For over half a century, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II has stood as a beacon of robust reliability and unwavering functionality, specifically designed for the intrepid explorer. More than just a luxury watch, the Explorer II is a tool, meticulously engineered to withstand the harshest environments while maintaining impeccable timekeeping. This article delves into the rich history, intricate design, and enduring appeal of the Explorer II, exploring why it remains a coveted timepiece for adventurers and discerning watch enthusiasts alike.
A Legacy Forged in Exploration: The Origins of the Explorer II
To truly understand the Explorer II, we must first appreciate its lineage within the Rolex "Professional" watch family. Born from the success of the original Explorer, a watch designed for and tested by mountaineers scaling Mount Everest, the Explorer II emerged in 1971 with the reference 1655. This wasn't merely an aesthetic upgrade; it was a purposeful evolution, catering to a specific niche of explorers: those venturing into environments where day and night are indistinguishable, such as polar regions or deep caves.
The Explorer Lineage: From Everest to Every Day
The original Rolex Explorer, launched in the wake of the successful Everest expedition in 1953, established the brand's commitment to creating watches for extreme conditions. Its focus was on legibility, robustness, and simplicity. The Explorer II inherited these core values but expanded upon them, adding features specifically tailored for environments lacking the natural day/night cycle. This marked Rolex's understanding of the diverse needs within the exploration community and their dedication to providing specialized tools for every challenge.
Birth of the Explorer II: The Reference 1655 and the "Freccione"
The first Explorer II, the reference 1655, was a bold departure from the original Explorer's design. It introduced the now-iconic fixed 24-hour bezel and an additional 24-hour hand, linked to the main hour hand but geared to complete one rotation every 24 hours instead of 12. This crucial feature allowed explorers in disorienting environments to easily distinguish between AM and PM, preventing confusion and ensuring accurate timekeeping for critical tasks. The 1655 also earned the nickname "Freccione" in Italian, meaning "big arrow," due to its distinctive large orange 24-hour hand.
While initially not as commercially successful as other Rolex models, the 1655 is now highly sought after by collectors for its rarity, unique design, and historical significance. It laid the foundation for the Explorer II's enduring legacy as a tool watch built for purpose.
Decoding the Design: Key Features of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
The Explorer II's design is a masterclass in functional aesthetics. Every element, from the case material to the dial markers, serves a purpose, contributing to its overall robustness, legibility, and reliability.
The Iconic 24-Hour Bezel and GMT Function
The fixed, graduated 24-hour bezel is arguably the most defining feature of the Explorer II. Typically crafted from stainless steel, it provides a constant reference point for the 24-hour hand. This, combined with the independently adjustable 12-hour hand, effectively transforms the Explorer II into a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) watch, capable of tracking a second time zone. This functionality is not only invaluable for explorers but also for frequent travelers and anyone needing to monitor time in different locations.
The bezel's numerals are deeply engraved and often filled with black paint for maximum contrast and legibility, even in low-light conditions. This robust construction ensures the bezel remains scratch-resistant and functional throughout years of use.
Robust Oyster Case and Bracelet: Built for Endurance
As an "Oyster Perpetual," the Explorer II boasts Rolex's legendary Oyster case, renowned for its water resistance and durability. Crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel (now often referred to as Oystersteel by Rolex), the case is meticulously engineered to protect the precision movement within. The screw-down case back and Twinlock or Triplock winding crown (depending on the model) further enhance water resistance, typically rated to 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for swimming and various water activities.
The Oyster bracelet, also in Oystersteel, complements the case's robustness. Featuring solid links and a secure Oysterlock clasp with an Easylink comfort extension link, the bracelet provides both strength and comfort on the wrist. The Easylink system allows for quick adjustments of approximately 5mm, crucial for adapting to changing wrist sizes in varying temperatures or when wearing the watch over layers of clothing.
High-Visibility Dial and Chromalight Display: Legibility in All Conditions
Legibility is paramount for a tool watch, and the Explorer II excels in this area. The dial is designed for maximum clarity, featuring large, highly legible hour markers and hands. Rolex's proprietary Chromalight luminescent material, emitting a long-lasting blue glow, is applied to the markers and hands, providing exceptional visibility in darkness or low-light environments. This superior luminescence is a significant upgrade over traditional lume and ensures time can be read at a glance, regardless of the ambient light.
