The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a timepiece; it's a statement. Synonymous with luxury, travel, and a distinctive vintage charm, this iconic watch, known for its unique brown and black bezel, has captivated watch enthusiasts and collectors for decades. From its humble beginnings as a tool watch for Pan Am pilots to its current status as a highly sought-after symbol of prestige, the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II boasts a rich history, sophisticated design, and enduring appeal. This comprehensive guide explores everything you need to know about the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," delving into its history, design evolution, various models, market value, and why it remains a horological icon.
The Genesis of the "Root Beer" Bezel: A Nod to Vintage Elegance
The story of the "Root Beer" bezel begins with the broader narrative of the Rolex GMT-Master. Originally launched in 1955, the GMT-Master (Greenwich Mean Time-Master) was developed in collaboration with Pan American Airways to meet the needs of pilots navigating across multiple time zones. The original model, reference 6542, featured a red and blue "Pepsi" bezel, a design choice intended for practical day/night differentiation.
However, the "Root Beer" bezel, characterized by its warm brown and contrasting black hues (sometimes appearing as brown and gold in earlier iterations), emerged later, adding a touch of sophistication and a departure from the more utilitarian aesthetic of the "Pepsi" bezel. The exact origins of the "Root Beer" moniker are debated, but it's widely believed to be a colloquial nickname inspired by the color combination resembling the popular soft drink. Some argue it may also be linked to the warm, earthy tones reminiscent of root beer barrels or the drink itself.
The first "Root Beer" bezel appeared on GMT-Master models in the late 1960s and early 1970s, notably on references 1675/3 and 1675/8. These early models, often crafted in Rolesor (two-tone steel and gold) or solid 18k gold, cemented the "Root Beer" as a luxurious and distinctive variant within the GMT-Master family. These vintage "Root Beer" GMTs are highly prized by collectors today for their rarity and vintage charm.
Design Evolution and Key Features of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"
The modern Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" continues the legacy of its predecessors, blending vintage-inspired aesthetics with cutting-edge watchmaking technology. Here's a breakdown of the key design elements and features:
The Iconic Bezel: Cerachrom Brown and Black
The defining feature of the "Root Beer" is undoubtedly its bi-color bezel. In modern iterations, this is crafted from Rolex's proprietary Cerachrom ceramic. The brown and black Cerachrom bezel is not only incredibly scratch-resistant and fade-proof but also boasts a deep, lustrous finish that enhances the watch's luxurious appeal. The numerals and graduations on the bezel are molded and then filled with platinum or gold using a PVD process, ensuring exceptional legibility and longevity.
Materials: Oystersteel, Everose Gold, and Rolesor
The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is available in a range of materials, each contributing to its unique character:
- Oystersteel: For those seeking a robust and sporty aesthetic, the Oystersteel "Root Beer" (Ref. 126710GRNR, though currently with a grey and black bezel, future iterations could reintroduce brown/black) offers exceptional durability and a contemporary feel.
- Everose Gold: The solid 18k Everose gold "Root Beer" (Ref. 126715CHNR) exudes ultimate luxury and warmth. Everose gold, Rolex's patented rose gold alloy, is known for its exceptional resistance to fading and maintains its beautiful hue over time.
- Rolesor (Everose Rolesor): Combining the strength of Oystersteel with the opulence of Everose gold, the Everose Rolesor "Root Beer" (Ref. 126711CHNR) offers a perfect balance of sportiness and elegance. The two-tone combination beautifully complements the brown and black bezel.
The GMT Function: Tracking Multiple Time Zones
At its core, the GMT-Master II is a tool watch designed for global travelers. The "Root Beer" retains this essential function, allowing the wearer to track multiple time zones simultaneously. This is achieved through:
- 24-Hour Hand: A distinct hand that completes one rotation every 24 hours, pointing to the 24-hour markings on the bezel.
- Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel: Allows for quick setting of a second time zone.
- Independent Hour Hand: The local hour hand can be independently adjusted in one-hour increments without stopping the watch or affecting the minute and seconds hands, making time zone adjustments seamless.
The Dial and Hands: Legibility and Refinement
The dial of the "Root Beer" is designed for optimal legibility in all conditions. Features include:
- Maxi Dial (on modern models): Larger hour markers and hands, filled with Chromalight luminescent material for long-lasting blue luminescence in low light.
- Applied Hour Markers: Crafted from 18k gold (on gold and Rolesor models) or white gold (on steel models), adding depth and a touch of luxury.
