The Rolex Submariner. Just the name evokes images of deep-sea exploration, timeless style, and horological excellence. While the all-stainless steel Submariner is arguably the most iconic configuration, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone, often referred to as the "Rolesor" model by Rolex, offers a compelling alternative. It blends the robustness and functionality of stainless steel with the opulent warmth of gold, creating a timepiece that is both sporty and sophisticated. This article delves into the captivating world of the two-tone Submariner, exploring its history, design, appeal, and why it continues to be a sought-after watch for discerning collectors and enthusiasts alike.
What is a Two-Tone Rolex Submariner?
In the realm of Rolex, "Two-Tone" or "Rolesor" signifies the harmonious marriage of two precious metals – typically stainless steel and gold. For the Submariner Two-Tone, Rolex meticulously combines its proprietary Oystersteel, renowned for its corrosion resistance and durability, with either 18k yellow gold or 18k Everose gold (Rolex's patented rose gold alloy). This combination is not merely aesthetic; it represents a strategic approach to watchmaking, leveraging the strengths of each material to create a timepiece that is both visually stunning and incredibly resilient.
The gold elements in a Two-Tone Submariner are typically found on the center links of the Oyster bracelet, the bezel (or bezel insert), the crown, and sometimes the hands and hour markers. The case and outer bracelet links remain in Oystersteel, providing a robust foundation and a pleasing contrast to the gold accents.
A History of Rolesor Submariners: Blending Steel and Gold
Rolex's use of Rolesor dates back to the 1930s, demonstrating their early understanding of the aesthetic and material advantages of combining steel and gold. While the all-stainless steel Submariner gained prominence as the quintessential tool watch, the two-tone version emerged as a luxurious yet equally capable sibling. The introduction of two-tone Submariners broadened the watch's appeal, attracting those who desired a touch of elegance without sacrificing the Submariner's inherent ruggedness.
Throughout the Submariner's evolution, Rolex has consistently offered two-tone variants alongside the steel models. From early references like the 1680/3 to more modern iterations such as the 116613 and the current generation 126613, the Rolesor Submariner has maintained its place as a cornerstone of the collection. Each generation has brought refinements in materials, movements, and design, but the core concept of blending steel and gold for a luxurious and durable dive watch has remained constant.
The Allure of Two-Tone: Why Choose Rolesor?
The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone holds a unique appeal that sets it apart from its all-steel counterpart. Here's why it resonates with so many:
- Versatility: The two-tone aesthetic strikes a perfect balance between sportiness and dressiness. It's equally at home under a wetsuit as it is under a shirt cuff. This versatility makes it an ideal "one-watch collection" for many individuals.
- Luxury and Status: The presence of gold instantly elevates the watch, conveying a sense of luxury and prestige. It subtly signals success and discerning taste without being overly ostentatious like a full gold watch might be.
- Warmth and Contrast: The gold accents bring a warmth and richness to the typically monochromatic steel watch. The contrast between the cool steel and the warm gold creates a visually dynamic and appealing timepiece.
- Investment Potential: Like many Rolex watches, especially Submariners, two-tone models often hold their value well and can even appreciate over time. While not solely an investment piece, owning a Rolesor Submariner is often seen as a sound financial decision.
- A Touch of Individuality: In a sea of stainless steel sports watches, the two-tone Submariner stands out. It's a statement piece that reflects a confident and individual style.
- Historical Significance: The Rolesor Submariner is not a recent invention; it has a long and rich history within the Rolex lineage, adding to its collectibility and desirability.
Key Features and Design Elements of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone
The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone shares the fundamental DNA of the iconic Submariner, inheriting its robust construction, exceptional functionality, and timeless design. Key features include:
Materials: Oystersteel and 18k Gold
Rolex's commitment to quality materials is paramount. The Submariner Two-Tone utilizes:
- Oystersteel: This is not just any stainless steel. Rolex employs 904L stainless steel (often referred to as Oystersteel), a superalloy known for its exceptional resistance to corrosion, even in harsh marine environments. It also polishes to a brilliant sheen.
- 18k Gold: Rolex uses only 18k gold, meaning it's composed of 75% pure gold, alloyed with other metals for enhanced durability and color. You'll find Two-Tone Submariners in both 18k yellow gold and 18k Everose gold, each offering a distinct aesthetic.
