The Rolex Submariner. The very name conjures images of deep-sea exploration, timeless style, and unwavering prestige. While the all-steel Submariner remains an icon in its own right, the 2 tone Rolex Submariner, often referred to as the "Rolesor" model, elevates this legendary timepiece to a new echelon of luxury and versatility. This article delves into the captivating world of the two-tone Submariner, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it continues to be a sought-after choice for discerning watch enthusiasts worldwide.
Decoding the Allure: What is a 2 Tone Rolex Submariner?
At its heart, a 2 tone Rolex Submariner is a masterful blend of robust functionality and opulent aesthetics. The term "2 tone" refers to the combination of two distinct precious metals in its construction. In Rolex terminology, this is known as "Rolesor," a signature fusion of Oystersteel and gold. Specifically, in the context of the Submariner, this typically means an Oystersteel case and bracelet with elements crafted in yellow gold or Everose gold (Rolex's proprietary rose gold alloy).
The key components that typically feature the gold element in a two-tone Submariner include:
- Bezel: The unidirectional rotatable bezel, a crucial tool for divers, often features a gold insert or a Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel with gold markings.
- Crown: The Triplock winding crown, ensuring water resistance, is often crafted in gold.
- Center Bracelet Links: The most visually striking aspect of the Rolesor Submariner is the gold center links of the Oyster bracelet, contrasting beautifully with the steel outer links.
- Hands and Hour Markers: While not always gold itself, the hands and hour markers are often gold-applied or filled with gold to complement the overall two-tone aesthetic.
This strategic application of gold elevates the Submariner beyond its tool-watch origins, transforming it into a statement piece that seamlessly transitions from the depths of the ocean to the boardroom or a sophisticated evening event. It's this duality – the ruggedness of steel and the refinement of gold – that forms the core of the two-tone Submariner's enduring appeal.
A Legacy Forged in Two Metals: The History of the Two-Tone Submariner
Rolex has a long and storied history with two-tone watches, dating back to the early 20th century. The concept of "Rolesor" was officially trademarked by Rolex in 1933, highlighting their pioneering approach to combining different metals for both aesthetic and functional purposes. While the all-steel Submariner was initially conceived as a purely utilitarian diver's watch in 1953, the introduction of precious metal variations, including two-tone models, broadened its appeal and positioned it as a luxury sports watch.
The first two-tone Submariners emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s, coinciding with a growing appreciation for luxury sports watches and a shift in societal perceptions of what constituted acceptable everyday wear. These early models, often featuring yellow gold accents, resonated with a clientele seeking a watch that was both robust and elegant. They represented a departure from the purely functional image of the steel Submariner, offering a touch of opulence without sacrificing its inherent tool watch DNA.
Over the decades, the 2 tone Rolex Submariner has evolved through various iterations, mirroring the advancements and refinements of the core Submariner collection. From the classic aluminum bezels of earlier models to the scratch-resistant Cerachrom bezels of contemporary versions, and from Tritium lume to Chromalight, the two-tone Submariner has consistently incorporated the latest Rolex innovations while maintaining its signature aesthetic.
Iconic references like the 16613 (yellow gold and steel) and more recently, the 116613 and 126613 (featuring Cerachrom bezels and updated movements) have cemented the two-tone Submariner's place as a cornerstone of the Rolex lineup, embodying a perfect balance between sportiness and luxury.
The Aesthetic Symphony: Why Choose a Two-Tone Submariner?
The decision to opt for a 2 tone Rolex Submariner is often driven by a desire for a watch that offers more than just timekeeping. It's about making a statement, expressing a personal style, and appreciating the harmonious blend of contrasting materials. Here's a breakdown of the key aesthetic advantages:
- Versatility: The two-tone Submariner occupies a unique space between the understated elegance of an all-steel watch and the overt luxury of a full gold timepiece. This inherent versatility makes it suitable for a wider range of occasions, from casual everyday wear to more formal settings. It complements both jeans and a suit, offering a sophisticated touch without being overly ostentatious.
- Visual Interest and Contrast: The interplay between the cool sheen of Oystersteel and the warm glow of gold creates a visually dynamic and captivating aesthetic. This contrast draws the eye and adds depth to the watch's design, making it more visually engaging than a monochromatic steel model.
- Subtle Luxury: For those who appreciate luxury but prefer a more understated approach, the two-tone Submariner strikes the perfect balance. It offers the prestige and inherent value of gold without being as overtly flashy as a full gold watch. It's a sophisticated statement of success and refined taste, recognizable to those in the know, yet not aggressively attention-seeking.
