The Rolex Submariner. Just the name itself evokes images of deep-sea exploration, daring adventures, and timeless style. More than just a watch, the Submariner has become a cultural icon, a symbol of horological excellence and enduring design. But before the countless variations and modern iterations, there was the "original" Rolex Submariner. This article delves into the fascinating history, evolution, and enduring appeal of these pioneering models, exploring why they remain highly sought-after by collectors and revered by watch enthusiasts worldwide. We'll journey back to the 1950s, uncover the key references that defined the Submariner's early years, and understand what makes these original models so incredibly special.
The early 1950s were a time of burgeoning underwater exploration and recreational diving. Jacques Cousteau's groundbreaking documentaries were captivating audiences, and the world was becoming increasingly fascinated by the mysteries of the deep. Rolex, always at the forefront of innovation, recognized the need for a robust and reliable timepiece specifically designed for divers.
In 1953, Rolex unveiled the Submariner, reference 6204. This wasn't just another watch; it was a purpose-built instrument engineered to withstand the pressures and challenges of underwater environments. While not the very first dive watch ever created, the Submariner quickly established itself as the benchmark, thanks to Rolex's unwavering commitment to quality, functionality, and marketing prowess.
The initial Submariners were relatively simple in design, reflecting their tool-watch origins. Key features that defined these early models included:
- Water Resistance: Initially rated to 100 meters (330 feet), a remarkable feat for the time.
- Rotating Bezel: A crucial innovation allowing divers to track elapsed time underwater, enhancing safety during dives. The early bezels were often bi-directional and lacked minute markers for the first 15 minutes.
- Oyster Case: Rolex's patented Oyster case construction, providing exceptional water and dust resistance.
- Luminous Markers and Hands: Ensuring legibility in low-light conditions underwater. Radium was used for luminescence in these early models, later replaced by safer materials like tritium.
- Automatic Movement: Powered by Rolex's robust and reliable automatic movements, ensuring consistent timekeeping without manual winding (though some very early models were manually wound).
These foundational elements cemented the Submariner's DNA and laid the groundwork for its future evolution.
The term "original Rolex Submariner" often refers to the earliest references produced in the 1950s and early 1960s. These models are particularly prized for their historical significance, rarity, and unique design characteristics. Here's a closer look at some of the most iconic early references:
Often considered the very first Submariner, the reference 6204 is incredibly rare and highly sought after. It featured a small crown, pencil hands, and a bi-directional bezel with no minute markers on the first 15 minutes. The "Submariner" name and depth rating (100m/330ft) were present on the dial, marking its purpose clearly. Powered by the caliber A260 movement.
Key Features:
- Small crown (often referred to as "small crown Submariner")
- Pencil hands
- Bi-directional bezel with no minute markers on the first 15 minutes
- Caliber A260 movement
- "Submariner" and depth rating on the dial
Building upon the 6204, the 6205 introduced a slightly larger crown and Mercedes hands, a design element that would become synonymous with the Submariner. The bezel remained bi-directional. Like the 6204, it is a very rare and valuable reference.
Key Features:
- Slightly larger crown than the 6204
- Mercedes hands
- Bi-directional bezel with no minute markers on the first 15 minutes
- Caliber A260 movement
- "Submariner" and depth rating on the dial
The reference 6200 is legendary for its oversized 8mm "Big Crown," which was designed to be easily operated even with diving gloves. It's also notable for being waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet) and featuring a different dial layout with "Submariner" positioned above "Officially Certified Chronometer." This reference is incredibly rare and commands extremely high prices at auction.
Key Features:
- Large 8mm "Big Crown"
- Waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet)
- "Submariner" above "Officially Certified Chronometer" on the dial
- Mercedes hands
- Bi-directional bezel with no minute markers on the first 15 minutes
- A296 movement (some early examples may have A260)
Another "Big Crown" Submariner, the reference 6538 gained iconic status thanks to its appearance on the wrist of Sean Connery as James Bond in early Bond films like "Dr. No" and "Goldfinger." While not officially endorsed by Rolex in the films, its association with 007 further cemented the Submariner's cool and adventurous image. The 6538 typically features a red triangle at the 12 o'clock position on the bezel and a chronometer-certified movement.
Key Features:
- Large 8mm "Big Crown"
- Red triangle on the bezel at 12 o'clock
- Chronometer-certified movement (Caliber 1030)
- Mercedes hands
- Bi-directional bezel (later models may have minute markers for the first 15 minutes)
- "Submariner" and "Officially Certified Chronometer" on the dial
These references represent a shift back to a smaller crown size while maintaining chronometer certification. The 6536/1 and 6536 are similar, with the 6536/1 typically considered to be slightly later and potentially incorporating minor refinements. These models offer a more understated aesthetic compared to the "Big Crown" references but are still highly collectible.
