The Rolex Explorer II. Often overshadowed by its Submariner and GMT-Master II siblings, this robust and functional timepiece deserves its own spotlight. In this comprehensive Rolex Explorer II review, we delve into every facet of this remarkable watch, exploring its history, design evolution, key features, on-wrist experience, and ultimately, whether it's the right Rolex for you. If you're considering adding a rugged and reliable companion to your collection, or perhaps seeking your first luxury watch, read on to discover why the Explorer II is more than just a tool watch – it's a statement of adventure and understated sophistication.
A Legacy of Exploration: Tracing the Explorer II's Heritage
To truly appreciate the Rolex Explorer II, understanding its lineage is crucial. Born in 1971 with the reference 1655, the Explorer II was designed as a dedicated tool watch for speleologists and polar explorers – individuals operating in environments where distinguishing day from night was paramount. This original model, nicknamed the "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") due to its prominent 24-hour hand with an arrow tip, was a bold departure from Rolex's classic designs. It featured a fixed 24-hour bezel, a large orange 24-hour hand, and a robust stainless steel construction.
Over the years, the Explorer II has undergone several iterations, each refining its functionality and aesthetics while staying true to its adventurous DNA. Key milestones include:
- Reference 1655 (1971-1985): The original "Freccione," known for its distinctive orange 24-hour hand and non-hacking movement. A cult classic appreciated for its vintage charm and unique design.
- Reference 16550 (1985-1989): A transitional model that introduced the caliber 3085 movement, featuring a hacking seconds hand and independent setting of the 24-hour hand. Offered with both black and white "polar" dials. Early white dials are prone to "tropicalizing" to a cream color, highly sought after by collectors.
- Reference 16570 (1989-2011): A long-running and highly successful reference. Initially powered by the caliber 3185 and later the caliber 3186, it refined the design with a slimmer profile and improved movement. Offered with black and polar dials, it became a favorite for its versatility and value proposition within the Rolex sports watch lineup.
- Reference 216570 (2011-2021): Introduced for the Explorer II's 40th anniversary, this model significantly increased the case size to 42mm and brought back the iconic orange 24-hour hand, reminiscent of the original 1655. Equipped with the caliber 3187 movement, featuring Paraflex shock absorbers and a Parachrom hairspring.
- Reference 226570 (2021-Present): The current generation Explorer II. While visually similar to the 216570, it houses the upgraded caliber 3285 movement, offering improved efficiency and performance. Features subtle refinements to the case and bracelet for enhanced wearability.
This evolutionary journey underscores Rolex's commitment to continuous improvement, ensuring the Explorer II remains a cutting-edge tool watch while honoring its adventurous heritage.
Design and Aesthetics: Rugged Elegance in Stainless Steel
The Rolex Explorer II strikes a compelling balance between robust functionality and refined aesthetics. It's a sports watch that can seamlessly transition from outdoor adventures to more formal settings, a testament to its versatile design.
The Case and Bezel: Built for Durability
Crafted exclusively in Oystersteel (Rolex's proprietary 904L stainless steel), the Explorer II case is renowned for its exceptional corrosion resistance and durability. The current 42mm case size (previously 40mm in the 16570) offers a substantial wrist presence without being overly bulky. The brushed finish on the case top and polished sides provide a sophisticated contrast. The fixed 24-hour bezel, also in Oystersteel, is a defining feature. Engraved with bold numerals, it serves as a crucial component for tracking a second time zone or distinguishing AM/PM hours when paired with the 24-hour hand.
Dial Variations: Polar White vs. Classic Black
The Explorer II is available with two dial options: black and polar white. The "polar" white dial, often considered the signature Explorer II look, is exceptionally legible and offers a striking contrast with the black hands and hour markers. The black dial provides a more classic and understated aesthetic, favored by those seeking a more traditional sports watch appearance. Both dial variations feature applied hour markers filled with Chromalight luminescent material, providing exceptional nighttime visibility. The Mercedes-style hour hand and baton minute hand are instantly recognizable Rolex hallmarks.
The Oyster Bracelet: Comfort and Security
The Explorer II is fitted with the iconic Oyster bracelet, constructed from solid Oystersteel links. Known for its robustness and comfort, the Oyster bracelet is a cornerstone of Rolex sports watch design. It features a brushed finish to complement the case and a secure Oysterlock safety clasp, preventing accidental opening. The Easylink comfort extension system, integrated into the clasp, allows for approximately 5mm of tool-free adjustment, ensuring a perfect fit in varying conditions.
