The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a luxury watch; it's a statement. A harmonious blend of robustness, functionality, and distinctive aesthetics, the Root Beer has carved a unique niche within the prestigious Rolex GMT-Master II lineage. This article delves deep into the captivating world of the Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer, exploring its history, design evolution, current models, investment potential, and everything you need to know about this coveted timepiece.
A Rich History Brewed in Brown and Gold
The "Root Beer" nickname, affectionately bestowed by watch enthusiasts, stems from the watch's signature brown and gold color scheme, reminiscent of the popular soda. While the name is playful, the watch itself is serious horology, steeped in history and innovation. To understand the Root Beer's allure, we must journey back to its origins.
The Dawn of the Two-Tone GMT-Master (Reference 1675/3)
The story begins in the late 1960s and early 1970s with the introduction of the GMT-Master reference 1675/3. This model marked a significant departure from the predominantly stainless steel GMT-Masters that preceded it. The 1675/3 embraced a luxurious two-tone aesthetic, combining stainless steel with 18k yellow gold. Critically, it featured a brown bezel insert, often in Bakelite or later aluminum, paired with a brown dial. This combination, although not officially named "Root Beer" by Rolex, is widely considered the progenitor of the Root Beer aesthetic.
This original two-tone GMT-Master resonated with a clientele seeking a blend of sportiness and elegance. It offered the GMT-Master's renowned functionality – the ability to track multiple time zones – within a more opulent and visually striking package. The warm tones of brown and gold presented a sophisticated alternative to the bolder, more utilitarian stainless steel models.
Evolution Through Generations: From 16753 to 16713
Rolex continued to refine the two-tone GMT-Master throughout the late 20th century. The reference 16753 succeeded the 1675/3, maintaining the core design language but incorporating improvements in movement and materials. Later, the reference 16713 emerged, further modernizing the design. These iterations retained the brown bezel and often featured brown dials, solidifying the "Root Beer" identity in the minds of collectors.
These vintage "Root Beer" models, particularly those in excellent condition with original components, are highly sought after by collectors. Their rarity and historical significance contribute to their desirability and value in the pre-owned market.
The Modern Root Beer Renaissance: References 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR
After a period where the "Root Beer" aesthetic was absent from the GMT-Master II lineup, Rolex reintroduced it with a bang in 2018. The arrival of the references 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR marked a triumphant return and a significant evolution of the Root Beer concept.
Reference 126711CHNR: Everose Rolesor Root Beer
The Rolex GMT-Master II 126711CHNR, crafted in Everose Rolesor (a combination of Oystersteel and 18k Everose gold), is arguably the most popular modern Root Beer. It boasts several key upgrades and design refinements:
- Ceramic Bezel: Replacing the aluminum bezels of previous generations, the 126711CHNR features a "Cerachrom" bezel insert in brown and black ceramic. This ceramic bezel is virtually scratchproof, fade-resistant, and incredibly durable, ensuring the watch's aesthetic appeal endures for generations. The two-tone ceramic bezel is a technical marvel, created using a patented process to achieve the distinct color separation.
- Everose Gold Accents: The warm tones of Everose gold, Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy, are used for the bezel numerals and graduations, the crown, the center links of the Oyster bracelet (in Rolesor models), and the hands and indices. Everose gold is known for its exceptional resistance to fading, maintaining its rosy hue over time.
- Maxi Case and Dial: The 126711CHNR features Rolex's "Maxi" case and dial design, characterized by larger hour markers and hands. This enhances legibility and provides a more contemporary and robust presence on the wrist.
- Caliber 3285 Movement: Powering the 126711CHNR is the Rolex caliber 3285, a cutting-edge, in-house developed and manufactured movement. This movement boasts a Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency, a Parachrom hairspring for greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations, and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The caliber 3285 is a Superlative Chronometer, certified by COSC and further tested by Rolex to ensure exceptional precision and reliability.
- Oyster Bracelet and Jubilee Bracelet Options: The 126711CHNR is available on both the robust Oyster bracelet and the dressier Jubilee bracelet, both crafted in Everose Rolesor. The Oyster bracelet offers a more sporty and tool-watch aesthetic, while the Jubilee bracelet provides a more refined and elegant look. Both bracelets feature Rolex's Easylink comfort extension system, allowing for quick and easy adjustments to the bracelet length.
Reference 126715CHNR: Full Everose Gold Root Beer
For those seeking the ultimate expression of luxury and Root Beer style, the Rolex GMT-Master II 126715CHNR in full 18k Everose gold is the pinnacle. This model shares the same features as the 126711CHNR but is entirely crafted from Everose gold, including the case and bracelet. The weight and warmth of the full gold version elevate the Root Beer to an entirely new level of opulence.
Why the Root Beer Resonates: Appeal and Versatility
The Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer's enduring appeal stems from a combination of factors:
- Distinctive Aesthetics: The brown and black bezel, coupled with the warm tones of gold, creates a unique and eye-catching aesthetic that stands out from the crowd. It's a departure from the more common black and blue or black and red GMT-Master bezels, offering a sophisticated and less overtly sporty look.
- Versatility: Despite its luxurious materials, the Root Beer remains surprisingly versatile. It can be dressed up or down, pairing equally well with a suit or casual attire. Its blend of sportiness and elegance makes it suitable for various occasions.
- Travel Heritage: The GMT-Master II is inherently linked to travel and exploration. The Root Beer, with its warm, earthy tones, evokes a sense of adventure and global sophistication. It's a watch that speaks to wanderlust and international style.
