The Rolex Submariner. Even the name itself evokes images of deep-sea exploration, timeless style, and unwavering quality. While the all-steel Submariner is undoubtedly the purist's choice and the gold versions exude ultimate luxury, there's a captivating middle ground that has captured the hearts of watch enthusiasts for decades: the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner.

This article delves into the world of the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner, exploring its history, appeal, variations, investment potential, and everything you need to know about this iconic timepiece. We'll uncover why this blend of robust Oystersteel and luxurious gold has cemented its place as a cornerstone of the Rolex collection and a coveted watch for collectors and everyday wearers alike.

What is a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner? Decoding 'Rolesor'

Before we dive deeper, let's clarify what exactly constitutes a "two-tone" Rolex Submariner. In Rolex parlance, "two-tone" is officially known as "Rolesor." This term, coined by Rolex, signifies the harmonious marriage of two precious metals – in the case of the Submariner, it's Oystersteel and gold.

Specifically, Rolesor Submariners typically feature:

• Oystersteel Case and Bracelet Center Links: Renowned for its durability, corrosion resistance, and beautiful sheen, Oystersteel forms the foundation of the watch's robustness.
• 18k Yellow or Everose Gold Bezel, Crown, and Bracelet Center Links (in some models): Adding a touch of opulence and warmth, the gold elements elevate the Submariner from a purely utilitarian tool watch to a statement of refined taste.

This combination isn't just about aesthetics; it's a strategic choice by Rolex. Oystersteel provides the ruggedness and reliability expected of a Submariner, while the gold injects a luxurious element, making it versatile enough for both adventurous pursuits and sophisticated occasions.

A Brief History of the Two-Tone Submariner

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 (Reference 6204), quickly establishing itself as the archetypal diver's watch. However, it wasn't until the late 1960s that Rolex began experimenting with precious metals in the Submariner line. The introduction of the Reference 1680/3 in the late 1960s marked the official debut of the two-tone Submariner in yellow gold and steel. This model, featuring a blue or black dial and bezel, was a significant departure from the purely tool-focused steel models and signaled a shift towards greater versatility and broader appeal.

Over the decades, the two-tone Submariner has evolved alongside its steel and gold counterparts, benefiting from technological advancements and design refinements. Key milestones include:

• Introduction of Sapphire Crystal (Reference 16800 series, 1979): Offering superior scratch resistance compared to the previous acrylic crystals.
• Caliber 3135 Movement (Reference 16613, 1988): A highly reliable and accurate automatic movement that became the workhorse for Rolex for many years.
• Ceramic Bezel (Cerachrom) (Reference 116613, 2008): An incredibly durable and fade-resistant ceramic bezel insert, replacing the previous aluminum inserts.
• Maxi Case and Chromalight Display (Reference 116613, 2008): A more substantial case design and improved luminescence for enhanced readability in low-light conditions.
• Caliber 3235 Movement (Reference 126613, 2020): The latest generation movement offering improved efficiency, power reserve (approximately 70 hours), and overall performance. Also brought a slightly larger 41mm case size.

Each iteration has further refined the two-tone Submariner, solidifying its position as a highly desirable and technically advanced luxury sports watch.

Why Choose a Two-Tone Submariner? The Allure Explained

So, why opt for a two-tone Submariner over the all-steel or full gold versions? The appeal is multifaceted:

• Versatility and Style: The two-tone Submariner strikes a perfect balance between sporty robustness and elegant luxury. It's equally at home under a wetsuit or peeking out from under a suit cuff. The gold accents elevate the watch, making it suitable for dressier occasions while retaining the inherent ruggedness of the Submariner design.
• Distinctive Aesthetic: The contrast between the steel and gold creates a visually striking timepiece. It stands out from all-steel sports watches and offers a more understated luxury compared to full gold models. The Rolesor combination is instantly recognizable as Rolex, yet possesses a unique character.
• Investment Potential: Rolex watches, in general, are known for holding their value and often appreciating over time. Two-tone Submariners, especially well-maintained vintage and modern examples, are no exception. While not always appreciating as rapidly as certain steel sports models, they represent a solid and often appreciating asset.
• Timeless Appeal: The Submariner design is inherently timeless, and the two-tone variation has proven its enduring popularity over decades. It's a watch that transcends fleeting trends and remains stylish year after year.
• Entry Point to Gold: For those seeking a touch of gold in their watch collection without the full commitment and price of a solid gold timepiece, the two-tone Submariner offers an accessible and compelling option.

