For decades, the Rolex Submariner has reigned supreme as the quintessential dive watch, a symbol of adventure, precision, and timeless design. While the all-stainless steel models embody rugged functionality, the two-tone Rolex Submariner elevates this iconic timepiece to a new level of sophisticated versatility. Marrying the robustness of stainless steel with the opulent gleam of gold, the two-tone Submariner, often referred to as the "Rolesor" Submariner by Rolex, presents a compelling proposition for those seeking a watch that seamlessly transitions from the depths of the ocean to the boardroom.

This comprehensive guide delves into the captivating world of the two-tone Rolex Submariner. We will explore its history, dissect its design elements, examine the various models available, discuss its investment potential, and provide actionable insights for those considering adding this remarkable timepiece to their collection. Whether you are a seasoned horology enthusiast or a newcomer to the world of luxury watches, this article will equip you with the knowledge to appreciate and understand the enduring allure of the two-tone Submariner.

A Legacy Forged in Steel and Gold: The History of the Two-Tone Submariner

The Rolex Submariner, first introduced in 1953, was initially conceived as a tool watch for professional divers. Its robust construction, water resistance, and legible dial quickly made it a favorite among adventurers and sportsmen. However, Rolex, always attuned to evolving tastes, recognized the potential to broaden the Submariner's appeal beyond purely utilitarian purposes.

While exact dates are debated among collectors, the introduction of two-tone variations of the Submariner likely occurred in the late 1960s or early 1970s. This marked a significant shift, transforming the Submariner from a strictly functional tool watch into a more versatile and luxurious accessory. The addition of gold, typically in the form of yellow gold, brought a touch of elegance and prestige without compromising the core DNA of the Submariner. This strategic move broadened the watch's appeal to a wider audience, including those who appreciated its sporty heritage but also desired a timepiece suitable for more formal occasions.

Rolex's use of "Rolesor," their proprietary term for combining gold and steel, further solidified the two-tone Submariner's position as a unique and desirable offering. Rolesor is not merely a cosmetic application; it represents Rolex's commitment to quality and durability, ensuring that the gold elements are as robust and long-lasting as the stainless steel components.

The Evolution of Two-Tone Submariner Models

Over the decades, the two-tone Submariner has evolved alongside its stainless steel counterparts, incorporating technological advancements and subtle design refinements. Key milestones in its evolution include:

  • Early Models (Reference 1680/3, 16613): These early two-tone Submariners, often featuring acrylic crystals and aluminum bezel inserts, established the classic aesthetic. The 16613, in particular, became a highly popular reference, solidifying the two-tone Submariner's place in Rolex's lineup.
  • Introduction of Sapphire Crystal and Ceramic Bezel (Reference 116613): The transition to sapphire crystals and ceramic "Cerachrom" bezels in the late 2000s significantly enhanced the scratch resistance and durability of the two-tone Submariner. The "Super Case" also provided a more substantial and modern wrist presence.
  • Next Generation Movement and Refinements (Reference 126613): The current generation of two-tone Submariners, powered by the caliber 3235 movement, boasts improved performance, accuracy, and power reserve. Subtle design tweaks, such as a slightly wider bracelet and refined case proportions, further enhance the watch's overall aesthetics and wearability.
  • Introduction of Everose Rolesor: Beyond yellow gold, Rolex expanded the two-tone Submariner offering to include Everose Rolesor, combining Oystersteel with Rolex's proprietary 18ct Everose gold, known for its exceptional resistance to fading and its warm, rosy hue. This introduced a more contemporary and less overtly ostentatious option.

Decoding the Design: Elements that Define the Two-Tone Submariner

The beauty of the two-tone Rolex Submariner lies in its harmonious blend of contrasting materials and carefully considered design elements. Here's a breakdown of what makes it so visually appealing and functionally superior:

The Rolesor Advantage: Stainless Steel and Gold

The core of the two-tone Submariner's identity is the "Rolesor" combination. Rolex typically employs 18ct yellow gold or Everose gold paired with their robust 904L Oystersteel (now often referred to as Oystersteel, a 904L equivalent). This marriage of materials offers a unique set of benefits:

  • Durability and Strength of Steel: Oystersteel provides exceptional corrosion resistance, strength, and resilience, ensuring the watch can withstand the rigors of daily wear and demanding environments.
  • Luxury and Warmth of Gold: Gold adds a touch of prestige, warmth, and visual interest. It elevates the Submariner beyond its purely utilitarian origins, making it suitable for more formal settings.
  • Contrast and Visual Appeal: The interplay between the cool sheen of steel and the rich luster of gold creates a striking visual contrast that is both eye-catching and sophisticated.