The Iconic Submariner Design
The Two-Tone Submariner retains all the core design elements that have made the Submariner a legend:
- Oyster Case: Waterproof to 300 meters (1000 feet), the Oyster case is a marvel of engineering, providing robust protection for the movement.
- Unidirectional Rotatable Bezel: Equipped with a Cerachrom ceramic insert (virtually scratchproof and fade-proof), the bezel is crucial for timing dives and other events. The gold versions often feature gold-filled numerals and graduations.
- Mercedes Hands and Luminous Markers: Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence ensures readability in low-light conditions.
- Oyster Bracelet: The iconic three-link Oyster bracelet provides comfort and security. On two-tone models, the center links are crafted from solid 18k gold, adding weight and luxury.
- Cyclops Lens: Magnifying the date display at 3 o'clock for enhanced readability, a signature Rolex feature.
Movement and Performance
Inside the modern Rolex Submariner Two-Tone ticks a high-performance, self-winding mechanical movement – typically the Caliber 3235. This movement is entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex and boasts:
- Chronometer Certification: Officially certified as a Superlative Chronometer by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) and Rolex's own stringent in-house testing, guaranteeing exceptional precision and reliability.
- Parachrom Hairspring: Made of a paramagnetic alloy, it offers greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations.
- Chronergy Escapement: Patented by Rolex, this escapement optimizes energy efficiency, contributing to the movement's power reserve and longevity.
- Approximately 70-hour Power Reserve: Allows the watch to run for nearly three days without winding, even if not worn.
Exploring Different Two-Tone Submariner Models
Within the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone family, there are variations to consider, primarily based on the gold type and dial color:
Yellow Gold Two-Tone Submariner
The classic and most recognizable two-tone Submariner often features yellow gold. This combination offers a traditional and timeless look, evoking the golden era of luxury watches. Popular dial colors for yellow gold two-tone models include:
- Black Dial: A versatile and classic choice, providing maximum contrast and legibility. (e.g., Ref. 126613LN - "Lunette Noir" - Black Bezel)
- Blue Dial: Often paired with a blue bezel insert, the blue dial offers a nautical and slightly more vibrant aesthetic. (e.g., Ref. 126613LB - "Lunette Bleu" - Blue Bezel)
- Champagne Dial: A less common but elegant option, providing a softer and more refined look.
Everose Gold Two-Tone Submariner
Rolex's proprietary Everose gold, a rose gold alloy that resists fading, offers a more modern and subtle take on the two-tone aesthetic. Everose gold provides a warmer and less overtly flashy appearance compared to yellow gold. Common dial colors for Everose gold two-tone models include:
- Black Dial: Provides a striking contrast with the Everose gold, highlighting its unique hue.
- Chocolate Dial: A luxurious and warm dial color that complements Everose gold beautifully.
It's important to note that model references and available dial/bezel combinations can change over time as Rolex updates its collections. Always refer to the official Rolex website or authorized dealers for the most current information.
Wearing the Two-Tone Submariner: Style and Versatility
One of the greatest strengths of the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is its incredible versatility. It can be dressed up or down with ease:
- Business Casual: The two-tone Submariner pairs exceptionally well with business casual attire like chinos, dress shirts, and blazers. It adds a touch of sophistication without being overly formal.
- Smart Casual: Jeans, polos, and casual jackets are perfectly complemented by the Rolesor Submariner. It elevates the overall look while maintaining a relaxed vibe.
- Formal Occasions (with caveats): While not a traditional dress watch, a two-tone Submariner can be worn with a suit, especially for less strictly formal events. However, for black-tie affairs, a simpler, more classic dress watch might be more appropriate.
- Sporty Activities: True to its tool watch heritage, the Submariner Two-Tone is perfectly capable of handling swimming, diving (within recreational limits), and other outdoor activities.
The key is to embrace the watch's inherent duality – it's both a robust sports watch and a luxurious statement piece. Its versatility allows it to seamlessly transition between different roles and occasions.
Investing in a Two-Tone Submariner
Rolex watches, particularly Submariners, are often considered strong investments. The Two-Tone Submariner is no exception. Factors that contribute to its investment potential include:
- Brand Recognition and Prestige: Rolex is globally recognized as a symbol of luxury and quality.
