In the vast ocean of horology, certain timepieces transcend their functional purpose and ascend to the realm of legend. Among these celebrated icons, the "Red Face Submariner," more accurately known as the Rolex Submariner 1680 with red text, stands as a beacon of desirability for collectors and enthusiasts alike. This article delves deep into the captivating world of the Red Face Submariner, exploring its history, evolution, rarity, value, and everything that makes it such a coveted piece. We'll navigate the nuances of this horological treasure, providing actionable insights and answering frequently asked questions to illuminate why the Red Face Submariner continues to command such reverence.

Unveiling the Red Face Submariner: More Than Just a Splash of Color

The term "Red Face Submariner," while catchy and descriptive, is a colloquialism for the Rolex Submariner reference 1680, specifically those models produced between roughly 1969 and 1975 that feature the model name "Submariner" printed in vibrant red on the dial. This seemingly minor detail – a touch of red ink – elevates these Submariners from mere tool watches to highly sought-after collector's items. It's crucial to understand that the "face" itself isn't red; rather, it's the black dial with distinctive red lettering that earns it this nickname.

The Submariner 1680 marked a significant milestone in the Submariner lineage. Introduced in the late 1960s, it was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, adding a new layer of practicality to this already iconic diver's watch. However, it's the early iterations with the red "Submariner" script that have captured the hearts of collectors, distinguishing them from later models where the text reverted to white.

The Genesis of Red: A Historical Context

The precise reason behind Rolex's decision to use red text for a limited period remains shrouded in some mystery, adding to the watch's mystique. However, several theories prevail:

• Visual Distinction: Red is a highly visible color, especially against a black background. It's possible Rolex intended the red text to enhance legibility underwater or simply to create a more visually striking dial.
• Transitional Phase: The red text period coincided with the introduction of the date function to the Submariner. Some speculate that the red script might have been a temporary design element to differentiate the new date-equipped model from its non-date predecessors (like the 5513).
• Marketing and Branding: Red is often associated with boldness and innovation. Rolex, known for its marketing prowess, might have used the red text as a subtle yet effective way to highlight the novelty of the date feature and attract attention to the updated Submariner.

Regardless of the exact rationale, the red text proved to be a relatively short-lived feature, making these early 1680s models inherently rarer than their white-text counterparts and subsequent Submariner iterations.

Decoding the Dial: Understanding "Mark" Variations in Red Face Submariners

The world of vintage Rolex collecting is often defined by minute details, and the Red Face Submariner is no exception. Within the red text 1680 production run, subtle dial variations, known as "Marks," exist. These variations, though seemingly minor, significantly impact a watch's desirability and value among seasoned collectors. Understanding these Marks is crucial for anyone looking to delve into the world of Red Face Submariners.

While the exact number of distinct "Marks" is debated and can be interpreted slightly differently by various experts, generally, collectors recognize several primary Mark variations, often categorized by the shape of the "f" in "Submariner," the spacing of the text, and other subtle font characteristics. Here's a simplified overview of some commonly recognized Marks:

• Mark I (or "Feet First" Dial): These are considered the earliest Red Submariners. They are characterized by the depth rating printed with "feet" measurement ("660ft") appearing before the "meters" measurement ("200m"). Mark I dials are incredibly rare and highly prized.
• Mark II (or "Meters First" Dial): In subsequent iterations, Rolex switched the order of the depth rating, placing "meters" first ("200m") followed by "feet" ("660ft"). Mark II dials are also highly sought after, though generally slightly less so than Mark I due to their relative (though still limited) availability.
• Later Marks (e.g., Mark III, Mark IV): As production continued, further subtle variations in font and text spacing emerged, leading to designations like Mark III and Mark IV. These later red text Marks, while still valuable, are often considered less desirable than the earlier Mark I and Mark II due to their slightly higher production numbers and subtle aesthetic differences.

Identifying these Marks requires a keen eye and often the assistance of experienced vintage Rolex specialists. Resources like online forums dedicated to Rolex collecting and reputable vintage watch dealers can provide valuable visual guides and expertise in distinguishing between these subtle dial variations.

The Rarity and Value Proposition: Why the Red Face Submariner Commands Premium Prices

The Red Face Submariner's allure extends far beyond its aesthetic appeal. Its desirability is deeply rooted in its inherent rarity, historical significance, and the passionate world of vintage Rolex collecting. Several factors contribute to its elevated value:

• Limited Production Period: The red text dials were only produced for a relatively short period (approximately 1969-1975), making them inherently less common than later white-text 1680s and subsequent Submariner models.
• Dial Variations (Marks): The existence of different dial Marks, with the earlier Marks being significantly rarer, further fragments the already limited pool of Red Face Submariners, driving up the prices for specific variations.
• Vintage Rolex Collectibility: Vintage Rolex watches, in general, are highly sought after by collectors due to their quality, historical significance, and investment potential. The Red Face Submariner, being a particularly distinctive and early example of a date-equipped Submariner, occupies a special place within this collector's market.
• Condition and Provenance: As with any vintage collectible, the condition of a Red Face Submariner plays a crucial role in its value. Watches in excellent original condition, with original parts and minimal wear, command significant premiums. Furthermore, provenance – the watch's history and ownership – can also impact its value, especially if it has a documented history of notable ownership or significant events.

Consequently, Red Face Submariners, particularly those in excellent condition with desirable Mark variations, can fetch prices significantly higher than standard vintage Submariner 1680s and even some later model Submariners. Prices can range from tens of thousands to well over a hundred thousand dollars depending on condition, Mark, and provenance. It's essential to conduct thorough research and consult with reputable dealers to accurately assess the value of a specific Red Face Submariner.