Overall Aesthetic: Tool Watch Refinement
The Explorer II's design language is undeniably that of a tool watch – functional, legible, and built to withstand demanding environments. However, Rolex's meticulous attention to detail and high-quality materials elevate it beyond a purely utilitarian instrument. The polished accents, precise finishing, and balanced proportions create a watch that is both rugged and refined, appealing to a broad spectrum of watch enthusiasts.
Features and Functionality: Beyond Timekeeping
The Rolex Explorer II is more than just a pretty face; it's packed with features designed for adventurers and global travelers.
GMT Functionality: Tracking a Second Time Zone
The cornerstone of the Explorer II's functionality is its GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) complication. The independent 24-hour hand, in conjunction with the fixed 24-hour bezel, allows the wearer to track a second time zone. This is invaluable for travelers who need to keep track of time back home or in another location. The local hour hand can be independently adjusted in one-hour increments without stopping the watch, making time zone adjustments quick and easy.
24-Hour Bezel: AM/PM Indication and More
The fixed 24-hour bezel serves multiple purposes. Primarily, it works in tandem with the 24-hour hand to display a second time zone. However, it can also be used to quickly distinguish between AM and PM hours in the primary time zone, a crucial feature for explorers in environments with prolonged periods of daylight or darkness. The robust steel bezel is highly scratch-resistant and built to withstand the rigors of daily wear.
Caliber 3285 Movement: Precision and Reliability
The current Explorer II (ref. 226570) is powered by the Rolex caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement is at the forefront of watchmaking technology, offering exceptional precision, reliability, and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. It incorporates the Chronergy escapement, optimized for energy efficiency and magnetic resistance. Like all Rolex Perpetual movements, the 3285 is a certified Superlative Chronometer, guaranteeing exceptional performance exceeding COSC standards.
Chromalight Display: Superior Low-Light Legibility
Rolex's Chromalight display utilizes a long-lasting blue luminescence on the hour markers and hands, providing exceptional legibility in low-light conditions. This is a significant advantage for explorers and anyone who needs to read their watch in the dark, ensuring clear timekeeping regardless of the environment.
Water Resistance: Ready for Aquatic Adventures
The Explorer II boasts a water resistance of 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and other water activities. The Triplock winding crown, featuring a triple waterproofness system, further enhances its water resistance and ensures reliable performance in wet environments.
Durability and Robustness: Built to Endure
Every aspect of the Explorer II is engineered for durability. From the robust Oystersteel case and bracelet to the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the shock-absorbing Paraflex system within the movement, this watch is built to withstand the demands of an active lifestyle and challenging environments. It's a timepiece designed to be a reliable companion, wherever your adventures take you.
On the Wrist Experience: Comfort and Presence
Wearing the Rolex Explorer II is a distinct experience. The 42mm case size offers a noticeable presence on the wrist without feeling cumbersome. The Oyster bracelet is remarkably comfortable for daily wear, molding to the wrist over time. The watch has a substantial weight, lending a feeling of quality and robustness. The legibility of the dial is exceptional in all lighting conditions, and the GMT function is intuitive and practical for frequent travelers. The overall wrist feel is one of confident reliability and understated luxury. It's a watch that feels equally at home in the boardroom as it does on a hiking trail.
Pros and Cons: Weighing the Explorer II
Like any watch, the Rolex Explorer II has its strengths and weaknesses. Here's a balanced perspective:
Pros:
- Robust and Durable: Built to withstand demanding conditions.
- GMT Functionality: Practical for travelers and those tracking multiple time zones.
- Excellent Legibility: Chromalight display ensures readability in all conditions.
- Versatile Design: Suitable for both casual and more formal settings.
- Comfortable Oyster Bracelet: Designed for all-day wear.
- High-Quality Movement: Caliber 3285 offers exceptional performance and reliability.
- Rolex Heritage and Prestige: Carries the weight of the Rolex brand and its reputation for excellence.
- Strong Resale Value: Rolex watches generally hold their value well, making it a relatively safe investment.
Cons:
- Price Point: Rolex watches are a significant investment, and the Explorer II is no exception.
- Availability: Demand often outstrips supply, making it challenging to purchase at authorized dealers.
- 42mm Size May Be Too Large for Some: While well-proportioned, the 42mm case might be too big for smaller wrists (though the previous 40mm 16570 remains a viable pre-owned option).
- Fixed Bezel: While functional, the fixed bezel lacks the rotating bezel functionality of dive watches or some other GMT models.