Dial colors have historically been either black or polar white. The "polar" white dial, in particular, has become iconic, offering exceptional contrast against the black hands and markers, further enhancing legibility, especially in bright, reflective environments like snow-covered landscapes.
Precision and Performance: The Movement - Calibers 3187 and 3285
At the heart of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II lies a high-precision, self-winding mechanical movement. Historically, the Explorer II has utilized various movements, each representing advancements in Rolex's horological engineering. The reference 216570, introduced in 2011, featured the Caliber 3187, a robust and reliable movement specifically designed for the Explorer II. It incorporated features like a Parachrom hairspring for enhanced resistance to shocks and temperature variations, as well as Paraflex shock absorbers for further durability.
The current generation Explorer II, reference 226570, boasts the upgraded Caliber 3285. This movement represents a significant leap forward, offering improved efficiency, precision, and a longer power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The Caliber 3285 also incorporates the Chronergy escapement, further enhancing energy efficiency and long-term reliability. Both calibers are COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified, guaranteeing exceptional chronometric precision.
Evolution Through the Generations: Tracing Explorer II Models
The Explorer II has evolved subtly over its history, with each iteration refining the design and incorporating technological advancements while staying true to its core identity as a robust tool watch.
The Pioneering 1655 (Freccione): The Original Explorer II
As mentioned earlier, the reference 1655 was the groundbreaking original. Its distinctive design, including the orange "Freccione" 24-hour hand, straight hands, and steel bezel, set the stage for the Explorer II lineage. Despite its functional brilliance, its unique aesthetics were not universally embraced initially, contributing to its now-coveted status among collectors.
Refinement and Modernization: The 16550 and 16570
The reference 16550, introduced in the mid-1980s, marked a significant shift. It incorporated a more modern movement, the Caliber 3085, which allowed for independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand, making it a true GMT watch. Aesthetically, it adopted Mercedes hands and applied hour markers, bringing it closer in design language to other Rolex Professional models. The subsequent reference 16570, launched in 1989, continued this evolution, refining the design and utilizing the Caliber 3185, and later the Caliber 3186.
The 16570 is often considered a "sweet spot" for many enthusiasts, offering a classic 40mm case size, robust functionality, and a more accessible price point compared to vintage 1655s and modern models. It was available with both black and polar white dials and remained in production for over two decades, solidifying the Explorer II's place in Rolex's catalog.
The Maxi Case Era: The 216570 - A Bold Return
In 2011, Rolex unveiled the reference 216570, celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Explorer II. This model represented a significant size increase, jumping to a 42mm case diameter. It also reintroduced the larger, more prominent 24-hour hand reminiscent of the original "Freccione," albeit in orange on the polar dial and black on the black dial. The 216570 was powered by the Caliber 3187 and featured a "Maxi case" with broader lugs and crown guards, further emphasizing its robust and tool-watch nature. The increased size and bolder design resonated with contemporary tastes and revitalized the Explorer II's popularity.
The Current Generation: The 226570 - Refinement and Caliber 3285
The current Explorer II, reference 226570, launched in 2021, continues the 42mm case size but introduces subtle refinements. While visually very similar to the 216570, the 226570 features a slightly redesigned case with more refined lugs and bracelet integration. The most significant upgrade is the incorporation of the Caliber 3285 movement, offering superior performance and a longer power reserve. The 226570 represents the pinnacle of the Explorer II evolution, combining robust heritage with cutting-edge horological technology.
Why Choose an Oyster Perpetual Explorer II?
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is more than just a watch; it's a statement of purpose, resilience, and a connection to a legacy of exploration. Its appeal extends beyond functionality, encompassing timeless design, robust construction, and enduring value.
Functionality and Practicality: A Tool for Every Adventure
The core reason to choose an Explorer II is its unparalleled functionality. The GMT function, combined with the 24-hour bezel, provides practical utility for travelers, professionals working across time zones, and anyone who needs to track time in different contexts. The robust construction, water resistance, and exceptional legibility make it a reliable companion in various environments, from urban landscapes to outdoor adventures.
Durability and Reliability: Built to Last a Lifetime
Rolex watches are renowned for their durability and longevity, and the Explorer II is no exception. Built with high-quality materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and rigorous testing, the Explorer II is designed to withstand the rigors of daily wear and demanding environments. With proper care and servicing, an Explorer II can last for generations, becoming a cherished heirloom.