Identifying a Genuine Red Face Submariner: Guarding Against Fakes

The high value and desirability of Red Face Submariners unfortunately make them targets for counterfeiting and dial modifications. Protecting yourself from purchasing a fake or misrepresented watch requires vigilance and a thorough understanding of the genuine article. Here are key points to consider when identifying a genuine Red Face Submariner:

• Dial Authenticity: The red text should be crisp, correctly positioned, and feature the correct font for the specific Mark. Be wary of dials where the red text appears painted on or uneven. Examine the font details closely and compare them to known genuine examples (online resources and dealer inventories can be helpful).
• Case and Serial Number: Verify the case reference number (1680) and serial number are correct for the purported production period of a Red Face Submariner (roughly 1969-1975). Use online Rolex serial number databases to cross-reference the serial number with the expected production year.
• Movement: The genuine Red Face Submariner utilizes the Rolex caliber 1575 movement with date function. While examining the movement directly might require professional expertise, ensure the watch functions correctly, including the date complication.
• Cyclops Lens: The Submariner 1680 features a cyclops lens over the date window. Ensure the cyclops is correctly magnified and positioned.
• Bracelet and End Links: Check the bracelet and end links for correct Rolex markings and codes appropriate for the era of the watch.
• Professional Authentication: The most crucial step is to have any Red Face Submariner you are considering purchasing authenticated by a reputable vintage Rolex specialist or watch appraiser. They possess the expertise and tools to thoroughly examine the watch and confirm its authenticity.

Purchasing from reputable vintage watch dealers with a proven track record is highly recommended. Be wary of deals that seem too good to be true and always prioritize authentication before making a significant investment.

Owning a Red Face Submariner: A Collector's Journey

Acquiring a Red Face Submariner is more than just buying a vintage watch; it's embarking on a collector's journey. It's about appreciating horological history, understanding the nuances of vintage Rolex, and owning a piece of iconic design. For those considering adding a Red Face Submariner to their collection, here are some key considerations:

• Define Your Budget: Red Face Submariners represent a significant investment. Establish a clear budget before you begin your search to avoid overspending or making impulsive decisions.
• Research and Education: Immerse yourself in the world of Red Face Submariners. Learn about the different Marks, production years, and key features. The more knowledge you have, the better equipped you'll be to make informed decisions.
• Patience is Key: Finding the right Red Face Submariner, especially one in excellent condition and within your budget, may take time. Be patient and persistent in your search.
• Focus on Condition: Prioritize condition over rarity in some cases. A well-preserved, genuine example, even if it's a slightly later Mark, might be a more satisfying purchase than a rarer Mark in poor condition.
• Build Relationships with Dealers: Establish relationships with reputable vintage watch dealers. They can provide valuable insights, access to inventory, and authentication services.
• Enjoy the Process: Collecting vintage watches should be an enjoyable pursuit. Savor the research, the hunt, and ultimately, the ownership of a piece of horological history like the Red Face Submariner.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Red Face Submariner

The Red Face Submariner is more than just a vintage Rolex; it's a symbol of horological evolution, a testament to subtle design details, and a highly coveted collector's item. Its enigmatic red text, combined with its historical significance as the first date-equipped Submariner, ensures its continued allure for generations to come. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a budding enthusiast, the Red Face Submariner represents the pinnacle of vintage sports watch desirability, embodying the timeless appeal and enduring legacy of Rolex.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the Red Face Submariner

What exactly is a "Red Face Submariner"?

It's a nickname for the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 produced roughly between 1969 and 1975, characterized by the word "Submariner" printed in red on the black dial.

Why is the Red Face Submariner so valuable?

Its value stems from its limited production period, dial variations ("Marks"), historical significance as the first date Submariner, and the overall desirability of vintage Rolex sports watches. Rarity and condition are key factors driving its price.

How can I tell if a Red Face Submariner is genuine?

Carefully examine the dial text, case reference and serial numbers, movement, and bracelet. Crucially, seek professional authentication from a reputable vintage Rolex specialist before purchasing.

What are "Mark" variations in Red Face Submariners?

These are subtle dial variations within the red text production run, primarily distinguished by font characteristics and text spacing. Mark I and Mark II are generally considered the most desirable and rare.

Where can I buy a Red Face Submariner?

Reputable vintage watch dealers specializing in Rolex are the best source. Online marketplaces can be options, but exercise extreme caution and prioritize authentication.

Is a Red Face Submariner a good investment?

Historically, vintage Rolex sports watches, including Red Face Submariners, have proven to be strong investments. However, market fluctuations exist, and past performance is not indicative of future results. Buy for the passion of collecting, and consider potential appreciation a bonus.

References and Sources

While specific URLs are constantly evolving, the following types of resources are authoritative for information on Red Face Submariners:

• Rolex Official Website: (For general Submariner history and model information - specific vintage details may be limited)
• Reputable Vintage Watch Dealer Websites: (Often feature detailed descriptions and historical context for Red Face Submariners they have for sale or in their archives)
• Online Rolex Forums and Communities: (Platforms like Rolex Forums, WatchUSeek Vintage & Military Watch Forum – valuable for discussions, collector insights, and visual guides. Exercise caution and verify information.)
• Books on Rolex Watches: (Numerous books dedicated to Rolex history and models provide in-depth information, though specific focus on Red Face Submariners may vary. Search for books on vintage Rolex Submariners.)
• Auction House Archives: (Christie's, Sotheby's, Phillips – their watch auction archives often contain detailed descriptions and provenance information for Red Face Submariners sold at auction.)

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and should not be considered financial or investment advice. The vintage watch market is complex and values can fluctuate. Always conduct thorough research and seek expert advice before making any purchase decisions.