Key Features:
- Smaller crown (often referred to as "small crown Submariner")
- Chronometer-certified movement (Caliber 1030)
- Mercedes hands
- Bi-directional bezel (later models may have minute markers for the first 15 minutes)
- "Submariner" and "Officially Certified Chronometer" on the dial
The 5508 is considered a transitional model, bridging the gap between the early "no-crown-guard" Submariners and the models that would introduce crown guards. It still features a small crown and no crown guards, but often has a slightly different case shape and dial variations compared to earlier small crown references. It’s a less commonly discussed reference but still holds significance in the Submariner lineage.
Key Features:
- Small crown
- No crown guards
- Transitional case shape
- Mercedes hands
- Bi-directional bezel (often with minute markers for the first 15 minutes)
- Caliber 1530 movement
- "Submariner" and depth rating on the dial
The allure of "original" Rolex Submariners goes beyond mere functionality. They represent:
- Historical Significance: These are the watches that pioneered the dive watch category and shaped the future of horology. Owning an original Submariner is owning a piece of watchmaking history.
- Rarity: Produced in relatively small numbers and often subjected to harsh conditions, surviving examples of these early references are increasingly scarce. Rarity directly translates to higher value in the collector's market.
- Design Purity: The minimalist and functional design of the original Submariners is highly appreciated for its timeless aesthetic. Collectors often favor the cleaner dials and simpler bezels of these early models.
- Investment Potential: The value of vintage Rolex watches, particularly early Submariners, has consistently appreciated over time. They are considered strong investments and often outperform traditional financial assets.
- Patina and Character: The aging process on vintage watches, known as patina, is highly valued by collectors. Dials that have aged to warm hues, faded bezel inserts, and subtle wear marks all contribute to the unique character and story of an original Submariner.
However, the high demand and value also mean that the market is rife with fakes and frankenwatches (watches assembled from parts of different watches). Therefore, extreme caution and due diligence are essential when considering purchasing an original Rolex Submariner.
Purchasing an original Rolex Submariner is a significant investment and requires careful consideration. Here are crucial tips for navigating the vintage market:
- Buy from Reputable Sources: Seek out established and reputable vintage watch dealers, auction houses specializing in watches, or trusted online marketplaces with strong seller verification and buyer protection policies.
- Thoroughly Research the Specific Reference: Before making a purchase, become an expert on the specific reference you are interested in. Understand its dial variations, bezel types, movement, caseback markings, and production years. Use online resources, books, and collector forums to educate yourself.
- Examine the Watch in Person (If Possible): Ideally, inspect the watch in person before buying. This allows you to assess its condition, verify details, and get a feel for its authenticity.
- Check Serial and Reference Numbers: Verify the serial and reference numbers engraved on the case. These numbers can be used to date the watch and confirm its reference. Use online Rolex serial number databases to cross-reference information.
- Inspect the Dial and Hands Closely: Pay close attention to the dial printing, lume plots, and hand style. Look for inconsistencies, redials, or signs of tampering. Original dials should match the expected characteristics for the specific reference and era.
- Examine the Bezel and Insert: Verify that the bezel and insert are correct for the reference and period. Bezel inserts can be replaced, so check for signs of originality and proper aging.
- Movement Verification: If possible, have a watchmaker inspect the movement. Ensure it is the correct caliber for the reference and that it is functioning correctly. Movement authenticity is crucial.
- Ask for Provenance and Documentation: Inquire about the watch's history and any available documentation, such as original boxes, papers, service records, or receipts. Provenance can add significant value and confidence in authenticity.
- Seek Professional Authentication: Consider having the watch authenticated by a reputable independent watch authenticator or Rolex specialist before finalizing the purchase. This is especially important for high-value pieces.
- "Buy the Seller": Ultimately, the reputation and trustworthiness of the seller are paramount. Choose sellers with a proven track record in vintage Rolex and positive reviews from other collectors.
Remember, patience and knowledge are your best allies when seeking an original Rolex Submariner. Take your time, do your research, and don't rush into a purchase.
The original Rolex Submariner is more than just a vintage watch; it's a horological icon that embodies the spirit of adventure, innovation, and timeless design. From its pioneering beginnings in the 1950s to its enduring legacy today, the Submariner has consistently set the standard for dive watches and captured the imagination of watch enthusiasts worldwide. While acquiring an original model requires careful research and a significant investment, the reward is owning a piece of watchmaking history – a testament to Rolex's unwavering commitment to excellence and the enduring appeal of the Submariner legend. The "original" Rolex Submariner remains a pinnacle of watch collecting, a symbol of horological achievement, and a reminder of the golden age of exploration.