Iconic Submariner Features, Elevated in Two-Tone

The two-tone Submariner retains all the signature design elements that have made the Submariner an icon:

  • Oyster Case: The robust Oyster case, water-resistant to 300 meters (1000 feet), is a cornerstone of the Submariner's durability. In two-tone models, the case typically features a steel case body with gold crown and bezel.
  • Unidirectional Bezel: The unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute graduated insert is crucial for divers to track elapsed time underwater. In two-tone models, the bezel insert is often made of Cerachrom ceramic, with gold accents or numerals.
  • Oyster Bracelet: The iconic Oyster bracelet, known for its comfort and robustness, is often rendered in Rolesor in two-tone Submariners. The center links are typically crafted from gold, while the outer links are steel, creating a seamless and integrated look.
  • Mercedes Hands and Luminous Markers: The distinctive Mercedes hour hand and generously applied luminous markers on the dial ensure excellent legibility in all lighting conditions, a hallmark of the Submariner's tool watch heritage.
  • Cyclops Lens (on Date models): The Cyclops lens at 3 o'clock, magnifying the date display, is a signature Rolex feature and is present on the two-tone Submariner Date models.

Exploring the Two-Tone Submariner Range: Models and Variations

Rolex offers the two-tone Submariner in various configurations, providing options to suit different tastes and preferences. Key variations include:

  • Yellow Gold Rolesor: The classic and most recognizable two-tone Submariner, combining Oystersteel with 18ct yellow gold. Often available with black, blue, or champagne dials and bezel inserts.
  • Everose Gold Rolesor: A more contemporary and subtle option, featuring Oystersteel and 18ct Everose gold. Typically paired with black or blue dials and bezel inserts.
  • Dial and Bezel Colors: Two-tone Submariners are available with a range of dial colors, including black, blue, and champagne (gold). Bezel inserts typically match the dial color or offer a contrasting hue, like the iconic blue bezel with a blue dial ("LB" models).
  • Submariner Date vs. No-Date: While the majority of two-tone Submariners feature the date function with the Cyclops lens, historically, no-date two-tone Submariners were also produced in earlier references, though they are less common today. The current production two-tone Submariner is exclusively available with the date function.

Popular current production models include the Rolex Submariner Date 126613LN (black dial and bezel) and the Rolex Submariner Date 126613LB (blue dial and bezel). These models represent the pinnacle of Rolex's two-tone Submariner craftsmanship, incorporating the latest technological advancements and design refinements.

Investing in a Legacy: The Two-Tone Submariner as an Investment

Rolex watches, in general, are known for their strong value retention and appreciation in the pre-owned market. The two-tone Submariner is no exception and can be considered a solid investment, albeit with nuances compared to its all-stainless steel counterparts.

Factors that influence the investment potential of a two-tone Submariner:

  • Model and Reference: Certain references, particularly discontinued or historically significant models, can command higher premiums in the secondary market.
  • Condition: The condition of the watch is paramount. Pristine, unworn, or "like new" examples with original boxes and papers will generally fetch higher prices.
  • Demand and Rarity: Market demand for specific two-tone Submariner models can fluctuate. Limited production runs or particularly desirable configurations can increase rarity and drive up prices.
  • Gold Content: The presence of gold contributes to the intrinsic value of the watch. Fluctuations in gold prices can indirectly influence the value of two-tone models.

While all-stainless steel Submariners often experience faster appreciation in highly speculative markets, the two-tone Submariner offers a more stable and consistent appreciation over the long term. Its inherent luxury and broader appeal can make it a more accessible entry point into Rolex investment for some collectors.

Disclaimer: Watch investment involves risks, and past performance is not indicative of future results. It is crucial to conduct thorough research and seek expert advice before making any investment decisions.

Wearing the Two-Tone Submariner: Style and Versatility

The two-tone Rolex Submariner excels in its versatility, bridging the gap between sporty and elegant. It can be effortlessly styled for a wide range of occasions:

  • Casual Everyday Wear: The Submariner's inherent robustness makes it perfectly suited for daily wear. The two-tone variation adds a touch of sophistication to jeans and a t-shirt or smart casual attire.
  • Business and Professional Settings: The gold elements elevate the watch's formality, making it appropriate for business meetings, office environments, and professional events. It pairs well with suits or smart business casual outfits.
  • Social Occasions and Evenings: The two-tone Submariner can transition seamlessly to evening events and social gatherings. It adds a touch of luxury and personality without being overly ostentatious.
  • Active Lifestyle: Despite its luxurious elements, the Submariner remains a capable tool watch. It can withstand swimming, watersports, and other active pursuits, making it a versatile companion for an active lifestyle.

The key to styling a two-tone Submariner is balance. Allow the watch to be a statement piece without overpowering your overall look. Consider matching metal accents in your accessories, such as belt buckles or cufflinks, to complement the gold elements of the watch.