Key Two-Tone Submariner Models and Variations

Over the years, Rolex has offered the two-tone Submariner in several variations, primarily distinguished by dial color, bezel color, and the type of gold used.

Popular Models:

• Reference 16613 (1988-2010): A classic iteration featuring the Caliber 3135 movement, aluminum bezel insert, and available with black or blue dial and bezel combinations. Often referred to as the "classic" two-tone Submariner.
• Reference 116613 (2008-2020): Brought significant updates including the Cerachrom ceramic bezel, Maxi case, Chromalight display, and improved bracelet. Also available in black or blue dial/bezel and introduced the "Rolesor Bleu" model with a vibrant blue dial and bezel.
• Reference 126613 (2020-Present): The current generation, featuring the Caliber 3235 movement, a slightly larger 41mm case, and refined proportions. Continues to be offered with black and blue dial/bezel options.
• Everose Rolesor Models: In recent years, Rolex has also introduced two-tone Submariners in Everose Rolesor, combining Oystersteel with Rolex's proprietary Everose gold (a pink gold alloy). These models offer a warmer, more contemporary aesthetic.

Dial and Bezel Colors:

The most common dial and bezel color combinations for two-tone Submariners are:

• Black Dial and Bezel: A classic and versatile combination, often seen as the most traditional two-tone Submariner.
• Blue Dial and Bezel: A more vibrant and sporty option, particularly popular with the "Rolesor Bleu" model.

While less common, some vintage examples may exist with other dial variations, but black and blue are the standard and most readily available.

The Magic of 'Rolesor': A Closer Look at the Materials

The success of the two-tone Submariner lies not just in its design but also in the quality of the materials Rolex employs. "Rolesor" is more than just two colors; it's a carefully engineered combination:

• Oystersteel (904L Stainless Steel): Rolex exclusively uses 904L stainless steel for its steel watches. This grade is significantly more corrosion-resistant and durable than the more commonly used 316L stainless steel in the watch industry. It also polishes to a higher sheen, contributing to the overall luxurious feel.
• 18k Gold: Rolex manufactures its own 18k gold in its in-house foundry. This ensures complete control over the quality and purity of the gold used in Rolesor models. 18k gold is a perfect balance of purity and durability for watchmaking.

The meticulous crafting and integration of these materials are hallmarks of Rolex's commitment to quality and longevity. The Rolesor combination is designed to withstand the rigors of daily wear and maintain its beauty for generations.

Investing in a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner: A Smart Move?

Rolex watches are often considered excellent investments, and the two-tone Submariner is no exception. While past performance is not indicative of future results, several factors contribute to their investment potential:

• Brand Recognition and Demand: Rolex is arguably the most recognized and sought-after luxury watch brand globally. This inherent demand drives prices in both the primary and secondary markets.
• Limited Production: Rolex maintains tight control over its production, contributing to the scarcity and desirability of its watches.
• Durability and Longevity: Rolex watches are built to last. Their robust construction and high-quality materials ensure they can endure for decades, maintaining their value over time.
• Historical Significance: The Submariner is an iconic model with a rich history. Two-tone versions, while perhaps not as historically "pure" as the earliest steel models, are still integral to the Submariner legacy.

Factors influencing value:

• Model and Reference: Certain references, particularly vintage or discontinued models, may command higher premiums. Newer models with updated movements and features also hold strong value.
• Condition: Watches in excellent condition, with original boxes and papers, will always be more valuable than those with wear and tear or missing documentation.
• Dial and Bezel Configuration: Certain dial and bezel colors or rare variations may be more sought after by collectors.

Important Note: Investing in watches should be approached with caution. The watch market can fluctuate. It's crucial to do thorough research, buy from reputable sources, and consider watches primarily for personal enjoyment, with potential appreciation as a secondary benefit.