- Warmth and Character: The addition of gold imparts a warmth and richness to the Submariner's design. It softens the utilitarian edge of the steel, adding a touch of character and personality. This warmth can be particularly appealing to individuals who appreciate classic and timeless aesthetics.
- Investment Value and Heritage: Like all Rolex watches, the two-tone Submariner holds its value remarkably well and often appreciates over time. Choosing a Rolesor model adds an extra layer of inherent value due to the inclusion of gold, making it not only a beautiful timepiece but also a sound investment. Owning a two-tone Submariner is also owning a piece of Rolex heritage, connecting you to a legacy of watchmaking excellence.
Exploring the Generations: Iconic 2 Tone Submariner Models
Throughout its history, the 2 tone Rolex Submariner has been available in various configurations, each with its own distinct charm and appeal. Here are a few notable examples:
- Rolex Submariner 16613 (Yellow Gold & Steel): This reference is arguably the quintessential two-tone Submariner. Produced from the late 1980s until the late 2000s, the 16613 is characterized by its aluminum bezel insert (often in blue or black), yellow gold accents, and classic Submariner proportions. It's a highly sought-after model in the pre-owned market, representing a classic era of Rolex design.
- Rolex Submariner 116613 (Yellow Gold & Steel with Cerachrom Bezel): Introduced in the late 2000s, the 116613 marked a significant upgrade with the introduction of the scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic bezel. This model also featured a "Super Case" with broader lugs and crown guards, giving it a more substantial wrist presence. The 116613 is renowned for its durability and modern aesthetics.
- Rolex Submariner 126613 (Yellow Gold & Steel with Updated Movement): The current generation 126613, released in 2020, builds upon the 116613 with subtle refinements to the case proportions and the inclusion of the updated Rolex caliber 3235 movement. This movement offers improved performance, accuracy, and a longer power reserve. The 126613 represents the pinnacle of the two-tone Submariner, combining Rolex's latest technology with its iconic design language.
- Rolex Submariner 126613LB (Yellow Gold & Steel with Blue Cerachrom Bezel - "Bluesy"): The "Bluesy" is a particularly popular variant of the 126613, featuring a striking blue Cerachrom bezel and a vibrant blue dial. This combination is instantly recognizable and highly desirable, often commanding a premium in both the new and pre-owned markets.
- Rolex Submariner 126613LN (Yellow Gold & Steel with Black Cerachrom Bezel): A more understated yet equally elegant option, the 126613LN features a classic black Cerachrom bezel and a black dial, offering a timeless and versatile aesthetic.
- Rolex Submariner 126653 (Yellow Gold & Steel Submariner Date Rolesor Yellow Gold): This reference number specifically denotes the current production yellow gold and steel Submariner Date model.
When choosing a 2 tone Rolex Submariner, considering the specific reference and its features, such as the bezel material, dial color, and movement, is crucial to finding the perfect watch that aligns with your personal preferences and style.
Investing in Rolesor: The Value Proposition of a 2 Tone Submariner
Rolex watches are widely recognized as excellent investments, and the 2 tone Rolex Submariner is no exception. Several factors contribute to its strong value proposition:
- Brand Prestige and Demand: Rolex is arguably the most recognized and respected luxury watch brand globally. Demand consistently outstrips supply for many Rolex models, including the Submariner, driving up both new and pre-owned prices.
- Inherent Value of Gold: The inclusion of gold in the Rolesor construction adds inherent material value to the watch. Gold is a precious metal that historically holds its value and often appreciates over time, providing a hedge against inflation and economic uncertainty.
- Durability and Longevity: Rolex watches are renowned for their robust construction and longevity. A well-maintained 2 tone Rolex Submariner can last for generations, making it a legacy piece that can be passed down through families.
- Limited Production and Scarcity: Rolex carefully controls production, and certain models, particularly those in precious metals, can be difficult to acquire at authorized dealers, leading to scarcity and increased value in the secondary market.
- Timeless Design and Enduring Appeal: The Submariner's design is iconic and timeless, transcending fleeting trends. Its enduring appeal ensures that it remains desirable and sought-after year after year, contributing to its long-term value retention.
While past performance is not indicative of future results, historically, well-maintained 2 tone Rolex Submariners have demonstrated strong value appreciation in the pre-owned market. However, it's crucial to remember that watch collecting should primarily be driven by passion and appreciation for horology, with investment potential being a secondary consideration.
Who is the 2 Tone Submariner For?
The 2 tone Rolex Submariner appeals to a broad spectrum of watch enthusiasts, including:
- Those Seeking Versatility: Individuals who desire a watch that can seamlessly transition between different settings and styles, from casual to formal.
- Appreciators of Subtle Luxury: Those who appreciate the finer things in life but prefer a more understated expression of luxury compared to full gold watches.
