The Rolex Submariner. Even the name itself evokes images of deep-sea exploration, timeless style, and horological excellence. While the all-stainless steel Submariner remains the purist's choice and the solid gold versions exude overt luxury, there exists a captivating middle ground: the 2 Tone Submariner. This sophisticated blend of stainless steel and precious metal, often referred to by Rolex as "Rolesor," offers a unique aesthetic appeal, combining robustness with a touch of refined elegance. This article delves into the world of the 2 Tone Submariner, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it continues to be a sought-after timepiece for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.

What is a 2 Tone Submariner? Unveiling the 'Rolesor' Magic

In the realm of Rolex, "2 Tone" is synonymous with "Rolesor." This isn't just a catchy marketing term; it represents Rolex's meticulous process of combining two distinct metals in a single watch. Specifically, a 2 Tone Submariner features:

• Stainless Steel (Oystersteel): Forming the robust foundation of the watch – the case, bracelet links (typically the outer links), and often the clasp. Rolex uses 904L stainless steel, now known as Oystersteel, renowned for its exceptional corrosion resistance and polished luster.
• Precious Metal (Gold): Adding a touch of luxury and warmth. Historically, yellow gold was the primary choice, but Rolex has expanded to include Everose gold (their proprietary rose gold alloy) and, in some instances, white gold accents. The gold is typically found on the bezel, crown, and the center links of the bracelet.

The strategic placement of these metals is crucial to the 2 Tone Submariner's appeal. The stainless steel provides the durability and tool-watch DNA expected of a Submariner, while the gold elevates the design, making it versatile enough for both casual and more formal settings. This harmonious blend is what makes the 2 Tone Submariner more than just a watch; it's a statement.

A Historical Perspective: Tracing the Evolution of the 2 Tone Submariner

Rolex's history with combining metals dates back decades, and the 2 Tone aesthetic has been a part of the Submariner lineage for a significant period. While the exact introduction date can be debated depending on the specific model variation, the 2 Tone Submariner truly gained prominence in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

• Early Examples (Late 1960s - 1970s): Models like the reference 1680/3 (introduced around 1969) marked a significant step in the 2 Tone Submariner's journey. This model, often featuring a blue or black dial and bezel, established the classic yellow gold and stainless steel combination.
• The Era of Refinement (1980s - 2000s): The 16613 (introduced in the late 1980s) became a quintessential 2 Tone Submariner. This reference saw advancements in movement technology and dial variations, solidifying the 2 Tone as a mainstay in the Submariner collection. The use of sapphire crystal and improved water resistance further enhanced its practicality and luxury appeal.
• Modern Interpretations (2000s - Present): The 21st century has witnessed further evolution with models like the 116613 and now the current generation 126613. These iterations feature ceramic bezels (Cerachrom), improved movements with longer power reserves, and subtle refinements to the case and bracelet design. Rolex has also introduced Everose Rolesor options, adding a warmer, more contemporary touch to the 2 Tone Submariner family.

Throughout its history, the 2 Tone Submariner has remained a consistent and popular choice, demonstrating its enduring appeal beyond fleeting trends. It represents a balanced approach to luxury and functionality, resonating with a broad spectrum of watch enthusiasts.

Design and Features: Decoding the 2 Tone Submariner's Aesthetics

The design of the 2 Tone Submariner is a masterclass in subtle contrast and harmonious blending. Key design elements contribute to its distinctive look:

• The Bezel: The unidirectional rotatable bezel, a signature Submariner feature, is often crafted in gold (or gold capped) on 2 Tone models. Initially, aluminum inserts were used, evolving to Cerachrom (Rolex's proprietary ceramic) in modern versions. The gold numerals and graduations on the bezel provide a striking contrast against the ceramic or aluminum background (typically black or blue).
• The Dial: Dial options for 2 Tone Submariners have varied over time, but black and blue remain the most iconic. Gold indices and hands complement the gold accents on the bezel and bracelet, creating a cohesive aesthetic. Some vintage models featured "nipple" dials with applied gold markers, adding to their vintage charm.
• The Bracelet: The Oyster bracelet is the standard for the Submariner, and in 2 Tone versions, it's where the Rolesor magic truly shines. The center links are crafted from solid gold (or gold capped), while the outer links are Oystersteel. This creates a visually appealing contrast and distributes the precious metal elegantly across the wrist. Modern bracelets feature the Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension system for exceptional comfort and adjustability.
• The Movement: Inside, the 2 Tone Submariner houses Rolex's renowned in-house movements. Historically, movements like the caliber 3135 were workhorses, known for their reliability and precision. Current models utilize movements like the caliber 3235, offering enhanced performance, including a longer power reserve (approximately 70 hours) and improved resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
• Case Size and Proportions: The case size of the Submariner has evolved over the years. Vintage models were typically 40mm, while modern versions have seen a slight increase to 41mm (in the latest generation). The proportions remain meticulously balanced, ensuring wrist presence without being overly bulky.