Timeless Design and Versatility: From Expedition to Everyday
Despite its tool-watch origins, the Explorer II possesses a timeless and versatile design that transcends trends. Its sporty yet understated aesthetics make it suitable for a wide range of occasions, from casual wear to more formal settings. Whether paired with outdoor gear or a suit, the Explorer II exudes a sense of understated confidence and adventurous spirit.
Investment Potential and Collectibility: A Sound Acquisition
Rolex watches, in general, have demonstrated strong investment potential over time. The Explorer II, particularly certain references and configurations, has also seen its value appreciate in the secondary market. While purchasing a watch solely as an investment is not always recommended, the Explorer II's enduring desirability and Rolex's brand prestige suggest it is a sound acquisition that can hold its value or even appreciate over time.
Who is the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II For?
The Explorer II appeals to a diverse range of individuals, united by a common appreciation for quality, functionality, and timeless design.
Adventurers and Travelers: The Original Intended Audience
For those who explore the world, whether physically or professionally, the Explorer II remains the quintessential tool watch. Its GMT function, robustness, and legibility are invaluable assets for adventurers, travelers, scientists, and anyone who ventures into challenging environments.
Watch Enthusiasts and Collectors: Appreciating Horological Excellence
Watch enthusiasts and collectors are drawn to the Explorer II for its horological significance, robust movement, and unique design within the Rolex catalog. Its evolution over the years, the different references, and the subtle nuances between models provide ample material for collecting and in-depth study.
Those Seeking a Robust and Versatile Daily Watch: A Reliable Companion
Beyond adventurers and collectors, the Explorer II is an excellent choice for anyone seeking a robust, reliable, and versatile daily watch. Its understated elegance, combined with its rugged capabilities, makes it a watch that can be worn and enjoyed in any situation, providing years of faithful service.
Caring for Your Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
To ensure your Oyster Perpetual Explorer II continues to perform flawlessly and retain its value, proper care and maintenance are essential.
Regular Servicing: Maintaining Peak Performance
Rolex recommends regular servicing of their watches, typically every 5-10 years, depending on usage and environmental conditions. Servicing should be performed by an authorized Rolex service center to ensure genuine parts and expert workmanship. Regular servicing includes cleaning, lubrication, timing adjustments, and replacement of worn parts, ensuring the movement remains in optimal condition.
Cleaning and Maintenance: Keeping it Looking its Best
Regular cleaning helps to maintain the appearance of your Explorer II. Use a soft cloth to wipe down the case and bracelet. For more thorough cleaning, you can use lukewarm soapy water and a soft brush, ensuring the crown is screwed down tightly. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry with a soft cloth. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
Storage: Protecting Your Investment
When not wearing your Explorer II, store it in a safe and dry place, preferably in its original box or a watch case. Avoid storing it in extreme temperatures or in direct sunlight. For extended storage, it's recommended to wind the watch occasionally to keep the movement lubricated.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
- Q: What is the Rolex Explorer II designed for?
- A: The Explorer II is designed for explorers and adventurers, particularly those venturing into environments where day and night are indistinguishable, such as caves or polar regions. Its 24-hour bezel and hand help distinguish between AM and PM.
- Q: What does the GMT function do on the Explorer II?
- A: The GMT function allows the Explorer II to track two time zones simultaneously. The 24-hour hand, in conjunction with the 24-hour bezel, indicates a second time zone, while the main hour and minute hands display local time.
- Q: What are the dial color options for the Explorer II?
- A: Historically, the Explorer II has been available with black and "polar" white dials. Both dial colors offer excellent legibility, with the polar white dial being particularly iconic.
- Q: What is the current reference number for the Rolex Explorer II?
- A: The current reference number for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is 226570.
- Q: Is the Rolex Explorer II a good investment?
- A: Rolex watches, including the Explorer II, generally hold their value well and can appreciate over time, particularly in good condition and with original accessories. While not guaranteed, it is often considered a relatively safe and potentially appreciating asset in the luxury watch market.
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is more than just a watch; it's a testament to Rolex's commitment to innovation, durability, and functionality. From its origins as a specialized tool for explorers to its current status as a coveted luxury timepiece, the Explorer II has consistently delivered on its promise of robust reliability and unwavering performance. Its timeless design, combined with its practical features and enduring legacy, ensures its continued appeal to adventurers, watch enthusiasts, and anyone seeking a watch that embodies both form and function. The Explorer II is a true icon, a watch ready to accompany you on any exploration, both big and small, for years to come.