- Collectors and Investors: Watch collectors and investors who recognize the inherent value, prestige, and potential appreciation of Rolex timepieces, especially Rolesor models.
- Individuals with a Classic Style: Those who gravitate towards timeless and elegant designs that transcend fleeting trends.
- Rolex Enthusiasts: Dedicated Rolex aficionados who appreciate the brand's heritage, craftsmanship, and innovation, and who seek to add a quintessential two-tone model to their collection.
Acquiring Your Two-Tone Treasure: Buying Guide
Purchasing a 2 tone Rolex Submariner is an exciting endeavor. Here are some key considerations for prospective buyers:
- Authorized Dealers (ADs) vs. Pre-Owned Market:
- Authorized Dealers: Buying from an AD guarantees authenticity and provides the full Rolex warranty. However, availability can be limited, and waiting lists are common for popular models like the Submariner.
- Pre-Owned Market: The pre-owned market offers a wider selection and often immediate availability. However, due diligence is crucial to ensure authenticity and condition. Purchase from reputable dealers with strong reviews and authentication processes.
- Authenticity Verification: When buying pre-owned, thorough authenticity verification is paramount. Look for reputable dealers who offer certificates of authenticity and have expertise in Rolex watches. Examine the watch carefully for telltale signs of authenticity, and if possible, have it authenticated by a qualified watchmaker.
- Condition and History: Assess the watch's condition carefully, considering factors like scratches, dents, bracelet stretch, and service history. Request information about the watch's provenance and any previous servicing.
- Budget and Market Prices: Research current market prices for the specific 2 tone Rolex Submariner reference you are interested in. Prices can vary depending on condition, age, and market demand. Set a realistic budget and be prepared to negotiate.
- Paperwork and Box: Ideally, purchase a watch with its original box and papers (warranty card, booklets, etc.). While not essential for authenticity (a watch can be authentic without papers), complete sets often command a premium and enhance the watch's collectibility.
Caring for Your Rolesor Masterpiece: Maintenance and Longevity
To ensure the longevity and beauty of your 2 tone Rolex Submariner, proper care and maintenance are essential:
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and mild soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry gently. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends professional servicing every 5-10 years, depending on usage and wear. Servicing ensures the movement remains in optimal condition and maintains water resistance. Use authorized Rolex service centers or reputable independent watchmakers.
- Avoid Extreme Conditions: While the Submariner is robust, avoid exposing it to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, and harsh impacts.
- Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe and dry place, ideally in its original box or a watch case.
- Bracelet Care: Clean the bracelet regularly to remove dirt and grime buildup. Be mindful of bracelet stretch over time, and consider professional servicing if needed.
Conclusion: The Timeless Elegance of the 2 Tone Rolex Submariner
The 2 tone Rolex Submariner stands as a testament to Rolex's mastery of blending robust functionality with refined luxury. It's more than just a dive watch; it's a symbol of enduring style, versatility, and horological excellence. From its rich history and iconic design to its inherent value and broad appeal, the two-tone Submariner continues to captivate watch enthusiasts and remains a coveted timepiece for those seeking a watch that embodies both strength and sophistication. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a first-time Rolex buyer, the allure of the Rolesor Submariner is undeniable, offering a timeless elegance that transcends generations.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- Is a 2 tone Rolex Submariner made of real gold?
- Yes, the gold components of a 2 tone Rolex Submariner are made of real gold. Rolex uses 18k yellow gold or 18k Everose gold (their proprietary rose gold alloy) in Rolesor models, combined with Oystersteel.
- Is a 2 tone Submariner a good investment?
- Historically, Rolex watches, including two-tone Submariners, have held their value well and often appreciated over time. Factors like model, condition, and market demand influence investment potential. However, watch collecting should be driven by passion first, with investment being a secondary consideration.
- Can you wear a 2 tone Submariner every day?
- Absolutely. The 2 tone Submariner is designed for everyday wear. Its robust construction, scratch-resistant materials (like Cerachrom bezels in modern models), and versatile style make it suitable for daily use in various settings.
- How do you clean a 2 tone Rolex Submariner?
- Clean your watch with a soft cloth and mild soapy water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry gently. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Regular cleaning will help maintain its shine and appearance.
- Where can I buy a 2 tone Rolex Submariner?
- You can purchase a new 2 tone Submariner from authorized Rolex dealers (ADs). However, availability can be limited. The pre-owned market offers a wider selection from reputable dealers and online platforms specializing in luxury watches.
References & Further Reading
- Official Rolex Website: www.rolex.com
- Hodinkee: www.hodinkee.com
- WatchTime: www.watchtime.com
- Fratello Watches: www.fratellowatches.com