Buying a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner: Navigating the Market

Acquiring a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner requires navigating the current watch market landscape. Here are your primary options:

• Authorized Dealers (ADs): Purchasing from an Authorized Rolex Dealer is the ideal route for a brand-new watch. However, waitlists for popular models, including two-tone Submariners, can be significant. Building a relationship with an AD can improve your chances.
• Reputable Grey Market Dealers: The grey market offers new or unworn Rolex watches outside of the AD network. Prices are often at a premium above retail due to supply and demand. It's crucial to choose reputable grey market dealers with a strong track record and authenticity guarantees.
• Pre-Owned Market: The pre-owned market provides a wider range of options, including vintage and discontinued models. Prices can vary greatly depending on condition, age, and provenance. Thorough due diligence is essential when buying pre-owned, including verifying authenticity and condition.
• Online Marketplaces and Auctions: Online platforms and auction houses offer another avenue for finding two-tone Submariners. Exercise caution and research sellers thoroughly. Consider professional authentication services before finalizing a purchase, especially for higher-value vintage pieces.

Key Considerations When Buying:

• Authenticity: Rolex watches are heavily counterfeited. Buy from trusted sources and be prepared to authenticate the watch if purchasing pre-owned or from less established sellers.
• Condition: Assess the watch's condition carefully, especially for pre-owned examples. Look for signs of wear, damage, or over-polishing.
• Paperwork and Box: Original box and papers (warranty card) significantly enhance the value and authenticity of a Rolex.
• Price: Research current market prices for the specific model and condition you are considering. Be wary of deals that seem "too good to be true."

Caring for Your Rolex Two-Tone Submariner: Maintaining its Beauty and Value

Proper care will ensure your two-tone Submariner remains beautiful and retains its value for years to come:

• Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and mild soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry gently. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
• Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends a complete service every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Professional servicing ensures the movement is properly maintained and lubricated.
• Avoid Extreme Conditions: While robust, avoid subjecting your watch to extreme temperatures, shocks, or strong magnetic fields.
• Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a watch box or pouch to protect it from dust and scratches.
• Bracelet Care: Regularly clean the bracelet to remove dirt and grime buildup, especially in the gold crevices.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner

Q: What is the water resistance of a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner?

A: Modern Rolex Submariners are water-resistant to 300 meters (1000 feet). Vintage models may have lower water resistance ratings, so it's essential to check the specific model and have it pressure-tested if you plan to use it for diving.

Q: Is the gold on a two-tone Submariner solid gold?

A: Yes, the gold components (bezel, crown, bracelet center links) are made of solid 18k yellow or Everose gold, depending on the model.

Q: Will the gold on a two-tone Submariner scratch easily?

A: 18k gold is softer than Oystersteel, so it is more susceptible to scratches. However, Rolex's 18k gold alloys are formulated for durability. Regular wear will inevitably result in some minor scratches, which can be polished out during servicing if desired.

Q: How much does a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner cost?

A: Retail prices vary depending on the specific model and materials. As of [Insert Current Year], retail prices for new two-tone Submariners start around [Insert Approximate Starting Retail Price] USD. Grey market and pre-owned prices can fluctuate based on market demand and condition.

Q: Is a two-tone Submariner a good first Rolex?

A: Yes, for many, a two-tone Submariner can be an excellent first Rolex. It offers a blend of luxury and practicality, making it versatile for various occasions. It's a statement piece without being overly ostentatious, and it introduces you to the world of Rolex quality and craftsmanship.

Q: How can I authenticate a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner?

A: Authenticating a Rolex can be complex. Look for hallmarks of Rolex quality, such as precise finishing, correct engravings, and a smoothly operating movement. Compare details to known authentic examples. For pre-owned watches, consider professional authentication services offered by reputable watch specialists or auction houses.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Two-Tone Submariner

The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of enduring style, robust engineering, and aspirational luxury. It seamlessly blends the tool-watch DNA of the Submariner with the refined elegance of gold, creating a timepiece that is both versatile and captivating. Whether you're drawn to its historical significance, its distinctive aesthetic, or its investment potential, the two-tone Submariner remains a cornerstone of the Rolex collection and a highly desirable watch for discerning individuals worldwide.

Its continued popularity and evolution through generations are a testament to Rolex's mastery of watchmaking and the enduring allure of the Rolesor concept. The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is not just a watch for today; it's a legacy on the wrist, destined to be admired for decades to come.

References and Sources:

1. Rolex Official Website: https://www.rolex.com
2. Hodinkee: https://www.hodinkee.com
3. WatchTime: https://www.watchtime.com
4. Chrono24: https://www.chrono24.com
5. Bob's Watches: https://www.bobswatches.com