- Less Iconic Than Other Rolex Sports Models: The Explorer II sometimes lives in the shadow of the Submariner and GMT-Master II in terms of mainstream recognition.
Who is the Rolex Explorer II For?
The Rolex Explorer II appeals to a specific type of watch enthusiast. It's ideal for:
- Adventurers and Outdoor Enthusiasts: Its robust build and functionality make it a perfect companion for exploration and outdoor activities.
- Travelers: The GMT function is invaluable for frequent travelers needing to track multiple time zones.
- Those Seeking Understated Rolex Luxury: It offers Rolex quality and prestige in a slightly less flashy package than some of its more iconic siblings.
- Collectors: The Explorer II has a rich history and is appreciated by collectors for its unique design and evolution.
- Anyone Appreciating Functional Design: If you value practicality, legibility, and robust engineering, the Explorer II is a compelling choice.
Essentially, the Explorer II is for individuals who appreciate a high-quality, functional timepiece that can handle anything life throws at it, while still maintaining a sense of understated elegance.
Alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II
While the Explorer II is a standout watch, there are alternatives to consider depending on your priorities and budget:
- Rolex GMT-Master II: The more iconic Rolex GMT, featuring a rotating bezel and ceramic bezel insert. Generally more expensive and harder to obtain than the Explorer II.
- Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT: A robust and capable GMT dive watch from Omega, often available at a slightly lower price point than the Explorer II.
- Tudor Black Bay GMT: Offers a vintage-inspired design and GMT functionality at a more accessible price point, also from the Rolex family.
- Grand Seiko GMT Models (e.g., SBGE255, SBGM221): Known for exceptional finishing and innovative movements, Grand Seiko offers various GMT models in different styles and price ranges.
- Longines Spirit Zulu Time: A relatively new entrant offering excellent value with a vintage-inspired design and GMT function.
Exploring these alternatives can help you make an informed decision based on your specific needs and preferences.
Buying a Rolex Explorer II: Considerations and Tips
Purchasing a Rolex Explorer II, like any Rolex, requires careful consideration:
- Authorized Dealer (AD) vs. Grey Market: Buying from an AD ensures authenticity and warranty, but waitlists can be long. The grey market offers immediate availability but at a premium price and potentially without manufacturer's warranty (depending on the seller).
- Price: The retail price of the Explorer II is set by Rolex, but market prices often fluctuate, particularly on the grey market. Research current market values before making a purchase.
- Condition (Pre-Owned): If considering a pre-owned model, carefully inspect the watch for condition, authenticity, and service history. Buy from reputable dealers.
- Paperwork and Box: Full sets (including original box, papers, and accessories) generally command higher prices, especially for vintage models.
- Patience: Obtaining a new Explorer II from an AD may require patience and building a relationship with the dealer.
Due diligence and research are essential when purchasing any luxury watch, especially a Rolex.
FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Explorer II
- What is the Rolex Explorer II known for?
- The Rolex Explorer II is known for its robust construction, GMT functionality, excellent legibility, and versatile design. It's a tool watch built for adventure and exploration.
- What is the price of a Rolex Explorer II?
- The retail price varies slightly depending on location and year. Refer to the official Rolex website or authorized dealers for the most up-to-date pricing. Grey market prices will typically be higher than retail, especially for in-demand models.
- What are the dial options for the Explorer II?
- The Explorer II is available with two dial options: black and polar white (often referred to as the "polar" dial).
- What is the case size of the Rolex Explorer II?
- The current reference 226570 has a 42mm case diameter. The previous reference 16570 had a 40mm case.
- Is the Rolex Explorer II a good investment?
- Rolex watches generally hold their value well and often appreciate over time, especially in stainless steel sports models. The Explorer II is considered a strong investment, but market conditions can fluctuate. It's always wise to view watch purchases primarily as a passion rather than solely an investment.
- Is the Rolex Explorer II water resistant?
- Yes, the Rolex Explorer II is water resistant to 100 meters (330 feet), suitable for swimming and snorkeling.
- What movement is in the current Rolex Explorer II?
- The current Rolex Explorer II (ref. 226570) is powered by the Rolex caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement with GMT functionality and a 70-hour power reserve.
- How does the GMT function on the Explorer II work?
- The Explorer II has a 24-hour hand that independently tracks a second time zone in conjunction with the fixed 24-hour bezel. The local hour hand can be adjusted independently in one-hour increments for easy time zone changes.