- Mercedes Hands: A signature Rolex design, known for their distinctive shape and readability.
- Cyclops Lens: Magnifies the date aperture at 3 o'clock for enhanced readability.
The Movement: Calibre 3285 - Precision and Reliability
Powering the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is Rolex's calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement boasts:
- Chronergy Escapement: Optimizes energy efficiency and reliability.
- Parachrom Hairspring: Paramagnetic and highly resistant to shocks and temperature variations.
- 70-Hour Power Reserve: Ensures the watch will continue running even if left unworn for a weekend.
- Superlative Chronometer Certification: Rolex's in-house certification, guaranteeing exceptional precision and performance, exceeding COSC standards.
Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" Models and References: A Guide
Navigating the world of "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models can be complex. Here's a breakdown of key references, spanning vintage and modern eras:
Vintage "Root Beer" Models:
- Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3 (1970s-1980s): The quintessential vintage "Root Beer," often featuring a brown and gold bezel (sometimes fading to more brown and black over time), a nipple dial (applied gold indices), and a Jubilee bracelet or Oyster bracelet. Powered by Calibre 1575. Highly collectible.
- Rolex GMT-Master 1675/8 (1970s-1980s): Solid 18k gold version of the 1675/3, offering ultimate luxury and rarity. Also featured a nipple dial and Jubilee or Oyster bracelet.
Modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II Models:
- Rolex GMT-Master II 126711CHNR (Everose Rolesor "Root Beer"): Introduced in 2018, this model brought the "Root Beer" bezel back to the GMT-Master II line in a modern context. Features a Cerachrom brown and black bezel, black dial, Oyster bracelet, and is powered by Calibre 3285. Highly popular and sought after.
- Rolex GMT-Master II 126715CHNR (Everose Gold "Root Beer"): Also introduced in 2018, the full Everose gold version of the "Root Beer" represents the pinnacle of luxury within the collection. Features the same Cerachrom bezel, dial, and movement as the 126711CHNR, but in solid 18k Everose gold.
It's important to note that while reference 126710GRNR is a modern GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with a grey and black bezel, it is not considered a "Root Beer" in the traditional sense. The true "Root Beer" designation is reserved for models with the brown and black (or brown and gold) bezel color scheme.
Market Value and Investment Potential of the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II
The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer," in both vintage and modern forms, holds significant market value and is often considered a strong investment. Several factors contribute to this:
- Iconic Status: The "Root Beer" bezel is instantly recognizable and carries a unique vintage charm that sets it apart from other GMT-Master II models.
- Rarity (Vintage Models): Vintage references 1675/3 and 1675/8, particularly in excellent condition, are increasingly rare and command premium prices in the pre-owned market.
- Demand (Modern Models): The modern references 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR are highly sought after and often difficult to obtain at retail, leading to significant premiums on the secondary market.
- Rolex Brand Prestige: Rolex as a brand consistently holds its value and appreciates over time, making its watches, especially iconic models like the "Root Beer," attractive investments.
- Material Value: Gold and Rolesor "Root Beer" models inherently possess material value due to the precious metals used in their construction.
Current Market Prices:
- Vintage 1675/3 "Root Beer": Prices can range from $15,000 to $30,000+ depending on condition, originality, and presence of box and papers. Gold versions (1675/8) command significantly higher prices.
- Modern 126711CHNR "Root Beer" (Rolesor): Retail price is around $15,700 USD, but market prices often exceed $20,000 - $25,000+ due to high demand and limited availability.
- Modern 126715CHNR "Root Beer" (Everose Gold): Retail price is around $40,400 USD, with market prices often reaching $50,000 - $60,000+ or even higher.
As with any investment, it's crucial to conduct thorough research and consult with reputable watch dealers or experts before purchasing a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, especially in the pre-owned market. Condition, originality, and provenance are key factors influencing value.
Who is the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" For?
The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II appeals to a diverse range of watch enthusiasts:
- Collectors: Vintage "Root Beer" models are highly prized by collectors seeking iconic and historically significant Rolex timepieces. Modern "Root Beers" are also becoming increasingly collectible due to their popularity and limited availability.
- Travelers: The GMT function makes the "Root Beer" a practical tool for frequent travelers who need to track multiple time zones.
- Luxury Watch Enthusiasts: The "Root Beer" embodies Rolex's reputation for quality, precision, and luxury, appealing to those who appreciate fine watchmaking.