These design elements, when combined, create a watch that is both sporty and sophisticated. The 2 Tone Submariner is instantly recognizable as a Rolex Submariner, yet the addition of gold elevates it beyond its purely utilitarian origins.

Why Choose a 2 Tone Submariner? The Appeal and Advantages

The 2 Tone Submariner holds a unique position in the watch world, offering a compelling set of advantages:

• Versatility: This is arguably the biggest draw. The 2 Tone Submariner bridges the gap between a sporty stainless steel watch and a dressier gold watch. It can be effortlessly styled with jeans and a t-shirt, a business suit, or even more formal attire. It's a true "go-anywhere, do-anything" timepiece.
• Value Proposition: While still a luxury watch, the 2 Tone Submariner often represents a more accessible entry point into precious metal Rolex ownership compared to solid gold models. It provides the prestige and visual appeal of gold without the significantly higher price tag of a full gold watch.
• Distinctive Style: The 2 Tone aesthetic is inherently eye-catching and adds a touch of personality to your wrist. It stands out from the crowd of all-steel sports watches, offering a subtle yet noticeable upgrade in style.
• Durability and Longevity: Built on the robust foundation of the Submariner, the 2 Tone version retains all the inherent durability and reliability. Oystersteel and Rolex's rigorous construction ensure it can withstand daily wear and tear, while the gold accents add a layer of enduring value.
• Investment Potential: Rolex watches, in general, are known for holding their value well, and certain 2 Tone Submariner references, particularly vintage and discontinued models, can appreciate in value over time. While not guaranteed, a well-maintained 2 Tone Submariner can be a sound investment.

Choosing a 2 Tone Submariner is a conscious decision to embrace versatility, style, and a touch of luxury within the iconic framework of the Submariner. It's a watch that speaks volumes without being ostentatious.

Potential Drawbacks to Consider

While the 2 Tone Submariner is widely admired, it's important to acknowledge potential drawbacks:

• Flashiness: The gold accents, while adding elegance, can also be perceived as slightly more attention-grabbing than an all-steel Submariner. For those who prefer a truly understated look, the 2 Tone might be slightly bolder than desired.
• Price Point: While more accessible than solid gold models, 2 Tone Submariners still command a premium price compared to their stainless steel counterparts. The cost of precious metals contributes significantly to the overall price.
• Maintenance: Gold, being a softer metal than stainless steel, can be more prone to scratches and scuffs over time. While Rolex gold alloys are durable, extra care might be needed to maintain the polished finish of the gold components.
• Perceived "Datedness" (Subjective): In certain fashion cycles, 2 Tone watches have been perceived as more "classic" or even slightly "dated" by some. However, the timeless design of the Submariner and the enduring appeal of gold generally keep the 2 Tone version relevant and stylish across decades.

Ultimately, these potential drawbacks are often outweighed by the numerous advantages and the inherent appeal of the 2 Tone Submariner. It's a matter of personal preference and aligning the watch's characteristics with your individual style and needs.

Styling Your 2 Tone Submariner: Mastering the Versatility

One of the joys of owning a 2 Tone Submariner is its styling versatility. Here are some tips on how to wear it effectively:

• Casual Chic: Pair it with jeans, chinos, or shorts, and a t-shirt or polo shirt. The gold adds a touch of sophistication to casual outfits without being overly formal. Leather sneakers or loafers complement this look well.
• Business Casual: The 2 Tone Submariner shines in business casual settings. It pairs effortlessly with dress pants, button-down shirts, and blazers. Brown leather shoes and a matching belt will tie the look together.
• Smart Casual: For smart casual occasions, consider pairing it with tailored trousers, a dress shirt, and a lightweight jacket or sweater. The gold elevates the outfit, making it suitable for dinner dates or social gatherings.
• Formal Events (With Caution): While incredibly versatile, for the most strictly formal black-tie events, a simpler dress watch might be more appropriate. However, for less rigid formal occasions, a well-maintained 2 Tone Submariner can certainly work, especially with darker suits.
• Metal Matching: Consider matching your other accessories to the gold accents of the watch. Gold cufflinks, belt buckles, or even rings can create a cohesive and polished look.

The key is to embrace the versatility of the 2 Tone Submariner and experiment with different styles to find what works best for you. It's a watch that can adapt to a wide range of situations, making it a valuable addition to any watch collection.

