the primary features to consider:

• Red "Submariner" Text: This is the most defining feature. The word "Submariner" printed on the dial should be in a vibrant red color. The font and placement should align with known examples of genuine Red Face Submariners.
• Date Function: As a reference 1680, it must have a date window at 3 o'clock with a Cyclops lens.
• Non-Quickset Date: The caliber 1575 movement in early 1680s is non-quickset. This means the date is advanced by repeatedly rotating the hour hand past midnight, not via a separate crown position. This is a crucial detail to verify.
• Acrylic Crystal: Red Face Submariners, being vintage models, feature an acrylic crystal (often referred to as Plexiglass). This is distinct from the sapphire crystals found in modern Rolex models. Look for the warm, slightly domed appearance of acrylic.
• Matte Dial: The dials of Red Face Submariners are typically matte black, contributing to their vintage tool watch aesthetic. Later 1680s with white text sometimes feature gloss dials, further distinguishing the red text variants.
• "Mark" Variations: Within the Red Face Submariner production, there are subtle dial variations known as "Marks" (Mark I, Mark II, Mark III, etc.). These variations relate to minor differences in font, spacing, and other dial details. While important for serious collectors, understanding these Marks requires deep research and specialized knowledge. For most, verifying the presence of red text and other general features is sufficient.
• Serial Number and Caseback: The serial number, typically located between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position, should fall within the production range associated with Red Face Submariners (roughly 1969 to mid-1970s). The caseback should be plain steel, consistent with Submariner models of this era.
• Bracelet: Red Face Submariners were originally fitted with Oyster bracelets, typically the folded link 9315 or 93150 bracelets with appropriate end links (often 280 or 580). Bracelet condition and originality are also factors for collectors.

When considering a Red Face Submariner, it is highly recommended to consult with reputable vintage Rolex dealers or experts who can thoroughly authenticate the watch and verify its originality. Due to their value, Red Face Submariners are often targets for counterfeiting and modification, making expert verification essential.

The Red Face Submariner in the Modern Collector's Market: Rarity and Value

The Red Face Submariner occupies a prominent position in the vintage Rolex collector's market. Its combination of rarity, historical significance, and aesthetic appeal has driven its value significantly over the years. Several factors contribute to its desirability and high market prices:

• Rarity: The relatively short production period of the Red Face Submariner makes it inherently rarer than later Submariner 1680 models with white text, or indeed, many other vintage Submariners.
• Historical Significance: As the first Submariner Date with red text, it represents a unique chapter in Submariner history and Rolex's design evolution.
• Vintage Aesthetic: The red text, combined with the matte dial, acrylic crystal, and vintage patina (aging), creates a highly appealing vintage aesthetic that resonates strongly with collectors.
• Iconic Status: The Submariner itself is an iconic watch, and the Red Face variant is seen as a particularly desirable and prestigious iteration within this legendary lineage.
• Investment Potential: Vintage Rolex watches, particularly rare and desirable models like the Red Face Submariner, have consistently demonstrated strong investment potential over the long term. Their value tends to appreciate, making them attractive assets for collectors and investors alike.

The market value of a Red Face Submariner can vary significantly based on several factors, including:

• Condition: Watches in excellent original condition, with sharp cases, original dials, and minimal wear, command premiums.
• Originality: Full originality, including dial, hands, bezel insert, bracelet, and movement parts, is crucial for value. Watches with replaced or non-original components will be less desirable and valuable.
• Dial Variation (Mark): Certain "Mark" variations, particularly early Marks, can be more sought after by hardcore collectors and may command slightly higher prices.
• Provenance: Watches with documented history, known ownership, or original box and papers can fetch higher prices.
• Market Fluctuations: Like any collectible market, the vintage watch market experiences fluctuations. However, strong demand for iconic vintage Rolex models like the Red Face Submariner generally sustains high values.

As of [Current Date - Insert Current Date Manually for up-to-date article], Red Face Submariners in good condition can easily command prices ranging from [Insert Current Price Range - Research current market prices on reputable vintage watch dealer websites and auction results]. Exceptional examples with boxes, papers, and pristine condition can reach significantly higher values. It's crucial to conduct thorough research and consult with experts for accurate pricing and valuation before buying or selling a Red Face Submariner.