Buying Your Two-Tone Rolex Submariner: A Practical Guide

Acquiring a two-tone Rolex Submariner requires careful consideration and planning. Here's a practical guide to navigate the buying process:

Authorized Dealers (ADs) vs. Grey Market

Purchasing from an Authorized Rolex Dealer (AD) is generally recommended for a new watch. ADs offer the full Rolex warranty, authenticity guarantee, and a trusted buying experience. However, due to high demand, obtaining a two-tone Submariner from an AD can involve waitlists and limited availability.

The grey market (reputable pre-owned watch dealers) offers an alternative for those seeking immediate availability or potentially discontinued models. However, due diligence is crucial when buying from the grey market. Ensure the dealer is reputable, offers authentication services, and provides a warranty. Prices in the grey market may be higher than MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price) due to demand.

Authentication and Due Diligence

Regardless of where you purchase, thorough authentication is essential. Examine the watch carefully for hallmarks of genuine Rolex craftsmanship: precise finishing, consistent dial printing, smooth bezel action, and the correct movement. Request original boxes and papers, and consider having the watch authenticated by a trusted watch expert if buying pre-owned.

Budget and Price Considerations

Two-tone Rolex Submariners command a premium over their all-stainless steel counterparts due to the gold content. Research current market prices for the specific model you are interested in. Factor in potential sales tax and insurance costs. Set a realistic budget and be prepared for potential wait times if purchasing from an AD.

Pros and Cons of Owning a Two-Tone Submariner

To help you make an informed decision, here's a summary of the pros and cons of owning a two-tone Rolex Submariner:

Pros:

  • Versatile Style: Bridges the gap between sporty and elegant, suitable for various occasions.
  • Luxurious Appeal: Gold adds a touch of prestige and visual interest.
  • Durable and Robust: Retains the Submariner's legendary durability.
  • Investment Potential: Holds value and appreciates over time.
  • Iconic Design: Own a piece of horological history.

Cons:

  • Higher Price Point: More expensive than all-stainless steel models.
  • Gold Can Be Scratched: Gold is softer than steel and more prone to scratches. Requires careful wear and maintenance.
  • Potentially More Flashy: The gold elements may be perceived as more attention-grabbing than all-steel models, which might not suit all preferences.
  • Maintenance Costs: Servicing and polishing costs may be slightly higher due to the gold components.

FAQ: Common Questions About the Two-Tone Rolex Submariner

What is "Rolesor"?

Rolesor is Rolex's term for combining two metals in a watch case and bracelet, typically gold and steel. It is not just a plating; Rolesor uses solid gold elements seamlessly integrated with stainless steel components.

Is the two-tone Submariner less durable than the all-steel version?

No. The two-tone Submariner is equally as durable as the all-steel version in terms of water resistance, shock resistance, and overall robustness. The gold elements are solid and integrated to withstand daily wear. However, gold is softer than steel and may show scratches more readily.

What is the difference between yellow gold and Everose gold Rolesor?

Yellow gold Rolesor uses 18ct yellow gold, providing a classic and traditional gold hue. Everose gold Rolesor uses Rolex's proprietary 18ct Everose gold, which has a warmer, rosy hue and is known for its exceptional resistance to fading.

Is the two-tone Submariner a good investment?

Yes, the two-tone Submariner can be a good investment, holding value and potentially appreciating over time. However, investment performance can vary depending on the specific model, condition, and market conditions. Research and due diligence are essential.

Where can I buy a two-tone Rolex Submariner?

You can purchase a new two-tone Submariner from Authorized Rolex Dealers (ADs), though availability may be limited. Alternatively, you can explore reputable grey market dealers for pre-owned or potentially new watches. Always prioritize authentication and buy from trusted sources.

How do I care for a two-tone Submariner?

Regular cleaning with a soft cloth and mild soapy water is recommended. Avoid exposing the watch to harsh chemicals or extreme temperatures. Periodic servicing by Rolex or an authorized service center is crucial to maintain its performance and longevity. Be mindful that gold can scratch more easily than steel.

Conclusion: Embracing the Best of Both Worlds with the Two-Tone Submariner

The two-tone Rolex Submariner stands as a testament to Rolex's ability to blend iconic design with evolving tastes and materials. It is a watch that embodies both rugged capability and refined elegance, appealing to those who appreciate the Submariner's legendary heritage but desire a touch of luxury and versatility. Whether you are drawn to the classic allure of yellow gold or the contemporary sophistication of Everose gold, the two-tone Submariner offers a compelling proposition for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.

More than just a timepiece, the two-tone Submariner is a statement of discerning taste, a symbol of success, and a legacy on the wrist. It is a watch that transcends trends, offering enduring style and value for generations to come. By understanding its history, design, and nuances, you can fully appreciate the enduring allure of the two-tone Rolex Submariner and make an informed decision about adding this iconic timepiece to your own collection.

References and Sources

The copyright of this article belongs toomega clone watchAll, if you forward it, please indicate it!