Investing in a 2 Tone Submariner: A Watch with Enduring Value

Rolex watches are often viewed as more than just timekeeping instruments; they are also considered potential investments. The 2 Tone Submariner is no exception. Factors that contribute to its investment potential include:

• Brand Recognition and Prestige: Rolex is arguably the most recognized luxury watch brand globally. This inherent brand value contributes to the resale market and long-term desirability of their watches.
• Limited Production and Demand: Rolex production is carefully controlled, and demand often outstrips supply, particularly for popular models like the Submariner. This scarcity can drive up prices in the pre-owned market.
• Material Value: The presence of gold in a 2 Tone Submariner adds intrinsic material value. Gold prices can fluctuate, but gold retains its value over time, providing a tangible asset within the watch.
• Condition and Completeness: Like any collectible, the condition of a 2 Tone Submariner significantly impacts its value. Watches in excellent condition, with original boxes and papers ("full set"), typically command higher prices.
• Specific References and Rarities: Certain vintage 2 Tone Submariner references or those with unique dial variations can become particularly sought after by collectors, driving up their value considerably.

While past performance is not indicative of future results, historically, well-maintained 2 Tone Submariners have demonstrated strong value retention and, in some cases, appreciation. However, it's crucial to approach watch collecting as a passion first and foremost, with investment potential as a secondary consideration.

Maintaining Your 2 Tone Submariner: Preserving its Beauty

To ensure your 2 Tone Submariner remains in excellent condition and retains its value, proper maintenance is essential:

• Regular Cleaning: Clean your watch regularly with a soft, damp cloth and mild soapy water. Pay attention to the bracelet and bezel, where dirt and grime can accumulate. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry with a soft cloth.
• Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends servicing your watch every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Professional servicing ensures the movement is properly lubricated and all components are functioning optimally.
• Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Expose your watch to harsh chemicals, solvents, or extreme temperatures. These can damage the gold, stainless steel, or seals.
• Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a watch box or pouch to protect it from dust, scratches, and extreme humidity.
• Polishing (With Caution): While polishing can remove minor scratches, excessive polishing can wear down the metal, particularly the gold. Polishing should be done sparingly and preferably by a professional.

By following these maintenance tips, you can ensure your 2 Tone Submariner remains a beautiful and reliable timepiece for generations to come.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the 2 Tone Submariner

The 2 Tone Submariner is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of balanced luxury, enduring style, and horological excellence. It seamlessly blends the robustness of stainless steel with the refined elegance of gold, creating a timepiece that is both versatile and visually captivating. From its historical roots to its modern iterations, the 2 Tone Submariner has consistently proven its appeal, resonating with watch enthusiasts seeking a watch that can seamlessly transition from the boardroom to the beach. Its enduring popularity and potential for value appreciation solidify its place as a true icon in the world of luxury watches. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a first-time Rolex buyer, the 2 Tone Submariner offers a compelling proposition – a watch that is both a statement of style and a testament to Rolex's unwavering commitment to quality and innovation.

FAQ: Common Questions About the 2 Tone Submariner

What is the difference between "Rolesor" and "2 Tone"?

In the context of Rolex watches, "Rolesor" is Rolex's specific term for their combination of two metals, typically stainless steel and gold (yellow, white, or Everose). "2 Tone" is a more general term used in the watch industry to describe watches made with two different colored metals. For Rolex Submariners, "2 Tone" and "Rolesor" are essentially interchangeable.

Is a 2 Tone Submariner a good investment?

Rolex watches, including 2 Tone Submariners, generally hold their value well and can appreciate over time, especially well-maintained vintage or discontinued models. However, watch investment is not guaranteed and depends on various factors like market conditions, model rarity, and condition. It's best to buy a watch you love and consider any potential appreciation as a bonus.

Is a 2 Tone Submariner suitable for everyday wear?

Yes, absolutely. The 2 Tone Submariner is designed for everyday wear. Its Oystersteel construction and robust movement make it durable and reliable. Its versatile style also allows it to be worn in various settings, from casual to business casual.

What are the common materials used in a 2 Tone Submariner?

The most common materials are Rolex's Oystersteel (904L stainless steel) and yellow gold. Modern versions also feature Everose gold (Rolex's rose gold alloy). The bezel inserts are typically ceramic (Cerachrom) or aluminum in older models.

How do I authenticate a 2 Tone Submariner?

Authenticating a Rolex requires careful examination of various details, including the serial number, model number, dial details, bracelet construction, movement (if possible), and overall finishing. It's best to purchase from authorized dealers or reputable pre-owned watch sellers. Consider having a watch authenticated by a Rolex service center or a trusted watch expert if you are unsure.

What is the price range of a 2 Tone Submariner?

New 2 Tone Submariners from Rolex retail for upwards of $15,000 USD (as of late 2023), depending on the specific model and metal combination. Pre-owned prices can vary based on condition, age, and reference, but often start around $10,000 USD and can go much higher for vintage or rare examples. It's best to check with authorized dealers or reputable pre-owned retailers for current pricing.

References and Sources:

1. Rolex Official Website: https://www.rolex.com
2. Hodinkee: https://www.hodinkee.com
3. WatchTime Magazine: https://www.watchtime.com
4. Chrono24: https://www.chrono24.com
5. Bob's Watches: https://www.bobswatches.com