- Limited Production: Rolex production is controlled, and demand often outstrips supply, especially for popular models.
- Durable Materials and Construction: Rolex watches are built to last, contributing to their long-term value.
- Historical Significance: The Submariner is an iconic watch model with a rich history, making it highly collectible.
While past performance is not indicative of future results, historically, well-maintained Rolex Submariner Two-Tone watches have tended to retain or increase in value over time. However, it's crucial to purchase from authorized dealers or reputable sources to ensure authenticity and to keep all original box and papers for optimal resale value.
Maintaining Your Two-Tone Rolex Submariner
To ensure your Rolex Submariner Two-Tone remains in excellent condition and retains its value, proper maintenance is essential:
- Regular Cleaning: Gently clean your watch with a soft cloth and lukewarm soapy water. Avoid harsh chemicals.
- Professional Servicing: Rolex recommends a full service approximately every 5-10 years, depending on usage. This should be performed by an authorized Rolex service center.
- Avoid Extreme Conditions: While robust, avoid subjecting your watch to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, or harsh impacts unnecessarily.
- Proper Storage: When not wearing your watch, store it in a safe place, preferably in its original box or a watch winder (if desired).
Proper care will not only keep your watch looking its best but also help maintain its mechanical integrity and long-term value.
Pros and Cons of Owning a Two-Tone Submariner
As with any luxury item, there are pros and cons to consider when deciding on a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone:
Pros:
- Versatile Style: Bridges the gap between sporty and dressy.
- Luxurious Aesthetic: Gold accents elevate the watch's appearance.
- Robust and Durable: Built to Rolex's exacting standards.
- Potential Investment: Often holds value well.
- Iconic Design: Part of the legendary Submariner lineage.
Cons:
- Price: Two-tone models are more expensive than their stainless steel counterparts.
- May be perceived as "flashier" than all-steel by some.
- Gold can scratch more easily than stainless steel, requiring careful wear.
- Maintenance costs can be higher for luxury watches.
FAQ: Common Questions About the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone
Is the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone a good investment?
Historically, Rolex Submariner Two-Tone models have tended to hold their value well and can even appreciate over time. However, watch investments are not guaranteed, and market conditions can fluctuate. Purchase from authorized dealers, keep original box and papers, and maintain the watch properly to maximize potential value retention.
What is the price of a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?
Retail prices vary depending on the specific model (yellow gold or Everose gold, dial color, etc.) and can change over time. As of late 2023, retail prices for new Rolex Submariner Two-Tone models typically start in the range of $15,000 - $18,000 USD and up. Secondary market prices can vary based on demand, condition, and model rarity. Consult authorized Rolex dealers or reputable watch retailers for current pricing.
Is the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone waterproof?
Yes, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is waterproof to 300 meters (1000 feet), as indicated on the dial. It is a fully functional dive watch suitable for recreational scuba diving and other water activities.
What is the difference between "Rolesor" and "Two-Tone"?
"Rolesor" is Rolex's proprietary term for watches that combine gold and steel. "Two-Tone" is a more general term used in the watch industry to describe watches made with two different metals. In the context of Rolex, "Rolesor" and "Two-Tone" are often used interchangeably.
How do I authenticate a Rolex Submariner Two-Tone?
To ensure authenticity, purchase from authorized Rolex dealers. If buying pre-owned, purchase from reputable watch dealers with strong reviews and authentication processes. Look for hallmarks of authenticity such as correct Rolex engravings, serial numbers, movement details, and overall build quality. Consider having the watch authenticated by a professional watch expert if you have any doubts.
Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of Rolesor
The Rolex Submariner Two-Tone is more than just a luxury watch; it's a statement of refined taste, a testament to Rolex's masterful craftsmanship, and a versatile companion for life's adventures. By seamlessly blending the robustness of Oystersteel with the opulent allure of gold, Rolex has created a timepiece that is both timeless and contemporary. Whether you are a seasoned collector, a diving enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates exceptional horology, the Rolex Submariner Two-Tone offers a compelling proposition – enduring style, unwavering performance, and a touch of Rolesor magic that continues to captivate generations.