- Investment Potential: Rolex watches, particularly the GMT-Master II models, are known for their strong value retention and appreciation. The Root Beer, especially the modern references, is highly sought after and often trades at a premium on the secondary market. Its desirability and limited availability contribute to its investment potential. [1]
- Celebrity Endorsements (Implicit): While Rolex doesn't officially endorse celebrities, the Root Beer has been spotted on the wrists of numerous high-profile individuals, further enhancing its desirability and "cool factor." This subtle celebrity association adds to its cachet. [2]
- Comfort and Wearability: Despite its robust construction, the GMT-Master II Root Beer is designed for comfortable everyday wear. The ergonomic case, well-designed bracelets, and Easylink extension system ensure a comfortable fit on a variety of wrist sizes.
Buying a Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer: Considerations and Availability
Acquiring a Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer, particularly the current production models, can be challenging due to high demand and limited supply. Here's what you need to consider:
Authorized Dealers (ADs) vs. Grey Market
The ideal route is to purchase from an Authorized Rolex Dealer (AD). This ensures authenticity, warranty, and the official retail price. However, waitlists for popular models like the Root Beer are often lengthy, potentially stretching months or even years. Building a relationship with an AD and demonstrating genuine interest in the brand can improve your chances of allocation.
The grey market offers an alternative for those unwilling to wait or unable to secure an allocation from an AD. Grey market dealers sell unworn watches sourced from various channels, often at prices above retail. While you can acquire a Root Beer more quickly through the grey market, be prepared to pay a premium. Always purchase from reputable grey market dealers and thoroughly authenticate the watch before purchase.
Pricing and Budget
Retail prices for the Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer vary depending on the model and materials. As of [Insert Current Year - e.g., 2023], approximate retail prices are:
- 126711CHNR (Everose Rolesor): Approximately $[Insert Current Retail Price - e.g., $15,700]
- 126715CHNR (Full Everose Gold): Approximately $[Insert Current Retail Price - e.g., $40,200]
Grey market prices can fluctuate based on demand and availability but are typically significantly higher than retail, especially for in-demand models like the Root Beer. Factor in potential premiums when considering grey market purchases.
Authenticity and Due Diligence
Regardless of where you purchase, always prioritize authenticity. Buy from reputable sources, whether ADs or well-established grey market dealers. If buying pre-owned, thoroughly inspect the watch and its documentation. Verify the serial number, check for consistent finishing and details, and consider having the watch authenticated by a Rolex service center or independent watch expert if you have any doubts.
Alternatives to the Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer
While the Root Beer is unique, if you're exploring watches with a similar aesthetic or functionality, consider these alternatives:
- Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G: Tudor, Rolex's sister brand, offers the Black Bay GMT S&G (Steel & Gold), which provides a similar two-tone aesthetic and GMT functionality at a more accessible price point. [3]
- Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT: The Omega Planet Ocean GMT offers robust dive watch capabilities combined with GMT functionality. While not brown and gold, certain variations feature warm color palettes and offer a sporty alternative.
- Grand Seiko GMT Models: Grand Seiko offers a range of GMT watches known for their exceptional finishing and Spring Drive movements. Explore their models with brown or gold accents for a refined and high-quality alternative.
FAQ: Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer
What does "Root Beer" mean in Rolex watches?
The "Root Beer" nickname refers to Rolex watches, primarily GMT-Master II models, with a brown and gold or brown and black color scheme, reminiscent of the Root Beer soda. It's not an official Rolex designation but a popular term among watch enthusiasts.
Is the Rolex Root Beer a good investment?
Rolex GMT-Master II models, including the Root Beer, are generally considered good investments due to their strong brand recognition, demand, and limited production. Historical data and market trends suggest potential for value appreciation, especially for well-maintained examples and current production models. However, watch investments are subject to market fluctuations, and past performance is not indicative of future results.
What are the current Rolex Root Beer models?
The current Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer models are the reference 126711CHNR (Everose Rolesor) and 126715CHNR (Full Everose Gold). These models feature ceramic bezels and the caliber 3285 movement.
Is the Root Beer GMT-Master II discontinued?
No, the modern Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer references 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR are currently in production as of [Insert Current Year - e.g., 2023]. However, availability can be limited.
What is the movement in the Rolex Root Beer GMT-Master II?
The current Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer models are powered by the Rolex caliber 3285, an in-house, self-winding mechanical movement with GMT functionality, a Chronergy escapement, and a 70-hour power reserve.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Root Beer
The Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer is a testament to Rolex's mastery of watchmaking and design. From its vintage origins to its modern iterations, the Root Beer has captivated watch enthusiasts with its unique aesthetics, robust functionality, and undeniable allure. It's a watch that embodies both luxury and practicality, adventure and sophistication. Whether you're a seasoned collector, a frequent traveler, or simply someone who appreciates exceptional timepieces, the Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer remains a true icon, a timeless classic that continues to brew desirability in the world of horology.
References and Further Reading
- WatchTime: 5 Rolex Watches That Are Great Investments (Example - Replace with actual article if found)
- Bob's Watches: Celebrity Rolex Owners (Example - Replace with actual article if found)
- Hodinkee: Introducing The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G (Example - Replace with actual review if found)
- Official Rolex Website: GMT-Master II 126711CHNR
- Official Rolex Website: GMT-Master II 126715CHNR