- Style-Conscious Individuals: The unique brown and black bezel and the warm tones of gold (in Rolesor and gold models) offer a distinctive and sophisticated aesthetic that stands out from more common watch designs.
- Investors: The "Root Beer" GMT-Master II's strong market value and potential for appreciation make it an attractive investment for those looking to diversify their portfolio with tangible assets.
Buying a Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer": Tips and Considerations
Acquiring a "Root Beer" GMT-Master II, especially a modern model, can be challenging due to high demand. Here are some tips for prospective buyers:
- Authorized Dealers (ADs): Starting with Rolex Authorized Dealers is the ideal approach for purchasing a new "Root Beer." However, waitlists can be long, and availability is not guaranteed. Build a relationship with your AD and express your genuine interest.
- Reputable Pre-Owned Marketplaces: For vintage and modern "Root Beers," reputable pre-owned marketplaces and dealers can offer a wider selection. Ensure you buy from trusted sources with a proven track record and authentication services.
- Authentication is Key: Especially in the pre-owned market, thorough authentication is crucial. Work with reputable dealers or consider professional authentication services to verify the watch's authenticity and originality.
- Condition Matters: Condition significantly impacts value. Assess the watch's condition carefully, looking for signs of wear, damage, or polishing. Original components and unpolished cases are generally more desirable for vintage models.
- Box and Papers: While not always essential, having the original box and papers (warranty card, booklets) can enhance the value and collectibility, particularly for vintage models.
- Be Patient: Finding the right "Root Beer" GMT-Master II may take time and patience. Be prepared to wait or explore different avenues to secure your desired model.
Care and Maintenance for Your "Root Beer" GMT-Master II
To ensure your Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" remains in excellent condition and retains its value, proper care and maintenance are essential:
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft cloth and mild soapy water to remove dirt and grime. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry gently.
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Avoid exposing your watch to harsh chemicals, solvents, or extreme temperatures.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends professional servicing every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Rolex service centers or authorized service providers have the expertise and tools to properly maintain your watch.
- Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe, dry place, ideally in its original box or a watch winder.
- Be Mindful of Water Resistance: While Rolex watches are water-resistant, be mindful of the depth rating and avoid activities that exceed it. Have the water resistance checked periodically, especially after battery changes (for quartz models, though not applicable to the GMT-Master II) or if the watch has been subjected to impacts.
Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"
The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of timeless style, horological excellence, and global adventure. From its vintage origins to its modern iterations, the "Root Beer" bezel has consistently captivated watch enthusiasts with its unique aesthetic and enduring appeal. Whether you're a seasoned collector, a frequent traveler, or simply someone who appreciates the finer things in life, the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II represents a pinnacle of watchmaking and a legacy that continues to resonate with discerning individuals worldwide. Its blend of vintage charm, modern technology, and robust investment potential ensures its place as a true icon in the world of luxury timepieces.
FAQ Section: Common Questions About the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"
- What is a Rolex "Root Beer"?
- The "Root Beer" is a nickname for Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II watches featuring a brown and black (or brown and gold in vintage models) bezel. The name is inspired by the color combination resembling the popular soft drink.
- What are the different "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models available today?
- Currently, the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is available in Everose Rolesor (Ref. 126711CHNR) and solid 18k Everose Gold (Ref. 126715CHNR).
- Is the "Root Beer" GMT-Master II a good investment?
- Yes, both vintage and modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II models are generally considered good investments due to their iconic status, rarity, high demand, and Rolex's brand prestige. Prices in the pre-owned market often exceed retail prices.
- How much does a Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II cost?
- Retail prices for modern "Root Beer" models are approximately $15,700 USD for the Rolesor version and $40,400 USD for the Everose Gold version. However, market prices can be significantly higher due to limited availability.
- Where can I buy a Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II?
- You can attempt to purchase a new model from Rolex Authorized Dealers, but waitlists are common. Reputable pre-owned marketplaces and dealers are also options for both vintage and modern models. Always ensure authentication when buying pre-owned.
- What is the movement in the modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II?
- The modern "Root Beer" GMT-Master II is powered by Rolex's Calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement with a Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring, and a 70-hour power reserve.
- What is the water resistance of the Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer"?
- The Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" has a water resistance of 100 meters (330 feet).
- How do I care for my Rolex "Root Beer" GMT-Master II?
- Regular cleaning with a soft cloth and mild soapy water, avoiding harsh chemicals, professional servicing every 5-10 years, and proper storage are essential for maintaining your watch.