Actionable Insights for Aspiring Red Face Submariner Owners

For those captivated by the allure of the Red Face Submariner and considering acquiring one, here are some actionable insights to guide your journey:

1. Educate Yourself: Thorough research is paramount. Study the history of the Submariner 1680, understand the key features of Red Face variants, and learn about dial variations and potential pitfalls. Utilize reputable online resources, books, and forums dedicated to vintage Rolex.
2. Establish a Budget: Red Face Submariners are significant investments. Determine your comfortable budget range and be realistic about market prices. Be prepared to potentially invest a substantial sum for a genuine and well-preserved example.
3. Find Reputable Sources: Seek out established and reputable vintage Rolex dealers or auction houses with proven track records and expertise in vintage Submariners. Avoid purchasing from unknown or unverified sources, especially online marketplaces without robust authentication processes.
4. Prioritize Authenticity and Condition: Focus on acquiring a genuine Red Face Submariner in the best possible original condition within your budget. Authenticity trumps all else. Condition significantly impacts value and long-term enjoyment.
5. Seek Expert Authentication: Before finalizing any purchase, insist on professional authentication from a trusted vintage Rolex expert or service. This may involve physical inspection or sending the watch to a reputable authentication service.
6. Be Patient and Persistent: Finding the right Red Face Submariner may take time. Be patient, persistent, and don't rush into a purchase. The right watch will eventually emerge.
7. Consider Long-Term Ownership: View a Red Face Submariner as a long-term investment and a piece of horological history. Proper care and maintenance will preserve its value and ensure years of enjoyment.

FAQ: Your Burning Questions Answered About the Red Face Submariner

What exactly is a "Red Face Submariner"?

It's a nickname for the Rolex Submariner Date reference 1680 produced in the late 1960s and early to mid-1970s, characterized by the word "Submariner" printed in red on its dial.

Why is it called "Red Face"?

The name is derived from the prominent red "Submariner" text on the dial, which is the key distinguishing feature of this variant.

How can I tell if a Submariner 1680 is a genuine "Red Face"?

Verify the red "Submariner" text, non-quickset date, acrylic crystal, matte dial, and serial number range. Consult with a vintage Rolex expert for definitive authentication.

Are all Rolex Submariner 1680 models "Red Face"?

No. Only the early production 1680 models from the late 1960s and early to mid-1970s featured red text. Later 1680s have white text and are not considered "Red Face" Submariners.

How much is a Red Face Submariner worth?

Value varies greatly based on condition, originality, and market conditions. Generally, prices start at [Insert Lower Price Range] and can go much higher for exceptional examples. Research current market prices from reputable sources.

Is a Red Face Submariner a good investment?

Historically, yes. Rare vintage Rolex watches like the Red Face Submariner have shown strong appreciation over time. However, investment involves risk, and past performance is not indicative of future results. Acquire it primarily for passion and appreciation, with potential investment upside as a secondary benefit.

Where can I buy a Red Face Submariner?

Reputable vintage Rolex dealers, established auction houses specializing in watches, and trusted online platforms with strong authentication processes are your best sources.

What should I look for when buying a Red Face Submariner?

Authenticity, originality, condition, and provenance are paramount. Thoroughly research the watch, seek expert authentication, and buy from reputable sources.

Conclusion: The Scarlet Standard of Submariner Collectibility

The Red Face Submariner is more than just a vintage Rolex; it's a symbol of horological history, a testament to design evolution, and a beacon of collectibility. Its distinctive red text, coupled with its rarity and iconic Submariner DNA, elevates it to a grail watch status for discerning collectors worldwide. Understanding its history, features, and market dynamics is crucial for anyone seeking to appreciate or acquire this horological masterpiece.

For those fortunate enough to own a Red Face Submariner, it's a privilege to possess a piece of watchmaking legend. For those aspiring to own one, the journey of research, discovery, and the eventual acquisition is a rewarding pursuit in the fascinating world of vintage Rolex collecting. The Red Face Submariner remains a vibrant and enduring testament to the enduring allure of the Rolex Submariner and the captivating power of a simple splash of red.

References and Further Reading:

• [Insert Link to a Reputable Vintage Rolex Website/Forum]
• [Insert Link to a Reputable Watch Auction House Archive Search for Red Face Submariner Results]
• [Mention a specific book on Rolex Submariner history if applicable]
• [Cite a well-regarded article or blog post about Red Face Submariners]